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  1. Today
  2. Hi again. Thanks for the link. I have been in contact again with spa marvel and they said that i shouldn't combine spa marvel with a salt brominator system! I have been following all the advice given by waterbear and have acheived a perfect water balance when measured. The only issue is that bacteria is invisible and when my rash has gone i would like to know 100% that i have removed the problem before i bathe again. As the water has been "Shocked" to 12ppm with bromine i was hoping this is sufficient, but i have no way to measure the effectiveness of my treatment.
  3. On the bottom left of the inside cover schematic it says Low level programming set to CU1 for 1 x 32 amp. Also there is normally a list of the jumper settings but I don't see one on the inside cover so you may want to contact Gecko Europe. The jumper settings will program the spa. They are usually very helpful here in Canada. There is a phone number for them on the inside cover top right
  4. Yesterday
  5. I’m pretty sure we did that before…was 240 on low and 240 on high..if I remember correctly 🤔
  6. It's great to be a part of such a forum. There are a lot of useful discussions and posts are here. Some tips I will use for my own health. I hope it will help as well. Thanks to my friend Sam and the source he told me about I will finish my discussion post on time and can try those procedures I have found here.
  7. We have moved on a bit but the problem is not solved. The relay has been replaced by a new one but it does not work.After measuring it carefully, we found that the control voltage to the relay was 16.5 volts. In our opinion it should be 24 volts but we are not sure. We also checked the transformer and it gives an output of 12 and 24 volts as it should. Where can the problem now be???? My electronics repair guy is someone who is already retired but has always worked in electronics but does not have all the measuring equipment to properly measure everything. Who can help us further?
  8. Same issue here. Has anyone had any success under the warranty?
  9. I believe that Canadian Spa Tech means that a pressure switch or flow switch will NOT activate, so no power will be delivered to the heating element.
  10. I have a Freeflow Spa that is currently on a 120v circuit. Normally when I power the spa on, the temperature shows up and the pump kicks on low and starts heating to set temperature. Now when I power on, the temp doesn't show up and low speed pump doesn't turn on so it wont heat. However, if I turn on the high speed jets for about a minute, the temperature finally shows up and I can turn off the high speed jets, which then the low speed runs and achieves set temperature. This only works if I wait for the temp to show up before turning off high speed jets. After reaching temperature, low speed shuts back off but wont restart when temp drops and needs to heat again. Then FLO error shows up after the low speed doesn't turn on. The only way to get spa to heat again is to shut off and start again. I've replaced heater with flow sensor and then replaced the relays on the circuit board thinking they were the problem but didn't fix it. Any help where to go from here would be appreciated. Thanks
  11. Post some photos of the area you have the spa in and perhaps that will help us see what you are working with. In tight spaces it is not uncommon to flip the cover up onto the back edge of the spa. Sorry best pic I have available
  12. I appreciate your reply. I'll probably have to be somewhat creative to come up with a solution that may hold the cover.
  13. Most of it is in the pump motor, but I would disconnect the pump and test voltages at the circuit board if you haven't already.
  14. Last week
  15. Pipe sprang a leak; this morning it was almost empty and the power was off. I had just had a new heater put in: will that heater still work after I get the leak fixed and refill the tub? Thx in advance ... D Miller
  16. Well hello again! We took out the pump and there was no debris or anything restricting flow. Thought we might as well replace the capacitor to see if that solved the problem. Which apparently it did not 😔 so I am just going to order a replacement pump I guess. Not sure how to test any of the other things you mentioned in the previous post. Again..thank you for your help!
  17. FIXED! So after going through what you had said at the GFCI and voltage being correct. I checked continuity between the ground and white. There was none. I went back to the panel in the garage and the white had come loose. I thought it was secure but it was completely loose. Thanks so much for the help! Hopefully this helps someone else with similar symptoms.
  18. That is proprietary info, and they will not release it. I've tried. All you can get is instruction on what wire to connect where, not circuit board schematics. They are in the business of selling electronics, and will not release their intellectual property to the public. Buy a board, or get relays replaced if you like. And get a spa technician or electronics repair guy, not an electrician. The fact that your electrician is under the impression that it's possible to get what he asked for implies that he has no experience working on electronics in spas. The manufacturer never intended for their boards to be repaired, and anyone who has gone through the trouble of reverse-engineering their stuff is not going to give it away either.
  19. I suspect you have lost the neutral, in your breaker or wiring. Remove wires from breaker and test voltage at the terminals. You should read 120v to white on both red and black. If you do not, check voltage into the disconnect box and verify you have 120v there. The white having 0 does not make the voltages correct, you need 120v to red and black.
  20. Got my cover holder like 20 years ago; it's two metal bars, bent like in photo.
  21. I removed the wires from the spa pack. The voltage coming from the GFCI is correct. White to black, white to red both 120 v. Red and Black 240. White to ground 0. Red to ground 120 and Black to ground 120. I re attached and again have the weird voltage. As if there is a relay open that is feeding the white wire 120 v. I checked if there is continuity between Black and White and it beeps and shows 40 ohms. I'm having a hard time trying to find the voltage for the pump. It is a plug and play model that can be 120 or 240. I'll keep looking. Here is a pic of the topside. Thanks for the help.
  22. Sorry, but I need to be able to blow that pic up a bit to see the plumbing better. Do the lines on the right side before they go into the ground have any labels on them?
  23. You have a bad/loose wire connection there somewhere. I would disconnect them from the pack and test them as I said above... W to blk 120V, W to red 120V, red to blk 240. If you get anything different redo the wiring in the GFCI. If it is good then re attach to the pack and test again. Last time I came across this the electrician had it wired into the GFCI and one lug was cross threaded and wire was loose. Lug felt tight but wasn't.
  24. Wonkhester: Waterbear has made numerous postings for you to follow. Just do what the man says and you will see vast improvement. Regarding the hot tub rash, I am somewhat informed what causes this in many cases and would instruct you again to do what Waterbear says to do. Besides following his chemical recommendations it is extremely important that you Purge your hot tub with a high-quality purge product. The recommended purge product is the AhhSome as it will remove the bacteria that is most likely causing your rash. That bacteria is Pseudomonas Aeruginosa. The Ahh-Some product has been tested at America's #1 Biofilm Testing University, Montana State University, and is successful in removing this biofilm. Actually, when compared to an enzymatic purge product the ahhSome was rated as being more effective at removing the "PA" biofilm by over 5,000%. This data is on the internet. You mention a product in one of your postings called Spa Marvel. This may be a worthwhile product but I recently found information on this enzyme that was put to the test by an "OCD" hot tub owner. I will attach the link here for you to read since you previously brought this product up in your recent post. What this forum tries to do is help you. I have been more active with my postings of late because I see so much mis-information and speak to hundreds upon hundreds of hot tub owners who are frustrated because they hear so many methods and recommendations. This forum and its participants really have your interest at heart. So Wonkhester, follow what Waterbear has told you. His wisdom on the subject of water maintenance is enlightening. Here is the article I ran across on the Spa Marvel. https://rvdoug.com/blog/spa-marvel-review-part-1-the-enzymes/
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