CanadianSpaTech

Where are you hooking the hose to? are you placing it down the filter hole or to a drain fitting located just before the heater tube? When the pump related to the heater is running is there suction at the filter hole?

Sounds like the impeller is getting hung up or a weak start cap. At the back of the motor you should see a small opening where the shaft of the motor sits. It will have a slot in it where you can place a flat head screwdriver in it and when it is humming try and give the shaft a helping spin and see if it starts running. Reasons: Could be a weak start capacitor in the motor or the impeller shaft could be getting hung up in the seal. I am working on the same thing right now and once the shaft is helped to spin it might run for an hour or a few days. Going with a new replacement. As weather get sub zero I don't want to have to have it crap out on my customer mid Winter and it's -20.

I just replace. If it has a waterfall connected to the circ line watch it for intermittent flow. I have a job today where you can see the waterfall start and stop every so often (not a Hydropool... Clearwater Spa). The circ is running long enough for the heater to fully engage and then it might run for a couple of hours or a couple of minutes. I was lucky enough to have the customer see this happen while on the phone. The Laing pumps are a magnetic drive and notorious for start and stop operation as they wear out. There could be debris at the impeller and will check that first but I will likely just replace it with new in the end. If you can get the circ out and remove the front faceplate power the spa back up and visually see the impeller and how it is working.

Should be Should no idea

@Jus Hi limit goes under the bolt on cover. The temp sensor goes to a fitting on the side wall of the spa and gets pushed all the way into the fitting so the sensor touches the front of the sensor housing. Once pushed all the way into the fitting cover the back with tape where the wire is sticking out so it won't pick up the ambient temp inside the cabinet. See this link below. The fitting is at the bottom of the photo. You should see it on the side wall of the spa in the bather area. Let us know results https://pool-spa-supplies.com/a-united-spas-ctt7-control-pack-heater-on-top-back-of-unit-w-heater-topside-panel-cords-ctt7-16118?srsltid=AfmBOopp4qmWbmzEhEL6ofTsg2UqTzxxTDLae0RvJzYJACrEcwgKZXOO

Not sure if this helps: https://www.unitedspacontrols.com/PDF/T7UsersGuide.pdf

?..I assume you meant DR. So something up stream from that entry point?... Stuck one way check valve? Blockage at the face of the filter related pup/circ. Check face of pump for debris blocking impeller from moving water.

@HotTubber Always found it a little F'd up that all the debris goes through the pump before getting filtered. It is a pressurized system so make sure all the jets are open especially seat #5 and question the customer and ask if they are closing some of them. I am not sure if there is a one way check valve in the system that could get sticky and restrict flow from time to time. Make sure the filter housing assembly lock ring is tight and the bleeder valve as well and not allowing air pockets into the system. Check the leaf basket (#2) for debris. It often gets overlooked. Check the front of the filter related pump/circ for debris.

https://geckoalliance.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/9919-101313-D_Troubleshooting_Guide_YSERIES_XE_EN_REV_15_07_2023.pdf

Did you? You could have a stuck heater relay on the board. To test you will need a multi meter and basic knowledge of how to use to test for ac power. If you don't know call for help. Electricity can kill so know your limit. Test: Cool water down to say 100 degrees. Once at 100 degrees put set temp down 5 degrees to 95. Does heat light indicator go off? Yes: test for 240V at the 2 heater connections. Do you get 240V with the heat indicator light off? If yes stuck heater relay. If no: raise set temp above 100 an test for 240V when heat indicator light is solid and no longer flickering. Do you get 240V? If no when temp is set down 5 degrees and Yes when it is above 100 and light is solid then it is working properly. Again check filter cycle duration.

Should be no glue. Remove the black dry wall screws at the base (backside will be harder). Remove the screw holding the plumbing into the blower and you should be able to work it out of there. Yes there could be a failed one way check valve letting water back into the blower. When you get it out check for water inside. Some will have a Hartford loop in line but if the water level in the spa gets to high it can overcome the loop.

Post photos of the new board installed and of the schematic that goes with it.EL2000 55065-01_97_A.pdf Verify all below There is Possibly a "Dry" (dr) Heater. Check for Water Level, Flow Restrictions, Closed Valves, Air Bubbles, and Pump Prime, or contact your Dealer or Service Organization. Check for All of the following Conditions: Low Water Level. Blocked Suction Fitting. Blocked Skimmer. Dirty Filter. Too Many Closed Jets. Closed Slice Valve. Heat Related Pump Not Running. Heat Related Pump Not Primed. Download the Balboa hot sheet PDF for the el2000 and verify all the dip switches are set correctly

You will either need to find an adapter to go from a J and J mini to an amp style connection or cut that plug off and rewire it to an amp pin style connector. I'm guessing the pack was swapped out at come point? If it has a circ pump it has to be the same voltage as the clear ray and wired as such on the board. Post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover You need something like this bit the female end has to match your existing male end as they are not all the same configuration: https://www.hottuboutpost.com/mini-jj-to-amp-cord-adapter-cable-bdlamptojj/

White to black 120, white to red 120, red to black 240? Test power off the board in each speed if 2 speed pump with pump disconnected. In one speed you will get power white to red and in the other speed white to black or visa veras depending on what wire is high and what wire is low. Do you get correct power going to the pump? If you do it is a pump issue. You installed a new pump are you sure it is wired correct? If you don't get correct power off the board in each speed you might have a bad relay on the board. Post photos of the board and the schematic on the inside cover so we can see what you have. Post photos of the white sticker on the pump motor and of how it is wired up

Might find something relevant here: https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/53019-sundance-780-chelsee-no-display/