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cranbiz

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cranbiz last won the day on November 16

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  1. What errors are you getting on the topside controls if any. Describe exactly what it is and isn't doing as I can't figure out what happening. Are the pumps not starting? Do the pumps start then stop? Have you tried running it with the filters out of it? Please post pictures of the inside of the spa control box, the wiring diagram found on the inside of the cover and of the pump area.
  2. Amazon usually has replacement relays. Peel the white label off of the relays to get the model number
  3. Please do start a new post. In that post take pictures of the inside of the spa controller, the equipment area and the wiring diagram usually found on the inside cover. Do you have a multimeter?
  4. Well, according to the wiring diagrams provided, the OP does not have to wire in 2 GFCI breakers to run the panels. He can do it with 1 100A circuit and a 100A GFCI. He can also opt not to run the slave heater and run just a 50A circuit. Of course, the swim spa will heat much more slowly than if they use both heaters. I believe that 2 50A feeds will provide some redundancy as a failure in the slave panel probably won't take the entire system down. While it will cost more to run 2 50A circuits, it won't be much more than running 1 100A circuit.
  5. Shouldn't be using Trichlor in a hot tub.
  6. We ask that you start a new thread and post up pictures of the spa pack, topside with the error, the wiring diagram at minimum and of the equipment area for leaks, motor issues, etc. This way, our experts don't have to dig thru the thread to see what steps they provided which was based on the posters issue. In your case, because I read thru the thread, your issue appears to be the low voltage power supply has failed, which is usually the cause of this issue. An electronics repair tech should be able to fix it but you will need to remove the board from the pack. Other than that, it's a replacement pack that will be required.
  7. Looks like NA grid and it appears to be missing the neutral. The circuit being wired for 60A only matters if the tub pulls more than 50A. It sounds like the heater can be set for a higher wattage if you have 60A available. The tub not turning on is the issue, it's possible the conversion to 60A is the cause, but if the neutral is missing, I suspect that's the issue. Where is the GFCI breaker? Main panel or disconnect? As requested, we need to see the wiring diagram.
  8. I typed this prior to RDSpaGuy and somehow didn't hit send. Sounds like a bad relay. Relays can be replaced by someone with soldering experience. No need to replace the board if it's just a relay. If you are not comfortable doing this, a shop that does electronic repairs can do it for way less than replacing the board. The relays run 8-10 each on Amazon, refresh all of them for under $100 in parts and the shop might charge $125. If you do end up going the board route, I would just buy a replacement Balboa pack with topside. It will upgrade you to a more modern pack and could be less than replacing that board like for like.
  9. Nothing says you can't run heavy enough wire for a 30A circuit now, put in a 20A breaker. 10-2 will cover up to 125', run 8-2 and you will have plenty of capacity. This gives you options down the road. Trying to find modern breakers for old panels is a royal PITA. My outdoor main panel is a Siemens, QP panel, my indoor panel Is an old ITC and can take Siemens QD. The QP doesn't fit but a QD will fit in a QP panel. Confused yet?
  10. I'm sure @CanadianSpaTechwill weigh in shortly about this as he is our resident Gecko expert but as far as filter cycles, it is usually recommended to run the cycle for 2 hours 2 times a day as you have it currently set.
  11. The specs on the tub itself is 115V 30A or 220V 50A in one place and 115V 20A dedicated circuit in another. I get the confusion. Personally, I would run the 30A dedicated circuit, but I also have a 200A panel. Remember, the dedicated circuit is a single 20/30A outlet which is matched to the configuration of the cord, it's not hard wired into the tub. Per code, to not have a GFCI breaker or on the outlet itself, it must be a dedicated outlet. IMHO, the GFCI plug most Spa manufacturers use isn't all that great and tend to have a higher failure rate than a GFCI circuit breaker. I would rather put the GFCI breaker in the panel but again, that's me. There is absolutely nothing wrong with how you want to hook it up and you made a valid point about using the generator to power it if need be.
  12. Unfortunately, you are at the whim of the inspector. Local codes can be more stringent than NEC. Metal or plastic conduit? In general, NEC says you need to bury PVC conduit 18". 8" depth is required for EMT (hard metal) conduit and 24" depth for direct burial, unprotected cable. What is the material used for the spa? The inspector is specifying grounding based on a conductive surface, in which concrete is considered conductive. If the shell is fiberglass or acrylic, the inspector is interpreting the code incorrectly and you may have an point to discuss. If there is any conductive material on the shell, the inspector can require the ground system he said you need. Your electrical contractor should have known this as the conduit depths are well known.
  13. My experience is when the chlorine cartridge gets to low, the tub starts to get a bit funky. it's almost like the chlorine distribution slows to the point that there isn't enough residual chlorine to properly sanitize the tub. But because it isn't completely empty, I can't just throw it away. Why are you replacing the mineral cartridge on every fill? It's not used up. Replace it after 12 weeks. I also use the Taylor kit. I can't get good readings from the test strips, especially on PH and TA, the range of colors isn't enough for me and the fact there is only one shade for chlorine and that I found that it's almost always indicating change the cartridge when the chlorine levels are still in the good range on the Taylor kit. As long as the chlorine level is between .5ppm -1ppm, you are good. Because the Frog system uses Dantochlor, some of the Taylor tests will be inaccurate, like CC and FC. However, the PH. Chlorine level, CH, TA tests are more accurate with the Taylor kit and I just don't check for FC and CC. CYA of the Frog system should be 0 or close to it. Dantochlor does not add CYA but the Frog kick start does (as it's Dichlor). What CYA Kick Star adds is so small that it's negligible. I'm sure that King wants to sell more overpriced test strips but they suck IMHO. I also buy from Amazon. There is not a huge difference in cost between Amazon and my dealer but Amazon is more convenient as my dealer is 90 miles away.
  14. My tub will sometimes do this when it's cold out or the cover is slightly askew. I wouldn't worry about it.
  15. I never got around to weighing the full cartridge vs the full cartridge to see what the net contents of dantochlor was to figure out how much was needed. The original stuff is power form, I assumed the supplier version was the same. 1000g is about 2.2 lbs. I suspect that you will get more than 6 cartridges out of that. If so, that drops it to about $6 each and less if you can get more than 6 refills out of 1000g.
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