Cusser

Many spas are hardwired in, like mine is (1988 CalSpa). Back then these weren't even required to have ground fault protection, I installed my own GFCI, and I use that to disconnect from the electrical source, as my circuit breaker box is outside the fence on the other side of the house. They just want you to be safe; I guarantee that if you have a plug-in spa that when it's unplugged you are safe. If one does disconnect at the breaker box, one can add a padlock there as a lock out, tag out protection.

Let's just say that so far (two weeks) the SOLID BRASS lamp chain is holding up TONS better than the antique-brass one did (that lasted a couple of days at most before it broke in several places due to deterioration).

Have you thought about replacing the GFCI ? Can you post a photo, or a link to the photo so we can see what it looks like? My spa element looks like this, and available at Home Depot. If mine had that issue I could temporarily set up outside the water chamber and run a jumper wire from the threaded part to the spa and see if it tripped immediately.

Are those the ohm readings after you removed them from the spa? Because those numbers sound good.

Great work.

I have an above-ground pool with vinyl liner. About 3 years ago I had a brand-new liner installed by same installer who did the pool originally in 2000. Noticed a leak near a seam, a depression in the sand at the bottom which was growing. I bought a swim mask and used food coloring, actually saw the food coloring get sucked through the seam. My daughter and I drained the pool, there was a hole at the seam you could fit a 1/8 inch dowel through. My daughter and I patched over this seam, and it has been leak free since. Liner manufacturer refused to honor warranty (supposedly like 30 years) unless I cut out bad area, cut out area with Sharpie-written serial number on it, and send to them for evaluation. They claimed they practically never had defects, but refused to honor mine; they refused to have one of their local dealers take a look "in place". Anyway, I told them I'd tell the truth on all Internet forums I could find, and ONE lost customer would cost them way more than a liner. So they compromised, I had to pay $40 shipping but now have a new liner in the closet, became more of a thing of principle. So the patched liner is still installed.

Is poor grammar safe for kids? Is a bathtub safe for kids?

Try running without a filter. When my filter got a little clogged up, did not build up enough pressure to activate the pressure switch, so that's how I troubleshot mine. Washing didn't help, I bought a new filter. And a back-up one, online.

I bought an inexpensive chain at Home Depot claiming it was "solid brass" to try. If that doesn't work, I'll try the nylon fishing line line suggestion I saw on Google.

I have a stupid question about a pool thermometer; in fact it's so stupid that I'm posting almost the same question in the Spa/Hot Tub Forum. I'm in Arizona, and everything I've tried to tether a thermometer to the side of my pool degrades pretty quickly due to the sun and/or the chlorine (I use a floating dispenser and 3" tablets). In my hot tub, I use bromine tablets, and the "tether" is not exposed to the sun. I've tried polypropylene thin rope, trimmer line, cotton thin rope, even a brass-like chain like used on a ceiling fan. I've bought several thermometers over the years, and the tethers on them amazing degrade just as fast. So I'm open to suggestions as what you folks have found to be sturdy over time in the presence of chlorine, thanks.

Look at the pump itself, should state whether it is 120 VAC or 240 VAC. I believe that the pump on my CalSpa is 240 VAC, not just its heater.

I've bought a lot of stuff from HomeDepot.com, have you looked at these hot tub/spas, they start at $2000 and have very good reviews (covers may be additional) https://www.homedepot.com/b/Outdoors-Hot-Tubs-Home-Saunas-Hot-Tubs/N-5yc1vZcfz2?Ns=P_REP_PRC_MODE|0 One can also at time of purchase contract with Home Depot to install this, they have contractors who work only for them, and that way the entire job, including wiring is covered by one source. We had French doors ordered through HD and had HD do the install for that reason, went very smoothly.

I watched your video, and I don't agree with rftsr's post about ditching your tub. Yes, I think that the light fixture is leaking somehow, and getting down to the white foam insulation where you see it. You could drain lower than the light fixture and then see if that area remains dry. My spa also has that blown-in insulation, and if your Alaska climate doesn't make this impossible, after the repairs I'd push flexible foam into the open spaces as insulation instead of spraying in more expandable foam....would make any future repairs much easier. I have a 30-year-old CalSpa, and I've had leaks and fittings that have needed repair, including a slide-type knife valve that broke in the closed position and I couldn't even open up to operate the spa. The water losses I've had in the past didn't really bother me with loss of water, just figured that my redwood parts would rot out. And I've also used Seal-a-Leak successfully for leaks which I could not find that might be in the side 6" away from the house.

Hoping for you !!

Hmmm - my spa drain was (originally) a male garden hose fitting; if yours is similar, maybe a new cap and washer from Home Depot could seal ? Or screw on an on-off valve? Anyway, since I also have an above-ground pool, I also have a small submersible pump, and I have also used that to drain my own spa, quicker !