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October is more realistic than September, but too many unknowns still. I’m telling my customers 12-20 weeks and to plan on the latter.

Sorry.😂 I got the impression it was your neck of the woods when you asked for the name. I never even checked a map. But still, you might know them... there's only a half dozen of you guys up there, right? (That's 6 for you metric folks🤣) Who are the "Leafs"? A sports team? Hockey, I am guessing? I was never a fan, but I did work on the Blues tubs at the arena and their practice facility, as well as a half-dozen or so of their private tubs for a few years. Bernie Federko (who owned the oldest Sundance spa I ever saw), Brett Hull, Al MacInnis, Chris Pronger, Tony Twist, and a few others I can't remember. One Russian guy whose name I never could pronounce as it didn't have enough vowels. I got box seats a few times, the food was good. I'll never forget the time I was in the pit working on a circ pump replacement when my vice grips came loose and water was spraying everywhere. I jump up cussing to find the whole team standing behind me (they snuck in after practice) butt-naked in a line. I said "Damn! Can't you f***ers wear a towel or something?". They all thought it was hilarious. I caught **** about that for years.

They’re ok. Wouldn’t be in my top 10-15 brands I would choose. Sold them briefly in my previous life back in 2011-2013. Was never a fan of the steel frame and I question how efficient they were. While I can’t keep tabs on everything from my previous job, I don’t think the ones I sold have aged very well. I personally would look at other options.

You'll be alright. My philosopy on pools is...never buy a house with a pool...buy a house next door to a house with a pool and be a good neighbour 😄 You could always upgrade the breaker to a 60 and then have the heater run when both pumps are on high.

A pump is sized based upon the calculated head of the plumbing involved. Raising the hp of a pump can cause problems in both the plumbing and the pump motor. I would not recommend it. Low current mode should turn off the heater with both pumps on.

Just another day at the office

No that is not the right pump do not order. Arctic Spa and those yellow pumps are usually 2.5"" inlet and a 2" outlet. Look at the pump wet end and if you notice the one with the red plumbing at the face of the pump will be a larger pump union than the one coming off the side of the pump with the withe plumbing. Those Yellow pumps often fail and trip the breaker. European made and tough to get parts for. Best to replace with a Waterway. Waterway 2.5" x 2" Part number: WW 3721621-13. If you are unsure of size post a pic of the wet end so we can see both pump unions.

No, yes, maybe... You should read up on different maintenance methods, then read about what ozone does. There are many articles and videos available, as well as numerous forum threads that discuss them. I personally won't own a spa without one.

Flow switch protects the heater. If there is no or low flow it won't allow the heater to fire. When you start up the pump 1 should start first and then the flow switch detects the flow and starts the heater. If the heater is bad it will trip the breaker at this point. Have you disconnected just the heater from the circuit board and tried to start it without the heater connected? The fuse green buss fuse (SC 25) protects the pump so is you have the heater disconnected and the pump fuse blows you have a pump short. What fuse is blowing? Please post photos of your circuit board

Does the pump try to run or is it dead? When you press the jet button can you hear the relay click from underneath? Probably a blown fuses or bad pump.

Yes place the frame in the photo on top of a couple of inches of 3/4 gravel for drainage and place the frame in so it's nice and level. Then just back fill the openings with limestone screening (fine gravel) so that is flush/level) with the inside edge of the wood frame. You want the spa to sit on the wood frame. The limestone is there for stability and extra support. Make the top edge of the wood frame about 2" above grade so it sits up a bit off the grass. Mine is going on 10 years and still sits level and I have had dozens of spas on it.

As I said on TFP, they are the same.

I have a guess. What is your cyanuric acid level? What form of chlorine are you using? (I suspect you might be using trichlor tabs and you don't have enough Cyanuric acid buildup after a week, which is to be expected, or a SWCG and have not added enough Cyanuric acid) also, does the stain react to chlorine and disappear (pour some bleach on it and see what happens.) If so it's algae. The fact that you had not chlorine in a week old pool makes me suspect that t the FC is being burned off by the sun because your stabilizer is low. In addition, some algaecides (notiably polyquat) will also kill chlorine. Yellow stains are either organic, iron, or algae. Iron would come from your fill water and if your pH was high (if the pool is plaster this is most certainly the case for teh first year!), shocking could cause staining . Iron stains are most common in fiberglass pools but can also appear on plaster and vinyl. . You really need to tell us more about your pool and post a full set of test results so we can better help you. A few tests to try, hold a vitamin C tablet on the stain. If it disappears in about 30 seconds where the tablet sat then it's iron. Pour bleach or hold a trichlor tablet on a stain. If it disappears it's algae or organic.

There you go. Get the right pump and no issues to worry about.

Don't use gravel. If you must, use a grid or spa pad.

It won't run until it cools down. It could have been caused by long filter cycles and high outside temps/ sunshine.

Both good brands. Each has advantages and disadvantages. I loved my Caldera, in spite of not liking to work on watkins products. I owned it longer than any other spa I have owned (and there have been many) and refused to sell it several times to people looking at other spas I had for sale. I have not owned an Artesian or worked on one less than a decade old as there is no longer an artesian dealer in my area.

The pipe is likely connected to the blower with a screw. It should be apparent if there is water in it.

Blower 1 photo.... Disconnect the blower from the white plumbing and have a look inside the plumbing. That first white hard plastic fitting just before the elbow fitting might have a flapper inside and could be the check valve. Once you get the blower out look for any water inside of it. Then let it dry out for a day or 2 and try it again before reinstalling and if it still trips you will have to replace it. It could be that it is just a bad blower and nothing to do with the check valve. Could be both the check valve and blower will have to be replaced... Hard to tell from here...lol @RDspaguy anything to add? I can't remember ever changing one out. Let us know results

Yep seen it before....some kind of tape worm/parasite. lines up in rows. Really gross and REALLY never want to see it again. As for the fix...Burn everything. Just kidding (not) not sure what the owner did in the end. I gave him some Ahh-Some and said good luck. Perhaps some of the chem guys will have an answer

Thank you for the suggestions. This is what I found, after removing the valve from the housing I found that the piece that blocks off one side or the other was broken off and partially blocking one route. I was able to get a replacement part at the hot tub store and all is good. I appreciate the quick responses, thank you.

@CanadianSpaTech, it's a diverter jet not a diverter valve. Check the individual jets as suggested. Has it ever worked properly for you? Did you remove the diverter jet for some reason?

Unfortunately we see alot of problems with these inflatable tubs but there never seem to be any answers. Please update this post if you find one, or actually hear back from the manufacturer. The best advice I have is return it. Write some reviews so maybe the next person won't make the mistake of buying one too.

Dont do much with above grounds but a slab is something I haven't seen. I would do rigid foam board amd use any type of construction adhesive it's not going anywhere with all the water weight

Just an update, I replaced the breaker and it has stayed on for 24 hours so far so things are looking hopeful. Thanks for the advice.

This is a very subjective question, all three brands are built by different manufacturers, all of them make decent tubs. I'm a Hotspring fanboy, but I feel a HS is only worth the money if it has MotoMassager jets, those are proprietary to Hotspring exclusively. You'd need to wet-test a tub with those jets to determine if you like the experience they provide. For the wife and I, it's our favorite part of the whole tub - I like to shut off the other jets and send full power to the dual motomassager jets plus neck/foot jets in that seat, but my wife finds that too powerful for her comfort. Bullfrog tubs have a very innovative jetpack design which has a lot of pros and a few cons. You'll note that the seats tend to feel more upright and "flat" to accommodate the jetpacks themselves and how they slide into place - but this may be a moot point for you personally. Won't know until you wet-test a bullfrog tub to know for certain if they are comfortable to you personally and your body type. I would start by researching the models you like in your budget, then visit the dealers and see how things go. If you REALLY like one brand and the dealer, schedule a wet-test to test something from that product line (doesn't have to be the exact same model, just something from that same tier/class to give you an idea of how the jets and seats feel). As others have mentioned, the dealer is a major part of the equation as they are the ones covering warranty labor costs if/when the tub needs service. Be sure you trust the dealer to do the job right if it needs service in a year or two, and not simply hire the lowest-bidding spa tech in the region. Some dealers specialize in one brand of spas exclusively, other dealers might be big-backyard HGTV makeover style selling multiple products/brands. Not all spa dealers are alike, when you go to look at a hottub, don't just look at the tub itself, but be sure to ask questions about the dealership themselves - how long have they been in business, do their sales reps work on commission or salary, do they have techs on staff, what is their call-out fees, what do they charge for maintenance items like filters and chemicals, etc. Some would argue the dealer you buy from is just as important as the brand you buy, be sure to keep that in mind when shopping for a tub. I would also suggest you check out what Marquis and Nordic have to offer - they make a decent tub at a competitive price from what I've been hearing lately.

Yes. Solid flo means it is reading closed when it should be open, flashing flo is the opposite. That is why we suspect a bad flow switch, because it should not be closed at start-up. The fact that it works when jumpered after start up confirms that it is the switch or wire and not the board.

Yes, they are not far from me and I have purchased from them before. John said it would be a good match for my simple hot-tub. I sent you an email for more info Thanks again!

No problem glad you got tit going. Where did you find the parts...at the place in London, ON

Post pics of YOUR circuit board so we can SEE what you have got. Perhaps we can spot something the tech missed

Turn off power. Remove the black and white wires that connect the two relays from the relay on the right. Turn on power. Check for 120vac at the two (now empty) spade terminals on the right relay. Then check for 12vac at the small control wires (red/blue, black/white) on the top of the relays. Post results.

How was it tested and by whom? Remove the filters and leave them out until the issue is fixed. Remove them from the equation. Is the FL code solid or flashing? Solid is usually a faulty flow switch. Flashing is a low flow error...Dirty filter, low water level, closed gate valve or blockage from debris. Could try removing the flow switch from the circuit board and use a flat head screwdriver to touch the 2 pins on the circuit board together and see if it starts. Basically by passing/jumpering the flow switch. If it starts replace flow switch.

Yes - missed that last response from @CanadianSpaTech - thank you! Indeed the fuse is no longer conducting - will order a new one and go from there.

I mean I use an Ozonator and Silver mineral cartridge in my Hotspring Jetsetter. The only two chemicals I use otherwise are Dichlor56 and Baking Soda (to raise PH as needed, tested monthly). Setup is easy for me - fill with water, dump in three tablespoons of dichlor56 and run the jets for 30 minutes with cover off to shock the tub initially. 18 hours most of the chlorine shock has burned off and the tub is ready to use Even though my tub is Freshwater salt compatible, I currently have no desire to switch to salt. For sh!ts and grins I *might* consider testing freshwater salt once my ozonator fails in two years, but for now I'm perfectly happy adding a bit of Dichlor to the spa after each soak - it takes me 10 seconds to add the sanitizer before closing the lid so it's not a big deal at all. I get that some people like Freshwater salt, but it seems like more hassle than it's worth especially when you factor in the cost of replacement salt cells which are not sold online currently and must be purchased through the dealer.

I know it won't be you for first year ... But I'm calling you after intial warranty

Hey $20 is $20...lol

Factory is just down the road so I see a lot of them out of warranty and yes they are not a top tier brand but the have their place and overall they seem not bad post warranty. I get a few with the Balboa pack with the quick disconnect heater (heater plugs onto the board not screwed/ 3/8" nutted) that seem to have a higher than normal blown relay fail rate but that is a Balboa problem and not a Sunrise problem. They also used the Balboa LM8 pack for about a year and a half and they were/are my #1 rated worst pack ever but again a Balboa issue. As for the galvanized frames I have never seen one fail/break...yes I have seen lots with rusted areas but usually on spas that were not taken care of and allowed to leak or placed on a poorly made pad where water doesn't shed properly. Roxol bag insulation is questionable for the long haul but can easily be replaced and/or supplemented with extra Roxol in the empty void areas for additional R value...or foam board around the perimeter works great as well. Very easy to work on so Yay for me. Price in our area is good value. I often recommend them to folks not wanting to pay for a "brand" name and just want a simple straight forward spa. The "Freestyle Spas" plug and play have done very well in that category. They were recently (2-3 years ago maybe) bought up by the Jaccuzi "Fund" conglomerate to fill their need for a "lower" end line along with Hydopool Spas for their swim spa needs. Canadian Made/Assembled is a bonus as well. Yay Canada!

I agree with @CanadianSpaTech, they couldn't have not known. Freeze damage is the worst thing that you can have in a spa. The pump will likely be damaged, as will the heater and lower suction pipes at least. If you are lucky it was only partly filled and did not freeze jets or manifolds. Does it have any jets in the footwell? From my experience (25 years) fixing them, you will drain and refill that spa AT LEAST 3 times before you complete all the repairs. Some won't even start leaking until the water is hot. So fix it, fill it, find more leaks, drain it, maybe stand it on its side, fix it... Your weekends are booked through September. You'll recall... And my favorite... I hope that was true and not wishful thinking born of a complete lack of understanding of spa repair. I guess we'll find out soon enough. 😉 I would give @CanadianSpaTechthe info. As an industry pro in the area he may know them. Shame is a powerful motivator. And they are not a used car lot, there was no trade-in, they just removed it when they delivered the new one. Probably after charging the owner several hundred $ to tell him that it would cost thousands to fix and he should just get a new one. You got screwed. Sorry. Should have insisted on seeing it full and running with sides off.

Any repair product is a band-aid at best. If it is on the pressure side of the pump it won't work at all. I would just replace it. But pvc doesn't crack on its own, it was likely frozen and you will have other problems as well. You should have insisted on them removing the sides and checked for multiple leaks. I suspect you will have the bad blood before you are done.

So I spoke with a person from customer service told her the whole Story including what tech support told the service guy about scratching there head over the problem and both of us agreed that’s not a good sign. So I suggested replacing everything associated with the lights and she seemed to agree. I also said If that doesn’t resolve it then maybe we should start talking about replacing the tub. I would rather not replace the tub because everything else works jets,etc.plus the tub is inside my lanai cage so that would require opening up part of the cage section if I can’t get it thru the oversized door so we’ll see how this works out??

That depends on many factors. I would program filter cycles so it doesn't run while they are sleeping.

As I recall, that system should run automated functions without the topside. Usually when a button sticks or shorts it will continually cycle low-high-off, but anything is possible.

Hot Spring recommends pH at between 7.4-7.8 and TA between 80-120. These have always been the pH and Alk guidelines to my knowledge and the CH has been than way since the introduction of ACE back in 2008 I think.

@RDspaguy stuck pump button on topside? Hot and gooey out there. Could he disconnect the topside and see if it runs semi normal...like me

Hot Tub Movers is my best friends business. They will take good care of you. Enjoy Regards Kurt

Think I have a used XM pack if you want to make the drive (Guelph Line and 401). Try it and if it works out for you...buy it...if not return it no charge. Send me a PM with your number if you are interested. Sorry I don't have the In.Therm unit to go with.

Lay down a inch or 2 of 3/4 crush gravel. Build a 4 x 4 picture/window frame with a few extra supports within it and back fill with screening. Make it the same size as the base of the spa so that when on the pad the skirting will over hang it a bit and allow water to go to ground and not onto the wood and back under the spa but really not a big deal. The spa will be on wood and not gravel. As for the warranty in relation to the base never seen it happen. Where in Ontario? We might have done your delivery... Hot Tub Movers Send me a PM if you have Questions and include your number. I am out of Milton

Oh man,,,,you have me so confused now....ha ha ha....I love Toyotas....always wanted a Volvo....!!! Ok, so you are basically saying: 1) The electrical differences would take YEARS to make up the difference in price. 2) The Nordic is not only cheaper, but more reliable and cheaper to fix. 3) of utmost importance to me is also, depth of seat. I know it's important when its 20 below to have as much of the body as possible under the water. (Not from my own experience, from my friends who own tubs up here! So the fact that the D'amour MS is 34 inches, vs HOT Springs, 29 inches is a concern of mine. 4) I like the idea of a lounger in the HOt Springs, which is probably why it's deep enough on that seat, but Im afraid that the other person will be left in the cold....?????? 5) So Dr. Spa and Spa sage, you both seem to prefer the Nordic to the Hot Springs. Is it only because of repair costs down the line? Any other reason? I just wonder as I got the impression that Hot Springs was one of the best companies....and or makers of hot tubs. So curious as to why the obvious preference for Nordic. Lastly, I am partial myself to the Nordic in terms of getting a hot tub made in my own state....Michigan,,,,but I am rather not liking the only dealer... I wish the Hot Springs dealer sold Nordic.... Weigh in please. Karen

I find that a mineral stick, no matter what brand, will help maintain clear water when you are not using the tub. In other words extend the length of time between chlorine additions.

I picked up the tub yesterday and started to fill it up. Found the first issue, big crack on the elbow coming off of one of the pumps. I have seen a couple of products: Plast-aid 80400 WELD-ON 810 2-Part PVC Repair Adhesive That look like they could repair the cracks, do they work or should I just get replacement pieces? Both aren't that easy to find though, is there something else if it is worth repairing?