Cusser

I installed the dedicated 20-amp breaker and the wires through plastic conduit along the wall to the backyard pool, then added a GFCI receptacle there (which you probably won't need because you have 1 or 2 GFCI cords). Cost will be dependent upon how long the distance is from the breaker box. I might estimate about $200 for an electrician, just a wild guess, but easy job for such. For my 220 VAC spa: in 1988 a professional electrician installed two new breakers into the box, ran the wires up to attic through conduit, across the entire house, then down through conduit and wired to the spa (that cost about $200 in 1988 dollars). A decade later I added a GFCI breaker inside the cabinet myself, didn't have one back in 1988.

That new GFCI cord might be more sensitive than the previous one. Do you mean the GFCI trips, or the breaker in the breaker box trips? Why did you need a longer GFCI cord if yours was reaching before? I think the real issue is that you are not on a dedicated circuit for the hot tub (I know, some folks get away with just plugging in on the patio). I even installed a new 20-amp breaker into my breaker box and ran a complete dedicated line for my 110 VAC above ground pool.

I have a 1988 CalSpa, and kept having trouble with leaks at the filter assembly and cracking of its rather expensive giant plastic nut. Worse was that there was essentially no room to lift off the filter cover to get it out of the cabinet so the filter cartridge could be cleaned. So a couple of years ago I decided to buy an entire new filter assembly of a different style, and I routed the water flow OUTSIDE of the cabinet to that filter, and then back into the spa. I added shut-off valves on both sides of that filter. This is all on the hidden side of the spa, enabled me to keep having the spa. Can you post good clear pictures here of your situation, maybe draw red arrows pointing to your problems there, I'd like to take a look, maybe there's something you could do.

That's the way I understand things for 240 volt applications such as some spas and clothes dryers... But wait for someone more knowledgeable to respond.

Triple check for a leak, that might only happen once the water warms. Maybe your GFCI is doing its job correctly.

I have a 1988 CalSpa and I routed the water path out of the cabinet to an external cartridge filter (and back) which makes stuff so much easier !!! The factory filter housing was difficult to remove the top housing due to clearance issues, and the giant plastic nut kept breaking (over $20) and I continually had leaks at the O-ring. So that has worked for me. I added shut off valves on both sides of that new filter. I have never thought about moving the pump externally; I did need to replace a "wet end" seal on it over a decade ago. On my CalSpa, the water path is pump-heater-pressure switch-filter.

I'm a degreed chemist. Once the pH Decreaser dissolves, the acid-base reaction is very quick - less than seconds - IF THE WATER GETS MIXED. So turn on the circulation pump and/or jets, let it mix 10 minutes and it would be fine to test. If the chemical doesn't dissolve readily, manually agitate or stir like with a cheap broom with the circulation on. Rinse off the broom afterwards.

Sounds like you "threw parts at it" instead of troubleshooting. Call a repair service.

Sounds like the barb may have been glued in. Oh well....

The port at the top might just have a plug/block-off screwed into it, ignore that at this point. To me, it looks like there's plenty of access to get to that busted-off male hose barb. At hardware stores there are tools called "nipple extractors" (trust me on this one, I know nipples !!!) for extracting these. There are different sizes (no jokes here !!!), get a set or one that fits. These tighten in, and then you extract the broken part. Also, a plumber could do this if you'd rather pay. You should NOT have to re-tap the broken part either, it should come out; it likely was installed using some pipe dope or PTFE/teflon tape, you just need a nipple extractor to grab it...

I have never used or had soft water in my CalSpa, 30 years with it now.

Can't be that many gallons; wait for a warmer day, drain, flush the plumbing, re-fill.

Well, would be much better to see a good picture of the issue. Working blind, I'd drill a hole and use an appropriate-sized screw extractor. If one uses left hand drill bit (really), sometimes that itself will get suck fitting out.

Continuing from my earlier post, I used TygerClaw Ceiling Mount for 23 in. to 37 in. Flat Panel TV https://www.homedepot.com/p/TygerClaw-Ceiling-Mount-for-23-in-to-37-in-Flat-Panel-TV-CLCD102BLK/206443951 https://www.homedepot.com/b/Electrical/N-5yc1vZarcd/Ntk-tagger/Ntt-ceiling%2Btv%2Bmount?NCNI-5&Ns=P_REP_PRC_MODE|0

I'd try marine epoxy, should be waterproof.