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That's what she said.

should have used Stopcock grease on it...lol

Do NOT google that...lol

Post photo of the topside. Try #1

Nitric acid in the ozone tube from an undersized mazzei. Gets sucked in, coating everything in sticky yellow gunk and foaming like crazy. You know darn well I'm no chemist my friend. Elemental bromine? You give me too much credit.🫡

Chemical and ozone damage do break down styrofoam and cause it to hold water. You can order just inserts. You can dry it out and re-wrap it as long as it is unbroken. It's a band-aid, but can buy you a year or 2.

I would verify none of your hi-limit resets have popped. Red buttons on the side of the black control box. I would also replace that circulation pump IF the spa is able to heat. That pump is likely tired and barely keeping up if it's original. Your heater should draw somewhere between 8-12 amps when ti is actively heating. I use am amp clamp to check amperage readings. Again, at your skill and comfort level. Make sure your heat dial is turned up so it "calls" for heat. Not a tone more I can help with without being there. You're on the right track. The problem lies where the power dies. Lastly, you may have a door interlock switch that will kill power to the entire equipment compartment when the door is opened. Those interlock switches are relics of the past and not needed. I always bypass them without issue. If it has one and it has not been bypassed kill the power, strip the wires back and test them together with a wire nut or something else appropriate. You have now safely bypassed that switch and the spa can be worked on while running with the door open. Lots of free help here, Ken. You better not screw this up. lol

final update ... got the board back w/new relays ... pumps now working as expected ... thank you everyone

👍

The ozone circuit should turn off for 30 minutes, or perhaps until the next filter cycle, any time ANY BUTTON is pressed. Are you sure it SHOULD be on when you are testing?

Leisure Products Inc (LPI) is the manufacturer of Dr. Wellness, Hudson Bay, Pinnacle, Signature and a couple of other hot tubs and bought Catalina a few years ago. Aqua Living is the retail arm (franchised) and sells Dr. Wellness, Hudson Bay and Catalina. They are made in Johnson City, TN but as others have noted, they buy the cheapest materials, use a 1x3 (non treated) stapled frame and the shell is cradle supported and one of the thinnest shells around. Unfortunately, you learned the hard way on LPI's quality and lack of responsibility in warranting their product. I'm very sorry that you are having this experience.

Pump 2. In their defense, I too would assume stuck relay first. I'd have had you test it, but then I'm a repair man not a parts supplier, so... The chicken/egg scenario is real, in that you can have a bad pump or relay cause damage to the relay or pump. That's why I test stuff. That said, new control, then pump, then new control again should pretty much cover it. Not 100%, but you're into some pretty low odds. So, if it's not the controls and it's not the pump, it's either the wiring or a flow restriction. I'd still test the controls and pump independently, because that's what I do. Unplug pump and test voltages at the board, black to white for low, red to white for high. Make sure low turns off when high is engaged and vice-versa. Plug pump 1 into pump 2 plug and test. Verify pump wiring is intact and correct. I have not seen a PDC (plastics development corp I think, we called them "Piece of Damned Crap"😉🤣) in well over a decade and that one wasn't new by a long shot. Do they still have the equipment outside the cabinet under a "doghouse"? Are the valves open? Remove filters and look down the tube for debris (broken check-valve). Leave filters out for testing. Close valves, remove pump, and open valves to verify good flow from the pipes. You will get wet. Post results and pics.

The funny thing is, they glue it over a 2"pipe, so, aside from an inch or two of head, it serves no purpose that 2" cannot. It is there simply because hardware stores and most pool/spa stores do not stock it, making you more likely to call the dealer for service.

Yes, on that board, putting the circ pump to an always on connection will give you the same issue as shorting/by-passing the flow switch with the power off actually.

Thanks again, Got to start from scratch somewhere. I do have to ask these questions I am as always over engineering, but I like to do this then things last. Currently got it all working and now building in the RGB lighting and soundproof casing for the pump with inlet and outlet for airflow.

Not quite sure what you mean "breaks down electrically" - do you mean it trips the breaker? Did this start happening after a change to the tub such as wiring changes? Try removing the three filters, does the problem persist?

Aaah, I didnt know about the winterizing plug.... I was just using a plumbing pressure test plug from the hardware store. I'll look for the winterizing plug as a temporary fix so I can at least use the spa until I can get all the PVC fixed up. Thanks so much for your detailed answer.

I have never used lube. I like to go in dry 🤣

Lol yep they will. Being a subsea design engineer I want perfection so will design a mount so the pump is mounted to the ground and does not touch the frame of the hot tub aside from the pipes. As for blower I did think this. Not sure what to use the blower unit for now. Thanks for all your help on this. My new jets arrive tomorrow and new slightly bigger filter come too. I will be adding my own lighting system inside and maybe programming the RGB leds the way I want them too.

Took a good look today, and there's enough copper left to do a decent board repair. Will need to epoxy a new terminal in for enough stability to push the relay on. Went to get a new relay, the Omron relay has been obsolete for a while, and out of stock at my usual suppliers. There's one on eBay in Montreal for too much money and $30.00 shipping, and an Arctic store in Edmonton that wants $40.00 plus who knows how much shipping. Discouraged, I took a hard look at a Global motherboard that should work with my existing sensors, but at close to $700... and I found out it won't fit in the metal box that the Global/Genius 3000 is in. And an Ecopak (same board and new sensors, in a plastic box) is close to $1200, and I'm not sure about the motor connectors... Also, the way these boards fry, not sure I want it in a plastic box After a head-shake and resisting buying a new board, I found that Potter & Brumfield have a compatible relay for about $10.00 locally. $10.00 seems a bit better than $1200. I may continue this project tomorrow, will post updates.

In my experience it will not and must be cleaned and have the mazzei, tube, and check valve replaced. And this stuff is extremely sticky and thick. A dealer I used to work for had this problem with a batch of new tubs when the manf switched to a "high output CD ozonator" but were still using the mazzei for the old style. Went round and round with them since we got the first shipment of these and so nobody else was having issues yet. They said it was chems and refused warranty until I sent them a clogged mazzei tube. Bigger (higher flow rate) mazzei and no more trouble. In theory, an extended flow restriction (greater than the mazzei itself) in the ozone return line could also cause this. Post pics of equipment area and I'll direct you.

I'll check when I get home but are you sure it's metal electroplated onto plastic? The only reason why I ask is because in the second picture you can see that there are little tabs that are bent inwards to "hug" the plastic body which leads me to believe that it's just some type of sheet metal that has a electroplated finish on it. I think this makes the most sense because correct me if I'm wrong but I don't believe a chrome finish by itself will rust.

Missed that the tub had ozone. You're probably right! You hold your own pretty well! Elemental bromine can form when the pH drops very low (which it looks like it did). It can color the water yellowish to brown and can stain, similar to Iodine. Has a sharp odor similar to chlorine and iodine. Toxic, similar to chlorine and iodine.

I honestly though you were crazy for replacing the switch with a new one where I though it just needed a new coat of Teflon tape so I decided to apply some and retread in the old switch and just when I was about all the way in the threads sheered from the switch. Luckily I had a screw out, screw extractor set so I was able to unthread the broken part out but lesson learned. Always buy a new switch.

There's the clue we needed. This is called boil-out and is caused by a stuck heater relay on the board. This can be repaired by any competent electronics/computer repair shop for much less than a new board. I'd recommend doing all of the relays while they're at it. They're a few $ each, labor is most of the cost and you can do alot in an hour.

You will need a good soldering gun that can generate a lot of heat to de-solder the factory connections.

Every jet I've seen either unscrews, turns to unclip, or has inside clips. I don't recommend prying, but if you do make sure you lift opposite side simultaneously to avoid breaking the face. Materials deteriorate over time and it can be nearly impossible to remove them without breaking some on older tubs. If parts aren't available anymore then you're doing some plumbing. I junked a flip tub recently for that exact reason.

As long as it is flat go for it. Around here they sell limestone screenings by the 30kg bag. you could lay down a bag or 3 to fill in any uneven spots

Try to find a local cover MFG and order from a local company. Cover Warranties are the biggest joke out there. Most warranties are pro rated and you will likely have to ship the cover back to the MFG (not dealer) wherever they are located on your dime. Likely for close to what you paid for it if you have to use a FED x type service. If you can find a local MFG then at least you can drive it yourself. Most claims would be denied anyway if you read the fine print.

Aeration. Aeration raises pH, not TA. Adding bicarbonate or carbonate raises TA, Acid lowers TA Aeration raises pH by gassng off CO2 so TA does not rise with the pH rise.

They make great raised-bed planters. Fill-er-up and grow some veggies.😁

Impossible, borax will raise pH, not lower it. How much did you add? Are you still testing with the K-1005? TA will not rise on its own. It was probably the results of the borax you added previously. Borax has minimal impact on TA when compered to the sodium carbonate sold as pH increaser but it will sill cause a rise in the TA. How much acid did you add? How many gallons is your spa? You CANNOT add all the acid at once since it will often lower the pH dangerously low and can cause damage to the pump, heater, and other parts and can cause elemental bromine to form in the water. Read this to properly lower TA and to explain what happened when you added all the acid at once. It's the ONLY way that works! https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/28846-lowering-total-alkalinity-howto/ Read this for basic info on TA and pH. https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/52522-some-truths-about-ph-and-ta/ TA will change with pH and the pool calculator is not an accurate way to determine the amount of acid to lower pH since it can cause a very low pH conditions. Acid needs to be added in small increments with aeration between additions to lower TA. I suspect the very low pH you created cause elemental bromine to form in your tub. Get some sodium thiosulfate (photographer's hypo) from a photo store that sells darkroom chemicals or from an online retailer such as Amazon, Walmart (yes, they have it online only, The Chemistry Store, or a pool store (sold as a chlorine neutralizer). Get it in powdered form, either anhydrous or pentahydrate form, and dissolve 1 tablespoon in a pint of warm water and spray on the stain and let it sit for about a minute to see if it removes it. Rinse well and drain again before refilling or the thiosulfate will neutralize any sanitizer you add until it is depleted. The stain is similar to an iodine stain since they are in the same chemical family, along with chlorine and fluorine. It sounds like your floater might be open too much and is keeping your bromine levels too high . What was your bromine reading when you tested high pH? If it was low or nonexistent I suspect the DPD test in your K-1005 bleached out because of high bromine levels (which is why I prefer the FSD-DPD test in the K-2106 and k-2006 since it does not bleach out at high sanitizer levels up to about 40 ppm for bromine or 20 ppm for chlorine, you can buy a stand alone FAS-DPD test kit from Taylor Technologies, which will essentially convert your kit to a K-2006 (only the pH test would be different, the one in the K-2006 had better precision). You can also dilute your sample before testing. Dilute 1 part spa water to 1 part distlled water (tap water can contain chlorine which will change your results), test the diluted sample and multiply the results by 2 to get your sanitizer reading. If it is at or above 20 ppm (bromine scale) the you pH test will not be accurate. The reason I ask about sanitizer levels is high sanitizer levels (above about 10 ppm) WILL cause the pH test to read high since it will convert the phenol read indicator into bromphenol red which detects pH between 5.2 - 6.8 which means that if your comparator read that the pH was 8.0 or above all you really know is that the pH is 6.8 IF you have a way to measure 50 ml of water you can add 1 drop of reagent R-0007 (sodium thiosulfate) to the 50 ml sample, fill the pH comparator with the sample, and test again. If you still get the very high pH reading you will need to wait for the sanitizer to drop before testing pH. I suspect it is a stain from the elemental bromine that formed due to very low pH in your water. Keep in mine that I have not tested your water nor observed it or your tub or the stain so I am basing this on my knowlege of chemisty (not just poo/spa water chemistry). Is the Ahhsome spray removing the staining? If not try the sodium thiosulfate, it's not expensive. Don't give up. I am here to help. If need be I will walk you through it again. It's really not that hard and you have been though some mistakes that you certainly won't repeat. Read my answers a few times since there is MUCH information in here explaining some of the testing "errors" you encountered. Most of the information I proved about testing came from the Taylor Technologies website regarding DPD testing and pH testing.

What you describe is most likely a flow issue (filters, circ pump) but could be a relay or transformer on the board. Probably not a sensor. If I had to guess, I'd see if removing the filters solves it then try new filters if so, and put in a circ pump if not.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Christy-s-Red-Hot-Blue-Glue-8-fl-oz-PVC-Cement/1065071

Yes they can and do get waterlogged. My first Arctic spa had a metal cabinet, it was replaced under warranty with a spa that has a cedar cabinet, and they moved the lifter over to it. After the cover got waterlogged, a house guest was a bit too strong for his own good and the lifter damaged the cabinet. I got a new cover and it was fine for a while. The design of the Arctic Yukon really limits the options for mounting a lifter, but I finally found one that will work and it screws into a totally different area. It's been on my list since Dec. but I finally removed the old one, and am repairing/re-staining the cabinet. Maybe I'll get it installed before the snow flies.

Only do this if you know you have moving water from the heating/filtering related pump or if the heater is disconnected from the circuit board or you could have a meltdown. The flow switch protects the heater from firing if there is no water flow. It will boil the water that is in the tube not moving and can go nuclear in seconds. If you can see the shaft of the motor spinning but not moving water then an air lock is likely. If it is not spinning then test fuses. If fuses are good then disconnect the pump from the board and test for power coming off the board using a multi meter. If you get power off the board then you have a pump issue. If you don't it is a board issue. Let us know results

Yes, Toto and Dorothy lived on the farm which may be the final resting place for the spa. Perhaps another tornado will relocate it at some point in time. Only thing I know about Canada is how it was named. Seems the folks living there could not agree on a name so they all got together and drew letters from a cloth bag containing all the letters of the alphabet, announcing each letter as it was drawn. It went like this - (first letter drawn) "C, eh?"; (second letter drawn) "N, eh?"; (third letter drawn) "D, eh?". Thus their country was named! 😄🤪 (A Canadian gentleman told me that story at a music festival I attended several years ago.) Ken in Kansas

No, they don't. A pressure switch is adjustable by pressure, and some really old school flow switches (D1 air pump systems for example) are by flow rate, but nothing in the last 25 years. Even those were open/closed with nothing in between.

Answered on that other forum.

Really... No wonder Kansas is such an s hole...Just kidding I'm from Canada and the only thing I know about Kansas is that's where Dorthey lived...lol

Remove the heater tube as shown above. Remove the sensor on the left side. Back off the black nut and just push the sensor up with your finger. Back off the 2- 3/4 nuts and the element will drop down inside the tube. Pull the element out (needle nose pliers might help) and then work backwards to reinstall the element. As mentioned above make sure the 2 o-rings remain seated in the grooves as you position the element back up into place. When tightening the element I will place my finger in the right side of the tube and VERY IMPORTANT hold it centered in the tube so it does not touch the side wall of the tube. I tighten the left 3/4" nut first and then the right side. I look down the tube to make sure it is not touching and centered in the tube.

It's a piece of 3/4" conduit for speaker wiring - it does not need to be plugged off. That cavity is for optional audio transducers. Your leak source is elsewhere. Possible rodent damage.

How did you jump the flow switch? And did you jump it with the hot tub breaker on or off?

Where? Not in any spa information, certainly. Opening your air controls is all it takes. Everything you add will have a ph/alk effect as well, from sanitizer and shock to foam-gone.

The flow switch cannot be simply jumpered in these, the system checks for both open and closed. A flow switch is on or off. Zero ohms or infinite ohms. Anything else is a bad switch. If sticking a hose to the filter intake causes it to work then it's likely a flow issue. I'd check the circ pump.

Really appreciate your helpful response. Sounds like I'll bite the bullet and get it replaced since our tub is in fine condition. Thanks again!

You will need a 4KW or 5.5KW offset heater element. Should say wattage on the sticker on the heater tube.

Only replace the element inside. it will cost around 50$ for the piece. When you change it, be carefull about the little 2 new o-ring on the new, also clear as much you can when you remove the old element, its okay if a little bit of orange left. The oring are inside and they are what matter the most. (Tight the 2 nuts very tight)

If mine, I'd definitely try to take it apart and repair/seal. I'd even use automotive cooling system gasket/RTV in a tube, like used for thermostat outlet sealing.

Dichlor increases CYA at an even faster rate than Trichlor so you should not be using it unless you are intentionally trying to increase the CYA level. Also, when accounting for the actual amount of chlorine (FC) you get, Trichlor is less expensive than Dichlor, even accounting for the pH Up you need with Trichlor. You cannot compare product costs by weight since they contain different concentrations of chlorine. See this post for a cost comparison of chlorine sources. Generally speaking, chlorinating liquid or bleach are the least expensive, Cal-Hypo is close (sometimes cheaper, depending on where you get it), then Trichlor, then Dichlor and finally Lithium Hypochlorite which is very expensive. Remember the following chemical rules of fact that are independent of concentration or size of pool: For every 10 ppm Free Chlorine (FC) added by Trichlor, it also increases Cyanuric Acid (CYA) by 6 ppm. For every 10 ppm FC added by Dichlor, it also increases CYA by 9 ppm. For every 10 ppm FC added by Cal-Hypo, it also increases Calcium Hardness (CH) by 7 ppm. You should read the Pool School for more information about managing your pool, as well as the appropriate FC level for the CYA level that will prevent algae growth without the need for a supplemental algaecide or phosphate remover or regular shocking. Because most of the chlorine binds to CYA, the FC alone does not tell you what is safe to swim in. There are pools in desert areas managed by pool services that use a high 100 ppm CYA level and bring up the FC to 14 ppm each week so that it ends up at around 4 ppm the following week when they come back. As high as 14 ppm FC sounds, in the presence of 100 ppm CYA it is technically equivalent (same hypochlorous acid concentration) as 0.13 ppm FC with no CYA which is far lower than found in most indoor pools (which typically don't have CYA and have 1-2 ppm FC). The only issue with high FC would be if you were to drink a lot of water -- something that you do not normally do with pool water (and even then the EPA limit is 4 ppm FC for drinking 6-8 quarts every day). If you want to prevent algae in a pool using Trichlor where the CYA climbs and you aren't proportionately increasing the FC level, then you should use an algaecide or phosphate remover without fail, such as PolyQuat 60 weekly. If you use a copper-based algaecide, then you should be careful not to overdose or let the pH rise too high or you can get copper staining, especially in plaster pools. If you use chlorinating liquid or bleach as your primary source of chlorine, then you will need to add it every day or two unless you have a pool cover in which case you could add it twice a week. That's what I do, adding 12.5% chlorinating liquid twice a week to my 16,000 gallon pool at around $15 per month and that's it with crystal clear water and no need to shock the pool because the FC/CYA ratio is consistently maintained above the required minimum. The pH is very stable so I only add a small amount of acid every month or two. I also added 50 ppm Borates to the pool this year (didn't have it for previous 6 years) and like it -- it slightly lowered the chlorine demand, is an insurance policy since it's a mild algaecide, and seems to give an extra shimmer to the water (probably due to lowering water surface tension). Richard