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  2. How are you testing? A pH of 6.2 is dangerously low and can damage the equipment A FC reading of 80 ppm is impossible. no pool spa test for FC goes that high How many gallons is your spa and how much of the chlorine granules did you add? Also, what is the ingredient(s) listed on your chlorine granules could be several reasons for this. Let's start with how you are testing your water (please don't say test strips, they are practically useless).
  3. files jumper settings and conversion came up as unavailable
  4. I would recommend against the ionizer. They call it minerals but in reality it's putting metals into your water. Clearblue uses silver, copper, and zinc in an electronic ionizer system. It is not a passive system like Nature 2 or FROG (which I also am not a fan of). These are basically algaecides that have some activity against bacteria but very slow kill times and no effect against viruses, which is why they must be used in conjunction with chlorine. Copper is particularly problematic since it can and does stain spa surfaces and turns hair green (green hair, often wrongly attributed to chlor
  5. I have already nuked it once but I only left it in there for two hours while running the pumps as many times as I could over that two hours. I am just going to keep doing Ah-some until no more **** comes out. However long that takes. Definitely a pain in the butt.
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  7. So I have a leak on the floor of my Paris lazy spa! Can't find where it's leaking from so was wondering if anyone would be able to help? Is there a sealant that I can use? Not patches!!
  8. IF you added bromine you have a bromine spa. total and free chlorine tests are meaningless. Depending on your test method there are ways to get a bromine reading if your testing method does not have a bromine scale. Do this and we could help you. We need more information! Is this a new tub?
  9. Originally the error that was on display was " - - -" which I've read is the watchdog message. The wire going from the heater to J34 on the circuit board. Actual temp was 120+, display temp was 99 or so. In the tub the thermometer ( I used two) is 90 degrees now but the hot tub shows 70 degrees. So clearly something going on there. We always kept it set around 75-80 which if this is correct was around 90 or so since I never thought to compare the water temp displayed with another thermometer.
  10. Sounds like you are using a DPD test such as found in the Taylor K-2005(comparator block with shades of red). IF you are NOT using non chlorine shock (MPS) then you get combined chlorine reading (CC) (combined chlorine is chlorine that has reacted with organics in the water and no longer sanitizes, aka chloramines) by subtracting the Free Chlorine AKA FC (chlorine that sanitizes) from the Total Chlorine (TC). Ideally TC and FC are the same giving a CC of 0 ppm. (TC-FC=CC) IF you ARE using non chlorine shock (MPS) this does not work since MPS WILL test as CC IF you are using a Taylo
  11. Hotspot Jumper Settings.pdf Hotspot Conversion.pdf
  12. Hi Jason, The Pentair SuperFlo VS 1.5HP Variable Speed Pool Pump (SKU 342001) is the same HP as the single-speed pump you are looking to replace. It's compatible with 115/230V with no need to upgrade existing wires. More specs are available here: https://www.epoolsupply.com/products/pentair-superflo-vs-1-5hp-variable-speed-pool-pump-342001 Our team is also happy to answer any questions you have about finding the right size pump for your pool, feel free to contact us anytime.
  13. Slimy surface is usually bacterial and will not always product CC. From all the stuff the purges have removed I suspect that the spa was stores for a long time without being drained. You might want to consider nuking it with bleach. This means adding enough bleach to get your FC up to about 50 ppm (36 oz of 6% laundry bleach for a 350 gallon tub), leaving the spa uncovered, and circulating the water until the chlorine level drops below 10 ppm. Turn the heater down or off and don' use the spa until the chlorine level is below 10 ppm. You won't be able to test this level of chlorine with either
  14. I also am starting to suspect a biofilm issue in my tub with what seems to be excessive sanitizer consumption without bathing, but I want to clarify this comment. Does ozone also destroy FC in a short timespan? Same for bromine? I'm assuming this is resulting in inactive chlorites/chorates and bromites/bromates but I thought that would be a slower process.
  15. Taylor K-2006 and 25 ml water sample? if the SWCG was working properly you should not have needed to add bleach daily. That would be my guess. DId this problem start after you replaced the cartridge or was it before Bleach should not have any major impact on salt level. What brand of SWCG do you have and what is the manufacturers recommended salt level? How are you testing the salt level? Are you using a drop test, salt test strips, or a readout on your unit?
  16. 2016 tub . Electrical is no problem 32 yrs as a electrician at power plant. Another question do you make the soft jumper changes after you power it up on 220.
  17. Of course that did not work. Had them come out and flush the lines through hydrant. Still brown. Ordered some stuff to clear water and will run through old filter. I bought a new one to put in when I get clear water.
  18. Hello. I run Nature2 with non-chlorine shock and occasional diclor (weekly or a bit more often). One of the staff at the Nature2 company said......……if free chlorine readings do not match "not free Chlorine readings", I should shock with diclor. I think that's what he said but I'm curious if he was saying free and total chlorine reading should be the same. How do I measure "non free chorine" readings. Do I just subtract Total from Free Choline to get "non free chlorine" Is this important to be checking and how often would you recommend checking this? Any other informatio
  19. @waterbear, thank you again for your time and all of your feedback and advice. Since we last spoke I drained my hot tub, followed @Nitro's full cleanse instruction and then filled it back up and followed all of your instruction and @Nitro's Dichlor/Bleach in a nutshell method. For weeks I've now got perfectly clear and clean water that is amazing. My pH is at 7.6 and my TA is at 60 and everything is staying stable. I added 50ppm of borates and I'm sure that is helping as well. I now have my maintenance process working as it should and know how to measure and adjust as needed...properly. The fa
  20. Post a pic of the circuit board and heater. What errors were on the display? Which one? Actual temp, displayed temp, or both? In the tub or on the heater?
  21. It's quite possible like you had mentioned in an earlier post, perhaps the original tub owner never really took care of it? Could be the reason he sold it as well. Water chemistry isn't my forte either can be frustrating It may be very well it's finally getting a long awaited purge and stuff is still becoming detached from the plumbing and heating elements. Perhaps just super chlorinate it. Then do a complete refill and use it for a while and do it all again after you have used for a while. Thinking as long as you are keeping up with the FC levels you should be ok.
  22. I thought so myself but just thinking outside the box. Like if something was in it that attached to the ah-some or something. Just hard to believe I am still getting such nasty out of this hot tub
  23. That just means it can be used in a High Efficiency washing machine eg: Front End Load Washer Just an FYI
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