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  2. How big is your tub and how are you testing? There is a known interference with phenol red used to test pH and high sanitizer levels. 3 to 4 Tbls. of 7.5% bleach will raise 100 gal. 9 to 12 ppm over the starting point (usually around 3 to 5 ppm) and pH test will show this interference when sanitizer is over 5 to 10 ppm, depending on who makes the reagent. The effect of the interference in that the pH will read high when it is not. Your pH is not rising, it's still 7.4 and my guess is that you free chlorine is high when you get the high pH reading
  3. Only in a pool with no Cyanuric Acid (stabilizer). Once stabilizer is present the Free Chlorine has to be run higher to achieve the same sanitizing and Algae killing effect.
  4. Algae is prevented by ensuring a free chlorine level of 1-3ppm in the pool, every day. But yeah, your pool chlorine is always getting used up, so the trick is finding an easy way to maintain that level. Have you ever thought about buying a salt chlorine generator? With salt pool systems, algae infestations don’t generally occur, because a salt chlorine generator system automatically provides consistent sanitation every day, unlike a traditional pool system.
  5. Yesterday
  6. Welcome to the 51 club! Almost halfway there lol. Hope you had a good one.
  7. At a loss here. My CYA is 35, my TA is 70 and my PH is 7.4 until I add bleach. I am using 7% bleach. After adding 3-4tbs of bleach, my PH shoots to over 8. Please help, not sure what I am missing.
  8. Now they are all working… thanks for your help! I’m sure it’s still in or maybe I got lucky and it blew out. Had some black garbage in the bottom of the spa after running it for an hour. All clean and all keys working - no leaks.
  9. That leak should be straightforward to fix. Either cut off the old fitting (if hose is long enough) or study up on the heat gun technique to loosen the glue and pull off the leaking fitting.
  10. Unfortunately on the other side - Pickering area. My Spa is an old year 2000 Sundance Altamar. The size of the current cover is 81" x 86.5" and thickness tapers from 5 to 3" inches. We purchased the house 2.5 years ago and this is the cover that was on the spa but based on age of the spa, probably not the original cover. If I order these same dimensions, will the cover shrink slightly over time?
  11. No website. Just sell locally to existing customers. I am in the Milton area. Where are you located and what brand and model of spa?
  12. Pool heater won’t work🤦‍♀️. We have the Lochinvar ER402 Heater operated fine last season. This season the heater will run through the start up cycle but does not fire. We replaced the air pressure switch but still does not fire. We confirmed that there is 7” w.c. Gas pressure at the inlet to the gas solenoid valve. Appreciate any suggestions on what we should check next? Thank you😊
  13. We have a 27-foot aboveground pool and we are using the softswim chemical system. I have access to cheap solar panels which are glazed and have copper plates and pipes. For chorine chemical control systems I have been advised the copper pipes will pit and develop leaks. Are the soft swim additives less corrosive?
  14. I have a t 220 Softub that overheated and began to leak from pipes. Is it a thermostat or circuit board issue??
  15. I have a Softub model t 220 which overheated to the point water was extremely hot and began to leak out of the seals on pipes. Is there a thermostat in this or does it need a new circuit board??
  16. Just had one of these controllers for repair. Happy to have found the forum. I removed the relays easily with a low temp solder called chipquik, it melts are 58 degrees. Heat the relay pins and flood the connection with chipquik. once you have done the four connections, reheat them and the relay will drop right out. Testing the relays, one was definitely faulty - would not actuate. Have order spares from RS components, @AndyO
  17. Cool Thanks. I am also in the GTA area. You say you sell spa covers? Do you have a website?
  18. It was used, and in the persons garage not hooked up to power. You sure that is the temperature sensor? I am not the most handy person, any links to where they show people replacing them that you can recommend? I am not sure what you mean by seal and replace/reposition it. The drain is a single hose with a screw cap on it. THANKS FOR THE RESPONSE! Matt
  19. Last week
  20. Was it used? Did you buy it from a dealer or from the classifieds? Was it fully functional when you saw it, or was it disconnected/drained when you bought it? Temperature sensors are a safety feature. They are a common point of failure and easy to diagnose/replace. Might have loosened the nut too much and caused a seal to come loose. But releasing an air-lock is beneficial for a pressure flow-switch sensor issue, not a temperature sensor issue. I'm no expert, but if the seal has been damaged or misaligned, you might need to drain the spa and reposition/replace the seal then re-assemble.
  21. After YEARS of my wife begging me to get a hot tub I finally caved. I got a 2019 Sundance Bristol 780. After getting everything all setup and having the electrician run the panel, I ran the tub for about 5 hours to get the temp up. Issue #1 After 5 hours the tub turned off and I got a SN--2 “WATER SENSOR ERROR”. Tried a bunch of trouble shooting that I found online, nothing worked and now I have a "Watchdog call for service" warning. Issue #2 One of the troubleshooting ideas was the "burp" the tub by opening the drain valve hose. I did that, let the water drain for a little and then closed it back up. However, now the water is leaking under the cap on the drain hose. Even though it is tightened all the way. Any of you Hot Tub Gurus have any tips or guidance for either issue above? Thanks, Matt
  22. Alright finally getting back on this project. The leak was actually coming from two of the 1/2" hoses not the 1" outlet. I tried using the 2 part plastic weld on them but just couldn't get around the back to get a good seal and it didn't stop the leaking. Then tried cutting the hose and cleaning up the inside of the 1/2" manifold port with a dremel to try and glue in new hose but the angle was too steep and ended up going through the outside wall with the dremel. So it looks like we have arrived at Plan C which is replacing the entire manifold. Fun! Here is what I have for parts. This reducer will go from the 1" hose to the manifolds. https://hottubspasource.com/products/2-x-1-inch-pvc-reducer-bushing?variant=13650171232302 These are the three manifolds that will be glued together https://hottubspasource.com/collections/hot-tub-pvc-manifolds/products/2-inch-x-six-1-2-inch-pvc-manifold To glue the manifolds together would you use an "inside pipe connector" like this one or just a piece of flex? https://www.spadepot.com/Pipe-Inside-Connector-2-P10200C730.aspx Then for all the 1/2" hoses I think I'll glue an 8-12" section into each manifold then cut the hoses back and use a coupler to join them together. My order would be: Glue manifolds together. Glue reducer on. Glue all 1/2" extensions into manifold. Cut old manifold out. Glue and spin on new manifold. Cut and glue 1/2" hoses starting with back side working to front side. Does that sound like good order of operations/repair procedure? Thanks!
  23. Here in Canada average lifespan is 3-5 years. Longer if they are taken care of with uv protectant. In my area there are a multitude of online sellers but in reality there are only 2 or 3 cover manufacturers and a large percentage (including me) buy from the same MFG. They also produce for a large number of OEM's. Most will offer Standard, Better and Best options at different price points. The "Best" option I offer includes upgrades to 8mil Vapor Barrier, Overlap at center skirt, full end to end foam seal a 2 rubber handles. Recommend 5"-4" taper. Prices have increased dramatically and lead times are 10 weeks out. Standard cover 2mil vapor barrier, 2 end sealing pads
  24. Thanks....I can't locate the exact leak location.....I thought I read somewhere with the pumping running or not running, would eliminate possible leak locations. So if it leaks from the pump either way.....I will refill the tub. But only refill about a 1/3 at a time. Might help locate the height of the possible leak, if it's in a jet. If it's in the pump.....then get a new one or replace the seal. At least I can locate the exact location. The tube has been covered and inside and minimum usage. I have drained (maintenance) it more times than used it. So it's worth whatever I have to do to fix. But finding the leak......seems to be the biggest headache. Thanks...
  25. Happy Birthday my friend. Hope you had a good day.
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