Leaderboard

I figured out the issue!! The red wire from the flow sensor had gotten slightly pulled out of the sensor bar on the control panel. After resetting it to where it is making contact with the pin, the tub is now heating and throwing only the cool code (water temp is 56°). Thank you for the help.

With the help of an electrical engineer, we dr-soldered the relays which revealed the part number which I used to order the new relays. They'll be here next Tues. What a relief this was., I was ready to condemn the board a couple of times but with the suggestions of those who replied to this discussion and insisted the board could be repaired, I'm now spending $20 instead of $459.00! I will report back as soon as the relays are installed and the tub is powered up and heating. Thanks again to everyone that replied.

Just an update, decided to mess around with this today and everything went smooth as silk. Ran the 6/3, 40 amp breaker/GFCI outside, pulled the jumper and switched the dip switch and everything is running a-1. Ran a quick jet cycle and heat stayed on so looks like we're all set. Thanks again for the help!

Thank you for the great trouble shooting guidance. I will do that over the weekend. The circ pump seems to be working and I suspect it is the flow switch but will see how it turns out... Thanks!

Partial progress... replaced the terminal block, snubber and the burned wires today and fired it up. The display turned on, both pumps work... Thank you CanadianSpaTech for your help to get me running again! Now, the partial part - I have a FL1 error on the display and the heater does not turn on. All I had time to do was clean the filter, which did not help... will do some more trouble shooting and will try to purge air over the weekend. I only know FL1 is switch stuck open or dirty filter/air pocket so need to research a little more.

Looks like the flow switch was the issue. Thanks for the help.

Update, April 17: So far, so good, no leak. However, even though I drained out 98% of the existing water that February day and tried flushing out the "dead volume" with fresh water, there could still be some of the hardened leak seal chemical "in place" doing its job. So more time is needed...

perfect, thank you! Ordering now...

I have a client who's an electrical engineer and I asked him if he was interested in replacing the relays to which he took me to his garage and showed me his soldering station! So, that was a yes. Lol. I'm ordering the relays today and will report back with the results of the board once repaired. Fingers crossed! Thanks.

Phospates are a useless measurement. They are trying to sell you phosphate remover, which is not needed since phosphates are normally not the limiting factor in algae growth. As far as the other results go, how are they testing and did you get a computer printout? Pool store testing software is optimized to sell you as many products as possible. This is how they make money.

Thanks for replying Yes Indeed it did and is now heating and working perfectly I assumed after the initial 30sec firing it had shut down permanently I gave up left it, to find out later it was heating, happy days wife used it today all good.

Thank you very much, Waterbear. I have Lamotte test strips now and a 5lb bag of DudaDiesel granular boric acid coming today. My plan is to keep TA in 50 to 70 range, make sure pH is 7.6 to 7.8, then add 0.5 pounds to my 325 gallon tub, then test and add more if necessary.

Here would be the test to find the bad relay. (After you replace burnt black wire connecting the 2 relays) With power to the board and heat light solid place one probe on the left coper heater relay and the other on the open tab on the top black relay... do you get 240? next test at where the black wire connects to the top relay... do you get 240? next test where the black wire connects to the bottom relay.. do you get 240? then test the open tab on the bottom relay... do you get 240V. Follow the power and where it ends is where the bad relay is. You can do all that but in reality I would be replacing both of the relays. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oiQBBHtejMA&t=294s

If it's a relay, relays can be sourced from Amazon and replaced. If you can't solder, you should be able to find an electronics guy that can. I would replace them all while it's being done. New relays will refresh the board and in the overall scheme of things, are not expensive. If it's a trace on the board, that can be repaired with a piece of wire, simply jump between solid terminals that bridge the break.

Enjoy

CanadianSpaTech - Thanks again for all your help!! I did find a Circuit Board repair shop in town - unfortunately, they wanted $250 to replace just the two relays that were bad (not to mention the others). I did end up getting a decent price on a new VS504SZ Board as an exact replacement of my one that was blown. Got it installed this afternoon and everything is up and running again! Guess I took the long expensive way around (new heater, new top controller, and now new board) - but on the plus side - everything is new and should last years; and if it breaks again I've learned a bunch thanks to your help! With any luck I may even get to enjoy the tub tonight - although it's pretty cold in Utah and the tub water was down to low 40's... Might be tomorrow.

For pool the suction valve for pool should be on and spa should be off the return valve for pool should be on and spa should be offl for spa the suction valve for spa should be on and pool should be off the return for spa should be on and pool should be off If your spa is a spillover spa that spills back into the pool you would have the spa return valve on and the pool suction valve on (all other valves off). this is your current setting according to your description of the valves but the picture shows that you have both pool and spa returns open and also the waterfall and the pressure side cleaner return. The pressure side cleaner line does not have a booster pump so it was probably for a Polaris 360 cleaner, which is the only one I know of that does not require a booster pump (there might be others on the market but I am not aware of any). Having the pressure side line open is fine. it just become another return. If you do get a cleaner then close the returns so only the cleanier line is open, have the waterfall and spa returns closed, and have the suction side set to pool. Waterfall should work when you have the pool returns running. The

I am plumbing my own pool, this will not be the first pool I did my own after the shell was sprayed. The main drain and Spa drain are 3" diameter. I am planning to reduce them to 2" to match the rest of the system. Has anyone ran 3" and why did you? The Pool/Spa together are 32' x 20' with a 7' sundeck. I am planning two pumps. Thanks

If you have a technical problem with your spa your best bet for a solution is to START YOUR OWN THREAD with YOUR info, not piggyback on something similar. There are 2 reasons for this. First, most of us volunteers who help people here don't have time to read through 164 replies to get the background info to answer your question. Most of us simply skip those threads and do not bother to reply. And second, it gets very confusing for everyone when 2 different conversations get going in one thread, and advice gets given to and taken by the wrong person. So, if you want help from our experts, start your own thread. Include details about your situation, and pics of equipment area, circuit board, and wiring diagram. @waterbearcan you pin this?