Leaderboard

Do you live in an area with sub zero temps? Get a wet dry shop vac and get out as much of the dirty water out that you can. Don't worry about scrubbing it just yet. Just a light cleaning to remove any debris and algae from the seat pockets and foot well. Then fill the foot well area with water just up to the seat and leave it over night to see if it is going to hold water. Note where you fill it up to. If it holds water the continue filling it up so the water level is above the highest jet. Remove the filter and leave it out until you are sure the spa is working as it should. Just make su

Hello RDspaguy: This is very typical. We have seen so much worse than this. You are correct, you MUST remove the filter(s) while purging or two things happen. The water flow is greatly diminished and the purge is compromised and second, the filter(s) do their job and clog up quickly if the bio-fouling is present. People have to read the instructions. They usually use too much gel to do the job as well. The good news RD is that hot tub owners are beginning to listen. Manufacturers and dealers are beginning to mention biofilm more often and are not as afraid that doing so will decrease h

Hello Epic Cajun: We need to be certain as to exactly what you are describing. Foam is drastically different from bubbles and mean different things. Here are possibilities. Yes, you may have had remnants of the bio-purge break loose from the bio colony as some of the gunk was somewhat loosened during the purge but not totally eliminated. Any residual Ahh-Some in the plumbing would be so small an amount that it would not be a contributing factor. Water pressure may have pushed this out into the tub and it can cause foam. If the bubbles have a brownish/gold hue on their perimeter this is p

It's to get a fresh reading of water temperature by circulating through the heater where the probes are located.

alright, finally after having to wait for my part. I finally got the straight-tube replacement heater. The shut-off valves don't do a good job of really cutting off water flow as when I started to disconnect the pipe, more then the normal amount of water that would be in the lower area started gushing out. I had to drain the tub as a result to finish the job. Anyways, the new heater resolved my problem. I did a test to confirm the ohm reading of about 10-14 ohm's and got that reading. Now, it is all back together. Just doing a spa flush, and refill as I wanted to clean out the pipes.

The problem is with the board. Sometimes you can reset the spa and it will work for a while, but it will come back. It is not an issue other than aesthetics, so if you don't want to pay for a new board, it won't hurt anything. The board sends the signal to the display, and typically it happens so fast, you don't see the blinking numbers. The board is sending the numbers much slower, so now you see them as they are sent.

Most have an electric heating element. Some more inexpensive brands use recovered heat from the pump. Some permanent/combination pool/spa types will use a boiler, which can be oil or gas fired and some tubs have a wood fired boiler.

Never seen that before. Would be leaning towards the topside LCD screen malfunction but who knows. Would have to plug in another topside to verify. Perhaps post a short video.

It seems like you are shanelessly promoting your own website to increase traffic. Your username is adam and the website is owned by Shelly Addams. Maybe this isn’t the case but your only posts have been directing to that website. Maybe you know your stuff, but people aren’t coming on here to just be pointed to another website. Instead of using your website link just answer their questions. I could of read this wrong but this is what it seems like to me.

Mrs. Big Mack - sounds like you know how to suck !!!!

Page 7 Here: https://s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/static.wm3.se/sites/536/media/308018_Artesian_Allegro_manual_2007.pdf?1565862614 You need a Balboa MVP-200 topside May Manufacturing = Artesian Spas

Let's see... New York, Buffalo, Cleveland, Detroit, Chicago, Milwaukee, Minneapolis... You're right! You DO live above a meth lab!

Being Canadian is like living above a meth lab.

Thanks to the advice received here I new have a fully functioning Hot Tub again. Many thanks.

Kchottub: Free Chlorine levels, or (FAC), ideally should me maintained on an ongoing basis. Of course this level will diminish periodically and increase as you add more chlorine. Free available chlorine is standing ready to oxidize or kill pathogens introduced into the hot tub water from numerous sources. It will rise and fall much of the time. The main thing to remember is to never let it get to zero or you will lose the protection free available chlorine affords the hot tub users.

Hi Kchottub: I realize that you have purged the tub twice already. Question: Have you removed the filter(s) when purging? I assume you have been following the instructions and NOT overdosing the Ahh-Some gel. More will not work better or faster. The gunk you mention can be just about anything that has been introduced into the tub. However, to me, it does sound like you need to do another purge. If the gunk is from a biofilm formation, which it may or may not be, there are cases where the slime layers peel off from the colonization similar to an onion peel, layer by layer. I reco

It also depends on how quickly the spa loses heat when it's not in use but kept covered and there are several factors that can affect that such as how well the tub and cover are insulted, how efficient your heater is, and the ambient temperature, as @RDspaguysaid. You might find that it takes less electricity to maintain the heat in the covered spa between use than to heat it up from 80 or 90 degrees when you want to use it. The heater will only come on when the temperature drops and it takes a lot less energy to heat the water a couple of degrees to maintain the temperature than to heat it

You can used either liquid pool chlorine, which is 10% OR 12.5% sodium hypochlorite, or use household chlorine laundry bleach such as Clorox, usually 5.25% or 6%, as long as it is not scented, thickened or splashless, or has any cleaners or detergents in the formulation . The ingredients might list water, sodium hypochlorite, sodium chloride (salt), sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, and (for laundry bleach) polyacrylic acid (used to prevent soil from redepositing back on clothes and is also the main ingredient in many polymeric pool and spa clarifiers so the small amount in the bleach will

It is a product that requires 3 to 5 ppm chlorine or bromine along with a non chlorine shock. Their website doesn't really explain what the product does except make the water silky so it could be anything. They imply it helps break up biofilms which would put it in the same category as such products as Aqua Finesse. The ingredients are not listed either. These are red flags that tell me to stay away! The SDS only lists sodium carbonate (which is pH up) as the only dangerous ingredient. The SDS for their purge lists plain ordinary borax (sodium tetraborate decahydrate) and a quaternary surfacta

Update. I took the circuit board out and removed the two relays that were connected to the heater. One of them was stuck closed. I ordered 2 new relays and will hopefully have them back in the board in a couple days. Thanks for everyone's help!

Does the deposit feel rough? If so it's scale deposit. Since it's very hard to lower CH I suggest lowering the TA. Does it wipe off easily? If so it's just scum. Mostly likely because of your high CYA you are not maintaining a high enough FC level. 1 ppm is WAY TOO LOW for a CYA of 100 ppm. I would suggest a drain and refill and then do dichlor until CYA is at 30 ppm then switch to bleach. Water in a hot tub should be changed every 3 to 4 months anyway so it's time if you orginially filled it in December.

The air is drawn into the water with a venturi, which is part of the jet internal. If they are removed, there can be no air drawn in. The ball is a check valve to prevent water from leaking out of the air control when the jets are off. Bad "seals" would mean you couldn't turn off the air completely. Water in the air lines up to the water level is normal. Depending on plumbing, it could also hold water when the spa is drained. Are you not getting air flow on just one of the air controls, or all? Old deteriorated jet internals, bad or missing jet o-rings or seals, multip

Thanks, @cranbiz, I appreciate the support.

Entitled millennial is my guess @RDspaguy. @Tplem Maybe you should read a few posts here. The same requests from the pro's that come on here are always the same, start a new thread. Post pictures of the equipment bay and wiring diagrams. Why? Because same symptoms are different fixes between different manufacturers and even the same manufacturer due to model changes and as already stated, these guys come here freely to help and we don't need to waste their time making them reread the post, which may be multiple pages long, to see what the clues they got before showed them. Sorry, if

On the display, if the word "power" is constant and the temp is going up, its heating. If "power" is blinking, then you have an issue. The word "ready" will appear once the water temperature is within 2 degrees of the set temperature.

Here's the thing Tim. We are volunteers, taking our free time to help other people. You expect us to read this entire thread, just to find out wtf you are talking about. I, for one, won't do it. Sorry, but I have my own life to live. If you want some help, start your own thread and explain your issue. Include as much info as possible and pics of controls and equipment.

Perhaps you should educate yourself a bit more in the field of water chemistry before posting. You obviously don't understand the pros and cons of different chlorine sources and when to use them. My question for you is if you don't use bleach are you using dichlor and if you are are you testing your cyanruic acid level? Also, not sure if you are aware that the poster is using bleach as an oxidizer in a bromine tub to activate the bromide bank and not as the primary sanitizer. Finally, are you aware that bleach is the same as liquid chlorine (sodium hypochlorite)?

Fortunately I was able to tighten the bolts either side of the leak. They were loose and joint was larger at the bottom than at the top. I've carefully tightened them so now the joint is closed and parallel. No more leaks. Just the pipe to repair once the PVC cement arrives. Many thanks for your help it's very much appreciated

Borate is not a necessity but it does make maintenance easier, has some effect at preventing biofilms, and also improves the 'feel' of the water on your skin (hard to describe but everyone that uses borate notices it). Borax is better for raising pH than sodium carbonate since it can raise pH with minimal impact on TA while sodium carbonate tends to make the TA go very high (which is useful if you are using trichlor which tends to cause both pH and TA to crash). FWIW, needing to raise pH in a spa is very unusual. Most spas have a problem pH rise because of the aeration so you are one of t

Will it cycle off? Are there any errors on the topside? Do you have a multimeter? Unplug pump and check voltages on high (red) and low (black) speed to common (white) and verify that they are switching properly. Turn off power before unplugging pump.

Start your own thread. Include any errors and pics of your equipment area, leak location, and circuit board.

3D printer?

It's not 'corrosive'. You (and many professionals also) seem to confuse water with a low calcium saturation index (calculated from the CH, TA, pH, Temperature, and some other minor factors with water being 'corrosive'. IF you have a plaster surface pool or spa water can be aggressive and affect the plaster but it has no bearing on acrylic, fiberglass, or vinyl poos and spas not does it have any effect on pool pumps and heaters. If the pH is too low (below 7.0) THEN water can be corrosive to such things as pump seals, plaster surfaces, and metal parts in the pool or spa. but it has nothing to d

https://www.hottuboutpost.com/lx-pump-wet-end-56wua-4hp-lx56-2-inch-mbt/

Another one!?! It's a Canadian population explosion! You guys need to have a g2g (get together) at Kurt's place and drink a few. (They have beer up there, right? And not just in popsicles?) (Probably maple flavored.) (That would go good with chicken and waffles! Do they have waffles in Canada? Probably hard to mix the batter with frozen ingredients. And I don't think chickens can live in the arctic. Maybe goose eggs are freeze proof? 🤔) Sorry, just thinking out loud...😉

5 mins is about how long it takes the heater to fire up so I would start there by disconnecting the wires from the circuit board and give it a try. Where are you located?

Sensor overheat from low flow condition. Remove filters. If it continues, check circulation pump operation. If that is good, test thermistors.

from my experience, a whole lot!

Perfect! However, you will need to do a bit of trial and error to determine dosing levels so add the amount you think is needed to raise the FC to target and then test to see if you are right. You can make adjustmets until you zero in on how much to add for a specific FC level in YOUR teb. for every 100 gallons of water adding 1 tablespoon of: 5.25% bleach will raise FC by about 2 ppm 6.0% bleach will raise FC by about 2.5 ppm 8.25% bleach will raise FC by about 3.3 ppm 10.0% bleach will raise FC by about 4 ppm 12.5% bleach will raise FC by about 5 ppm so I w

The disk looks like it's a broken off piece of a bromine floater. Absolutely remove it and yes, you'll also want to ditch the Eco Pur two stage filter and just use the same type single stage filter the other side uses. The Eco Pur filters clog quickly, starve the circuit pump, and are expensive. For these circ pump/low flow applications I recommend Pleatco brand filters as their open core design allows more water flow even as the filter media clogs over time. Good luck, spokanespas.com

As a scientist, I will say that the heat loss is greater per unit of time when the heat source (the spa) is more different from the environment. So - unless you're on a "demand" type of electric rate, the least overall amount of electricity would be used when the spa temperature is lower. For example, 6 months of the year - Arizona summer - I don't add ANY heat to the spa, we used to use this as our "swimming pool" when the kids were little. Compare your question to how many minutes per hour a home air conditioner must run when it's 115F Arizona-hot outside as compared to when it's 80F

The heater relay is one of the two at the bottom to the right of the heater terminals connected by a black wire. They do have exposed connectors and can be tested for continuity. Turn off power and all relays should open.

To my knowledge everything from 2006 is still available.

You only need to add enough DPD powder to get a pink color that does not fade out immediately. If the color does not hold add another scoop. The DPD is merely and indicator showing that a halogen (chlorine, bromine, or iodine) is present. The number of drops needed to neutralize the halogen by the FAS (Ferrous ammonium sulfate) is counted and multiplied by the chlorine or bromine equivalent, IF you are testing bromine you are done. IF you are testing chlorine you then add R-0003 (potassium iodide) to convert the combined chloramines (which don't register) into iodine compounds that do and

I suspect this might be a better match. The setup allows a thru hole in the socket and you still have a handle. https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ratchets/socket-ratchet-sets/sae-metric-go-thru-socket-set-21-pc-62305.html

Looks like a 12 point socket to me. I would take it apart and see if you can get the bulb out without it. Do not touch the glass on the new one. The oil from your fingers will destroy the bulb. Use the foam that it comes with to hold the bulb.

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupt... it is a type of breaker that will trip and cut power instantly if water and electricity come into contact. It is code in North America. Here in Canada that spa with all it's components would require a 60 Amp GFCI. I am still curious how this became a problem...after 12 years? Is it possible you just never noticed before? Did you have a different issue and had the board repaired and this came up recently after that?. Hope this was your issue and it's all figured out now. Regards

No. It it a single 16 amp service, If it is a single 16 amp A2 HAS to be in down position. If it is a dual 16 amp service a single 32 amp service or 3 Phase... A2 in the up position will allow heater to run with pump on high. See attached GL2000 53258-03_97_A - Copy.pdf

I did to cycles with ah some and changed out the pressure switch. And I'm in business!! no errors. Got my water balanced back out and we are back to enjoying the tub. Thanks.