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  1. Today
  2. Cusser

    Circulation Pump or Other?

    Triple check for a leak, that might only happen once the water warms. Maybe your GFCI is doing its job correctly.
  3. nhantruong123

    Electric Ph Meters

    I recommend using HANNA HI98127 pH tester. This is a product that is highly appreciated by people for pH test requirements. HANNA HI98127 has the ability to measure with a range from -2 pH to 16 pH. It also has heat compensation to ensure stability for results. Designed with a compact size, waterproof and able to float, the device can measure pH in any environment Our company is currently distributing this product. Please contact Techmaster Electronics J.S.C to receive the preferential price.
  4. I had an issue a few months ago with my water heater. I replaced it recently with a new one, filled the hot tub up, and now my circulation pump is giving me issues. I unplug the circ. pump from the spa pack, reset the breaker and everything works fine. When i plug the circ. pump back into the spa pack the breaker trips and its not always a right away kinda thing. If the water is cold the circ pump will work right up to a little over 90 degress and then trips the GFI. I tested the pumps wires for ohms and Im getting fair readings. Ive also monitored its temperature and it does not go above the 140 degrees F max (plus it has thermal protection anyway). Any ideas or help would be very much appreciated!! I do not want to buy a new one! Thanks
  5. Yesterday
  6. Hello All, Purchased new Marquis Reward Hot Tub about 10 months ago. My tub is 350 gallon with dual pumps and filters and has the SpaFrog inline cartridge feature for mineral and bromine or chlorine. I use the grey chlorine with the blue mineral cartridge (not bromine). On initial setup I brought my home water sample to my dealer and they tested it and gave me a printout that they marked up with the chemical regiment to use. I don't have the actual measurements with me but I will swag at it for reference. I follow the amounts to maintain best effort against the Ease Test Strips and monthly sample check at the dealer. Anyway the weekly chemicals (all Spa Guard-the brand they distribute) I use per there direction is and in this order weekly: Enhanced Shock 1.5 TBS Chlorinating granules 1 TBS PH Increaser ~1-2 TSP as needed Calcium Hardness Increaser as needed Total Alkalinity as needed Stain Control 2 TBS Spa Enzyme 3 Oz. AquaFinesse 7 Oz. A different dealer at a recent home show asked me, "why are you putting all of those chemicals in if you have the Spa Frog inline with chlorine"? "You should only need the inline cartridges and monitor your PH, Alkalinity and Calcium. He also said he has never heard of anyone using chlorine AND the Aquafinesse salt solution. Ive never had a tub before and my dealer insists these are the chemicals i should be using. What should i be adding with the Chlorine Mineral in line SpaFrog? Why are they instructing me to use a Chlorine and the Aquafinesse together? Thanks FF
  7. al_novak

    Baking Soda Mistake

    You can use https://poolchemicalcalculator.com/Pool-pH-Calculator.html to help you factor what you need to balance your pH. You'll also want to balance your alkalinity, there is a tool for that there as well.
  8. Hi I have an older jacuzzi at least 10 years. It had a fl 1 code so I checked Google and it said it was a flow error and to clean filter. I pulled them out and the pro clean sanitizer came out leaking its little mineral pellets. Can these go into the plumbing? It looks like there is a small strainer that would catch them. I think the pro clean unlocked from the filter. TIA
  9. Jlocs

    Heater

    Hi can anyone tell y my so heater reads 140 degrees and I have set to 104! So my heater won’t turn on!
  10. Last week
  11. Update 2-17-2019 The problem never really went away, it keeps recurring, of course intermittently. Currently upper control panel display shows 34, pump cycles on for 1/2 a second, turns off, this keeps recurring. Actual temperature in tub is 114F ! I'll check possible cold solder joints as Brandon recommends. Something related to the overtemp sensor? Even if the temperature sensor is not operating correctly, why isn't the overtemp sensor preventing it from overheating? Thanks. Dan.
  12. I just replaced the heater relay board on my jet setter spa and I too am getting the flashing red light. Tested voltage to heater and showing zero, tested resistance and showing ~12 ohm. Green light next to red is solid green but may go out if I power cycle the spa. Thoughts?
  13. Cusser

    Filter pump

    I have a 1988 CalSpa and I routed the water path out of the cabinet to an external cartridge filter (and back) which makes stuff so much easier !!! The factory filter housing was difficult to remove the top housing due to clearance issues, and the giant plastic nut kept breaking (over $20) and I continually had leaks at the O-ring. So that has worked for me. I added shut off valves on both sides of that new filter. I have never thought about moving the pump externally; I did need to replace a "wet end" seal on it over a decade ago. On my CalSpa, the water path is pump-heater-pressure switch-filter.
  14. Windows20

    Filter pump

    Hi I have replaced the pump twice now on my intex hot tub.can I use a external pool filter and pump on the hot tub.
  15. I have a Catalina 7 person spa with a Balboa Cat-200-DCAJ #51677-05. I got this whole thing for free and it's been a pain in the neck ever since. The only problem I have had so far is that the heater element never shuts off. It will climb all the way to 110deg or more. I've tried setting the temp level down at 90 and it blows right by that. I have burnt up so many elements now. What could be the culprit?? One of the Temp sensors?? Also, if the spa pump shuts down, which for some reason it does on its own. Or if I put it on the Economy mode were the pumps run just a few times a day, that heater element stays on and burns itself up. I don't have the money to go out and buy a $1,400 replacement control box so I was hoping for some suggestions. P.S. I hate to admit that I have smaller gauge wires than what is listed for the tub. It calls for 6 gauge and I am running 10 gauge wires. But, I only have one working pump currently so I don't see the need for the expensive bigger gauge until I get the pump fixed. The reason I added this is to see if for some reason the smaller gauge would affect the mainboard in a way that would not shut off the heater element. I assume not but thought I would add it. Thanks and any help is much appreciated!!
  16. Yay! I think I finally got it. It took alot of PH decreaser to get in range , but I was starting with a TA of 230 in our source water. Also only took 2/3 of the amount of salt suggested to get the chlorine generator working in the right range. I took another 45 mile drive to the pool and spa store to have them test my water sample and all is good. Phosphates were 100, but that is way better than over 5000! I am happy at the moment that everything is in range. It is supposed to snow tomorrow, and I plan to sit in the tub and watch it snow.......fingers crossed!
  17. I'm a degreed chemist. Once the pH Decreaser dissolves, the acid-base reaction is very quick - less than seconds - IF THE WATER GETS MIXED. So turn on the circulation pump and/or jets, let it mix 10 minutes and it would be fine to test. If the chemical doesn't dissolve readily, manually agitate or stir like with a cheap broom with the circulation on. Rinse off the broom afterwards.
  18. If the water is cold, I would wait the 2-3 hours. Chemicals don’t always react quickly in cold water. I have a few customers that use almost 1lb of pH down on each fill due to high total Alkalinity. i have never experienced high pH after using a phosphate remover so I cannot be of help there.
  19. OK. Got a warmish day in the upper 40's. Drained and refilled the tub. Treated the cold water with phosphate remover. Water became very alkaline afterward - as in I treated it to reduce PH and total alkalinity twice before I could get it to even read on the high end of the test strip. I had a 20 ounce bottle of Brilliance PH Decreaser and have used 3/4 of it. The total alkalinity has come down to almost okay at 140, but the PH is still around 8.4 What gives? Is this normal? Our source water has a ph of 7.6 and a total alkalinity of 230, but those numbers went sky high after the phosphate remover was put in. I am so discouraged. I do not want to recreate the situation I had before where I had to dump the water because we couldn't get it balanced. It is normal to have to add a lot of chems to get the water in balance? I am in a rural community on a community well if that makes any difference. Also - my pool store says the wait 2-3 hours after adding PH decreasers to re-test the water. The bottle says circulate the water for 30 minutes and re-test. Whose directions do I follow? Why would waiting hours make a difference? Thanks for any insight. I just want to soak in my tub of clean warm water.......
  20. Turned out to be the circuit board
  21. Thank you for the quick response. Yes, verified jumpers. Still hoping someone has an old 72019 control panel laying around! Thanks again.
  22. When you replaced the control board, did you verify the correct jumpers for a 2 pump Tiger River? If you can't find the original control panel, you have 2 options. Best option is to have your dealer install the Eagle box retrofit. Other option is to have the dealer install a Hotspring control panel on the front of the spa. The same control box can be used, just a different control panel.
  23. Have already replaced the main control board, only one pump will come on. Pump wires swapped to verify both pumps good. Need a new 72019 Control Panel, or something that is compatible. Has anybody tried to repair on of the panels? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
  24. gman5150

    Hot Springs Spa Repair help needed

    Thanks for the help🙄
  25. Hot Spring Official

    Hot Springs Spa Repair help needed

    Did you install the correct OEM heater from Watkins? Did you install the pressure switch to the correct connector? You may have burned the pressure switch connector, and it will not heat. Have a technician install the new parts and confirm correct parts and connections.
  26. Hi Guys, Been learning a lot about how to care for our new tub from the forum, so thanks. But have a bit of a specific questions that i cant find any threads on so far, so here goes... We have a hydropool 670 self cleaning tub. I'm trying to figure out if there is a problem with the heater, or i just need to manage my expectations. We have tub set to 39.5oC. with about 4 of us using it, after say 40 mins. its down to 37oC, which doesnt feel very hot at all to be honest. Ambient temperature at the time here in Scotland is about 5oC. At first we thought it was a problem specific only to the pumps being on, but turns out the same happens even if we dont turn pumps on at all. Infact the other day i opened the lid, it dropped to 38 and didnt seem to recover even after an hour of sitting. Is this normal? When feeling the inlets in the tub when its trying to heat, none of the 3 feel particularly warm/warmer than the surrounding water. So yeah, just trying to see if anyone has similar experience or maybe this is just normal for hot tubs, but i feel like we went with a top of the range tub, and it should at least be able to hold a temp. Customer service has been particularly slow going back and forward and i'm starting to get a bit frustrated. Thanks in advance
  27. Hi all. I am a new member who has been browsing this site frequently and I finally felt the need to sign up. I just purchased as home late last summer that came with a Sundance Chelsee 780. I have absolutely no pool/spa/water management experience but my girlfriend made an appointment with our local Sundance dealer to set up our spa and get us on the right track (early November). Fast forward to now; we have used the spa twice and I cannot for the life of me get the chemical levels to be balanced. I slacked a little bit early on and could never really get it usable again. I frequently get my water tested due to my high PH and low TA but their step by step instructions end up doing nothing to make the spa usable. Today I got the pH down enough to chlorinate to around 3ppm but within just a few hours it was between 0 and 1. For several days now I have had white residue around the edges of the water. I want to keep the spa open and running but at the same time, I really feel like this whole thing is totally over my head and I should just throw in the towel. Any help or honest opinions would be appreciated- I totally understand that not everything is for everyone and if that's the case for me right now then so be it. Thanks!
  28. Earlier
  29. Sounds like you "threw parts at it" instead of troubleshooting. Call a repair service.
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