CanadianSpaTech

Shhhh During the test in the video is it 110 wired to the low speed or high speed? or have you tried both? Looks like the shaft cleaned up nicely. Can you wire it back up in front of the spa for 240VAC and test it there to see if it just needs better power supply to start on it's own?

Gold stars all around. Good job @RDspaguy I'm proud of you.

Usually a single speed pump has 3 wires. The way that they are splitting it and using 4 wires I'm not sure I would want to try a 4 wire pump there.

I think I would try unhooking J11 and trying each pump one at a time in J12 and then again at J11 if tripping happens on J12 see what happens.

Sounds like a bad pressure switch

I would add a few cross stringers (4-6) for more support and put down a layer of 3/4 crushed gravel and then a layer of limestone on top of that. Is there a reason you didn't just level the existing pavers? Are you using pressure treated lumber?

Should not be a problem. Can you post a few photos of the circuit board so we can see the wiring. you might have to pull the board and look on the backside for darkened or burnt areas around the relays

Disconnect them all and work backwards. Try with J11 and 12 and both RED AC wires disconnected. reset the breaker and try pushing pump 1 low and high. If it holds pump 1 is good. Next power off then reconnect J 12 but leave the associated Red AC wire disconnected. Reset power then try pump 3 (or pump 4 the RED AC wire will be for one pump the J12 will be for the other but we have to start with the main "J" connector first) So if 3 or 4 comes on next try reconnecting the Red AC wire and see if you now have both 3 and 4 working. then keep going with the same tests on J11 and it's red AC wire. If it trips at any point disconnect the last step and move forward to the next connector. We are trying to test each pump individually but it's hard with this system and having 2 pumps splitting the same J connector.

Try disconnect J11 from the board (pumps 2 and 5) and also the wire that is connected going to RED AC bottom left on the board then try it see if breaker holds. If it trips do the same with the 3/4 pump connection at J12 along with the wire going to Red AC and see if it holds. If it holds then reattach J12 but not the red ac wire and try breaker. If it holds do the same with J11 leaving the red ac disconnected. If it holds then try reattaching the red ac one at a time trying the breaker each time. If you have ozone or the mister disconnect them one at a time first and try the breaker. Let us know results

and you never know until you try. Just the way it is. Just loosen the pump union enough to let the water in the wet end to drain and if it still keeps running out after a minute or 2 you might have to drain the spa. Some pumps will have a 3/8" line attached to the face of the pump and will not be affected by the slice valves in which case you have to pull the line off and quickly plug it or water will just keep running out.

If it is full, up to temp and running with no signs of water around the base anywhere and the cover is light and easy to lift then it should be good. Get them to open the front panel and have a look inside for any signs of previous leaks as well.

and does pump 2 work?...and the incoming wiring where the main power wires connect to the circuit board still bothers me did you redo the wiring there?

I would say the pack and topside have been retrofitted in 2016 and likely cost more than the $500 alone so if you can get it for that then you would be doing alright. Pretty basic spa but as long as it meets your needs and budget then go for it. You could probably find a pretty nice used spa for the 4K budget you mentioned.

Looking at the heater in the last photo I'm not surprised you have no heat. Disconnect the heater from the board..do you have 240VAC coming off the board?

You can run 110V just move the hot lead for low or/then high. I just use a grinder to knock the rust off and to lower the high points then spray it with rust paint when done. I will use the brass thread from the old impeller to protect the threads while cleaning it up. I use just a little silicone sealant on the bottom half of the seal that goes into the wet end housing it's self as an extra layer of protection. Bearing should be ok if spins freely and the impeller shaft splitting was the root cause but if there is a lot of rust in that area then it should be a 6203 bearing...I use the old bearing on top of the new one and a 2" or 3" long 1" round hard plastic Sched 40 tube/fitting or even a long/deep socket when hammering it back on in to place. Slinger piece...not sure what you are describing here