Cusser

For what it's worth: my current spa cover is by Sweetwater Spas, and I found a link for those here http://www.hottubworks.com/ShopBySpaBrand/Sundance-Sweetwater_Spas_hot_tub_covers.php

Well, I've gone through at least 4 covers for my 1988 CalSpa since new. My spa sits under the patio, protects it from summer sun, and from rain. The current cover was in the back room of a pool supply company, they'd purchased a couple dozen covers of assorted sizes/colors, was a real bargain too, like $150 or less. Replacement time is getting closer due to aging of the vinyl, not because of waterlogging. My spa has a "holder" on the one side so I no longer need to lift the cover off and put on the ground, so prevents damage. If I was in the market for a cover, I'd consider HomeDepot.com, can look at the customer reviews there, plus have the cover either delivered to the store for free, or to your home. And 90 day return policy free from the store, and if damaged just don't take from the store. https://www.homedepot.com/s/spa%20cover?NCNI-5

If it doesn't lose water with the cover on, then it was the cover.

My 1988 CalSpa (220 VAC, 40-amp) had only GFCI on the light when we bought it brand new. Maybe a decade later I added 40-amp GFCI inside the cabinet for the entire unit, after reading about that in Popular Mechanics magazine. I guess the safety requirements have tightened up since then. A couple of times since when my heater element (a hardware store type) corroded, I had the GFCI trip. And since then I've got a real shut off for the entire system out at the spa.

Same for automotive industry, etc., etc., etc. !!!

Are you sure that CalSpa is part of Watkins ? I'm not so sure.

I was thinking of tapping/threading in a pressure switch into a hard plastic pipe, something like this. And some are adjustable.

I have a 1988 CalSpa, and I've had to adjust the pressure switch a couple of times, pretty straightforward. Did you try running without the filter cartridge in place? For mine, I did find that replacement pressure switches are still available, as well as universal types I could add.

You might need to get that online, too bad the earlier post did not include a link. I don't know if a real hardware store or plumbing supply store would stock these. pump union split nut here https://www.spadepot.com/Pump-Unions-C716.aspx Yes, the broken part is a large "coupler nut", and likely you should add a new O-ring - if there is one - at the time of repair.

Wow - my 1988 CalSpa is in tons better shape, but I'm the original owner (Arizona). And sorry - my spa equipment package is different, so can't really help there.

Call the dealer that sold it or the manufacturer tomorrow. 1 855 838 3888 If it has to be at a certain temperature to operate, then the instructions are substandard because should make that known.

No, I just run for a few 30-minute intervals, just because the pressure through the lines is higher when my jets are running. If the leak is actually in the shell/basin, then this cycling would not be needed. On my 1988 CalSpa, all I know is that the leak is not visible inside the equipment panel doors, no water there. I've actually pulled off the two accessible sides and torn out some spray-in insulation - a huge mess - and couldn't find the leak there. The 4th side is less than 1 foot from my house, so not accessible. So I don't know if my former leak was in the plumbing lines or the basin itself. Next time I get ambitious, I think I'll try some marine epoxy over a few basin cracks, even though I have no idea if these are just surface cracks or not. Folks let the spa sit for a few weeks and see if the level stabilizes, to get an idea how high the leak site actually is.

I use Seal-a-Leak about twice a year, for about 4 years now, on my 188 CalSpa. If this Marlig stuff is similar/same as I suspect, here's what I do (CAPITALS): 1. Do I leave the filters in or take them out. TAKE THEM OUT 2. Do I just run the recirculating pump or do I need to run the jets I RUN THE JETS, YOU WANT WANT GIVES HIGHER PRESSURE, AS YOU DON'T KNOW WHETHER LEAK IS IN HIDDEN PLUMBING OR IN THE BASIN 3. After the leak seems to have stopped Do I turn the hot tub off and let it sit for 24 hours or so. I CYCLE THOSE JETS FOR AT LEAST 12 - 24 HOURS; NO NEED TO LET IT SIT LONGER 4. Once the curing time has passed do I need to drain the hot tub and refill it. I DO, THEN I REPLACE THE FILTER

Well, first thing would be to determine how many amps the pump and heater draw. My guess is that 10 amp would not be enough, would trip the circuit breaker on the side of the house. There's a reason that 20 amp dedicated is recommended. I think the only real way is to get a new 20 amp breaker installed in the circuit box, and dedicated new wires run. And maybe hard-wire the spa instead of using the 10 foot cord. If it's a rental, you want minimal issues anyway. If fuses instead of breakers, way outdated !!!

1. Post some pictures 2. Are there any screws to take this apart? Might be some simple hardware store washers that need replacing.