CanadianSpaTech

Is it shorting out on/against the metal pack housing?

Try and Call them and tell them what you are working with and trying to do: https://hottubpartsofamerica.com/search.php?search_query=relays He also has lots of how to videos some on relays

The relay top right (K6) looks burnt and can see soot on the board. Remove the circuit board and look on back for darkened or flash burn marks at that relay. Relays are fairly cheap and can be DIY replaced.. if you have soldering knowledge and the correct tools. Those are open relays and they may be available but are used on older boards. Newer boards have a closed relay and if I was taking your board to my local electronics repair guy I would have him replace ALL the relays on the board with a closed type relay. It is an old board and relays wear out over time. Open relays are just that open and prone to dust and debris. If you are going to swap out the circuit board it may be cheaper to replace the entire system with a completely new Balboa or Gecko system depending on the cost and availability of the replacement board. I would repair the board for a fraction of the cost of new... But I have a guy. Where are you located?

First remove filters and run without during testing. Take them out of the equation. Next power off remove the panel on the pack that has 6 screws. Disconnect the wires powering the heater on the lower left. Make sure the wires can't touch anything or tape them and give it a try. If it runs replace the heater assembly. If it trips then you are on to the next step and that's the main pump. Reconnect the heater and disconnect pump #1 and try. If it still trips reconnect pump #1 and onto the circ pump. The Laing circ pumps are not service friendly and have a high fail rate due to the amount of 24/7 running time it gets. You can remove the circ and remove the back cover to look for signs of damage like rusted wiring or burnt areas. Remove the face of the pump and you will see the impeller. Give it a spin to see how it rotates and inspect the tiny bearings. It is a magnetic drive and can sometimes have intermittent operation as bearings wear or there is calcium/scale build up. 98% of the time it is replacement if a Laing circ has issues. Finding them can be hit/miss. Made in Hungary and supply chain issues can/do happen. Overheating unlikely.. Bad breaker... anything possible... Open breaker panel and inspect wiring and make sure (power off) that wires are tight as they can loosen over time and if they get loose enough you can get arcing. As mentioned with the Laing circ pumps you can get intermittent operation as they begin to fail. Lastly if everything seems to work as it should and you are still tripping there could be issue on the circuit board itself. Remove the pack and open the back so you can see the back of the circuit board and look for burn marks or darkened areas. Let us know results.

@RC-COLORADO Have one I am working on now with similar issues. The Jacuzzi pack was a 1-2 year only pack with a special DSMT connector (see below) to the side of the pack. Tried to splice one in that I had on the truck but came out with a similar result. Had to order the exact part. At this point I have just connected the new one to the pack and hung it over the side of the spa into the water and have not installed it permanently. Seemed to be working without error. Going to let it run for the weekend and see if it runs. https://spaandpoolstore.com/6600-181-j-400-lcd-temperature-sensor-2010/

Ozone wall fitting. The only one I can find as an close match is discontinued: https://www.thespaworks.com/parts/vita-spa-parts/vita-spa-jets/vita-spa-ozone-wall-fitting-34-inch-barb-black You will need to measure the hole size. There are newer parts but the face and hole size will need to be checked. https://www.spadepot.com/Ozone-Wall-Fitting-Jet-34-Barb-P10153C221.aspx Something like this might work as well. Might have to add a barb fitting to it... https://bullfrogspapartscharlottesville.com/10-2565-Ozone-HO-Bulkhead-Body-3-4-Charcoal-2009-2012-p7655510

How did you join the new sensor to the circuit board? Did you attach it directly to the connector that plugs onto the board or did you splice the old and new wires together? OHMs test the 2 sensors and make sure they are in range of each other. One is old one is new and if they are not within spec you might have issue.

What's under the rubber pump base/foot wood or plastic? If plastic maybe add a piece of wood under the rubber pump base/foot. If it's directly on the plastic it might pick up and amplify the vibration.

All main pumps will have noise and a "tone". They are all pretty much the same for sound. Not much you can do about that and I don't think you would lessen the sound much by replacing it with a newer pump unless the original pump has bearing issues and at 10 years that is a real possibility. In this case you can rebuild or replace. In your case it is the tone and vibration you need to work on. The current rubber shim under the motor can be upgraded to a thicker rubber pad and still have the pump line up with where it needs to be. I would also add a rubber grommet on the top of the foot and then a stainless washer the use a bolt to screw it down. I would have the pump running when I tighten the bolt and listen to the tone as I tighten. Sometimes not a full tighten on the bolt might have a more acceptable "tone" than a fully tightened bolt. If you get that done and still get an annoying hum and you have made sure there are no other areas inside the cabinet where a vibration exists then you may want to place the spa on horse mats to help dampen the hum.

OK so valve in the first photo? $250 is not out of line... and easy.. lol. There can be a bit of difficulty for a newb (sorry) in getting everything to not only line back up but sit flush to the heater manifold. Any time you cut plumbing you end up 1.5"-2" shorter and the missing 2" has to be replaced. A 2" coupler and a piece of 2" line would be needed and as mentioned experience helps to get everything to line back up properly and once glue is applied you only get on shot and the glue I use sets FAST 1-3 seconds and your done. Yes you could apply a dab of 2 part plastic weld epoxy to lock the gate in the up position and be good. Wouldn't take much just enough to bond/join the knife/gate to the pump union coupler on the inside and keep it in the up position. If it ever fails and leaks then spend the $250.

Test and verify the f4 fuse. Not sure I'd spend much on it.

You have 2 phone jack connections one for the control panel and one just left of it. Can't see what it is for. If there is a second "remote" controller try and disconnect it so just the main panel connected

Bummer. If you want to DIY it post a few photos of what's on the other side of the valve all the way back to rigid plumbing. Parts and everything needed would be well under a hundred. Difficulty 4/10

@Annie Najar Need to verify is they put the correct parts in. He should have seen/smelled it before swapping out the circ pump. So it would seem that it happened after parts were installed. Was it wired for a 240V circ and a 120V was installed or vice versa? Post photos of circuit board so we can see the damage and where on the board it is located.

Looks correct