cranbiz

Amazon usually has them. A major supplier like Newark, Mouser, Digikey, etc. should also have them.

You replied to an 11 year old thread. I seriously doubt you will hear from the OP. Please start a new thread. In it describe your problem and post up pictures of the board and the dip switch settings and the wiring diagram of the new board. I suspect a dip switch is in the wrong position.

That's pretty typical for just about any industry. I don't know of any manufacturer, in any industry, that will extend the warranty period to cover the replacement part. That part, when replaced under warranty, assumes the remainder of the original warranty. It sucks but it's not unusual.

Probably cheaper to replace the whole Spa Pack with a Balboa unit. Post up pictures of the board and wiring diagram. What are the symptoms that have led you to believe the board is dead?

The Tiger River Spa line are Watkins Spas. Most sensors are in the 10K to 50K range. All sensors are normally very close in value to each other. Do you have the wiring diagram? It's usually on the inside cover to the electronics box. Post that up for us to view. While Watkins use proprietary boards and heaters, you should be able to get generic sensors from a place like Spa Depot.

I'll bet it's the centrifugal switch. Sometimes you can clean the contacts on them. They build up carbon on them from arcing when the contacts pull apart.

Attachments not attached. Please upload pictures of the damaged area. Just drop the pictures in the drag here box. Chances are you can fix it.

In theory, coming from the controller, you should have a black, white and red wires. The black goes on pin 2, the red onto pin 1 and white on pin 5. It would be really helpful if you post up pictures of your control board and the wiring diagram of it.

Sounds like the GFCI breaker is going bad. You pretty much eliminated everything else. Make sure all your power connections to the board, the breaker and neutral bus bar are clean and tight before changing the breaker.

Measure the water temperature. If it's normal, you probably have a bad sensor. What is your setpoint? Is the heater light on? Can you set the temp so the tub calls for heat? Do you have a multimeter and if so, do you know how to use it? Start with measuring the voltage at the heater terminals. 120V when calling for heat on a 110V tub, 220V on a 220V tub. If it's a bad sensor, you need to check the ohms on the sensor. It should be somewhere in the 10K range (could be in the 50K range) Post up pictures of your circuit board. the wiring diagram found on the cover and of your equipment area.

I would say so. That is also collaborated by the rain water entering the tub thru the cover.

Little chance of that, he is looking at a name brand portable Spa, not an inflatable.

Do you have and can you use a multimeter? First, measure the voltage on the heater terminals. You should have line voltage (120V or 240V depending on location and wiring) when the tub should be calling for heat. If you have voltage, it's not the board. Now we need to check the heater. Unhook it from the board and set your meter on ohms and read across the terminals. It should read between 11 and 18 ohms. Any more or less, replace the heater element.

Does that transistor have evidence of a burn mark/soot around it?

No, I don't. That being said, It's probably to keep the settings when power is off. It's an older board which probably does not have a persistent memory.