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RDspaguy last won the day on July 5

RDspaguy had the most liked content!

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  1. Happy birthday America! And me! Officially over the hill now at 51 (me, not America). Chillin', grillin', and blowin' **** up! Have a good one, and be safe!
  2. Just scrub a spot for starters. If you see it's coming off, keep at it. I wouldn't let either soak, or you may create more problems than you solve.
  3. First go-to is a magic eraser. If that doesn't work, try ascorbic acid (vitamin c tablets) or muriatic acid water (50/50), next try bleach water (1/2 cup/gallon). If those don't work let us know.
  4. Yeah, wire it ALL correctly! As near as I can tell from your pic, from left to right, main terminal block: 1) 30 amp L1 (black) H1) Heater (black) 2) 20 amp L1 (black) 3) 30 amp L2 (I think red on yours but can't see clearly enough to be sure) 4) Empty, with jumper to 5 5) 20 amp neutral (white) Then the terminal on the left all by itself. H2) Heater (white) And the ground lug on the right gets BOTH bare copper grounds, one of which has been cut off too short to reach. The jumpers slip in at the top of the terminal block. I don't see any on the new board, so you may need to get the one from the old board. All terminals are labelled, but they are blocked by the wires. The wiring diagram is easy to find with a google search if you lost the one that came with the board.
  5. These are glued and clamped, not just clamped. Looks like Christy's red hot blue glue to me, so I wouldn't expect them to let go easily. Then you're left with a stretched out glue coated hose connection that needs to seal on the first try or you drain it and start over. I'll stick with cutting and splicing, thanks. I know that will hold, and not cost much more either.
  6. Sounds like thermal cutout. This can happen if both high and low are on simultaneously, as with a stuck relay. Disconnect pump and check voltage to the pump, white to black and white to red. Only one should have voltage at a time. That is not testing the heater circuit in any way, as you will read that when it's off as well. Test terminal to terminal. Testing to "ground" is for cars. On the circuit board are a stack of led lights. Post a pic of these when the spa is shut down.
  7. That is freeze damage, and there is likely more of it than you see right now. The manifold and any directly connected fittings (no pipe in between) will have to go. The jet hoses will have to be cut back and spliced as well. Then, once it's hot, look for more leaks. Hairline cracks don't leak when the water is cold. This is a project, and a half-day of work for a pro. If you aren't confident in your ability, you might want to hire someone
  8. The white wire from the heater. The wiring diagram is on the box cover.
  9. I'd suggest you contact local dealers and check on current delivery times on new spas. You may want to fix it up even if you are going to get a new one if you want to have one this year.
  10. Not wire correctly. There is nothing in H2, and the heater common is on the main terminal block. Wire it right and let us know.
  11. The gunk comes out when you use ahhsome. I was saying to use it multiple times, until no more gunk comes out, so you get it all. One treatment is often not enough on the first use. Not condescending, just honest. Are you here for answers or coddling? The best way to solve your issue is for you to understand that you didn't understand the chemistry. Also, you are getting the benefit of my 26 years of experience for free. I charge $125 to pull in a driveway, and $100/hr on site. If you are going to thank me for something, it should be that. Save the sarcasm for someone who cares what you think. Now THAT was condescending.😁 Yes it does, which is what it's for and the reason you aren't constantly inundated with chloramine odors. Ozone is an oxidizer, like a shock, but so strong it will destroy chlorine as well as chloramines. That's only a "problem" for those who don't understand it's purpose. Get rid of it and you'll always smell what you only smell when starting your jets now. The source of your odor is likely biofilm combining with chlorine producing chloramines inside the pipes where the ozone cannot reach it. Again, I would not recommend altering the spa controls to accomplish your plan. Get rid of the biofilm, all of it, and your smell should go with it. Probably your clouding too. This.
  12. Those heaters don't have thermostats, and will heat anytime water is flowing. Using a thermostat controlled pump would cause boil-out from residual heat in the heat exchanger when flow stopped. I used one just like that on my smoker trailer and had to wire in a switch to turn it off and let the water run for a few minutes to cool the exchanger. I melted my pvc on the first set-up and ran copper with a pressure relief valve next. They are also impossible to winterize. I had my first one freeze in spite of being blown out. Now I bring it inside for winter.
  13. Yes, it should have 2 sensors that share a plug. Post pics of circuit board, wiring diagram, and equipment area so we can see what's voing on in there.
  14. Each jet is individually adjustable by turning the face. Are they open? Jets are plumbed off of manifolds, often strung out along a pump line, so the one at the end gets less pressure than the one before it. This is usually not alot of difference, but it can be. Sometimes jet lines can be kinked during manufacture. It's rare, but can happen.
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