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RDspaguy last won the day on August 2

RDspaguy had the most liked content!

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About RDspaguy

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    Spa Guru

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  1. Not many metal parts in a spa pump, but the heater element more than makes up for that if it's not the stainless steel one. What color are your filters?
  2. Just one jet out of how many? Which one? Do you have an ozonator? Are there air control valves?
  3. Lucky you! What brand, out of curiosity?
  4. Oh noooo!!! Never buy squareD! They have another one (maybe it's home depot) by Midwest I think, that is an actual sub-panel with spaces for more breakers. What brand is your main panel (in the house)?
  5. I'm not sure what you mean by pulsating jets. Please elaborate.
  6. So the pumps are 120v. Lowes sells more than one. Post a pic of it.
  7. Pressure switch turning on and off pump? I suspect it is overheating in the heater or a faulty sensor or perhaps board/transformer.
  8. You'll be fine. That plug is a dedicared circuit.
  9. You should not add aquafinesse ever. Read the sticky thread on the dichlor/bleach method in hot tub water chemistry section. Bear in mind that ozone and uv will both eliminate chlorine in your water, so shock after each use and expect low or no chlorine the next day. A new spa should be purged with Ahh-Some spa purge. After testing the spas are often stored for long periods and then shipped around the country which can result in all kinds of nasties growing inside the pipes. Clean that stuff out.
  10. Having two gfci protections can cause nuisance tripping, but presents no danger. Only one is needed. Cheapest route would be to remove the gfci plug and put in a standard, but code says the plug must be gfci. You could also replace the cord with a standard cord end.
  11. Tjr is right, it is best to do it as the manufacturer specifies. But I also understand wanting to avoid that cost. The breakers are available at home depot as well, and you may be able to use the disconnect panel from the 50 amp, depending on which you have. Can you post a pic?
  12. That is a reading of 55 degrees. The sensor resistance will drop as it warms up. The sensors seem ok. The pressure switch should close when the pump is on and open when it is off. Remove the filters. Perhaps they are clogged and restricting flow through the heater.
  13. Sounds like you're on the right track. Do you have an electrical tester?
  14. The wire size is determined by the breaker size. Doing what you suggest might work, but could be a fire hazard. I would use the 50 amp gfci breaker in the main panel and standard, non-gfci 30 and 20 amp breakers at the disconnect subpanel. That also provides the individual fusing required to avoid damage to the circuit board in the event of component failure.
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