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  3. Hi all, Anyone know who makes the pillows that LPI uses? I have an old Laguna Bay tub and I refuse to order them through LPI as I'll probably never get them. it's the same tub as the Dr. Wellness x5 https://aqualivingstores.com/product/dr-wellness-x-5-spa/ Thanks! -Jay
  4. Hello thank you for your answers ! Once again, I can count on the community. This forum is great! Have a great holiday season
  5. is there a class action to take BRP to court on there fault gel coats?
  6. Just wanted to thank everyone on this forum. The main board/motherboard was replaced and everything is now functioning as expcted. The electical work was inspected and approved. Till next time. Goodbye
  7. For those still with foam troubles I found this really helpful for our issues. Crazy to think laundry detergent and other chemicals from just being in the hot tub can cause excess foam. My wife bought some Anti-Foaming agent which worked like a charm. https://mypoolhut.com/blog/5-tips-for-getting-rid-of-hot-tub-foam
  8. Yes they can... Usually the spring loaded flapper at the bottom of the filter housing called a filter bypass valve. Scum bugs have a way of mysteriously getting past filters. https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/52483-filter-bypass-valve/
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  10. Thanks very much for your response, sorry it has taken me so long to answer. I'm attaching photos. I tested and there is power coming into the circuit board. I replaced the 30A fuse. There is an inline 20A that seems to be fine. But still nothing happening. So, I guess this means I'm stuck with replacing? The unit is old--21 years--so I can't complain. Should I replace the whole box, which is pretty pricey, or is there another option? Thanks again for the advice, much appreciated.
  11. @inhotwater Thank you for the tip, I appreciate it! Just curious, how would it be possible for something to become lodged in the pump intake if the filter and screen have never been removed? Internal components can spontaneously break off and become lodged on the intake side of the pump?
  12. Hoping I can get some help diagnosing my spa following a nearby lightning strike. I thought the spa was ok, found the 30A GFI was tripped, did a reset and thought all was ok (heard circulator pump kick on, heater relays, etc). Sometime later found 50A house breaker tripped. Reset will run for 10-15 minutes, and trips again. Replaced the 30A GFCI since test mode wasn't working, the 50A breaker still trips. Opened up the IQ2000 control box to start troubleshooting. Biggest surprise to me was the Htr On LED stays on regardless of the control thermostat position (i.e. no voltage changes at relays with control rotated to "off" position, up to full blast position). Am I right assuming "full off" should stop sending power to the heater? I replaced the control thermostat board, no change. Unplugging this board turned off LIM OK and HTR ON, and turned on Control Unplugged LED. Resistance at the heater is 9-10 ohms; incoming voltage checks out ok, relays getting 20 v at coils, delivering 240 v to the heater. Two oddball findings, don't know if they're relevant; first with the 30A breaker off, seeing 2.5 v on one of the hot wires (probe between hot red and white common). Other hot wire measures 0 v as expected. Other oddball, when I touch one probe to the relay coil terminal, the relay powers down for a few seconds, then powers back up. Touching the second probe to the second terminal has no effect. My biggest question right now is, if my htr on is a real issue, do you think my motherboard is toast? If yes, it might be sawzall time...heavy sigh. If this isn't an issue, happy to dig in further to the tripping breaker problem. If my attached images come through, please ignore the burn marks on the schematic, thats from a relay melt down several years ago. Huge thank you for any suggestions you can offer!
  13. In case anyone is reading and this may be helpful to your situation- After about 10 hrs of the dichlor shock, water was still yellow. Right before going to sleep- we added a calcium booster, as we knew it was low. I hated to pour it in, figuring we were going to drain tub in morning due to yellow color. This morning the water has no yellow! Other than a slightly high ph- things look good per strips. I’m off to the pool store for another test to confirm. I want to order the Taylor test kit- but I’m not sure if we are going to keep using Dichlor method or switch to Bromine.
  14. Post photos of the spa pack, circuit board and schematic on the inside cover if there is one. The board is stuck in a boot loop. Low level power supply could be the issue and you would need an electronics repair person to fix. Where are you located?
  15. Looks like the LCD is failing. Unfortunately, the electronics mfg they used from Q3 2009 - Q2 2012 did go out of business and the displays are no longer available. Unless you can source a used one, a new control panel and control box + software are what will be needed. Probably looking around $1,000 in parts plus you will need the software from your dealer
  16. I have a artic spa model Malign 45. I recently found my spa display reading 222 and then r2 and then everything flashes and repeat. anybody have any ideas what is going on. Nothing works. I’ve tried turning off power, waiting a minute then turning back on. Same. thanks folks
  17. Either there is something in the wetend, (Toy, Nature two plastic piece, Bypass valve, or unmentionables) or the diffuser is worn. Turn off the power, and close both gate valves. Remove the union and feel around for the noise maker. When you loosen a union on a pump while it's running, you create an air lock cavitation. The load on the motor goes to almost zero, and no sound from obstructions.
  18. Looks like a Gecko topside... https://www.poolandhottubdepot.com/k-8-sl-tsc-8-ge1-topside-control-for-some-m-class-and-s-class/ I would call Gecko directly and ask what the correct replacement panel is. 1-800-784 3256
  19. I'm trying to understand my new ozone/uvc system, do you run ozone and pump round the clock? how about when soaking?
  20. Love my 2019 Jetsetter - best three seater in the industry! That looks like your screen is burning out - could be due to water/moisture, or just the age of the screen. The tough part is going to be finding replacement parts. If I'm not mistaken Watkins/Hotspring had an issue with a supplier going out of business and they had to completely rebuild new parts which are not cross compatible with each other. You may be able to get a replacement top-side panel cheap, but I think you might have to replace the entire spa pack if you want to go new. Some people sort through hottub junkyards and ebay to find replacement parts, other people have successfully removed the screen and replaced just the LCD panel (I seem to recall the screen used the same display as an older HP PDA device, but that's a long shot to find the exact part and have the skillset to solder dozens of pins on the panel). Personally I say if the screen display works sometimes and you can still use the spa without the display, just do that for now until you need to replace it or the whole tub.
  21. I believe there are two temp sensors on the spa, but I may be mistaken - did you replace both of them? Did you test the temp sensors with a multimeter to confirm they were reading within proper range before installing?
  22. Did you wire up the spa correctly? Most 220v Hotspring spas use two breakers (20amp and 30 amp) instead of a single 50-amp breaker - a common thing I see is people who try to wire the tub to a single breaker like a traditional hot tub this can cause all sorts of issues with the tub. Assuming it's wired correctly, does the circulation pump still work? It's possible the tub is in protect mode - this can be caused by faulty temp sensor which is preventing the tub from accurately reading the temperature of the water. In this scenario the heater will never kick on because the tub doesn't know what temp it's at. If you know how to use a multimeter you can check the temperature sensor to see if it's reading within range, if not they are cheap and easy to replace. That'd be the first thing I'd check out.... assuming the circ pump is actually working as intended.
  23. Hi - newbie here. We have a brand new hot tub, 290 gal LifeSmart tub. After hook up and initial fill using a hose end filter due to well- water was clear looking and all seemed good. We added Spa Metal Free by Natural Chemistry, put filter in and turned jets and heat on. Within 5-10 mins the water was a light green and then turned mostly yellow with 15-20 mins. We did a Spa Purge (foaming and a bit reddish brown flakes appeared), filter also orange/red color. We then drained tub and rinsed filter. Next day, we filled tub again using a hose end filter. Again, water was clear. Added Spa Metal Free and began circulating and heating the tub. Again within 5 mins water in tub turned greenish to yellow. My question is, could the Spa Free Metal be causing discoloration? The plumbing in new tub contaminated? Or is our water (3 ppm iron well water) clear and then turns yellow upon heating/aerating? Anyone have any ideas. My plan now is to shock to see if the yellow goes away. Ph is about 7.4 and Alk is 115-120 per pool store. On test strips, alk looks lower.
  24. Ok this tub has been a nightmare! I got it cheap and the man said there was A LEAK, not just 1 though, I ended up repairing 10-15 plus replaced 2 sides of jets. Doesn't leak, them circulation pump had to be replaced. It still does not heat! Pretty sure it's the board. ?
  25. Hi All, I've got an older Thermospa in which the 'finish' on the foam headrests is in rough shape. It looks like they were originally coated with some kind of paint, but in many places that finish is worn off and I can feel the exposed spongy material below. They have some mildew staining as well in places and I'm hesitant to use standard mildew products to try and clean it up before I understand if I can refinish them in some way. Structurally they are in good shape, it's just the finish that is the issue. I have found some new ones for sale but they are $50-$75 each and there are 6 in the tub. Does anyone know of a path to restoration for these? Thanks, Rob
  26. Hi all, I have a Hydroquip 8600 series control with a defective topside panel. I am looking for info on a replacement for the K5 (HT-2) 8 button panel. Does anyone have info on this or suggestions on how to re-pin an alternate so it will work? Thanks for your help!
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