Jump to content

RDspaguy

Members
  • Posts

    4,234
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    211

Everything posted by RDspaguy

  1. Most of it is in the pump motor, but I would disconnect the pump and test voltages at the circuit board if you haven't already.
  2. That is proprietary info, and they will not release it. I've tried. All you can get is instruction on what wire to connect where, not circuit board schematics. They are in the business of selling electronics, and will not release their intellectual property to the public. Buy a board, or get relays replaced if you like. And get a spa technician or electronics repair guy, not an electrician. The fact that your electrician is under the impression that it's possible to get what he asked for implies that he has no experience working on electronics in spas. The manufacturer never intended for their boards to be repaired, and anyone who has gone through the trouble of reverse-engineering their stuff is not going to give it away either.
  3. I suspect you have lost the neutral, in your breaker or wiring. Remove wires from breaker and test voltage at the terminals. You should read 120v to white on both red and black. If you do not, check voltage into the disconnect box and verify you have 120v there. The white having 0 does not make the voltages correct, you need 120v to red and black.
  4. Post pics of the breaker, with cover off, and the circuit board.
  5. I don't even test for TA. Adjust ph and let TA fall where it will. 60 is fine.
  6. You can put anything you want in a spa shell, you just need to cut a hole and seal the fitting, which can be easy or impossible, depending on the spot you picked. It should be flat and accessible on both sides of the shell. A tile cutting bit in a dremel tool will cut the shell.
  7. Not familiar with that brand. I would think it's under warranty, have you called your dealer?
  8. Post pics of circuit board so we know which one you have.
  9. NEC (national electrical code) says the disconnect must be no less than 5ft, no more than 25ft, and in a direct line of sight from the spa. This is to avoid the potential of accidental electrocution and provide a visible means of disconnect for fire and safety personell. There is no code regarding windows near a disconnect, but if the square is the location of the spa then it's probably too close. The distance is as measured from the surface of the water in the spa, not the spa itself.
  10. Sounds like the transformer board to me. Watkins makes a few that look alike but are not compatible. Check the model number to verify.
  11. Have you read the other sticky threads on this subject in the chemistry section? https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/52522-some-truths-about-ph-and-ta/&do=getNewComment
  12. No. It could trip the breaker or simply not heat, but it will not stop the jets from working or cause lights to flash on the display. Correct. Maybe. The "lim ok" light is sensor related, the "htr on" is only on if the spa is turning on the heater (which it won't do if the sensor is bad), and the "control unplugged" is only on if the control is unplugged. So unplug the control panel and turn it on. If the 3rd led is not on, it's a board power issue. Again, as long as you are sure of those results and you didn't accidentally check the wrong spot. Not that I know of. I am no electronics repair man, but I know those boards, even the small transformer board, are proprietary, and only available through Watkins manufacturing (who makes hot springs spas, among others).
  13. That is a fairly common issue, but I test everything else before replacing the board. If you are sure about your test, then get a board.
  14. Sorry I missed your post. If it shows it is heating on the display but there is no voltage at the heater connections then it is likely a faulty relay or burned solder point. Remove the board and check the back for damage. They can usually be repaired by an electronics repair guy.
  15. Ok. Whatever... I'm tired of arguing and explaining myself to people asking for advice. You obviously know all about it, so don't need my help.
  16. Check incoming voltage and test thermistors (sensors in heater, plugs at lim therm and reg therm) with an ohm meter. Post results.
  17. Uhhh... ok. I've never seen a threaded pressure switch with a gasket. Unless you consider teflon tape a gasket. I have never had one of those heaters apart so can't be sure, but I'm betting a new pressure switch will do the trick. Something like this might work. https://pool-spa-supplies.com/caldera-spas-pressure-switch-2006-to-current-kit-ps-hohs-06-73995-3331?utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQjwv5uKBhD6ARIsAGv9a-x2az-UccJqgp_jVnjiZsGKzYIR-x-pnP0Tf0DlwBKEuUDY9jPio70aApacEALw_wcB
  18. Please start your own thread with info and pics about your spa.
  19. That is the pressure switch. Not sure if you can find a replacement.
  20. My opinion: Yes to ozone and nature2. You might use a floater, barely open and tied off away from the filter, while you are away. Expect a low ph as a result, but it should keep your unused spa with cover on sufficiently sanitized to avoid any unpleasantness. @Susanjhas a vacation rental, which is a completely different situation than yours, so don't panic. You will not have the problems she has had at your private cabin. Unless you start renting it or letting the kids borrow it when you aren't there, in which case you will.
×
×
  • Create New...