cranbiz

I have a large channel lock plier that I use for doing fittings like that.

Digikey or Mouser are my 2 go to places for electronic components and connectors.

Pictures of the spa pack, wiring diagram found on the inside cover and pictures of the equipment area, please! The manual is not of any use as it's simply how to wire it to the house supply. We need to see the circuit board and how the jumpers and dip switches are set as well as the actual wiring connected to it. As the main board has been replaced, it could be as simple as a jumper or switch setting being incorrect.

Probably the relay on the circuit board. They can be changed out. If you don't feel comfortable soldering, then find an electronics repair guy to swap them out. I would do all of them, they are about $10 each from Amazon. To check, lift the tabs on the heater and check the voltage when the tub is calling for heat. If it's not 220V, relay is bad.

Amp draw, voltage, one or 2 speed and HP is what I would look at. Part numbers change based on many things, sometimes it's a change in a supplier or a revision in the drawing. The mode number is what's important.

Please start your own thread. In it please fully describe your problem as well as you can and post up pictures of your spa pack, the wiring diagram on the inside cover and pictures of your equipment area. This will greatly assist our resident experts and save their valuable time.

Huh???? What's a sewer scheme got to do with a hot tub? Did you even read the 9 month old thread? The OP found the problem and repaired it. More importantly, he reported back here to that affect.

Is yours built into a pool? Could be the pump or it could be the way you set up the replacement spa pack. Can you post up pictures of your spa pack showing the dip switches, the wiring diagram and of your equipment area. May be the centrifugal switch in the pump too.

Pull the filters and retry. If you still get a flow error, test the flow switch. You need a multimeter. When the tub is off, you should get an infinite ohms reading (no reading), with water flowing, you should get a 0 ohm reading. You should disconnect the switch from the board to test it. With most tubs, you can jump the switch terminals to replicate a working switch for test purposes.

Happy Birthday my friend. Hope you had a good day.

Could be a lot of things. It could be the pump seal. Won't matter if the pump is off or on. You do really need to know where it's leaking from and if that means drain, move and refill, that's what you got to do. You could try a stop leak product but those are only temporary and they also can do more harm than good.

Sounds like a bad relay or something related to it on the main board. Post up pictures of the board, the wiring diagram usually found on the inside cover and of the equipment area.

PLEASE start a new thread instead of bumping a several year old thread that is not related to YOUR spa. In that thread, include the info you provided here AND include pictures of the spa pack, the wiring diagram on the inside cover and of your equipment area.

Sounds like the heater might be bad, of course it could be a bad relay. However, we don't have enough information. Please start your own thread. Post up pictures of the inside of your control box, the wiring diagram on the inside of the cover, the equipment area and a somewhat better explanation of exactly what happens. Do you have a multimeter and do you know how to use one? What's the RCD? Is it some internal protection or is it the GFCI circuit breaker>

Post up the wiring diagram that should be on the inside of the cover. For some reason, I don't think it's wired right, but I'm not sure. Unplug the heater and the pumps, see if it still trips the breakers. If not, then start plugging things back in one at a time until you find out which one is tripping the breakers. The fact that it's tripping both to me indicated a possible wiring problem as for a Watkins tub, the 30A breaker is for the heater and the 20A is for everything else.

Manuals are more general users manuals than anything else. finding the manual usually won't help you fix the tub. Post up a description of your issues and pictures of the spa pack internals, the wiring diagram usually found on the inside cover and of the equipment in the tub and we should be able to help you.

Yes, it will work.

Calling the resident guru @CanadianSpaTech

Can't answer your question but on the ozonator, if you have not replaced it, it's not doing anything. They have a finite life, usually 3 years so while it might make bubbles, you are not treating the water.

What @castletoniasaid. I also prefer Bullfrog to Master Spa for a manufacturer. However, dealer support is as important as picking the right spa. What are the reviews on the Master Spa dealer like? Do they support the dealers claim that they take care of their customers? The shell of the Master is heavier than the Bullfrog and that is usually a plus. Bullfrog has interchangeable Jet Packs, which many Bullfrog owners love. Pick the tub that fit you best, including comfortable seating, features you want and has the best after purchase support.

Drain valves leak. Some additional details or a picture or 2 so we can see what yours is doing would be a welcome sight.

Sure looks like a M-Class Gecko pack.

Please start a new thread. This one is 11 years old. Post up a picture of what you are looking for and also the spa pack for us to assist you,

That's what I gave the OP, an A.O. Smith motor that really came very close to the specs on the original pump motor.

Please start a new thread, post up pictures of your spa pack, the wiring diagram and pictures of the equipment area. Also, ant error codes or lights that you have.