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RDspaguy

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Everything posted by RDspaguy

  1. Sorry, not sure on that one. How big is it?
  2. Post pics of circuit board, wiring diagram, and manufacturers labels in equipment area.
  3. So, restarting repeatedly? Usually transformer related, which is the small raised part of that board.
  4. That's alarming. Turn it off. Where exactly did you hear this? Winterize it. That spa is junk if you freeze it. Lots of videos on it online.
  5. Stuck relay. Any decent computer/electronics repair guy can replace them pretty cheap. If you are going to (try to) get a board I advise you just get a replacement pack. Balboa VS systems are under $500 with new topside, heater, sensors, and extras. Should swap out without replumbing.
  6. Just adapt to 1.5" at the equipment, or use 1.5" pipe.
  7. Running a pump dry can wear out the seal, warp (or even melt) the pump housing, and burn out the motor. It all depends on how long it ran, how much water was still in the pump, and how it is plumbed. Depending on the control system, the heater could also be damaged.
  8. Or failed. Those cord-end gfci's are notorious.
  9. The blower will turn on from an overheat in an attempt to cool the water. This will show the "OH" overheat error. This error is triggered by high temp reading at the high limit sensor that should be on the heater. Low flow is the main cause of this, and filters are the main cause of that. This may disable the heater, but should not cause the blower to turn on or cause any OH error. If the OH occurs with the jets on high, and all the jets have good flow/pressure, it is not a flow issue. Check jet pressure. Otherwise, I'd replace the sensors.
  10. That's a plug-in tub? Unplug it and do the same test on the plug. Test between the two flats, then from each flat to the round (ground). If you get the same result, call an electrician. If one of the two flats has no voltage to ground replace the cord end gfci. If plugged in to a gfci protected plug you can use a standard cord end.
  11. Well, I am an electrician and have worked with plenty of 3-phase wiring before I started in the pool/spa business. I understand what you are saying, and the economic advantages of 3-phase power, but unless that control system was designed for 3-phase, you are still only using 2 of the 3 hot wires, which is the same as single phase, basically. Phase to phase give high voltage (208v in the US) and phase to neutral gives low (120v in the US). Industrial applications often use higher voltages (480, 4160, etc.) but these require equipment made for that voltage. If you were to connect a 3rd phase at the neutral connection you would send high voltage through the low voltage circuit and fry it. Simply put, if you excede the voltage rating on the equipment by 10% or so it's toast.
  12. Those are an articulated sleeve (like a toy snake) with a tube up the middle and move the same way a hose will when turned on high and laying on the ground. Low pressure means it doesn't move as much if at all. The hose has a tendency to stiffen up over time, which will also interfere with movement. If this hose is cut so it no longer reaches the nozzle on the end of the sleeve it will decrease pressure at the nozzle and interfere with the movement. You would need to replace the tube.
  13. Also, the neutral is a current-carrying conductor, and continuity tests cannot be done with voltage present. Make sure power is off while doing continuity checks.
  14. On the wire or the breaker? The neutral and ground should be bonded in the main panel, and could be in the sub-panel as well depending on how it is mounted/isolated. If the ground and neutral feeding the sub-panel do not have continuity you have a problem between the two panels or in the main panel. There can't, except through the neutral pigtail, which should be grounded via the neutral back to the bond in the main panel. The gfci looks for balance between the two hots and the neutral via magnetic field generation, so it's like a mini amp probe built in to the breaker. Any change in the magnetic balance, from a ground fault, improper wiring, or worn/wet breaker will cause a trip. They are made to trip at .005 amps difference, which can be accomplished by high humidity in some cases. But this could be a lost, or partly lost, ground or neutral wire, or a poor ground at the main panel or even transformer feeding the house. This is known to happen alot in areas in a drought, as the moisture in the soil dries out and reduces the conductivity of the soil the ground rod is in. I would look at nothing but this 60v reading until it is resolved. It could be the only problem or not, but it may damage any new parts you put in.
  15. What is a dx jet? What hose did he cut a little bit of and how is that supposed to affect the jet pressure? Post pics so we know what you are talking about.
  16. That is not done by increasing voltage. The laws of physics and electrical theory do not change based on location. Up the voltage to that board and you WILL destroy it. Ohms law: Volts = Amps x Ohms Watts law: Watts = Volts x Amps By increasing voltage across a fixed resistance you increase amps. Since everything on that board has an amp rating and will burn up from too many amps, you cannot increase voltage without destroying circuit board components. Most Hot Springs spas are supplied by 2 circuits, a 30 amp and a 20 amp, for a total of 50 amps. This is sufficient to run heater and pumps simultaneously. Post pics of your circuit board, wiring diagram, and equipment area.
  17. Sorry I missed your first post. Slam is a term and process advised on another pool forum, and is meant for pools. I would just drain and refill a spa before going through a slam. In a bromine system adding chlorine (or any oxidizer) will generate bromine from the bromide in the water. Which is fine in this case, but will result in stupidly high bromine levels, since you want to add 30ppm chlorine for algae control. Depending on the filter, it may not get the tiny particles that result from oxidizing algae out of the water. What type is it, sand, cartridge, or de? I suggest you shock with liquid chlorine (3 cups) or plain unscented bleach (8 cups) then use ahhsome spa purge as directed. Drain and refill.
  18. White (neutral) wire from spa must connect to the gfci breaker, which has a pigtail that goes to the neutral bar. Verify it is wired correctly. Any moisture inside the breaker can cause a trip, but would likely happen even under no load. Gfci breakers are very sensitive (they have to be to do their job) and are prone to failure after multiple trips. If the neutral and ground connect at any point between the breaker and the spa, from improper wiring, water, even spiderwebs with condensation, it will trip.
  19. Not sure about this brand, but many spa manufacturers do have proptietary controls built just for them. Usually it's just button differences (jet button might turn on light, or raise temp, etc) but anything is possible. The dipswitches must match the equipment.
  20. Remove filter. Check water flow. The behavior you describe is most likely a flow restriction causing the heater to get gradually hotter, as the flow is not enough to keep up with the heat produced and overheats the heater itself but not the spa.
  21. Start your own thread. Include details of your spa and the issue, as well as pics of your equipment area and circuit board.
  22. I have never worked on one of these specifically, but most LED lighting systems use controllers and splitters. One shorted out bulb can take out the controller or fuse on the board if it has one.
  23. @Cusser, why are you resurrecting an 11 year dead thread?
  24. The computer compares thermistor readings. A discrepancy of a few hundred ohms (less than one degree) can trigger errors. Pressure switch indicates low flow issues and shuts off certain components. This can be faulty parts or flow restriction (dirty filter for example). Since the placement of the thermistors is at opposite ends of the heater, and will therefore trigger errors from low flow even without a pressure/flow switch due to temperature discrepancy, this is bypassed in some watkins systems (and other) systems. Never bypass a manufacturer installed safety device. High temp readings (3 degrees above set temp) will turn off the circ pump. Watkins are "smart", but not user friendly in that every error gives the same stupid flashing light. Other systems show specific errors on the display, which makes them much easier to troubleshoot. There are 3 LED indicators on the board, "lim ok", "control unplugged", and "htr on". These help to narrow things down. Hope that helps.
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