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cranbiz

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cranbiz last won the day on October 25 2021

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Hot Tub Aficionado

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  1. Yes, that's the transformer mentioned. It's actually the low voltage power supply. It is a common point of failure in the Watkins boards.
  2. You can usually source the relays from Amazon. Replacing them is relatively easy if you know how to solder. If you don't, find an electronics repair guy. Probably cost about $25 for the relays and $100 or so in labor to have them replaced.
  3. So what was just said its to replace the IQ2020 pack and topside with a Balboa VS501 because the Balboa complete setup is under $500 USD ($470) while an updated IQ2020 is $700 and another $400 for the topside.
  4. If your Prozone is more than a year old or so, it probably isn't working anymore. It may look like it's working but chances are it's not doing anything except making bubbles. It should be 110V in any case. it may not be a direct plug in but can be made to work. The installation guide for the VS501 says the pack comes with a 3 wire ozone cable so all you should have to do is splice that cable to your Prozone.
  5. Here is a complete VS501 pack with topside. https://www.spaguts.com/balboa-vs501z-spa-controller-kit-w-topside-5-5kw-htr-54220-z-237?gclid=Cj0KCQiA_8OPBhDtARIsAKQu0gb5QgLACT1LdHAJ91b85SYJK00EFS7R9C4PSBuJX8RZrQlXI9uZr7YaAsxtEALw_wcB
  6. Like @RDspaguysaid, probably a bad GFCI. You can buy a replacement cord with the GFCI at most big box home improvement stores. Or install a GFCI outlet and straight wire the tub with a SJO cord.
  7. Maybe, maybe not. It just depends on how long you ran it dry and how lucky or unlucky you are.
  8. My tub sits in an enclosed sunroom. The enclosure is mostly double glass sliding doors. I have a bathroom fan mounted in the ceiling that runs all the time. The only time I get any condensation is after a soak on a cold night. I do have a 1500W heater in the room but it doesn't run overnight and if it's really cold (sub 32 degrees F), it doesn't have a prayer of keeping the entire room much above 40 degrees F.
  9. It will affect the jet performance, which you already knew. The only thing that I might be worried about would be enough flow for the flow switch. I don't think it's enough difference to have issues but it's something to watch.
  10. Post up pictures of the board. A bad capacitor is usually pretty obvious to those of us who know electronics.
  11. Actually, the issue is that they can't get those parts from their vendor. South Seas Spa's had to switch to gecko controls to keep manufacturing. Your tub should have Balboa controls in it. Not trying to make excuses for them, communications with you should have been upfront and constant. Post up pictures of your control panel, spa pack and wiring and maybe one of us can find you something that can get you by until South Seas can come up with a solution. Please start a new thread with that info. This one is 10 years old.
  12. OK, @imlostappears to be right for the breaker. It's not laid out like any that I'm familiar with. I'm going to bow out here as I don't want to muddy the waters any further. However, you do need to use figure 1.3 for your breaker wiring.
  13. H1 and H2 are the heater output terminals. You should have your 30A white wire as connected to terminal 1 on the board and the other end as currently connected to the 30A breaker and the black wire connected to terminal 3 but the breaker needs the black wire moved to the outside, currently empty terminal on the breaker. The 20A breaker should have a black on terminal 2, red on terminal 4 and neutral on terminal 5. There should not be a jumper between 4 and 5. The breaker end is correct. All this is assuming that your GFCI breakers are wired like all other GFCI breakers I have dealt with. This wiring diagram isn't correct. You have fig. 1.2 here, you need to use fig 1.3
  14. I agree, that breaker isn't wired right. Move the black wire to the open terminal. For reasons I don't quite understand, there is no neutral going to the heater terminals so the 30A GFCI doesn't have a connection to the load side of the neutral. The 2 outside terminals are L1 and L2. You are using the black and white wires on the 30A breaker for your line voltage.
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