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FIXED! So after going through what you had said at the GFCI and voltage being correct. I checked continuity between the ground and white. There was none. I went back to the panel in the garage and the white had come loose. I thought it was secure but it was completely loose. Thanks so much for the help! Hopefully this helps someone else with similar symptoms.

...and find a new service tech

Ok, so it's probably heating from residual heat. Post up pictures of the PC board in the spa pack. Make sure we can see the relays and the dip switches (if any) clearly. Go ahead and order up a couple of fuses and replace the blown fuse.

Starting at the pump and working back you have a 45 degree pump union glued into the gate valve, The gate valve is glued into a 2" x 2" x 2" T fitting. You have soft plumbing on the far side of the T fitting and it can be cut where the soft plumbing goes into the T fitting. You will likely have to use a 2" coupler to add in a piece of 2" plumbing to reattach it back into the T fitting. Anytime you cut something you end up 1.5-2" short. Sometimes you get lucky and have enough slack in the soft plumbing to be able to reattach it but you will likely not so you have to use a coupler and a 3" bit of 2" soft hose. NOW the difficult part... where does the other "leg" of the T fitting go to... You can't cut rigid plumbing FITTINGS and reattach a new piece. You have to go to soft hose to soft hose to the pump union and replace everything that is a rigid fitting in between. On the pump side new union then new Gate valve then new T fitting straight through to Soft plumbing. You need to dig out the last side of the T Fitting and see where it goes and if you can get to a spot with soft plumbing that you can cut add a 2" coupler and a 3" piece of soft hose to rejoin the soft plumbing back into rigid pipe and rebuild it all. If that last "leg" of the T fitting goes directly into the pump return fitting in the foot well you will be replacing that as well. You have to do all this AND get it all to line up so the pump union can sit flush up against the pump face so it doesn't leak. I attach the pump union first and work from there dry fitting everything first so you know it's flush up against the pump face. Side note.. you might have a straight section of 2" rigid plumbing that goes into the T fitting instead of soft plumbing and it could be cut and a coupler used just like with soft plumbing... cut it and add a coupler to the straight rigid pipe and use soft on the other side of the coupler to go into the T fitting. It doesn't have to be rigid pipe. Dig out that foam and see where it goes. Post more pics and we can go from there. You can buy a serviceable gate valve that can be taken apart if ever needed in the future and if they had of used one you would not be in this situation. It has o-rings that can wear out but are cheap to replace ...but that would be to easy... and we all know nothing is easy...ever. Would love to take an spa engineer/designer out for a day and say here you fix it.

I believe that Canadian Spa Tech means that a pressure switch or flow switch will NOT activate, so no power will be delivered to the heating element.

I purged the tub this morning for about 35 min I wiped the scum/sides down a few times until there was very little scum coming out. This product is excellent! It’s filling now I’ll see if this makes a difference thanks again!

And what you did is usually what would be recommended here in a non warranty repair situation. I will say that in some cases, it really is easier and cheaper to drop in a Balboa VS501 ($500 complete) or a Gecko IN.YE ($400 complete, $500 for an IN.XE) and call it a day. This is especially true for one that has a bad heater and extensive PC board damage.

Just have to add... There is no such thing as a free spa.😉

For me, the so called "bullet" jets are for targeted therapy, and are great in neck, foot, leg, and palm jets. Nobody wants a 4" rotating jet blasting the back of their head with 30gpm of flow. And the Sundance jets are high flow, at least on the older ones, even on the non-directional ones, which are adjustable for flow. The issue is that many consumers equate number of jets with quality of experience, which is of course not the case. So low quality spas will increase their jet count with useless, often irritating, jets in an effort to sell spas to the uninformed. High end spas put a great deal of attention into shell design, jet placement and selection, and water pressure and flow. D1 was mentioned, and they do, but they are by no means the only one. I will also point out that jet count is not the only factor that gets manipulated for the sake of an impressive sounding ad. Pump hp is another factor, so much so that they have, over the last 20+ years, made it a meaningless term. Many pumps are rated for BHP, or brake horsepower, a term never meant for pumps that includes the momentary high amp draw and capacitor used at start-up, which are nothing at all to do with the amount of flow or pressure the pump produces in operation. In the industry we don't even look at hp anymore, we order pump motors based on amp draw and voltage, which do not lie.

Your only chance would be something that would give you some flex. Epoxys and most glues would give a ridged patch that would crack either through the patch, or at the edge of as soon as the tank flexed or expanded with pressure. You could try letting the tank dry COMPLETELY, like for a couple of days. Then pushing some high temp silicone (orange) into the crack with your thumb and let it cure while the tank is still dry. Dont make a mess, just in the crack. You still want to keep the o-ring groove clear. Even then, this attempted repair offers no guarantee. this would be a temp fix at best while you are waiting for the replacement filter or tank. Note: If you were to manage no leaks with this fix, I would not trust enough to go on holiday for a week with it like that. Good luck.

Glad you were able to get it right. Thank You Oh Stop Now I'm Blushing. Again Thank You @RDspaguy please...make him stop ...lol

Thanks again sending it to him for a full rebuild thank you will let you know when I'm back up and running

95-97 Sundance spas leak at the small pipe glue fittings at each jet and the manifolds under the diverter valve(s) and possibly buried in the foam under the seats near the footwell. And the ozone/heat return jets. I replumbed so many I had a $2500 flat rate for it 15 years ago. The leaks are small but many, and will destroy the frame. You will not be able to rebuild it for $2k even without leaks to deal with, unless you are VERY lucky. I personally would not bother, as it's resale value up and running is less than you will likely spend to fix it.

And after a few minutes what does it show? Same dashes? Check sensor wires and connection. Test sensors with ohm meter.

Yes. Doesn't matter. How many guests have used it since then? Do they shower first? Or spill things, or do things, in the tub? When I maintained vacation rentals in Tahoe I went by a very simple rule, and it even rhymes: "When in doubt, dump it out." Often it is not worth trying to save.

It is an ozonator, and I would replace it in my spa which has 24/7 injection. If it's a timed circulation pump I wouldn't bother.

Run some Ahh-Some through it... Don't want it coming back.

You just made that up...lol

Just shock it.

Let the neighbor's 20 yr old son use my spa once for a party. They had lots of wobbly pops and a slip and slid set up using dish soap on it to slide better then used the spa. When I got home it was like a foam party at a rave. Good party though. Woke him up at 8 am after he had gone to bed at 4 all wasted and made him drain, clean and fill. Thought he was gonna die...lol

That fitting should have an o-ring, but someone caulked it. It will have water in it, and it's purpose depends on where the clear hose goes, either a bleeder/bypass or a drain. Yes, you need it long term, but can do without it for a while (untill you drain/refill at least). The leak might be a crack in the pump face or a leak at the barb or o-ring (caulk seal in this case). That caulk looks fairly new, so I am betting on pump face or barb crack. I would replace the barb and see. If it still leaks, replace the pump face.

I would also suggest that you mention the use of this spa when seeking advice on any of the forums you frequent, as this changes everything about the advice you will recieve. Yours is not a typical spa, and typical solutions may not suit your circumstances.

In your vacation rental tub, you have no control over what goes in that water. Your guests could be pouring in bubblebath for all you know (Yes, I've seen it happen). If the foam down doesn't do it, drain and refill. The time since your last water change is meaningless in your situation.

He's Canadian, and a bit of a drama queen as well. It's not his fault... 🤣 Seriously, the issue is where that other pipe that disappears into the foam goes. It might be simple, or it might be a nightmare. No way to tell without digging it out. Or, you know, you can try the epoxy band-aid. I personally wouldn't waste the time and effort, but I'm a bit of a perfectionist and follow the motto "do it right or do it again". And I HATE to do it again...

Even fats from bathers' skin will saponify and become soap. And CanadianSpaTech is correct about residual detergent from swimwear. I worked decades for a soap and detergent company.

If you are washing your bathing suits with the regular load of laundry it will pick up the detergent and when you go in the spa it's just like a washing machine and will release the detergent and foam up like it is designed to do. Don't wash just rinse. I have been using Spa Marvel lately. Bottle every 3 months on refill with great results.

This is a moot point. Shock means to raise the oxidizer levels high enough to burn off organics in the water. Last time I checked hypobromous acid was an oxidizer. This is no different than shocking with chlorine in a chlorine system. You are raising the hypochlorous acid levels high enough to oxidize organics. MPS works much the same by adding enough oxidizer, in this case MPS, to oxidize organics. Shock is a verb that means raising the level of oxidizer high enough to destroy organics in the spa. Hydrogen peroxide is used as an oxidizer to shock biguinide systems. Shocking works the same no matter what sanitizer system you are using.

correct

That is the pressure switch. Not sure if you can find a replacement.

It would really depend on how the system was plumbed at the equipment. could you post some pics of the equipment plumbing? especially the return side (water back to the pool/ spa).

I check to ensure my pH is within range and add a bit of extra chlorine to my spa since my Ozonator burns off most chlorine. First time I tried to use Ahhsome, I didn't have sufficient chlorine in the water and that seemed to affect the performance. I prefer to dilute the gel AhhSome in a cup of hot water and then pour it into the spa. I run my jets for 20 minutes, then turn the jets off for 10 and clean the scum at the water line. Run the jets AGAIN for 20 minutes, and then off for 10 while cleaning any fresh scum. I repeat this process 3-4 times until essentially nothing new is coming out of the plumbing. And then I drain/refill. NOTE: Do not let the biofilm scum dry/harden on your shell - big mistake I made my first time. This stuff is nearly impossible to scrub off after it hardens, so be sure to wipe the scum off the water line before you start draining.

Turn counter clockwise until it stops, then force it a bit further. Use some big channel locks and a rag.

Going way back in the 70's and 80's I used to get a product from Hayward that was called "schmear". I am not certain if Hayward still offers the product. It was used for field repairs on cycolac tanks, lids, chlorinators and a host of other products that needed repair. Basically, it was cycolac chips that are the same as what was used to mold the tank or associated parts of the same product and you simply needed an acetone, usually MEK, methyl ethyl ketone, mixed with the chips to form the repair paste. You may want to ask some of the pool service people who make equipment repairs if they know where you can get it. As RD did say, the spot that needs the repair is in a vulnerable location for sure. We used to use the schmear on numerous occasions when out in the field. Within minutes, good as new. You may have to contact Hayward directly in New Jersey to get information on this product. There were not many people that knew about this product as it was kept pretty close to the belt..

I would just like to add that this is after any powder chemicals added, such as TA increaser (baking soda), have fully dissolved. Even better, predissolve any dry chemicals in a bucket of water before adding to the spa, particularly dry acid or shock.

Test voltages with the pump disconnected. Verify dipswitch setting for 2 speed pump. If dipswitch is good and voltages are as you describe it is a stuck relay. As @CanadianSpaTech said, it can be easily replaced by someone good at soldering, but you only get one chance to screw it up before it's new board time.

Any errors on the display? If not, it's got to be a relay or circuit board.

Because one leg of the pump is always on, so you will have voltage to ground everywhere, but no voltage between points except across the relay. Verify 240v at the spa main power wires.

The ground is the L shape, and it is grounded. It does not have a neutral, so cannot run any 120v components, but a 230v pump doesn't need a neutral. The 4 prong plugs have a neutral as well.

Any Chance there is a schematic on the inside cover or on paper attached to the back of the spa pack. Looks like the pump fuses F1 and F2 are missing and also the smaller fuse F3 that powers the circuit boards. As for the damaged heater male female connector you could cut the male end off and add spade connectors and then disconnect the female end from the circuit board and attach the heater wire directly to the circuit board in essence just deleting the male/female connection. Male end is the wire coming from the heater with the red end on it Female end is the part mounted to the spa pack the male end plugs into.

Hose clamp on the outlet of the pump is where the temp sensor for the automation is. This sensor will need to be replaced.

Ok you need to use a spoon.. yes a spoon and dig away the yellow foam. Don't worry about replacing it when the repair is finished. Remove as much as you need to find the leak. You need to see the leak and trace where it is coming from then we can advise you from there. Let us know From your earlier photos and description I was under the impression the water was coming up through the hole in the T handle where the red clip is.

I don't know, I've never tried to not replace a cracked thru-wall flange. I don't expect great results, but caulk is a better choice. Get epoxy on those threads and you'll be sorry.

I have a 1988 CalSpa and it has two of the "serviceable type" gate valves; of course those also stopped sealing back in the 1990s. I did buy replacement gate valves at Ace Hardware on the corner (before I had Internet to find stuff) after one simply broke/stuck in the closed position, so the spa was unusable. I transferred the guts from the new to the existing ones, the holes lined up perfectly. Anyway, I never touch those gate valves nowadays. I routed the plumbing out of the cabinet to overcome the sucky CalSpa design, and use two new rotating valves on each side of the out-of-cabinet filter.

@RDspaguy I prefer Diva 💋 .... and it's NEVER my fault Want more drama... There is a 678% chance you will have to tip the spa on it's side and take the bottom off the make the full repair. That's what she said... I'll let myself out Bush fix $30... full repair by a Tech if you have to have movers in to stand up the tub and lay it back down again post repair... $1000 + But that's CDN $ so...

https://www.geckodepot.com/fichiers/documentsProduits/GDA/en/Techbook_in_xe_EN.pdf pages 43, 44 are you sure the sensor connections off the heater tube connecting to the board is good. The sensor connector is tiny and can be hard to attach. Or remove it and check for bent pins off the circuit board. Verify water level is high enough, filters out until issue is fixed, check for partially closed gate valves, When you power the spa up does the main 2 speed pump start in low speed and you have water flowing in the spa with normal pressure. The sensor needs a good flow rate of water from the pump or it will throw an error. Check the face of the pump for blockage. I've pulled everything from kids toys to t-shirts and G strings out of the front of the pump. Are the pump returns in the foot well clean/clear of debris?

Are you sure it's the board? The first thing to do is pull the filters and see if that resolves the issue. If not, then start by testing the flow switch with a multimeter. Make sure the flow switch is functioning correctly. The flow switch should complete a circuit when water is flowing past it. Unplug the sensor, put a multimeter across the 2 wires set to test for continuity, the meter should read an open with no flow and shorted when water is flowing.

Now bush fix... pull the T handle out of the valve and 2 part Devcon plastic weld epoxy the hole. Pack it in there and plug the hole. Epoxy is sticky and messy and you have a very short working time so have everything ready to go. I am assuming it is leaking thorough the handle and not a crack in the valve body. Downside.. you have to make sure the slice valve part of the gate valve stays in the up position so as to not block flow if it drops. It should stay up without the handle attached but... Might have to remove the pump so you can get something inside the pump union and make sure the slice is held up. Get the epoxy deep enough it might hold the slice part up...forever. If you do a bush fix and it works great if it fails no biggy and go back to plan A... full repair. Let us know how it goes.

Yep, That T fitting scares me where does it go and what other rigid plumbing is attached to it we can't see. As we say in Canada...might snowball

No. You should purge with Ahh-Some. Your chlorine is immediately combining with contaminants in the water, then the ozone is doing it's job and oxidizing the chloramines (combined chlorine). You have a contaminant buildup in your spa. This buildup forms a slime inside of the pipes that is chlorine resistant and will use up your chlorine as soon as you put it in the spa. Ahh-Some purge is designed to remove this buildup. @dlleno, care to explain in detail? To be VERY clear, ozone IS NOT A SANITIZER. It does not treat all of your water, only what flows through the one pipe at the injector. It is an oxidizer, like non-chlorine shock, meant to eliminate chloramines and chlorine. Mineral purifiers are also not sanitizers and do not kill contaminants, they interfere with cell division of single-celled organisms, so slow the spread of contaminants but do not destroy most of them. Chlorine is still needed after each use to sanitize the water by destroying contaminants. Dichlor is nearly 50% cyanuric acid (cya) which is a chlorine stabilizer to slow UV deterioration from sunlight. Once your cya exceeds 50ppm you are binding your chlorine in cya and it cannot sanitize the water, which is about 15 of your 3ppm chlorine treatments. Liquid chlorine is recommended for heavy use and infrequent water changes. I use dichlor, about 2 tsp after each use, and drain my spa every three months to avoid cya buildup. Please read the dichlor/ bleach method at the beginning of the spa water chemistry forum for more details.

Yes, you can certainly do that. Just note that pure CYA dissolves very slowly so could take a few days to show up in the test kit, though perhaps at the higher water temperature it will dissolve more quickly. Technically, you'll be getting more consistent disinfection and oxidation levels from day 1 (assuming at least some of it dissolves quickly) compared to Dichlor-then-bleach where the first days to week when using Dichlor start out at higher active chlorine levels and then decline to the steady-state level when you switch to bleach. This should be somewhat less harsh on hot tub covers, swimsuits, skin, etc. though it's not for very long relative to the time between water changes so not a big deal. The purpose of Dichlor-then-bleach is largely for simplicity since Dichlor dissolves so quickly and many people already have it if they were doing Dichlor-only previously.