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  1. I see this all the time. Missing Suction/pump return covers. If you have one that is broken or missing it is important to fix/replace ASAP. These covers provide a critically important safety feature. If you ever put your hand over a missing cover with the pump running in high speed it will suck your hand in and hurt. They were mandated years ago after a young girl got her hair sucked in and kept her under water with sad result. The pic below is from a job I just worked on where the customer was just topping up his spa with a bit of water. Dropped his expandable garden hose in and turned t
    4 points
  2. What @ratchettsaid! Hudson Bay is the low end line of Leisure Products Inc. Their current offerings are Hudson Bay, Dr. Wellness and Catalina. When I was researching, I initially thought that a Dr. Wellness was one of my top choices due to size, features and price. I quickly found out that they were a LPI product, which I had owned one about 25 years ago and had bad experiences with. I also found out that the dealer in my area wouldn't allow my to look at the equipment area which was a red flag, Why wouldn't the dealer let me look? Because I would have found a poorly insulated tub with su
    4 points
  3. TL/DR - No. HudsonBay spas is an LPI brand of spas. They are a terrible company who builds budget-grade spas using the cheapest components possible - since they are a mail-order product they are also constructed with essentially zero insulation to reduce manufacturing and shipping costs. When bought new (from sites like HomeDepot) they are extremely overpriced for what you're getting. LPI is a terrible company, they sell the same products under multiple brand names to obfuscate the customer making it harder for you to read all the negative reviews on the company. If you vi
    4 points
  4. OK, I think I found it and holy crap, someone is really proud of that assembly. Looks like it's from an Emerald Spa and yes, Hot Tub Outpost has it for $176 https://www.hottuboutpost.com/emerald-spa-point-led-for-lighting-system-no-plastic/ I would explore the electronics guy. IMHO, that's an outrageous price. Ebay UK has it for 67 pounds to the US.
    3 points
  5. On a 2008 control panel you have the red power light and green ready light . above is a blue fibre optic ambient light that is lit up from a led plugged into control panel . may need to check connection or wire behind bezel.
    3 points
  6. What I see most common mistakes when people install cover lifters that can shorten the life of the cover are... The bar going across the spa if placed in/at/on the fold and when the half cover is flipped open the bar thickness will cause the 2 halves to separate and over time will split the fold material. The cross bar should be fitted about 3/4"-1" below the center of the fold crease so when the cover is opened the fold can operate as designed and the bar is not forcing the 2 halves apart. Next is the screws holding the cross bar need to be pointed to the ground when the cover lifte
    3 points
  7. (Yawn...) I thought you were going to post something we didn't already know. Glad you're finally getting caught up... πŸ˜‰
    3 points
  8. @castletonia WOW now that's quick service. Thank You and have a great weekend... Older than it looks. Picked up the spa, 15' of tech 90 wire, The 2 breaker 20/30 Amp panel box, near new cover, Cover Lifter and cover cap plus the heaviest step ever for basically removal labour cost and a 20 min $10 leak repair. Despite it's age it is a super clean well taken care of spa that won't last the weekend once posted for sale. Some days it works out for the overworked and weary. πŸ™ No base rot, Pumps and pack are in perfect working order.
    3 points
  9. My 2 cents: A few red flags for me here that might be related. You have a floater for chlorine in a spa? The only form of chlorine used in a floater is trichlor, which is very acidic and dissolves quickly at spa temperatures and can lead to high chlorine situations that can damage and oxidize plastic parts above the waterline in a covered spa. Trichlor is slow dissolving at pool temperatures making it useful in a floater but it's solubility increases with temperature making it an unsound choice for a spa. Calcium only precipitates out in alkaline conditions and only below and at
    3 points
  10. That would be Virginia Graeme Baker, namesake of the VGB act, later renamed the pool and spa safety act, which regulates protections from entrapment and evisceration (yes, that means sucking out your intestines when you sit on a suction at the bottom of the pool) on public pools and spas, as well as new private pool and spa construction in the US. Old private pools and spas are unregulated, and usually unsafe. https://www.emsworld.com/news/10409001/minnesota-girl-6-disemboweled-kiddie-pool-drain Thank you @CanadianSpaTech for bringing up this important topic. ⭐ Gold star for YOU my f
    3 points
  11. Trying to heat a spa with residual heat from the pump motor is not effective, as you have seen. Nooooooooo!!!! Danger, Will Robinson! Make sure, and I mean absolutely SURE, it is plugged in to a functional gfci. And don't let it near the spa shell. Better yet, put in a control system with an actual, real life heater. Cheap ones can be found for $300 or so. Actually, start your own thread with pics of the equipment area. We'll get you squared away.
    3 points
  12. couple of things that I see (doesn't mean I'm right, just an educated guess): WE HAVE A WINNER! It's an add on salt system and the heater is probably not 'salt-safe" which really requires titanium coils and not incoloy. it's rust colored because stainless steel is made from iron and some stainless steel does rust, particularly when salt is present. My guess is that the screws are not salt grade stainless either. 304 stainless is the most common type but salt will cause corrosion. 316 stainless is more impervious to salt. IF the heating element is incoloy then there
    3 points
  13. update I finally had time and its warm enough to work on this I opened up all 4 sides no visible water leaks BUT when i put my hand between the plastic sheet on the bottom and the sprayed in foam I found a puddle a big one! so I started prodding and found it was wet all the way up almost to the top so I scooped out soaking wet foam until I found some lines and hour later I found the leak an air line had 3 pin holes when blower was off (which is 99% of the time) line fills with water and it was dripping pretty steady I cut out as much of the hose as I could it
    3 points
  14. I’m up and running! It was not an air lock. The fuse where the hot wire of the circ pump was blown. Put in a replacement and I’m good to go. Thanks to all of you for your help. I learned a lot! Dan
    2 points
  15. I believe the pressure switch is inside the black box. From Caldera, no serviceable parts, have to replace entire heater though I’ve never taken one part so I’m unsure if you could source the pressure switch elsewhere.
    2 points
  16. What country are you located? Post photos of the equipment, circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover of the pack if there is one. We can find you information on programming and other info by the equipment MFGs like Gecko, Balboa, waterway... this might help in parts searching if needed. https://www.poolandspacentre.co.uk/documents/Sunrise Spa Parts.pdf
    2 points
  17. Yeah I'll have to go back over again. Luckily only 10 mins away. When I went yesterday just had to much on the brain and it was XTRA hot and humid after a short rain and just didn't want to be there...lol. It happens. Yesterday me is such a D ck.. now Today me seems to think that it would be better if Tomorrow me deals with it...🀣
    2 points
  18. It would help to know who's hot tub it is. There are many places to get Spa repair parts if you know who made the tub. Is the LED out? That doesn't look that hard to DIY. It's just an RJ11 telephone cable with an LED connected to the end. Looks like there may be a circuit board that the LED is soldered to and that's probably had a dropping resistor on it. It's most likely a broken wire or a bad solder joint. It could also be the LED. None of this is difficult to repair if you can solder. If you can't, an electronics repair guy could fab one up fairly cheap.
    2 points
  19. In my state, the homeowner is allowed to do electrical work in his premise but a permit for add/modify is needed (legally) . In my case, I know the inspector personally so I did pull a permit and had him come over and inspect things. Like @RDspaguysaid, this covers me insurance wise and legally as far as my county is concerned.
    2 points
  20. They're a real company but one I would personally avoid. Sold them years ago at my previous job. The lower end products were not bad for the money but they lose their luster as the price increases because the quality doesn't match up with the price. Plus the company will screw the dealer every way possible when there is a warranty claim which is why you don't see a lot of dealers for them and rarely ever see a dealer who has been with the company long term.
    2 points
  21. Way too high. You want 30ppm, no more than 50ppm. Strips are notoriously unreliable, get a Taylor test kit. Recommend Ahhsome. Oh yuck did poorly in testing. Do you have ozone or uv? If so, it's working. Stop trying to maintain a residual with equipment made to remove the residual.
    2 points
  22. There's the catch. In some places the homeowner is permitted to do this type of work on their own home, but in others you have to get a licensed electrician. As this can affect your occupancy permit and interfere with the sale of your home, as well as potentially cause the denial of any insurance claim resulting from this work, I would recommend you check with your municipality and insurance carrier.
    2 points
  23. Ahhh The old Canadian made Polar Spa. Went out of business about 10 years ago now. There is a guy in Alberta that has the Polar Spa name but that's about all so finding a manual might be hard. Not much useful information in them any way. Start by removing filters and run without until we get the other issues fixed. Disconnect the ozone until we get the other issues fixed first When it shuts off does it trip the GFCI breaker in the panel? Just before the pump shuts off does it make a buzzing/humming sound? Might be locked up/seized. (My Guess) Let us know and we can g
    2 points
  24. Whether it is or not it will require repair... and yes it is likely the cause.
    2 points
  25. We had a person on here not to long ago with the 6 dashes. When he posted photos of the circuit board one leg of the heater was burnt. Think he had some other issues as well and ended up getting a new board...but were not there yet. Please post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover of the pack.
    2 points
  26. How old is the spa (a serial number can be decoded to determine age). Is this the flashing light on the front logo? If so that should mean high limit sensor has tripped (test water temperature - is it over 108F or is it colder than set temp?). Also since I know the guys are gonna ask, take some photos of the wiring diagram and the control board, etc. If you see any scorch/burn marks around anything try to get a closeup photo and post them here.
    2 points
  27. I haven't been following this thread, as I have never heard of Hudson Bay. It seems you've moved past that, so I'll throw in my 2 cents worth. 🀣 πŸ‘ ⭐ Yes! πŸ‘ πŸ˜‚That's funny. I have a tub that would fit. . My advice is ALWAYS the same. A good dealer is more important by far than a good deal. We just had a thread from a guy with a nearly new tub who can't get the dealer to call him back about an led issue. He's about to VOID HIS WARRANTY by fixing it himself, and came here for advice. I advised an attorney, among other things... So shop dealers, not spas
    2 points
  28. @castletonia, can you shed some light on the blinking blue lights? Is that an error indicator or a shorted light button? @Indiekid, did you fill it through the filter well with filters removed? Post a pic of the circuit board, wiring diagram on the inside of the control box lid, and equipment area. On the circuit board you should see a number of lit led lights. Which ones are lit? They are labeled on the board beside each led.
    2 points
  29. We can close this one off guys. I fixed the problem today! After almost throwing in the towel and letting the local pro take a look, I checked the Pump 1 power to the board and noticed that the black wire was slightly pulled out of the plastic housing and thus not making contact. Re-set the wire into the housing, and voila - low speed is working just fine. Thanks for the assistance @RDspaguy @CanadianSpaTech
    2 points
  30. If this is an inflatable, start a new thread in the inflatable section, if this is a standard tub, please start a new thread in this section and post up pictures of your spa pack internal circuit board, the wiring diagram usually on the cover and your equipment area.
    2 points
  31. Why do you think you need a high limit probe? https://arctichottubparts.com/en/electrical/spa-paks/probes-and-wires/global-gecko-hi-limit-probe.html Everything about that board screams Gecko. I would give Gecko Depot a call and verify what one is needed. https://www.geckodepot.com/Produit/Listeproduit.aspx?IdCat=794
    2 points
  32. (a) you then need to consult the book that came with your kit to determine how much acid is needed to drop the pH to 7.2 based on the number of drops of acid demand reagent. Now check your TA. IF it is not 50 to 70 ppm start aeration until the pH rises to 8.0.do another acid demand test (b). Repeat from (a) to (b) until the TA is in the range of 50 to 70 ppm. If you want you can aerate to bring the pH up to around 7.6 to 7.8 but ;personally I wouldn't bother since the pH will rise on its own. Maintain the pH around 7.8 with bromine for the best pH stability. When doing TA and CH
    2 points
  33. That's a 15A GFCI receptacle you have. I'm pretty sure you need a 20A circuit. You might have a 20A breaker in the panel but you really should replace that GFCI with a 20A one. A 20A circuit should be wired with 12-2 romex. If it's 14-2, it's a 15A circuit. The tub needs to be on a dedicated circuit, so you do need to follow up with tracing the circuit out. That replacement plug also looks like a 15A plug. I certainly understand why you have that but technically, both the GFCI and the plug are under rated for the tub. You can use a non GFCI cord as long as it is plugged into a GFCI c
    2 points
  34. Around here, a dealer charges anywhere from $90-$125 an hour plus a trip charge, so no, that sounds reasonable. Do I understand you right? You have a 20A 125V GFCI protected outlet in which you plug in your GFCI cord to? If so, while it's not wrong, it can complicate troubleshooting. The 2 GFCI's can sometimes interact with each other.
    2 points
  35. The Moto-Massage drain leaks to my knowledge were only possibly an issue from 2009-2012 but I do not have any firsthand experience with 1990's Hot Spring. If you want to do the repair right it would involve putting the hot tub up on blocks and once it starts dripping from underneath follow the water back to the leak. If you patio isn't perfectly level, the leak could be in a completely different area.
    2 points
  36. If water level and filters are not the problem, the two rows of dashes would usually indicate a pressure switch or circuit board problem and the pressure switch would be the more likely culprit. You could try "jumping" the pressure switch to see if the dashes go away. If so, replace pressure switch, if not, then continue troubleshooting. The dashes should not prevent you from being able to adjust the temperature on the display. When the hot tub was reading 105, what was it set for?
    2 points
  37. Hi TMC: One way to help eliminate the goo that is adhering to the shell is to mix some baking soda into a paste and place it in a small area at a time. Let is stand for 10 minutes and them take an old towel and soak it in white vinegar. Rub the area where the baking soda was placed. This will definitely help you out. People have no idea just how sticky this gunk is. Polysaccharides contribute to this because it is a bunch of sugar molecules. Please let the forum know how it works for you.
    2 points
  38. Shhhhh They obviously had the spa running at some point...What happened to the electrical? (Red Flag) So what can you do... First fill it up and go back tomorrow. Next you will have to get at the back end of the pumps and remove the dust cover that is dead center of the back end of the motor. There you will see a slot for a flat head screwdriver (bring a finger sized flat head in case it is tight to access) place it in the slot and see if ALL the pumps will turn and are not seized. Bring a multi meter and test the heater element for continuity. Open panels and l
    2 points
  39. Assuming this hot tub did not have the circulation pump added and only has the jet pump, the pump should turn on automatically when it needs heat. Keep in mind though that it will not automatically call for heat until the actual water temperature is 2 degrees below the set temperature.
    2 points
  40. Muriatic acid, or raise water level and drop ph below 7 for a week or two. If it's still there, it's not calcium. Chlorine that raises ph can cause calcium scale, as will anything else that raises ph. But that would require excessive chlorine use. @waterbear, any advice?
    2 points
  41. Not a real thing. You cannot create energy (heat) from nothing, it defies the laws of physics. If it is making heat it is also making your pump work harder by restricting flow. A pump running constantly will reach temperatures well over 100 under normal use, and will heat the water some by simple proximity. It would be cheaper to get a small inline heater or spa pack and install it in the spa. I get the DIY urge, but I guarantee it will cost much more and heat much less than just doing it right. Post some pics of the equipment area and existing circuit board/ control pack and we
    2 points
  42. Assuming your water level is high enough and the filter is clean it is either the pressure switch (most likely) or circuit board.
    2 points
  43. Affordable spa covers are the cheapest I have found.
    2 points
  44. Copper ionizer. Useless snake oil, IMHO. Just a way of getting copper ions into the water. Copper is an effective algaecide and a lousy sanitizer, not even as effective as silver.
    2 points
  45. Be sure to tighten housing bolts in a crisscross pattern.
    2 points
  46. It's plugged in the wrong plug. Move it to the one closest to the power wires.
    2 points
  47. The lower the amp draw the better (and cheaper) it is. I have plans for an aquaponics setup in my greenhouse and plan to use an E10 that I have laying around on a 24/7 cycle for circulation and timed solenoids to flood the beds, shut off by a flow switch on the bell siphon discharge. Will cost about 21 cents a day to run, under $7 a month where I am. That's a great deal for a 20x30 high tunnel full of veggies and several 1000 gallon "ponds" loaded with freshwater lobster (aka Australian redclaw crayfish) and tilapia.
    2 points
  48. @RDspaguy lol trust me when it comes to mixing water and electricity I've learned the hard way many times over. My test outlet is GFCI. As it goes back together for final use I'm using the original cord and guts. Only change is swapping out the motors. Pretty sure the fish don't need the full pressure of the 1 hp motor.
    2 points
  49. Ok I am going to update this I unplugged the remote control panel and since march I have NOT had any errors or lock so it IS the remote panel next time I open the control box I will reconnect the remote and see what happens
    2 points
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