RDspaguy

Drain lines can be a problem on a HS, but the fact is the foam used is closed cell and tracks water and there's a sheet of plastic on the bottom that causes it to mostly hold water. If it leaks faster than it can seep out under the edge, it comes out right there as it fills the bottom. The leak could be across the tub. You're going to have to go digging, maybe block it up.

Wow. So helpful, on this 2 year dead thread. Let me ask you, since you're such a pro, how exactly do you replace an IQ pack with a balboa? Waiting. Still waiting. Gonna be waiting a long time for that answer, aren't I? But then, you wouldn't know, would you?

I dropped a mention to our pool experts. Hopefully one of them will have some advice for you. I'm inclined to recommend you frame out and pour concrete walls inside of your existing wood walls. You'll have to get creative with the skimmer, but I see no other solution that doesn't involve digging it out. Who buries wood behind a pool liner? That's an intentionally temporary pool. I can't imagine doing all that work just to put biodegradeable materials in the dirt. It's just stupid.

Did you say wood? @Pool Clown, @jimmythegreek

It wasn't leaking because it's a suction. Turn the valve off and it will leak. Have to plug the main drain too. @Pool Clown

Never seen a jet like that. Sorry, but I think there's some plumbing in your future.

Nope. I think that about covers it.😉

Little black dresses, bikini tops, necklaces, small critters🤢, birth control devices🤮 ... Sorry, I thought we were talking about stuff we've removed from spa pumps.😉 Carry on...🤣

What were the readings? Why remove the board? Did you secure the nut beneath the heater tab before loosening the nut on top? Be sure to do so on installation as it can twist the terminal post and crack the seal, leading to heater failure. If it's not a sensor... Do you have good flow from the heat return? Remove heater tube and look inside for scale/debris. One sensor is very close to the element, and a buildup connecting them can lead to a sensor error.

It's resistance changes with temp. It will be in the thousands of ohms. What matters is that both are the same. Google "balboa sensor resistance chart" if you are wanting to know exact.

It's either a flow restriction or a sensor/heater issue. What is that brown spot on the left side sensor wire?

Never heard of them. Post pics of controller(s), equipment area, circuit board, and wiring diagram.

Sorry, I'm not familiar with any red light on a Sundance. How old is it? Do you have the manual?

Does the other pump work as it should? For me, the first step is to isolate the issue by testing voltage to the motor while it is behaving erratically. If voltage is steady, it's in the motor. But this behavior could be a control or main power issue as well, in which case voltage will change or switch hi/low at the board. Exact replacement, or the cheapest that fit specs? These pumps do not have a good reputation.

Maybe. This is an old proprietary system so it may be different, but typically a balboa system will throw a flo code before turning on anything if it's a shorted flow switch (solid flo). Easy enough to check with a continuity tester. Unplug it and test at the plug. It should be open with the circ pump off and closed with it on.