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Everything posted by RDspaguy

  1. Seriously though, this is a 14 year dead thread. How did you even find it? Had you read it you would have found defoamer mentioned several times. Just wanting some advertising for your pool supply site Hakim... I mean Johnny?
  2. Depends on the control system, I'm not sure which they are using. Often it is pressing 2 buttons simultaneously for 5 seconds, (up and down, temp and jets, jets and light) or a "hidden" button beneath the logo.
  3. Just online suppliers, who may or may not have them. Pillows are often proprietary, so the pillow manufacturer can only make them for the spa company and can't sell them elsewhere by contract. Major brands with long-running pillow designs are often copied by others, but less common and older pillows are usually oem only, or no longer available once the design changes. I've heard some things about those LPI guys, and understand your issues with ordering from them, but it's very likely you'll have no other option. Pillows can be revived by drying thoroughly and painting with a rubberized bumper paint, undercoat, or similar flexible waterproof product.
  4. A system with 24/7 circulation is best, but if your tub does not have a circulation pump and relies on the main pump for flow you do not want to run it continuously. The damage to the pump and your electric bill would outweigh the benefits of running it continuously. 24/7 circulation pumps are fractional hp and made to run non-stop, where your main pumps are much higher hp and can overheat the spa if left on too long.
  5. Without water? That's what it sounds like, since it will work once left out to dry for a while. Can't imagine how it would get wet with everything dry in there, but that is the way it sounds. Maybe. The circ pump is such a small amp draw it's far more likely that the jet pump would trip it if engaged in the case of a bad breaker. However, the decreasing time frame would suggest a failing breaker. Disconnect the ozone from the board. It's unlikely to be the cause, but lets get it out of the picture just in case. Tighten all terminals on the gfci breaker. Next time it's tripping, with main power off, feel the side to see if it's hot. It should be no warmer than the box it's in.
  6. That'll do it. Did you find the source of that water? Are you using the pressure switch or is it jumpered? Did you connect the thermistors (sensors) correctly? Test thermistors. Yeah, it's not necessary, just nice to have.
  7. You mean pressure switch? Remove the pump face and see. I'd just get a new impeller and seal, assuming the motor runs good and the shaft is not eaten away by rust.
  8. That doesn't stop alot of people from doing so anyway. Very common in the field. And highly destructive. Even if you do, the cost is prohibitive. Most will buy a different spa or just live with it.
  9. Well Mike, you'll have to stand it up or block it up and go in from the bottom for that fitting. However, any leak behind the equipment bay wall will cause water to enter the equipment bay, usually from the lowest opening. So it may not be this at all. Remove side panels and check for other, higher leaks before going all gung-ho on it.
  10. No. A pressure switch is actuated by a rubber diaphram that can and does get stiff over time, so the low speed may not close it anymore. Also, from your description of no suction at the filter on low (which can difficult to detect by hand even when working) I suspect a "spun" impeller, which is where the impeller breaks from the shaft but is still moved by the friction at the break due to the spring pressure from the seal. In low, it barely moves, but in high it moves enough to trigger the switch. Worked out there for a few years, might have even seen this spa at some point. Truckee is gorgeous. Love the drive up from Tahoe.
  11. Yep, better off with 2 breakers if using the slave heater.
  12. Older Sundance/jacuzzi does not use a neutral, they are 240v only. Unless that has changed on these new controls, there should not be a neutral. It will allow both pumps to run on high with the heater also running. If possible, this would be in the dipswitch settings. If it is a single pump spa it is not necessary.
  13. Nice job. I've never been successful repairing a topside, not that I've tried alot, but when they don't make them anymore you try whatever you can. The goo is moisture-proofing, and standard for spa topside controllers.
  14. This means the heater is off. One leg (120v to ground) is always on, the other is switched. So testing to ground you will always get 120v. Not shorted. Sounds like a bad relay. Remove the board and check the back for burns.
  15. Gfci breakers can and do go bad. They can be difficult to diagnose, as they could be reacting to faulty equipment or a bad breaker, but disconnecting equipment can make a bad breaker stop tripping leading you to think it's the equipment when it's not. On your spa, the 30 amp is the heater, so you can rule that out. The timing suggests a bad breaker, or perhaps ozonator.
  16. Disconnect each component, one at a time, until it stops tripping. On that spa there are 2 breakers. The 240v 30 amp is the heater, and the 120v 20 amp is everything else. Which breaker trips?
  17. This. By putting it in the ground you have made it an inground pool, which requires a bonding grid by code. You should have put it in a concrete pit, with no earth contact anywhere but the bottom, in which case it is still an above ground and does not require bonding. The inspector is not mis-interpreting the code, you changed the designation by backfilling. It's a technicality, and not actually necessary in this case, but it is the code. Nowhere does the material of construction change the bonding requirements. But this is your biggest concern. If you think digging a trench for electrical is a problem, then you're going to be hating life when you have to dig the spa out to fix it. Remember, warranty does not cover access, so if it doesn't work when you first turn it on you'll still have to pay for removing it for access, even though the "repair" is under warranty.
  18. Test from one lead to the other. Several. Lets start with some pics of the circuit board, wiring diagram, and equipment area so we know what we're dealing with here.
  19. Right. Those buttons go bad. The more they are used, the faster they go. Any cracks in the overlay? Fog in the screen?
  20. Attachment not available. It's bonded. You would not have 120v at your outlets if it was not.
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