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Everything posted by cranbiz

  1. @castletonia I'm pretty sure he can help you here.
  2. Doh! You are absolutely right. My mind was obviously somewhere else. Probably on the replacement wire I needed to put in on my Jeep coil pack.
  3. It will depend on the size of the wires coming over from the main panel to the outlet. Chances are, no you can't. I'm guessing you are in Europe but here in the states, 15 A circuits (which are the normal general purpose circuits are 14 GA wire, 20 A circuits are 16 GA. You would actually need 8 GA wire to satisfy 32 A as 10 GA is good for only 30 A.
  4. Did you make sure the heating element wasn't touching the housing? Was it an OEM heater?
  5. Looking at your picture. Why is the center of the wet end of the pump plumbed to the pipe that appears to be halfway up the tub? That is normally the side that goes to the jets. Without seeing behind the spa pack, etc. It looks like you have the output of the pump plumbed to the drain (that's the section that has the sillcock on it) and your suction side is plumbed to the jets. Rule of thumb, pump suction side (center of a centrifugal pump) goes to the lowest point in the tub, the pump output side to the highest point in the tub and is the fitting on the round exterior housing.
  6. How did you test the temp sensors? Have you checked to see if the flow sensor isn't stuck on?
  7. Follow the AC power line back to the Spa Panel/Spa Disconnect. Inside that panel should be both circuit breakers.
  8. Need some more info here. Does it heat at all? Any errors on the displaay? Tub make and model, input voltage like 110V or 220V, pictures of the equipment area, the control pack insides and wiring diagram on the cover and of the equipment itself.
  9. Could be any of those. Start with a multimeter and ohm out the sensors. I would suspect any sensor that lives in the heater housing. This is a Watkins tub. Maybe @castletoniacan help.
  10. A lot of the 110V tubs can be converted to 220V. Have you looked into that? For heat therapy, you are fine. Unless you are soaking for hours, you won't have a lot of heat loss and you should be able to recover before the next soak. It just will take a bit longer to recover with a lower wattage heater.
  11. You need Seimens breakers or list equivalents in the main panel. In the sub panel, you need whatever GFCI is compatible with it. So, if you have a Seimens sub panel, you need Seimens breakers (Square D Homeline will also work in some Seimens panels and vis versa). If you have a Square D sub panel, you need compatible Square D breakers. As mentioned above Square D Homeline series panels will take Seimens breakers. I have a Seimens main panel in my home. My GFCI is in the main panel and I have a manual disconnect near the Spa. However, I have a Square D Homeline sub panel in my garage with Seimens breakers in it.
  12. In general, Hot Springs makes a decent tub and has a much better shell than the Vita's of today. However, if you were looking for maximum therapeutic value, this probably wasn't the tub to get. It only has a couple of high flow, large jets. Large high flow jets are what you need for maximum therapeutic value and this tub has an abundance of small jets. Was this bought because of price or was it size or was it features described to you? As far as flow, the performance won't be different. The pumps all spin at the same speed on 110V or 220V. The difference is the heater.
  13. Depending on the run, 4GA might be slightly overkill. If the run is less than 60', 6 GA is fine. You can use a 60A breaker into a 50A sub panel with the 50A GFCI. According to the specs published by Futura, the electrical service is 50A, so it should be able to pump and heat at the same time. They are using Gecko in series spa packs now but are not forthcoming with the heater wattage. My tub is rated at 50A and it heats with both pumps running however, it has a 6hp and a 3hp pump and a 5500w heater.
  14. Unfortunately, I don't feel that you are wrong. The difference should only be that it's going to heat more slowly and usually can't heat when running the jets. Pump speeds should be the same. IMHO, your dealer didn't do you any favors. If you had 220V available, that's what you should have got. I suspect this was a dealer selling something he had available. Really, do the math, the numbers don't lie. 50A at 220V or 30A at 110V. Which one has more power available to run different features? Your heater is probably set tor 1300W at 110V vs a 6000W heater at 220V.
  15. Granger sells various size sheets of Polypropylene. A 4'x4' sheet of 1/4" runs under $80. https://www.grainger.com/search/raw-materials/plastics/plastic-sheets-bars/polypropylene-chemical-resistant-sheets-bars?attrs=Material|Polypropylene~ATTRS~~Plastic+Length|48+in|96+in~~Plastic+Width|48+in&filters=attrs&searchQuery=polypropylene+sheet&sst=4&tv_optin=true
  16. A spa sled would make pushing the spa in the truck much easier. Not sure if you can rent one anywhere and they are not cheap to buy. A Polypropylene sheet is basically what a spa sled is. Sturdy plastic like sheet with a handle and it's got low friction. Then there is always the pipe roller system. Schedule 80 1" grey PVC pipe would easily do the job and is usually in stock at Lowes.
  17. Having a 50A GFCI and a 60A main is OK. The tub manufacturer says 50A and you have that. You have extra capacity coming into the spa panel which would let you add a GFCI outlet at the tub if you wanted accessories near by or decided on an aftermarket salt system. I wouldn't change out the GFCI. Those are not cheap and based on your tub's specs, not needed.
  18. While I echo the advice of one of our prestigious resident experts, There are ways of making this work. You have to build a base to set the tub on, on top of the side rails if they are strong enough. If they are not strong enough, you need to find a trailer without sides and still build up a sturdy base because you need to elevate the tub over the tires and support the tub fully during transport. Transporting on end any distance is really not recommended. With the current cost of lumber, hiring professional spa movers will be close to the cost of building the base and renting the trailer, not to mention the cost of beer and pizza for the 3 other guys you need to have help you move the tub.
  19. Just remember, your wife is never wrong. She just changed her mind. 😜
  20. The wiring is fine, the problem is the spa draws 53-55A, you are supplying a 60A circuit. You will have the possibility of overloading the 60A breaker IF you are drawing max current from both the 15A GFCI and the 60A GFCI. What I would do is run 1) 14GA THHN wire from the main panel as a 15A circuit, use the spa panel as a feed thru and then out to your 15A GFCI. You would need to run a neutral and a ground wire from the spa panel to the GFCI. That's my CYA legal advice. Ignore anything after this. As long as you are not going to have a heavy load on that outdoor GFCI, what you propose is not ideal but it will work. Just be aware that you do have the possibility to exceed the 60A breaker at the main and it will trip. To be clear, 15A circuit requires 14GA wire.
  21. Looks good. If I was doing this work, I would mark on both ends the white wire that will be carrying the load. Electrical tape will work for a marker although red tape is better (simply because traditionally 240V lines are red and black, neutral is white and ground is either green or bare copper).
  22. Technically, it's fine. It's no different than if you actually put a 30 A and a 20 A GFCI in your main panel and ran each of those circuits to it's own spa disconnect panel. To the Spa, it has a 20 A and a 30 A GFCI protected circuit. Watkins is funny about this. My theory is the rating of the sub panel. Are you using their panel or your own? It's not what you desire but for warranty purposes, I would do what Watkins permits,then run a separate circuit from the main panel to the outbuilding when you put it up.
  23. Technically, no. The single strands in romex are not usually marked, You are supposed to use THHN wire and using the wire from deconstructed romex, you can't prove to the inspector that it's THHN. In actuality, most, if not all romex consists of THHN wire so what you propose is fine. I will neither confirm or deny that the 3 6 GA and 10 GA ground wires in my 3/4" sealtite from the spa panel to the spa pack might have started life as 6/3 NM-B romex. I don't believe the inspector who inspected and passed my install actually looked very hard at the wires, but I also may personally know the electrical inspector.
  24. Post up some pictures of the area so we can see what you have. It could be the light fixture leaking or it could be the hose. The fact that it doesn't leak until it gets to the light makes me believe it's the light, which is not uncommon.
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