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Looks like the LCD is failing. Unfortunately, the electronics mfg they used from Q3 2009 - Q2 2012 did go out of business and the displays are no longer available. Unless you can source a used one, a new control panel and control box + software are what will be needed. Probably looking around $1,000 in parts plus you will need the software from your dealer

If you have a technical problem with your spa your best bet for a solution is to START YOUR OWN THREAD with YOUR info, not piggyback on something similar. There are 2 reasons for this. First, most of us volunteers who help people here don't have time to read through 164 replies to get the background info to answer your question. Most of us simply skip those threads and do not bother to reply. And second, it gets very confusing for everyone when 2 different conversations get going in one thread, and advice gets given to and taken by the wrong person. So, if you want help from our experts, start your own thread. Include details about your situation, and pics of equipment area, circuit board, and wiring diagram. @waterbearcan you pin this?

Right here in Omaha Ne! My hot tub is broke, need advice on how to repair it. Lol

Hello thank you for your answers ! Once again, I can count on the community. This forum is great! Have a great holiday season

On this Thanksgiving morning I am thankful for CanadianSpaTech as my spa is fixed for $25 thanks to his recommended process of things to check. I replaced the left sensor without draining the spa and didn't even get wet as only a half cup of water came out before I could screw in the new one. The old one looked brand new but obviously not as it powered up went to 100 and stayed overnight. I put a trash bag over the board just in case it did spray any water but it did not. CST if you send me your address I'll send you a proper Alabama thank you! Roll Tide!

Pappy always told me "You will never get rich working for someone else". I make more just showing up at my first job then hourly techs do in half a day. I have the freedom to book jobs for when I want and the freedom to avoid them until it is convenient...lol.

I normally run 4- 6 cross supports with bracing and have the spa sit on the wood and the gravel is backfilled to level with the top or the wood. The gravel locks the wood in place but what you have should work.

EEK... Yes to the bad board, HOWEVER, I had a similar issue where the touch screen topside was blowing that fuse. The one below it is the same value, and runs peripheral lights and salt systems and the like. Unplug the spa side controller, (Touch Screen) , swap fuses, and re boot. If she holds, then you need a spa side controller. If she blows, the transformer is bad, ....Board...and you need 2 fuses.

Well, according to the wiring diagrams provided, the OP does not have to wire in 2 GFCI breakers to run the panels. He can do it with 1 100A circuit and a 100A GFCI. He can also opt not to run the slave heater and run just a 50A circuit. Of course, the swim spa will heat much more slowly than if they use both heaters. I believe that 2 50A feeds will provide some redundancy as a failure in the slave panel probably won't take the entire system down. While it will cost more to run 2 50A circuits, it won't be much more than running 1 100A circuit.

Just thought I'd follow up. Ace Cell needed replacing. Glad I ended up buying some salt strips because the salt level was waaaayyyy too high. Drained and refilled the tub and put a new cell in. So far it's working great and I haven't seen any flakes coming out of the bottom vent. I'm very happy with the cell I got off amazon which is apparently made by "The Hot Tub Wizard"

Love my 2019 Jetsetter - best three seater in the industry! That looks like your screen is burning out - could be due to water/moisture, or just the age of the screen. The tough part is going to be finding replacement parts. If I'm not mistaken Watkins/Hotspring had an issue with a supplier going out of business and they had to completely rebuild new parts which are not cross compatible with each other. You may be able to get a replacement top-side panel cheap, but I think you might have to replace the entire spa pack if you want to go new. Some people sort through hottub junkyards and ebay to find replacement parts, other people have successfully removed the screen and replaced just the LCD panel (I seem to recall the screen used the same display as an older HP PDA device, but that's a long shot to find the exact part and have the skillset to solder dozens of pins on the panel). Personally I say if the screen display works sometimes and you can still use the spa without the display, just do that for now until you need to replace it or the whole tub.

The tubing goes to the floor drain suction fittings for the vacuum brake. If you blow into them you will see air coming out of the intake fittings. There is a diaphragm flap that opens up when the floor drains are blocked. This keeps an entrapment from occurring. When the diaphragm deforms, the water will seep up the vent tube, and eventually start a siphoning process. Extend both of the tubes above the waterline, and it should solve the problem.

Dirty filters

For questions like these, I like to dig into Google Trends to see where topics are most popular. There isn't enough data for Hotspring Spas to get much useful information but if you search for Jacuzzi or hot tub, you can see which states search the most for the topic - you can even dig down to the county & city level. It's a really under-appreciated tool Naturally this data isn't foolproof, but I've used it many times over the years to determine interest for specific products. https://trends.google.com/trends/explore?q=hot tub&geo=US https://trends.google.com/trends/explore?geo=US&q=Jacuzzi

That is an LX pump wit a tendency to have the face of the impeller shear off, and grind itself to a horrible sounding death. Count on replacing the "Wet End" This is of course without actually being there. You may have also sucked in a toy, or bypass valve or the like. Either way, the gate valves can be closed with the power off, and you can loosen the front union to see what the deal is.

Generally speaking, Hot Spring, Caldera, Sundance, Jacuzzi, Bullfrog, Artesian, Marquis, and Dimension One are all regarded as premium brands. That being said, you need local representation or the brand is irrelevant. I would also probably consider Saratoga Spas since they are made in upstate New York. Decent brand that not many people outside of the Northeast know about. As for dealers, not sure really how close to you they are, but Apollo Pools & Spas in Lakeville is a great company (I know the owner). Mainely Hot Tubs and New England Spas are also good dealers. What kind of budget are you wanting to work with?

Yep, circulation pump. Ordered another, I'll update in a few days. Thanks Mike😁

If anyone else has this issue, it turned out to the be the controller board. Just one relay was bad. Replaced the board with a new one from backyardplus and it works just fine again.

Sorry I'll Delete my comments and start a new one

Amazon usually has replacement relays. Peel the white label off of the relays to get the model number

kksiazak, It is not as difficult as you think it is right now. First, this thread should be in the water chemistry sub forum. If you look there, there are very good threads on running your hot tub with either chlorine or bromine. Look for them at the top of the page (stickies). Chlorine pucks are not recommended for hot tubs. If you want to continue with chlorine, you should be using either dichlor granules or the dichlor then bleach method (which is what I use, as do many other members on this forum). Using dichlor granules alone, will cause a buildup of cyanuric acid which will require you to change your water more often. Take a read over there and you will have a better understanding of the principles of water chemistry and the use of sanitizers.

Felt more like $.04

Just got the replacement board delivered today. I just finished swapping it out and that was the culprit. Everything powered on and now working normally with the new board Thanks for the help everyone!

D12 Controller unplugged is a bad spa side, and or board. Check for damage of the ribbon cable.

Crazy I just posted the exact same issue the other day regarding the exact fuse lol. Let us know if the board works for you. I would hate to spend that kind of cash on it and it not be that.

No spikes that I can recall. I have a new board ordered and should be here Monday. I’ll probably pull the old one out sometime this weekend to have a look. Thanks!

Any recent power spikes? A spike in power can cause damage quicker than the fuse can protect. You might want to pull the board (likely has to come out anyway) and have a look on the back for darkened or burnt areas

Is it a new install or has it been running up until this issue?. If a new install confirm the incoming power wires are in the correct positions in the block. If in wrong locations it could send 240 to a transformer expecting 120V and blow the fuse.

That board has an issue with the transformer plug wearing out the traces behind the board. If you find moving the 4 pin plug while "hot" makes it boot...(Clicking noise), then that's the problem. I cannot recommend touching anything in a live controller. so don't do that.

EEK... Yes to the bad board, HOWEVER, I had a similar issue where the touch screen topside was blowing that fuse. The one below it is the same value, and runs peripheral lights and salt systems and the like. Unplug the spa side controller, (Touch Screen) , swap fuses, and re boot. If she holds, then you need a spa side controller. If she blows, the transformer is bad, ....Board...and you need 2 fuses.

I would use rockwool insulation over pink. Place in garbage bag and tape it up or just pack it in there. You could also use rigid board insulation around the perimeter.

Yep, better off with 2 breakers if using the slave heater.

But when we role up on one that has, and all of the jets are leaking, ALL of them,...... it's going to be a bad service call. Don't know about you, but I don't have time to re-plumb a spa from the ground up. Hell, no one can tell me what parts I need now.

Your a life saver. Thank you my friend. Runs like a dream now.

The male connector that connects the pump to the pack you posted has considerable heat damage. What does the female connection on the board look like? Pull the board and look on back for burnt relay

He is local to me so I sent him to my guy

Shouldn't be using Trichlor in a hot tub.

I found the part # and description, Still don't know what the stuff is yet. 22212-000-001 SQR LUBRICANT SPRAY BOTTLE 1 QT ALL SQR PRODUCTS 22212-000-005 SQR LUBRICANT PAIL 5 GAL ALL SQR PRODUCTS

Good news is I disassembled the pump and motor and managed to figure out what the problem was. Main problem was the starting winding on my electrical motor was not connected to power due to an improper contact. Once I fixed the electrical contact problem, the motor started fine every time. The secondary problem was the impeller tail end was rubbing against the wet end housing seal creating additional resistance to the motor starting. I managed to fix that by installing the impeller on the motor shaft first and only after tightening the 4 bolts that connect the wet end to the motor while making sure there is as little resistance possible to the motor shaft rotation. Thanks a lot for all your help and troubleshooting suggestions!

@RDspaguy Done! (and thank you!!)

I have a Softub motor that is available if anyone needs it. I’ll let it go very cheap. Backstory on it is someone paid me to tear down their Softub (the dogs tore it up). They said it worked fine but was an eye sore with the torn cover. After dropping all of the styrofoam and other pieces off, I decided to keep the motor in case someone needed it as it is still working and shouldn’t be thrown away in my opinion. Let me know if you are interested!

I fixed it. I removed the panel, all the goo, removed the circuit board. The 2 buttons are those metal circtuit board type buttons, but the have one surface mount solder point that had fallen off. I did my best to solder them back on, not much on the circuit board to solder to. it now works, but not sure if that will last. That soft goo-ey silicone was everywhere, even under the buttons, not sure how all that works, first time seeing that stuff saturated everywhere.

I typed this prior to RDSpaGuy and somehow didn't hit send. Sounds like a bad relay. Relays can be replaced by someone with soldering experience. No need to replace the board if it's just a relay. If you are not comfortable doing this, a shop that does electronic repairs can do it for way less than replacing the board. The relays run 8-10 each on Amazon, refresh all of them for under $100 in parts and the shop might charge $125. If you do end up going the board route, I would just buy a replacement Balboa pack with topside. It will upgrade you to a more modern pack and could be less than replacing that board like for like.

You might be surprised once you enjoy the benefits... sleep better, sore and aching joints and for me it takes the tension out of my body. I walk with the aid of a cane and I can work all day but once I stop everything tightens up and can be very uncomfortable. I can sit in a hot bath for an hour and it does nothing. A hit...or 2 of the devils weed (legal in Canada) and a 20 min soak in the hot tub and I can relax. I can feel my shoulders drop as the pent up tension is released.

This. By putting it in the ground you have made it an inground pool, which requires a bonding grid by code. You should have put it in a concrete pit, with no earth contact anywhere but the bottom, in which case it is still an above ground and does not require bonding. The inspector is not mis-interpreting the code, you changed the designation by backfilling. It's a technicality, and not actually necessary in this case, but it is the code. Nowhere does the material of construction change the bonding requirements. But this is your biggest concern. If you think digging a trench for electrical is a problem, then you're going to be hating life when you have to dig the spa out to fix it. Remember, warranty does not cover access, so if it doesn't work when you first turn it on you'll still have to pay for removing it for access, even though the "repair" is under warranty.

Unfortunately, you are at the whim of the inspector. Local codes can be more stringent than NEC. Metal or plastic conduit? In general, NEC says you need to bury PVC conduit 18". 8" depth is required for EMT (hard metal) conduit and 24" depth for direct burial, unprotected cable. What is the material used for the spa? The inspector is specifying grounding based on a conductive surface, in which concrete is considered conductive. If the shell is fiberglass or acrylic, the inspector is interpreting the code incorrectly and you may have an point to discuss. If there is any conductive material on the shell, the inspector can require the ground system he said you need. Your electrical contractor should have known this as the conduit depths are well known.

Thanks for the reply! It's raining today, so I'll update tomorrow. The hot tub is built in to my deck with the motors and circuitry under the deck, so I have to crawl under there to get pics.

My experience is when the chlorine cartridge gets to low, the tub starts to get a bit funky. it's almost like the chlorine distribution slows to the point that there isn't enough residual chlorine to properly sanitize the tub. But because it isn't completely empty, I can't just throw it away. Why are you replacing the mineral cartridge on every fill? It's not used up. Replace it after 12 weeks. I also use the Taylor kit. I can't get good readings from the test strips, especially on PH and TA, the range of colors isn't enough for me and the fact there is only one shade for chlorine and that I found that it's almost always indicating change the cartridge when the chlorine levels are still in the good range on the Taylor kit. As long as the chlorine level is between .5ppm -1ppm, you are good. Because the Frog system uses Dantochlor, some of the Taylor tests will be inaccurate, like CC and FC. However, the PH. Chlorine level, CH, TA tests are more accurate with the Taylor kit and I just don't check for FC and CC. CYA of the Frog system should be 0 or close to it. Dantochlor does not add CYA but the Frog kick start does (as it's Dichlor). What CYA Kick Star adds is so small that it's negligible. I'm sure that King wants to sell more overpriced test strips but they suck IMHO. I also buy from Amazon. There is not a huge difference in cost between Amazon and my dealer but Amazon is more convenient as my dealer is 90 miles away.

What are you doing these days, if you don't mind me asking?

Post pics of circuit board, wiring diagram, and equipment area. Depends on the control system and equipment. If pump 1 water flow drives the heater and safety devices it would still only turn on the heater (and ozone if present) when pump 1 is running, regardless of where it's plugged in. You have not confirmed it is the pump until you disconnect the heater and ozone. And even if it holds with those disconnected it still could be the breaker. The fact that it did not trip when plugged in to the blower plug (probably wired at a different voltage which failed to activate a safety device, and caused the loud noise) would indicate it is not the pump. I'd guess faulty breaker, loose wire, or ozone if it's using balboa controls as I suspect. Add the heater to the list if not.