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  2. Hahaha i actually laughed out loud when i read that! I am learning as i go here, and am glad that you are taking the time to help me out. So thank you. I will return the SquareD (bad reputation?). My main house panel is a Siemens. I'm going to stop by an electrical supply store near me in the morning and hope they have a box and GFCIs i need. I want to do it right so i'm just going to pay the extra. I will also look into Home Depot and see what they have as well. It shouldn't be too hard to find a box to fit the 30amp and 20amp GFCIs. I was hoping to use the 50a box but i want my family safe.
  3. Not many metal parts in a spa pump, but the heater element more than makes up for that if it's not the stainless steel one. What color are your filters?
  4. Just one jet out of how many? Which one? Do you have an ozonator? Are there air control valves?
  5. Lucky you! What brand, out of curiosity?
  6. Oh noooo!!! Never buy squareD! They have another one (maybe it's home depot) by Midwest I think, that is an actual sub-panel with spaces for more breakers. What brand is your main panel (in the house)?
  7. I'm not sure what you mean by pulsating jets. Please elaborate.
  8. the 4 in 1 tabs usually contain copper but copper stain would deposit on the surface of the tub and would not easily dislodge. Algae usually attached to the walls and has to be brushed off or is dispersed throughout the water, giving it a a green tinge. My guess is pollen or other fine plant matter which is carried by the wind and either floats on the surface or sinks to the bottom, and depending on the circulation from the jets, will then usually collect in the same areas of the tub such as steps or ledges or it is corrosion caused by a pH crash and subsequent damage to metal pump parts. I really can't say more without a full set of test results. Saying that "the chlorine, ph and alkalinity is always spot on" does not impart any useful info. You said you use tablets and you stated you test for chlorine which means you are using trichlor, which is usually not recommended for hot tubs because of their very low pH which can damage tub parts and corrode metal pump parts if the pH crashes, which is a given for the small amount of water in tubs vs. pools. For this reason Dichlor (graunular stabilized cholorine) is normally used in tubs because it has an only slightly acid pH. HOWEVER, if you are using stabilized chlorine exclusively you need to test for Cyanuric Acid since it will accumulate in the water. (Stabilized chlorine sources are chlorine chemicallly bound to cyanuric acid). Once Cyanuric acidd levels get too high it does not allow the chlorine to sanitize or kill algae since it stays bound to the cyahuric acid instead of being released as chlorine sanitizer. Get a full test results (NOT done with test strips), post them, and we can take it from there. In the meantime I suggest reading: https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/23090-dichlorbleach-method-in-a-nutshell/
  9. Hi Guys, I just noticed that I get a lot bubbles from one jet but other has very little if any, when I touch it with a finger I can feel flow but no bubbles. Air lock ? Thank you
  10. Yesterday
  11. Hi Guys, I did the initial "initialization" with filters installed, should I remove them and re initialize/purge again ? Thx
  12. HI RDspaguy, This tub was literally built 3 days ago and delivered from local factory. So I guess I will skip Ahh-Some, even that I have some for my jacuzzi tub Thank you
  13. Hi everyone new to The Forum. Anyways, I currently have a 2002 Marquis Spa Leisure series The Wish hot tub. Just replaced the pump and still dealing with pulsating Jets have done all the checks for air in the line, the filter is clean not sure if anyone has any answers. Thanks in advance.
  14. So the pumps are 120v. Lowes sells more than one. Post a pic of it.
  15. Pressure switch turning on and off pump? I suspect it is overheating in the heater or a faulty sensor or perhaps board/transformer.
  16. You'll be fine. That plug is a dedicared circuit.
  17. You should not add aquafinesse ever. Read the sticky thread on the dichlor/bleach method in hot tub water chemistry section. Bear in mind that ozone and uv will both eliminate chlorine in your water, so shock after each use and expect low or no chlorine the next day. A new spa should be purged with Ahh-Some spa purge. After testing the spas are often stored for long periods and then shipped around the country which can result in all kinds of nasties growing inside the pipes. Clean that stuff out.
  18. Here is what I have. The schematic for the panel and the panel itself. The dual 50 amp disconnect is just the standard one from Lowe's
  19. I am guessing so? Below/attached is photo of the pool control system (you can see the gfci outlets on the right) plus the electrical map of the pool control system zoomed in (if it helps). I've attached
  20. Will it be on the same circuit/breaker as the pool? Usually needs a dedicated 15 or 20 amp breaker to run without tripping.
  21. I'm not hot tub filtration pro... But I know filtration solution, More media usually equals better filtration* not knowing specs on bot its speculation. And then you can look at different media types for filter to improve filtration
  22. Hi Guys, I just filled my tub for the first time. ( I filled via filter hole, alternated two holes ) I turned the power on, the tub was initializing, I turned both pumps on high during initialization. Seems like all went well. - hope I did it all ok Should I add some chlorine or aquafinesse right away? What filter cycles should I set, Tub is equipped with Ozone/UV (Aquanova ) Any tips, Thank you!
  23. Hi experts! Short version: When replacing hot tub filters, is it OK to increase the sqft of the filters (with all other dimensions being equal)? (e.g. replace 35sqft OEM filter with a 50sqft after market filter). Longer version: My hot tub is a 2015 Marquis E-Series 545. According to the website their replacement OEM filters are #20364. It's a 5" x 13 5/16" (2 1/8" hole), with simple core. Importantly it's a 35sqft filter. The OEM filters are a) expensive b) harder to find (only found on specialty websites), whereas filters like: Unicel C-4950 are available everywhere and are half the price. It has the same dimensions EXCEPT it is a 50sqft filter. Is this OK (using a higher sqft filter)? Will it restrict flow in any way? I've read on some FAQs that higher sqft will result in better filtration, but I'm still unsure if it's "bad for the pump" or something. I do see there's a closer Unicel filter (Unicel C-4637), which is 37sqft, but they're a little harder to come by. Thanks everyone! Jonathan
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