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  2. here are links to the .pdf files hosted on the web where i found them. https://www.spapartsdepot.com/content/77119.pdf https://www.spaguts.com/Documents/Instructions_Wiring_IQ2020_System-77271_Board-77087.pdf
  3. really? i just pulled up this thread in 3 different browsers on 4 different devices and was able to view the photos. here are 6 links to the same images uploaded to another website. https://ibb.co/R7pP6LJ https://ibb.co/S6CWvR7 https://ibb.co/8YdNR8t https://ibb.co/yRvNn7M https://ibb.co/89gb9hH https://ibb.co/vxXB4WT edit: another link to an album including all 6 images, 3 wiring diagrams that are all alike, 1 photo of current board, 2 photos of old board how it came to me. https://www.photo-pick.com/online/v3bL3XA3.link
  4. @castletonia, any idea what a flashing green light means?
  5. Well, by process of elimination, you are down to circ pump or controller. Post a picture of your circuit board, wiring diagram, manufacturer sticker, and breakers with wires visible.
  6. Today
  7. I usually won't respond to a thread this old, but wanted to throw in my 2 cents worth. The laing circulation pump has been used for decades in closed loop heat exchanger systems (what they were made for) and last forever in those circumstances. Their advantage over other types is the fact that there is no shaft seal to wear out. Put in an open to air, debris rich, chemical soup and there can be some issues. Scale can unbalance the impeller, (as can hair, leaves, strings from cutoff shorts, and your necklace) which is fatal to one of these, and flow restrictions are just as bad. For a pump
  8. Well it turns out the 3/10 amp fuse on the circuit board is bad. I have to try to find one, I only have a Home Depot locally and they list a .5 amp time delay fuse or a local spa repair place I'm going to try Monday or I'll have to order online.
  9. Drain it, set it up on blocks, being sure to support the footwell base as well as the perimeter, fill it up and crawl underneath to dig out plastic spray covered wet foam. Keep digging until you find where it's dripping from. With any luck, it will be the small hoses in the drain line itself. But because of the materials and process used by hot springs it could be leaking from anywhere in the spa and finding its way out there.
  10. I attached to my second post the full inside cover, the diagram that came with the updated board pn 77087, as well as the diagram from the updated heater board pn 77119. to this post i have attached full instruction files for both new boards as .pdf Instructions_Wiring_IQ2020_System-77271_Board-77087.pdf 77119.pdf
  11. The one on the inside of the box cover, as well as the one that came with the new board if you have it.
  12. I think I have the same problem. A slight leak that seemingly originates from the screw cap of the right (no valve) drain on my HS 3 seater tub. The leak is very minor, but changes/increases if I push or put lateral pressure on the cap. I am prepared to fix it. I'm somewhat handy, but inexperienced with hot tubs. Would you mind explaining the process?
  13. My HT has a flashing green light that I can’t seem to fix. The issue started with flashing red and green lights. Our hot tub dealer had us replace the pressure switch which led to a flashing red light. This time our HT dealer had us change the high limit and thermistor. Now we are at the flashing green light. What I’ve done so far. 1: Bled the circ pump line. 2: Tested ohms on new thermistor and high limit. Within 1 ohm of each other. 3: At this point dealer called Watkins tech support who said the control board is bad. Ordered board. 4: Installed board. No change. 5: Re-ins
  14. @RDspaguy previous owner had spa tech diagnose 'motherboard', I inspected before i bought parts, found a burnt relay on the heater board, replaced that, then gave power and old board showed no life at all, no lights despite receiving power. I'm sorry which wiring diagram? also found the fuse on the old board had a 12ga solid wire wrapped around it.. edit:added pics
  15. What is around the area? Diverter valve, perhaps? Filter well? Post some pics. Older D1 spas had bleeders in the filter well for the pumps that would gurgle if left open after the circ pump had primed due to the ozone injection. I don't know about new ones, but you might check them if you have them.
  16. Why did you replace the old board? Post a picture of the wiring diagram.
  17. Hi there, How can 8 find out the model tub I have? We bought it off a friend and there is no manual and the control panel just says Coast spas
  18. Yesterday
  19. Hi! I just set up my spa today and I'm having the exact same problem. Did you ever figure out what the issue was? Thanks for any help, Kevin
  20. I have the Tropic Seas Spas, Rio Model #751L (build date 10/30/20) and needing assistance with the topside control panel. I have downloaded the user manual (dated Dec, 2019) but it only gives information about the basic settings. I am wanting information about the Pref (preference) and Util (utility) settings that are also available in my topside display. Thanks for any help or where to look for the full manual.
  21. The white wires connected to White AC are being powered by 120VAC. White AC (cluster of male connectors coming off the circuit board) is 120VAC. Red AC cluster provides 240VAC power. So if a white wire coming from a component like a pump or blower is connected to White AC it is running as a 120V. If it is going to Red AC it is powering a 240V component. Your components might only be 120V and can't be run by 240. You would have to verify each components voltage before making any changes. If it was set up and run as it is now then it should be fine as is. Again least of your worries at this poin
  22. It was set up with 240 previously, it was strictly me 100% not paying attention and just assuming. I've wired 240 before but never with the GFCI. I am going to test all of them again and hope for the best. All the components are 240.
  23. My spa pump kicks out when it is on one outlet but when I plug it into another outlet on the same circuit it will work. What would cause the one to work and the other not too.
  24. Yeah remove and check that glass F4 fuse it powers the board. Was the spa set up to run as a 120VAC spa before you got it? I see a lot of components (white wire) connected to White AC (120VAC) and don't see anything plugged into RED AC (240VAC) Are the pumps, blower 240 or 120? Least of your worries at this point but if you get it going we can look at all that.
  25. Hello everyone, Jonas from germany here. I´ve got a Mspa delight Aurora 06 Whirlpool. I bought it about 2 years ago. Now the Heater seems like to be very weak. The Heater needs 4-5 Days to heat the water up to 38 degrees Celcius. I cleaned up everthink, also the pump system. I completely dismounted everything. There wasn´t too much dirt in it. Can anybody help me with that? Thanks!
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