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  1. Happy birthday America! And me! Officially over the hill now at 51 (me, not America). Chillin', grillin', and blowin' **** up! Have a good one, and be safe!
    3 points
  2. First go-to is a magic eraser. If that doesn't work, try ascorbic acid (vitamin c tablets) or muriatic acid water (50/50), next try bleach water (1/2 cup/gallon). If those don't work let us know.
    3 points
  3. It's not corrosion, it's scale, aka hard water deposits, caused by calcium. In water, it is the result of high ph, and on surfaces the result of evaporation, which means a small leak. Acid will dissolve it, but can damage the heater element. If you have good flow through it, just watch your ph and let it go. If it's clogged, get a new one.
    3 points
  4. 3 points
  5. Are the jets in the lower half on a different pump than those in the upper half? If so, your likely looking at another air lock in the lower half. If the lower half are on a different pump, do you hear the pump start when you turn it on? If the pump does not hum or try to start, you have other mechanical issues that other are better suited to help you with. The only other thing that comes to mind is if you have a diverter valve and it is set incorrectly (to top only). Not familiar with your tub so I am only guessing.
    3 points
  6. If you try this: Don't mix, danger !!!! One at a time, rinse in between.
    2 points
  7. it worked!! One jet near the filter was turned off. Once I opened it, it started to drain. Thanks so much! Wish I could buy you a drink!
    2 points
  8. There are wood hot tubs, and there are wood burning heaters. I've worked on a few wood tubs, some were still slats, and they leak if they dry out but seal up once the wood swells, and one with a liner. I've only seen wood burning heaters on tv and in ads. You must use chemicals in any hot tub. Which you use can vary, but they all need sanitizer and ph adjusters. I have no idea how they maintain a wood burning spa.
    2 points
  9. You are posting in a thread that is well over a year old. The previous post indicates that he did fix his tub. This thread is now closed.
    2 points
  10. 1. Extension cords are discouraged because they are usually not 12awg, but 16 or 18, and can't carry the load. A #12 cord will be fine, but it would be cheaper to run a little conduit and put in a plug nearer the location. 2. Technically, spa water is stagnant in fresh water terms. You want circulation for filtration and chemical dispersion, and a pond pump will only move around the tub water, leaving the pipes free to grow nasties. It's better than nothing, but not a replacement for running the spa. 3. Since it will be off when you aren't there, I'd say often. 4. 0-3 degrees per hour, depending on ambient temp. What mountains? Freezing is a big concern in your situation.
    2 points
  11. Manuals are more general users manuals than anything else. finding the manual usually won't help you fix the tub. Post up a description of your issues and pictures of the spa pack internals, the wiring diagram usually found on the inside cover and of the equipment in the tub and we should be able to help you.
    2 points
  12. There is very little information in a user manual. The topside looks to be a Balboa 51247 also known as a VL701S. Quick Start Card for VL701S: https://balboadirect.com/images/docs/topside/40790_D.pdf https://spacare.com/51247BalboaSerialStandardDigitalSpaSide.aspx
    2 points
  13. depending on the vac head, the wheels/axels do wear causing the vac head to run closer to the floor than when brand new.
    2 points
  14. The Freshwater III Ozone system produces a higher output of ozone (more ppm), it's also built to handle a 3+ year lifespan running continuously with your jetsetter's circulation pump. Many aftermarket ozonators have a lower ozone output and built to work with the standard mid-grade hot tub which runs the ozonator twice a day for an hour or two with the filter cycle (NOT running 24/7). So they have a shorter lifespan in hour count, but since it's only running for 2-4 hours a day, it lasts a while. Yes there are cheaper ozonators on the market, but they will likely burn out in half the time so are you really saving all that much? If it were me, I would spend the money on the Freshwater III system but I'm also a huge fan of ozonators in a hot tub - because ozone burns off organic contaminants through oxidation and is such a strong oxidizer that it reacts with excess free chlorine. This means you can chlorine shock after use and not have to soak in bleach the next day, because the ozone will burn off the chloramines and most of the chlorine overnight. Also note - I believe the Freshwater III ozone kit includes a replacement mazzei injector valve (the item which actually sucks the air and ozone into the water as it passes through the injector part) - be sure to replace that part even if yours looks perfectly fine - they are known to leak over time so they should be replaced at the same time as the ozonator module itself.
    2 points
  15. It's working!!! Installed the new fuse, turned the breakers on and we're in business. Now the fun of water chemistry begins....
    2 points
  16. sorry for the old bump but I hate when you google problems like this and the OP never comes back! Everything is perfect after changing the topside master spa panel. confirmed it CAN cause the intermittent odd behavior I was experiencing. Thank you
    2 points
  17. You need a 2 speed 230V pump. It should be close to the amp draw of your existing pump. This one should work. https://lesliespool.com/century-flex-48-48y-thru-bolt-2-or-0.25-hp-dual-speed-above-ground-pool/367389.html
    2 points
  18. Video unavailable. Sounds like you need a pump rebuild. Impeller, Shaft Seal, face plate o-ring and front bearing. If the face plate of the pump is dripping at the screws it may have been frozen at some point and may be deformed as a result. If you are not DIY handy you might consider complete replacement. If you want recommendations for a pump post pics of the white tag on the motor as well as the complete pump where we can see the wet end of the pump and it's plumbing connections.
    1 point
  19. If you build in the spa with access panels no more then half way up the spa so you can sit on the edge of the spa and swings your legs in.. fine. If you build in the spa right up to the acrylic so it's almost flush with the deck you WILL hate it and any service work will likely have to be performed from underneath. How will you get in?...get down on your hands and knees in the snow and crawl in. It's a long way down from standing. No fun in the winter or anytime. Don't Do It!
    1 point
  20. Rubber seals can dry/shrink/crack in as little as one week after a spa has been drained. Air can also cause internal metal components like the heater to rust. Overall hot tubs have the best lifespan when left filled with water and running. The *only* good thing is that being a 2003, it possibly still has the old pressure-treated lumber framing (which still contained arsenic) - arsenic infused PT lumber has a much longer lifespan than modern copper-infused PT lumber, especially when exposed to moisture and wet conditions (like a leaking pipe in a hot tub lol). From the various people I know who have had hot tubs and how they maintained them, I know you're not alone. Heck my best friend bought a home two years ago and it came with a hot tub in the backyard. It had developed a leak so the owner shut it off and stopped using it. Without any protection from the elements, it has gone through multiple snow-loads and freeze/thaws over who knows how many years. Given that it was a lower-end brand I told him to trash it - not worth the hassle. Given the size of your tub, it may be worth fiddling with. I'd do the bare minimum to repair the plumbing and see if it even holds water - you might have more leaks than the Titanic! Once you get the unit holding water at ambient water temps, then you get to try powering the sucker up and getting it to run and heat up to temp - you might find more leaks once things heat up. I think it depends on your local climate - do you live in a very dry arid climate, or relatively moderately humid all year long? The better insulated a hot tub, the more energy efficient the tub (because the heater will kick on less frequently, so less power consumed to maintain temp). A cheap budget grade modern spa will be just as energy inefficient (or worse) than the tub you have. You can always increase energy efficiency by adding extra insulation between the cabinet and shell walls, as well as replacing the cover (which will most likely need a new cover). Really depends on a lot of factors - the condition and how much money you're willing to throw at fixing the spa. Master Spas uses mostly off-the-shelf components so you won't have hard time finding replacements or upgraded components for all the electronics and jets/plumbing. And if you have copper-infused pt lumber, or the older arsenic infused PT lumber (which was discontinued in 2002). I'd open the access panel and check the condition - how's the framing and insulation look? Any infestations? Or is it all rotted away? How about the exterior of the cabinet? Holding water at ambient temperature is one thing, holding water without leaks heated to 100F is a different story.
    1 point
  21. Please post your experience and if we are on the right track. Photos are great.
    1 point
  22. Garden hose shop vac blower whatever ya gotta do. As for unscrewing jets would need to see photos of jet but if you can try to suck it all out by disconnecting the pump unions that attach to the pump and suck there (uneasy saying that...lol) What a manifold looks like below: Depending on how many jets are related to that pump there may be 6 lines (as shown) or there may be say 24 and there will be 4 of those connected and 1- 3/4" line feeding 1 jet. If at the end of the line there is a end cap or plug debris might pool there and start backing up plugging lines in extreme cases or even small amounts of debris that is large enough to go through the 3/4" line but not get past the smaller jet opening. Often there is a 90 degree turn in the flow of water when it gets to the jet body. Jet body 90 degree turn. This is a choke point. Top 3/8" is air injection. 3/4" Bottom comes from manifold
    1 point
  23. The gunk comes out when you use ahhsome. I was saying to use it multiple times, until no more gunk comes out, so you get it all. One treatment is often not enough on the first use. Not condescending, just honest. Are you here for answers or coddling? The best way to solve your issue is for you to understand that you didn't understand the chemistry. Also, you are getting the benefit of my 26 years of experience for free. I charge $125 to pull in a driveway, and $100/hr on site. If you are going to thank me for something, it should be that. Save the sarcasm for someone who cares what you think. Now THAT was condescending.😁 Yes it does, which is what it's for and the reason you aren't constantly inundated with chloramine odors. Ozone is an oxidizer, like a shock, but so strong it will destroy chlorine as well as chloramines. That's only a "problem" for those who don't understand it's purpose. Get rid of it and you'll always smell what you only smell when starting your jets now. The source of your odor is likely biofilm combining with chlorine producing chloramines inside the pipes where the ozone cannot reach it. Again, I would not recommend altering the spa controls to accomplish your plan. Get rid of the biofilm, all of it, and your smell should go with it. Probably your clouding too. This.
    1 point
  24. Thank you so much for your help. It's finally running again!
    1 point
  25. @Floating Away What about a propane on demand tankless water heater. Recirculate the water from the spa back into the spa. It will get the water hot quicker than waiting for the 1KW element that is normally used in 110V spas (36+ hours from fill) and then when the water is hot let the spa take over. Run both heaters at same time and save even more time. When away run the small battery pump shown off the solar and plumb a filter inline apart from the spa or even plumb it into the spa plumbing and circulate like a circ pump through the spas filters. Won't solve all the problems but might get you close. Model shown Runs on 2 D batteries You might also consider a "salt cell" Like a Saltron mini (never used one) might help keep water sanitized while away. 6' power cord; 120 VAC, 0.2A. 12' cell cable; output: 5 VDC. https://www.spadepot.com/Saltron-Mini-Spa-Salt-Water-System-Chlorine-Generator-P2457 @RDspaguy Thoughts?
    1 point
  26. Pretty much what I was going to say. I've never had much luck addressing issues with information in the manual, but that's why communities like this exist.
    1 point
  27. Thanks for the idea. Tried it today. Got water okay. Tried jets but still no luck. Any other thoughts. Is it possible it is something in control board. thanks for your interest in our issue. It turned out to be the knife valve stuck in the closed position. Once we drained tub and got that fixed we were back in business.
    1 point
  28. The fatal flaw with Beechcomber is the non removeable panels and any repair to leaking plumbing involves standing the spa up and removing the bottom. Often it has to be placed up on jack stands and all the pump connections need to be plugged off to be able to get water back in it to find the leak. Big job. There are liquid products available (Stop Leak) and some have had limited short term success and I do not recommend. Best shot at repair without standing it up is to let it leak down until it reaches a point where it stops. Then I remove the jet and use a quality GE silicone (I use marine grade) and run a bead of silicone around where the let body meets the acrylic. The flo error is likely a faulty flow switch but there could be other issues and I would start there. Dirty filter can be a flow killer so remove them and try without.
    1 point
  29. The SN2 error code indicates that the hi-temperature sensor in the heater or the water temperature sensor is malfunctioning. Start by removing the filters. Take them out of the equation. If there is a flow restriction the hi temp sensor might pick that up and send error. Make sure there is sufficient water flow from the circ pump and that there are no air locks in it. Look at your flow switch and you will see if the water if flowing through it correctly.
    1 point
  30. Can't answer your question but on the ozonator, if you have not replaced it, it's not doing anything. They have a finite life, usually 3 years so while it might make bubbles, you are not treating the water.
    1 point
  31. 1 point
  32. Thank you for all the advice. I'm hoping it is not the issue. It sounds a monster to fix..... Jacuzzi have previously replaced the IX unit under warranty when the LED failed on the unit, that was 4 years ago. Doesn't mean the unit or seal it hasn't failed since, am slightly suspicious in anything that has been previously touched. I will keep digging and checking everything and keeping fingers crossed I find the issue. Thank you again.
    1 point
  33. I think you give us too much credit, oh wise master of the chemical stuff.😆 I'm an electrician who answered the wrong job ad and ended up fixing spas. Don't expect me to keep up with you on this one my friend.
    1 point
  34. Not Saying this is your issue. The IX Jet Assembly has always been a Jacuzzi weak spot. It seems from my experience the tiny LEDs possibly get hot and cause tiny hairline fracturs. If you can get right up to it with a flashlight and get a good look you might see them. This repair if needed is one of the hardest repairs I come across and takes some skill and planning to get a new assembly to first reconnect to the plumbing and second to reconnect everything so that it sits flat and seals tight against the acrylic inside the bather area. If it is cockeyed even a little bit it will leak. Use lots of silicone between the ix let body and the acrylic. You only get one shot at it so dry fit and plan plan plan before glue. The base and side panels are part of the structure of the spa. Make sure to have all the side panels attached when standing it up. When stood up and the bottom is removed it might squat a bit. If the side panels are not on it could collapse. When reattaching try to tip the top back a bit to get the bottom back on. There also 2 drains that have to be disconnected before the bottom will come off that can be a real pain to reattach. In the past because the leaked water will fill the bottom pan it can be difficult to find exactly where the leak is coming from so I have had to tip the spa back down with the bottom off and get it up onto jack stands and/or blocks and add water back in to make it leak. Not Easy to do and I call in my Hot Tub Mover guys to help do it ($$). They often have to come 3 or 4 or 5 times to lift and lay down and lift and lay down. $$$ Can't do it on my own. Add min. $600+ to the repair. You can also try and drain the spa down to just above the IX jet and see if it drains below it over a few days. Won't tell you 100% but is a possible indicator of where it is leaking. GOOD LUCK and please post your experience and what/where you find the leak to help the next guy.
    1 point
  35. CanadianSpaTech, You are AWESOME, that is exactly what was wrong. I plugged pump #2 into the wrong place. After plugging it into the slot on the expansion board everything works as it should. Thank you for the time you took to help me solve it. THANKS AGAIN
    1 point
  36. Just replaced the board and matched all the dip switches. Had to pull one cable off the board and the two heater tabs and transfer them over.
    1 point
  37. There are many other o-rings around the spa that might be deteriorating.. diverter valves, pump unions, pump wet end seals. If the spa has a "salt" system I have seen the sacrificial zinc anodes deteriorate and send black particulate into the water. Suggest you also run some Ahh-Some plumbing line cleaner next clean out to remove any film from the spas plumbing. Going to be a challenge to find out what the cause is but I would start with the o-rings around the valves and pump unions (heater might be white but pump union gaskets or o-rings might be black) first as they are cheap. Spa pillows can also be a source that should be looked at closely. City or well water?
    1 point
  38. Not uncommon with the Laing E-10 circ pumps. They are magnetic drive and have small bearings inside the post sits on and they can get wonkey and start/stop. You will likely need to replace it. As for the bracket it sits in it is not a big deal if it is removed and just use a screw to hold it in. It's not going anywhere...unless you are going to move the spa to a different location. I normally just drain the spa and run AHH-Some plumbing line cleaner through it before draining if you have not done a purge on it in a while.
    1 point
  39. Hi all, Just an update, filters were removed all FLO error disappeared. When heating to 37 degrees celcius top temp on this spa is 40, the FLO error did not appear, however this morning when I went out and set to 38 I heard the Circulation pump kick over and within 5 seconds it stopped and FLO appeared, potentially a faulty pump? Will short out FLO switch and close it to see if that makes it kick over as Canadian suggested, if it does work then would suggest the FLO switch is causing the error past a set temperature and not the pump.
    1 point
  40. I have a Marquis Elite Broadway model hot tub. My problem is that 11 of the 30 jets are not working. All the jets are on the lower half. One note is the hot tub was empty and I filled it. It took about 4 minutes for the air bubbles to come out before the top half of jets started working. Any thoughts why 11 jets on lower half are not working. thanks
    1 point
  41. Dirty filters? Remove the filter and run without and see if error comes back. Try that first.
    1 point
  42. There are 2 forms of stabilized chlorine, trichlor and dichlor. Trichlor is very acidic and therefore not recommended for spas. For every 10 ppm of free chlorine (FC) added trichlor adds 6 ppm of CYA. Dichlor is net acidic (acidic on application and had an acidic reaction when it sanitizes) and it is commonly used in hot tubs. For every 10 ppm FC added it add 9 ppm CYA. There are 3 unstabilized chlorine sources, calcium hypochlorite (cal hypo), lithium hypochlorite, and sodium hypochlorite. Calcium hypoclorite is a slow dissolving powder that is basically net neutral (alkaline on addition and acidic reaction when it sanitizes) and it adds 7 ppm calcium hardness for every 10 ppm FC added. Lithium hypochlorite is a fast dissolving power that is net neutral also. It's main drawback is that it is the most epen$ive form of chlorine. Sodium hypochlorite is also a net neutral chlorine source. It is a liquid that commonly available in 10% AND 12.5% strength as liquid pool chlorine or liquid shock. It is also readily available as liquid chlorine laundry bleach (you want the plain, unscented, unthickened type without added detergents or additives). It is commonly available in 5.25% (regular) and 6% (ultra). It is also sometimes sold in 8.25% and 3%. The 3% is often sold at dollar stores and is usually more expensive to use because of the amount needed to reach a specific FC level. Chemically, laundry bleach and pool chlorine are EXACTLY the same except for the strength (just as alkalinity increaser and baking soda are exactly the same since both are sodium bicarbonate AKA sodium hydrogen carbonate). Sometimes Brand Name plain, unscented, unthickened laundry bleach will contain some additional chemicals such as polydiallyldimethylammounium chloride ( Polyquaternium-6) and Sodium polyacrylate to prevent dirt from redepositing on clothes in the wash. These particular additives with not have a negative impact and, in fact, are also the main ingredients in many water clarifiers used in pools and spas.
    1 point
  43. This work? https://www.spadepot.com/gasket-Kit-4-Watkins-Hot-Spring-Double-Barrel-Heater-P3111 https://www.spadepot.com/docs/Double-Barrel-Heater-Gasket-Kit-Instructions.pdf
    1 point
  44. I'm dealing with eviction court right now due to a loan from Superior. I tried to contact them in 2008 and noone knew where our loans went.
    1 point
  45. For those still interested in this part.. I sold several hundred of them and was contacted by Watkins (or someone claiming to represent them) asking to cease and desist. I told them I would not do so until they started making the part themselves and offer consumers an option. I told the rep that I would take it to court and make it the subject of news reports if they decided to move forward. I wasnt doing it to make money as it was far more troublesome and costly than you can imagine, but to screw the company over for screwing the consumers over. Well. right before summer I got a message that Watkins is now selling the part, with the O rings and for about 40% less than I was selling them for. So, now you have an option that doesnt involve a new heater. They dont advertise it and they arent happy to sell it, but here is the link. If they ever decide to stop selling them I have the file and will ramp right up again. High five for the little guys.. https://www.spadepot.com/Turnaround-Repair-Kit-Watkins-Hot-Spring-Double-Barrel-Heater-P3109
    1 point
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