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RDspaguy

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Everything posted by RDspaguy

  1. Happy birthday America! And me! Officially over the hill now at 51 (me, not America). Chillin', grillin', and blowin' **** up! Have a good one, and be safe!
  2. Just scrub a spot for starters. If you see it's coming off, keep at it. I wouldn't let either soak, or you may create more problems than you solve.
  3. First go-to is a magic eraser. If that doesn't work, try ascorbic acid (vitamin c tablets) or muriatic acid water (50/50), next try bleach water (1/2 cup/gallon). If those don't work let us know.
  4. Yeah, wire it ALL correctly! As near as I can tell from your pic, from left to right, main terminal block: 1) 30 amp L1 (black) H1) Heater (black) 2) 20 amp L1 (black) 3) 30 amp L2 (I think red on yours but can't see clearly enough to be sure) 4) Empty, with jumper to 5 5) 20 amp neutral (white) Then the terminal on the left all by itself. H2) Heater (white) And the ground lug on the right gets BOTH bare copper grounds, one of which has been cut off too short to reach. The jumpers slip in at the top of the terminal block. I don't see any on the new board, so you may need to get the one from the old board. All terminals are labelled, but they are blocked by the wires. The wiring diagram is easy to find with a google search if you lost the one that came with the board.
  5. These are glued and clamped, not just clamped. Looks like Christy's red hot blue glue to me, so I wouldn't expect them to let go easily. Then you're left with a stretched out glue coated hose connection that needs to seal on the first try or you drain it and start over. I'll stick with cutting and splicing, thanks. I know that will hold, and not cost much more either.
  6. Sounds like thermal cutout. This can happen if both high and low are on simultaneously, as with a stuck relay. Disconnect pump and check voltage to the pump, white to black and white to red. Only one should have voltage at a time. That is not testing the heater circuit in any way, as you will read that when it's off as well. Test terminal to terminal. Testing to "ground" is for cars. On the circuit board are a stack of led lights. Post a pic of these when the spa is shut down.
  7. That is freeze damage, and there is likely more of it than you see right now. The manifold and any directly connected fittings (no pipe in between) will have to go. The jet hoses will have to be cut back and spliced as well. Then, once it's hot, look for more leaks. Hairline cracks don't leak when the water is cold. This is a project, and a half-day of work for a pro. If you aren't confident in your ability, you might want to hire someone
  8. The white wire from the heater. The wiring diagram is on the box cover.
  9. I'd suggest you contact local dealers and check on current delivery times on new spas. You may want to fix it up even if you are going to get a new one if you want to have one this year.
  10. Not wire correctly. There is nothing in H2, and the heater common is on the main terminal block. Wire it right and let us know.
  11. The gunk comes out when you use ahhsome. I was saying to use it multiple times, until no more gunk comes out, so you get it all. One treatment is often not enough on the first use. Not condescending, just honest. Are you here for answers or coddling? The best way to solve your issue is for you to understand that you didn't understand the chemistry. Also, you are getting the benefit of my 26 years of experience for free. I charge $125 to pull in a driveway, and $100/hr on site. If you are going to thank me for something, it should be that. Save the sarcasm for someone who cares what you think. Now THAT was condescending.😁 Yes it does, which is what it's for and the reason you aren't constantly inundated with chloramine odors. Ozone is an oxidizer, like a shock, but so strong it will destroy chlorine as well as chloramines. That's only a "problem" for those who don't understand it's purpose. Get rid of it and you'll always smell what you only smell when starting your jets now. The source of your odor is likely biofilm combining with chlorine producing chloramines inside the pipes where the ozone cannot reach it. Again, I would not recommend altering the spa controls to accomplish your plan. Get rid of the biofilm, all of it, and your smell should go with it. Probably your clouding too. This.
  12. Those heaters don't have thermostats, and will heat anytime water is flowing. Using a thermostat controlled pump would cause boil-out from residual heat in the heat exchanger when flow stopped. I used one just like that on my smoker trailer and had to wire in a switch to turn it off and let the water run for a few minutes to cool the exchanger. I melted my pvc on the first set-up and ran copper with a pressure relief valve next. They are also impossible to winterize. I had my first one freeze in spite of being blown out. Now I bring it inside for winter.
  13. Yes, it should have 2 sensors that share a plug. Post pics of circuit board, wiring diagram, and equipment area so we can see what's voing on in there.
  14. Each jet is individually adjustable by turning the face. Are they open? Jets are plumbed off of manifolds, often strung out along a pump line, so the one at the end gets less pressure than the one before it. This is usually not alot of difference, but it can be. Sometimes jet lines can be kinked during manufacture. It's rare, but can happen.
  15. There are wood hot tubs, and there are wood burning heaters. I've worked on a few wood tubs, some were still slats, and they leak if they dry out but seal up once the wood swells, and one with a liner. I've only seen wood burning heaters on tv and in ads. You must use chemicals in any hot tub. Which you use can vary, but they all need sanitizer and ph adjusters. I have no idea how they maintain a wood burning spa.
  16. There is so much wrong in that statement I'm not sure where to start. I'm sure @waterbearcan explain it better, but I'll throw in my 2 cents worth. No, it doesn't. And chlorine in solution has no odor. What you smell are chloramines, or combined chlorine (CC). This is also what you smell as your jets push the unsanitized water from the pipes into your chlorinated tub. This could also have a different ph than the tub water, which could cause temporary clouding. Getting rid of chloramines is the reason we shock, but a salt cell produces such a high concentration inside the cell that it also effectively shocks the tub to a degree, depending on how long it runs at what output. By what means of testing? What levels are you maintaining? If your FC (free chlorine) is dropping and you do not have ozone, then it is being used up by combining with organic contaminants in the water, or perhaps it is gassing off from low CYA (cyanuric acid, aka stabilizer). If you have ozone you will see a gradual drop in fc without a corresponding increase in CC. If it is combining (burning off organic contaminants) it will increase CC as FC decreases. I suggest you use ahhsome spa jet cleaner, per package instructions, repeatedly until no new gunk comes out. Then refill and start your salt system. While possible, it would require a number of relays wired into the spas safety circuits to ensure it did not run at the wrong time in the spa heat or filtration cycle and damage equipment. I would not recommend it, and would not do it for a customer regardless of profitability.
  17. 1. Extension cords are discouraged because they are usually not 12awg, but 16 or 18, and can't carry the load. A #12 cord will be fine, but it would be cheaper to run a little conduit and put in a plug nearer the location. 2. Technically, spa water is stagnant in fresh water terms. You want circulation for filtration and chemical dispersion, and a pond pump will only move around the tub water, leaving the pipes free to grow nasties. It's better than nothing, but not a replacement for running the spa. 3. Since it will be off when you aren't there, I'd say often. 4. 0-3 degrees per hour, depending on ambient temp. What mountains? Freezing is a big concern in your situation.
  18. @Jamie Dalthis post is 14 years old. This guy has not been on here since 2009. Start your own thread if you have any questions for those of us currently on this forum.
  19. It's not corrosion, it's scale, aka hard water deposits, caused by calcium. In water, it is the result of high ph, and on surfaces the result of evaporation, which means a small leak. Acid will dissolve it, but can damage the heater element. If you have good flow through it, just watch your ph and let it go. If it's clogged, get a new one.
  20. Open everything, side panels, control box, motor covers, etc. and let it dry. Use a hair dryer on low heat or a fan to dry the electronics. When you think it's all dry, you're halfway dry. Keep drying. When you're certain it's dry, cross your fingers and turn it on. Buy a float valve and a clamp for your hose and never overfill again. Twice in a row, and after a $400 repair bill? It took guts to admit that. 3/4 Water Float Ball Valve with Adjustable Arm for Water Tank Pond High Flow Rate Heavy Duty Float Valve https://a.co/d/ianpSi8 You'll have to get or build up an adapter for the garden hose, and a big clamp to hold it on the side of the spa. Mr. Pen- Bar Clamps For Woodworking, 6", 2 Pack, Clamp/Spreader, Quick Grip Clamps, Woodworking Clamps, Bar Clamps, Quick Clamps, Trigger Clamp, Quick Clamps for Woodworking. https://a.co/d/dGQWQpZ Happy tubbing, and good luck!
  21. I think you give us too much credit, oh wise master of the chemical stuff.😆 I'm an electrician who answered the wrong job ad and ended up fixing spas. Don't expect me to keep up with you on this one my friend.
  22. It could be a valve adjustment issue, a collapsed or clogged main drain, or water behind the liner. @Pool Clown, @jimmythegreek.
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