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RDspaguy

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Everything posted by RDspaguy

  1. Ok. First off, I have no clue what apples are doing for you. If your spa has an ozone generator it is doing exactly what it should. Stay with the dichlor/bleach method, use less, and enjoy your (nearly) chlorine free soak. Add chlorine after each use. It's obviously ok if you overdo it, and you don't need to shock. Ditch the mps. Use Ahhsome spa cleaner before your next water change.
  2. I've heard it can throw off other readings as well. I don't personally know, as I don't even own any mps myself.😉
  3. I would not put ozone in a spa that was not plumbed for it. Ozone injection systems have a very long run of pipe before returning to the tub, sometimes several loops around the spa. As I understand it, ozone is unstable once it leaves the uv radiation and will convert back to oxygen in about 20-30 seconds at sea level. I have even heard that it is this conversion, and the resulting free radical O(1), that actually does the oxidation and not really the ozone at all. So to get the full benefits of ozone you must keep it in contact with the water in the pipes until it converts. Releasing it
  4. Yeah... most of the time. But a bad motor can damage the same part of the board on every board you put in there. Highly unlikely, I admit, but I have seen it (and paid for it) before. 😉
  5. I like your plan. Otherwise, check the filter for a number on the plastic part.
  6. Is the water in the tub hotter than the set temperature? Most OH errors are a high temp in the heater from low water flow. Remove filters. If it happens again, open the equipment area and touch the circulation pump. Is it hot, really hot, or OMG I need an icepack?
  7. He meant speeds. If the low speed relay on the board is stuck on, when you turn on high speed it will cause the motor to run loud and hot, blow fuses, and trip breakers. Disconnect pump1 wires, turn on power, turn on pump1 low and test voltage on the board from black to white and red to white, then hit jet button high speed and test both again. You should have 240v from black to white on low, and red to white on high. What is all that crud on the motor terminal block? It looks like it was in some water. I'm inclined to say it's the motor just from the look of it.
  8. Dr. who? That's a matter of opinion. To me, in an acrylic spa with ozone, it is worth it.
  9. Going to need more info. Brand, year, pics of equipment, circuit board, and wiring diagram. What does er 5 mean?
  10. Green is ground and plays no part at all in this. All that matters is if you have voltage to the motor. If there is no indicator on the topside I'd say it's the topside.
  11. First thing I see is a fried wire terminal on the red wire on the bottom center of the board. That is definitely an issue. Also, the jumper block (upper right) has a jumper on the third set of pins on one board and not the other. Is there any chance that you switched up any of the black or white pump wires? Double check the wiring diagram and verify all pump connections are correct.
  12. Thanks buddy. I was looking for a pump 2 enable jumper. My old Kauai had 2 pumps and a different jumper configuration. Just thought maybe... @Marc C, does the jet indicator on the controller come on when you press the jet2 button? Mice love to chew on wires, you might check the controller wires for damage.
  13. Yeah, I've built tarp tents and thawed spas with bullet heaters many times. And I am far more likely to be back in the spring to do it over than with the same repairs done in 40+ degree weather (I think that's like 5* in Canadianese. 😉) Plus, I charge for tent building and heating costs. It means "able to put water in faster than it goes out".🤣
  14. I actually had a vacation rental tub in Tahoe that had the cover and lift ripped off of the spa and about half of the (dirty, hairy) water splashed out, complete with claw marks on cover, cabinet, and shell. I'm just glad it wasn't still there when I arrived. Smelled like a wet dog fell in a septic tank.
  15. I could really use a winning lottery ticket. Can you get me one of those? 😁 I'm hoping @castletoniacan come up with a chart for the jumper pins. Give him a minute, he's a busy guy.
  16. I have never worked on that brand, but the ones I have worked on have replaceable o-rings. They may not sell them, but if you remove one and go to a big hardware or plumbing supply store I'm sure you could find something that will fit.
  17. Leak repairs in low temperatures are problematic. Between stiff and brittle plastics, shrunken o-rings, sealant cure temperatures, and repair times there are many things that can go wrong. If it's manageable, I would wait. @CanadianSpaTech, any advice from the arctic? (How is that pet polar bear doing, by the way?)😉
  18. Ding! Ding! Ding! We have a winner! Let us know how it goes from here.
  19. Post a pic of the circuit boards and wiring diagram on the control box cover. On the board there is a rectangular black "e-prom" that has a sticker with a rev number, include those in your pic. Was the cord still on the motor? If not, I'd say you wired it wrong. What kind of noise? Which codes? According to the codes, or the heater was actually on with no water? Not possible. If it has the small laing circ pump it is supposed to run 24/7.
  20. Post a pic of the circuit board. @castletonia, do you have any info as the Watkins guru?
  21. If you are correct regarding the heater not being engaged and your transformer voltage is good it pretty much has to be the temp sensor or board. I'd plug in a new sensor before buying that expensive board. The topside is just buttons and a display, and plays no part in logic.
  22. The ozonator itself has no effect on the amount if bubbles. It can be completely dead and still have lots of bubbles. The mazzei valve draws more air (or ozone) the faster the water moves through it. You are likely in need of filters, circ pump, or maybe an ozone check valve. Post a pic of your circuit board and wiring diagram.
  23. https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/52138-bromine-use-in-spas/ Not sure what "infused bromine granules" are, but you need sodium bromide at startup to establish your bromide bank. Foam is usually from detergent/fabric softener residue on your clothing, or hair conditioner, makeup, lotion, etc. that you bring into the spa. If the spa is new to you I strongly recommend you use Ahhsome spa plumbing cleaner.
  24. I've read the depletion time charts on various contaminants with regards to silver (with NO chlorine), and many were quite long, some even in the double digits of hours. That seems to be the main arguement against them, but I don't see why. I am perfectly ok with an 18 hour timeframe, as my spa is unused for 22 or so hours each day and I add chlorine after use, which destroys most if not all contaminants anyway. Plus, as another article I read (wish I could find it, I've read so many in the course of arguing with a few people on the subject) states, any depletion time represents a cessation of
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