BulletProofer

Looking back at my post, I was not clear, Id like to fill it with water and test it to find the leak, if supported on all four corners and in the center would 6x6's work? like 3 6x6x8 running perpendicular to the treated 2x4s underneath that make ground contact Is that enough support with the weight of the water? cinder blocks at each corner and in several spots in the middle to distribute load? the tub is in great shape so id like to avoid destroying it.

Hello, I have a tiger river spa, that i have previously repaired and have 6 months later sprung a leak, i cannot see the leak with the side cover off, is it possible to fill the hot tub on say 6x6 lumber or cinder blocks to supported in several spots To get the tub a foot or two in the air to shine a light and or take pictures with a phone? Any suggestions or why or why not, safety is first priority but if i can see the leak it would definitely help i have a loader to lift the tub making the repair easy, Appreciate your knowledge and ideas

Hello everyone, Watkins Bengal Model M Serial M1D1312 First time Poster and first time hot tub owner, Just picked up a free spa It needs some work But the tub cover and outside look great for the year, it must of been in some sort of shelter. I have powered up the spa for a couple seconds to see the circ pump turn on board light up and the turned jet pump on for 1 second to see where Im at with the electronics before investing time in the leak repair. Everything seems to work fine. I did not get a meter on the heater to test as I did not want to run it dry for long. (Spa was on for 3-4 seconds) the tub was not winterized and the gentleman I picked it up from stated he already found the leak and removed the foam and cut out the Check valve. Im looking for a plumbing diagram for this tub to better help understand where all pipes run and what they are used for, Also to help identify possibly leak areas in the future before having to remove foam. I am Also looking for a wiring diagram for this spa as I will be converting to 220. My thought is to fix the already found leak, Fill the tub turn it on, Monitor for other leaks (I am already assuming the worst) and make sure all electronics work. once spa is tested and working correctly put it in its permanent spot. (currently its in my shop) Is there a way to test the heater while the tub is dry? The Tee is 2" ID and 2.25 OD with a 1 inch ID and a 1/4 inch barb the Barb looks like it might have been drilled and cemented. Is there a direct off the shelf part for this tee with barb? or do I have to make my own. Im having trouble locating the part. Is this the correct check valve? https://backyardplus.com/parts/71980-water-check-valve-1-1-2-inside-diameter-2in-outside-diamter/ the broken check valve is 2.25 ID on the Tee side and 2 inch ID on the opposite. the tee is cemented directly into the check valve. Can the Flexible PVC be cemented with regular purple primer and PVC glue? If not what do you suggest? it looks like the manufacturer used some sort of cement I am not familiar with using with PVC Any tricks, Tips or suggestions with diagnosing and repair you guys have would be greatly appreciated. As this is my first time working on one. Any pictures or information you need I will be glad to post. Thanks everyone picsofspa.zip