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Here is what we recommend to do after completing a plumbing colonoscopy or purge process. Be sure to wipe off any sticky clinging gooey gunk that has come out during the purge. Wipe this as you see it. Do NOT let this stuff dry on the shell or acrylic. Biofilm is primarily a polysaccharide, which is comprised of sugar molecules. So, sticky sticky sticky. A wet towel does a great job. After draining as much water as you can, just wipe the entire inside shell clean. Refill! One note here. When refilling be sure to add water into the filter well (where the filter(s) is (are) located to b

Thank you for the callout on this particular user. In the future, please report their posts and a moderator or admin will take care of the spam posts and spam account as soon as possible.

UPDATE: A little over a year later. We purchased this spa and have been very pleased with it. It is outdoors in N. GA year round, and runs and looks great. Very happy with this spa.

You're a genius! I changed it to the two and now it is behaving properly.. it must have just been in the filter cycle part of the program so it would run no matter what! thank you! thank you! thank you!

Hi All, To close the loop on this, all 4 of the pumps had an issue that was causing the GFCI to trip when activated (as unlikely as that seemed at the outset). The first pump I pulled had the corroded capacitor that I sent the picture of above. Each of the next 3 pumps I pulled, the centrifugal switch was stuck so when started the start windings were staying energized even after the pumps got up to speed. I sprayed them with WD40 and worked them loose. I also cleaned up the motor shafts but for the most part all of the seals, bearings and impellers looked fine. I put all of the p

2015 Marino. It's worth what your local market will allow. It was probably $6,000 - $7,000 new, depending on what your local dealer sells for. If everything is in good condition and it doesn't need a new cover or any service, I would probably be asking $3,000 and negotiate from there.

I believe most stain & scale products contain phosphates as do some filter cleaners. I just refilled my hot tub last week and my tap water had phosphates around 800 ppb. I use Natural Chemistry's phosphate remover which is identical to the SpaGuard one and then I use Natural Chemistry Cleanse Weekly to keep the phosphates down. FYI, I sell hot tubs. When I sell a saltwater hot tub, or a hot tub using the @ease system by Frog, then I care about phosphates because they higher they are the less effective both systems are. If you don't have either system, or care about using the least amo

That's not old. It has digital controls, if I'm not mistaken. I am picking up a really old 3 seater with the brown hardwired non-digital pack next week. This thing has the old rectangular heater with the square-flange element, and a regular yard spotlight dangling from the box by a piece of conduit for the light. Huge 8" light lense epoxied to the shell. It's a flashback to my early years for sure. Been inside the whole time, and well maintained. Cabinet and shell look practically new, no water damage even in the equipment bay. Good cover and old school wood folding stand. I have never seen a

Your video is unavailable. Check voltage to the pump at the pump connections, from j14 to high and low. You should have 120v or so. If you do not, there is a problem with the circuit board or main power supply. The heater has nothing to do with the voltage drop. You can't drop voltage on a parallel circuit, and your heater is in parallel to your pump while both are in series with their individual relays and the breaker. If your voltage drops to only the pump it's something in series on the pump circuit, such as a failing relay. If it only drops on low it is almost certainly the low s

The white (common) wire to your pump 1 plug goes back to the neutral connection on the board, which means you have 120v going to your 240v pump motor. That will need to connect to the L2 phase I think, or you need a 120v pump. Also, check your pump wiring. White is common, red is high, black is low according to the diagram. On the board just to the right of the main power connection there appears to be some discoloration and a browned sticker. Also 2 discolored relays. Is that heat damage or a reflection in the pic?

@RDspaguy I finally got and answer out of hot springs Uk on this . The heater is the 1.5kw 50htz, 250v model made in 2005. Im going to purchase a new heater and both sensors just to be safe . Ill let you how I get on . Many Thanks

You just make me dizzy 😵

Oh No! we certainly don't want people to understand basic water chemistry! If they did a lot of the hype and misinformation by the chemical manufacturers would be exposed! Anyone care to by some very expensive baking soda to raise your total alkalinity? We can justify the high price by calling it by an alternate name, sodium hydrogen carbonate instead of sodium bicarbonate to try and make you think they are not the same! " Sodium bicarbonate (IUPAC name: sodium hydrogen carbonate), commonly known as baking soda (especially in North America and New Zealand) or bicarbonate of soda, is a che

I think some motors aren't worth rebuilding...🥺

Nice way to get around legislation. "Dead Sea Salt" has a very high bromide content!! It will still be a bromine tub! https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s12517-016-2431-9

I also just looked at your pic and between the capacity and the frequency I see 165VAC, so your original is "130-154 µF 165VAC 60Hz", the cap in the link I posted is fine, or almost anything else that you find that meets or exceeds these specs.

so final update (i hope) on the motor(s). so we rather enjoyed the hot tub the other night. sadly i turned it off knowing that it wouldn't turn on without help which i tried after i turned it off and of course was the case. so next day, me being me, I decide to pull the motor out again. Just to be 100% sure, I found a neighbor who has a capacitor tester (i'll get one but needed one now). All THREE capacitor's tested fine and within spec. So I regret I didn't take pictures of this but will try to describe this. So the start capacitor's job is to give a jolt to the motor

Pretty sure those are used as hand-grips to help move yourself into position.

got it

Perhaps but what can and will happen is that water will sit in the lines of the unused pumps and go stagnant without flow. Disinfecting chemicals will not get into those unused lines and that can be unhealthy. One step at a time. Get your new pump and do your testing but the goal is to have everything working. Go 60 amp as well.

Well @RDspaguy Glad you asked. Yes in fact it is...not sure I used it correctly but it actually is Ha Ha you've been Snubbered...mic drop...picks up gold stars and leaves

Man there are burnt marks all the way over to below the fuses holder...That thing must have exploded shooting flames and smoke and stuff. Lot of black on the underside of the red wire I would check it for melted sheathing and exposed wire...just to be safe

Not from the circuit board. There is a snubber to the left of the red wire in your photo. One side wire of the snubber goes into the red wires and one side wire of the snubber goes to the black Think you can find a photo of a Jacuzzi pack on the internet... Example here at 0.02 you will see it (different pack same idea) Here: (it's the blue thingy)

What amp rating is the breaker? Is the heater and pump 1 on when you try the other pumps? You are describing 4 pumps that each draw 10 amps, so 40 amps with just the pumps on. Add in 3.5 for low speed pump 1 and 24 on the heater and you have 67.5 amps. Your diagram shows 40 amp max, so your spa cannot possibly work as shown. Even if it turns off the heater and pump 1 if the jets are on, you will still trip a 40 amp breaker. I would recommend you contact the manufacturer for wiring specs.

I frequently drain an older tub, or use some winter plugs and get wet. I don't trust old slice valves. The gate inside the valve can stick when you close it and you just pull out the handle when you try to open it. Then you have another repair that you do have to drain for. And not all slice valves are bolt-together like @Cusser, so then you're cutting and replumbing too.

Buy the same one you have, Gecko fmcp 1hp 115v. And fix whatever is leaking on it. You might even get away with just buying the motor, the wet end doesn't look too bad, but you will want a new shaft seal while you have it apart. It probably does have a capacitor, but I wouldn't bother trying to fix that mess. That's opening a whole can of worms that will likely end with you buying a new pump anyway after wasting time and money. Just my opinion from 25 years of fixing them.

I have used such leak seal chemical for about 10 years myself on my 32-year-old CalSpa. I also cannot find the leak, suspect it's on the side 8: from the home's block wall. I use once or twice a year, follow directions. There a few brands available. https://www.google.com/search?sxsrf=ALeKk01Pg-_n3Y6YrK4KqXW3Vf6sLHtwrQ%3A1603150197678&source=hp&ei=dSGOX-fMJYiQsAW_3bLwBg&q=spa+leak+sealer&oq=spa+leak+&gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYWIQARgBMgUIABDJAzICCAAyAggAMgIIADICCAAyAggAMgIIADICCAAyAggAOgQIIxAnOgUIABCRAjoECAAQQzoFCAAQsQM6CAgAELEDEIMBOgsILhCxAxDHARCjAjoOCC4QsQMQgwEQxwEQowI6BAguECc6B

There are two RJ45 ports on the main board to plug your topside controller into, perhaps try the other one? If that's no good turn off the power unplug the topside and plug in the power. I think you should get the usual startup sequence. 5 min priming followed by the pump running to check the temp. You could use a multimeter on the topside and/or RJ45 ports too to check for shorts.

It's not a code, it's everything in the topside turned on. This can be caused by a short in the topside controller or connection, or a faulty board. The system should run automated functions with the topside disconnected.

You can use the exhaust port on a shop vac to blow out the pipes. Close the valves once bubbles are coming up out of the main drain before you turn off the vac, then plug the valve with a winter plug for backup. You'll need 2 in the pump suction valve unless you are plugging your skimmers too.

@RDspaguy

Very Little. A day, A week, A Month? What is quickly What testing method are you using...Test strips, drops? When was the last time you cleaned the cell? Do you use a stain and scale remover What is your water source? Well or tap. Do you fill with softened water? What range are you in? are you between 100 and 120 PPM? http://www.inclear.ca/incleartroubleshooting not much info here on ph troubleshooting but there is a link to the manual and might be good to browse through.

Post pictures. I don't know if you have clearance, but a big oil filter channelock type wrench or Vise-Grips LC-12 have helped me a lot !

Hi! Thank you for replying. Sorry I'm so long in getting back to this. Swamped at work. We did check those, thank you. You are correct about the circuit board. After testing everything else under the cover (and under the sun), it turned out to be a bad mother board. We went ahead and replaced the whole control box yesterday, which comes with the heater relay board also and was a little more expensive, but the clips on ours had broken some time ago, and this way it's all new. We kept the old control box for good spare parts. We did the repair ourselves. It was relatively simple after watch

It's an oldie, 2000 Grandee.

Well, I havent used bromine in decades, and when I did I was taught to use non-chlorine shock (mps). That may well be one of the reasons I stopped using bromine. I am not a fan of mps with other systems either. So I would say use chlorine, but can't say how much. Maybe our bromine fans @Cusser and @dllenocan offer some advice.

1) That is EXACTLY what you should do. Tablet floaters are the second worst thing you can do to your spa. 2) Don't care. Wouldn't recommend either, but I am a fan of silver ion purifiers such as spa frog and nature2. I just wouldn't use the floater.

CanadianSpaTech, I would like to apologize for my comments in my previous post. That you took the time to reach out on my post, is much appreciated. Had the sensors not cured my problem I would still be looking for your help. I have edited my previous post and removed the uncalled for and unjust comments. In the future I will be the one to read post more closely and respond in a more appropriate manner. Again, I hope you will accept my appology. Sincerely Mitch Forry

Found a more clear schematic online. Looks like the transformer connects to J12.

You just have to make sure the new is rated at or above this one, your tub is probably 220v right? So 140-154 micro farad, 220v (or anything higher). This one can do 330V, 5 bucks. https://www.suppliesdepot.com/buy/product/130-158-MFD-330V-START-CAPACITOR/121536?ID=/Heating-Cooling/Parts-By-Manufacturer/Goodman/Capacitors/dept-263 Looks like these are called "start" capacitors, go figure.

Do you think this capacitor might cause a ground fault 😂🤣

RDspaguy, Thank you for your help. That was what it needed. Temp is way more accurate and the tub seems to only run during the F1 and F2 cycles and maybe once other than that to keep the temp. Can't thank you enough. J

grr. impeller parts didn't come yet, should be here tomorrow. oh just btw. I talked to a guy who runs a hot tub store and does service. he told me that it's normal that 240v motors to not start up like that when wired to 120v. Which if you think about it makes sense, the start capacitor says right on it that it's 250v, so quite possible it won't charge up enough to kick the motor over when wired to 120v. i spent some time today constructing steps to the hot tub. i'll post back once i have the motors in.

HMM...Thought there would have been some damage behind the K8 heater relay. No idea what that area controls or does. I have a guy... when it comes to stuff like that. Backside of board LOOKS good IMO. If it's running good then fix the F2 error and carry on I guess. @ $0.59 order several snubbers...just in case

I would suspect it's an air control for some jet from your description, and the open pipe sucks air in, not water out.

Sorry buddy, not familiar with that salt system, and not a fan of any. Water balance is a combination of calcium hardness, ph, alkalinity, and temperature. What are your readings right now? Some systems require lower than normal ch and alk because the cell produces a very high ph/alk when generating chlorine, which leads to scale on the cell. I would check the salt system manufacturers recommendations.

Shhhh During the test in the video is it 110 wired to the low speed or high speed? or have you tried both? Looks like the shaft cleaned up nicely. Can you wire it back up in front of the spa for 240VAC and test it there to see if it just needs better power supply to start on it's own?

Pump 2 does work now. I did redo the wiring. I got in it last night for the first time in months. I can’t say thank you enough to you CanadianSpaTech and RDSpaguy for helping me get my hot tub fixed and back up and running. Thank you thank you 😊

Post a pic of the circuit board. Do you have a mutimeter? Set it to 20k ohms and test both sensors by removing them from board and testing at plug. They should be within a few hundred ohms of each other. Check if there is voltage to the heater immediately at power up. If so you need a heater relay board. The pump behavior is odd. You may be looking at a circuit board issue.