CanadianSpaTech

An element that is covered in scale will also cause the spa to heat very very slowly and will have trouble getting the water up to temp

Again if you have 240V to the element then it should heat. Test the 2 heater element legs for continuity and a bad element.

When FLC is showing remove 1 wire going to the pressure switch does flc go to flo? Gecko Tech support is often very helpful: 1 800 784 3256

Ensure the circ or heating/filtering related pump is running and has good flow. Check the flow switch housing and ensure that the toggle is pushed up against the post and making contact. Sometimes holding a flashlight behind the housing will make it easier to see. If it is making contact with the post but you have the flo error still then try and jumper the 2 flow switch wires together and bypass the switch. I recommend disconnecting the heater to do this test so if there is a flow related issue the heater does not engage and quickly overheat/melt down. The flow switch protects the heater from firing when there is not enough flow. If you jump the wires and the flo goes away replace flow switch.

ODD... Heat light on and you get 240V to the copper tabs then it should be heating or the GFCI should be tripping. Try Test button on the GFCI and make sure it is working correctly.. Did you ohm test the element?

Most common trip cause is the heater element. Disconnect the heater from the board and see if it holds. If it still trips disconnect each component one at a time until it holds (pumps, Ozone). Post pics of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover so we can see what you have and how it is wired

Test the 2 green buss fuses that say SC25 or SC 30 on them. Does the heating/filtering related pump run in low or the circ pump if it has one? Test the incoming power and make sure you have 240V red to black and did not lose a leg in the gfci when it took the hit.

Did you install the new flow switch in the right direction? When the circ is running the toggle in the flow switch should get pushed up against the post making a connection. Verify that it is making the connection. if it is making the connection but you still have a flo error you could try to jumper the flow switch but you will need to verify that the circ is flowing water.. or disconnect the heater from the board for testing so if the heater engages and there is a flow issue it won't go nuclear (only takes a split second to get really hot). I recommend disconnecting the heater for testing. Is the new circ the same voltage as the original? (120V or 240V) Next I would be looking at and testing the sensors. See page 55 below for resistance chart You might find help here: http://jacuzzipartners.com/knowledgelibrary/assets/pdf/681.pdf

@ydragos Please start your own post and describe your issue and post pics of the circuit board and schematic on inside cover

yes

Sure or a skid might work. Jack stands are also used in some cases.

See page 32 here for both the blue snubber(Varistor) and the terminal block: https://www.guillens.com/images/JAC/Pdf/JPS/2014-1 Parts Catalog.pdf

@Spa Board Doctor

Couple of pics of what you have might help us with recommendations. Is it wood and if so how thick is it? There are all kinds of portable "Bubblers" made for bathtubs and such. What are your expectations? If you just want the water to move you could even just place a drain pump without the garden hose attached in the foot well and it will move water. Whatever you decide make sure it is GFCI protected.

no I think board is likely still good. I would be going back over all the wiring connections. Where do you have the white wire coming back from the spa and into the GFCI? It must go into the GFCI itself and then the pigtail goes to the Neutral bar or it will trip. Could also be a bad ground somewhere. Dip switch setting should not matter with a tripping GFCI and can be sorted out once you get the breaker to hold. No Problem. I'm just West of Milton. You can PM phone number if you need to speak directly.