CanadianSpaTech

Please post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover if there is one. Need to see how the board and in particular how the circ pump is wired

How old are the filters and when was the last time you cleaned them? Remove filters and reset breaker. Remove them from the equation. Dirty filters are flow killers. If the OH returns after removing the filters... check for rhythmic tone changes...lol

Absolutely....not.. I don't even go to Mississauga...lol

My bad I missed in the post that it was a circ pump driven spa. The 2 I have done with discontinued topsides were both 2 speed pumps for heating.

Most can figure it out. I do not know if you can bypass the original topside by using that remote. @castletonia

390

A skid will work and a block under the skid if needed to level. A spa sitting on the skid will keep the spa flat and the underside supported. I would not suggest this as a long term solution. Skids are open and make a perfect spot for critters and leaves/debris. I use them during testing and the spas are usually only on them for a week or 4 while I make repairs before selling. It allows me to see under the spa for any signs of leaks. Most skids are made of soft wood and would degrade over time. My suggestion to you is to build a pressure treated 4x4 or 6x6 frame See video.. and block unde

Are there any error codes on the topside? Remove the filters until the issue is fixed. Take them out of the equation. If it trips again start disconnecting components one at a time...ozone, lights, secondary pump, then the heater until you can get the breaker to hold. Check all pumps for leaking seals that could be sucking the leaking water into the face of the motor causing a trip.

You are only out 3/4" if you can't live with it or the imbalance is starving the filter I would jack/lift the spa 1" and slide in a sheet of 1/2" finding the sweet spot that levels the spa but doesn't raise the rest of the spas edge off the ground. Ideally you have a flat and level base but if you have no other options this will work.

The foot well carries the most weight PSI and if the spa is not flat and properly supported...game over A wise man once said "flat is better than level"... You need support across the entire bottom/base. If one end is propped up along one edge and there is no support under say the foot well area you could crack the acrylic. We have had good success using rigid insulation board. It comes in 8' lengths and varying thickness.. 1/2", 3/4" 1".

Need to see photos of spa pack to confirm it is an Sclass pack before going further. Also post photo of the schematic on the inside cover of the pack if there is one. If you go to dynastypartsxperss.com and key in your serial number it will give you the spas original build sheet and all its components.

Have you looked inside the equipment area for a MFG tag? At this point it doesn't really matter what brand it is. The control system is made by Gecko (SCLASS) Spa pack and looks to be a K19 topside control. Pumps, Jets and most plumbing parts are likely made by Waterway. Attached is the Gecko Sclass manual for troubleshooting and programming information. Troubleshooting Manual Here: https://issuu.com/geckomkt/docs/sc_cf_ce_as_service_manual_en Quick Reference Card Here: https://issuu.com/geckomkt/docs/ink19_quick-reference-card_en/1?e=14165552/31973995

@Do not use Gecko What was the issue you were having perhaps I can help?

If you have to "upgrade" the electronics I would go with a Balboa VS bundle (pack topside light and pump wire if needed) way cheaper. Have done a couple. Would need to know number of pumps, if it has a circulation pump. It will be easier to fix in the future as well. $429... https://www.spadepot.com/Balboa-VS-Spa-Control-Kit-P3185

Check the fuses inside the spa pack. The rates you were quoted are very good.