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waterbear

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waterbear last won the day on May 22

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About waterbear

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  • Birthday 02/24/1954

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  1. All aqueous (water based) solutions have a pH. Do you mean the pH was very low? What was the number and how was it obtained? (strips, liquid reagent read in a color comparator, direct pH meter, colorimeter reading a strip, disc or vial?) Black oil on bottom of what? Copper can produce dark stains on some surfaces (i.e. fiberglass) but ususally stains blue to green. Not sure what you mean by black oi (copper). Do you mean pH UP or pH DOWN. This is important. First step, post a FULL set of test results NOT done with strips. Include a test for copper if possible. Po
  2. It's a copper based algaecide, not a primary sanitizer, and needs to be used with chlorine for a sanitized spa. FW)W, copper stains. Green hair is caused by copper in the water. I would not recommend it. It's basically just copper sulfate and the EPA registration is generic for the pesticide/algaecide copper sulfate.
  3. Also, a fun fact that you are probably not aware of. High sanitizer levels can and will beach out both DPD testing with liquid or tablet/powder/disc reagents and strips that use DPD or syringaldazine for testing sanitizer leading you to believe that sanitizer levels are low or non existent when in reality they are high This is why I recommend the Taylor K-2006 and K-2106 test kits because they use the FAS-DPD test for sanitizer which does not suffer from the same problem.
  4. Couple of things going on. Your spa is overstabilzied so the chlorine can't kill which allows "nasties" to grow in the plumbing which further eats up any chlorine that is added very quickly, as you are seeing. The reason you had the same problem with bromine is because of the biofilm that is probably nicely entrenched in the plumbing when you switched over was doing the same thing to the bromine. From your description it sounds like you were using 2 step bromine (no bromine tabs in floater, just sodium bromide and an oxidizer). Added to that you are using test strips which are useless for
  5. YOU WIN!!!!! (Even though the 60k was just one pool at the facility. There was also a 55K 'family pool' -swim diaper leak and fecal shutdown almost daily, 2 1K hot tubs with cart filters in pits, and a 1K kids 'splash area' with deck jets, overhead water features, and deck drains to an underground water tank, also with a cart in a pit! A haven for fecal closedowns ! Even with all that you STILL win! ) 😎
  6. Neither did I initially. The plumbing is a nightmare, IMHO. For a system that complicated you would think the builder would create manifolds instead of a spider's web of pipes and valves.
  7. I would much rather test water than brush and tiles soap the waterline of a 60k gallon commercial pool, clean out and recharge a pit DE filter, or get a peristaltic acid pump adjusted (all of which I've had to do in the past). By comparison, water testing IS fun!
  8. It is also easy, inexpensive, and is basically how many commercial pools are maintained (except they use peistaltic pumps to dose the liquid pool chlorine (still bleach but just double strength) and the muriatic acid. When you are ready check back and I will give you some tips. Once again, the test kit is the most important part and the one that I recommended is easy and accurate (and it's sort of fun too).
  9. As I said when I first looked at it I didn't have time to study all the photos but I have noticed that the pool has "floor returns" which could just be returns or part of an in floor cleaning system, which is pressure side). Also I saw the Pentair Rainbow trichlor feeder which makes me think that the Smartpure is ozone. Without a full schematic of the plumbing (or maybe more pictures to get a better idea of all the valve and where they go, along with all the equipment plumbed in it's difficult to really say what needs to go where. I will print out the pictures tonight or tomorrow and
  10. My pleasure. Just tell me where to send the bill! 😄😉
  11. I can't make out the valve labels in the vicinity of your chlorinator/filter/ heater . Also, is your Smartpure system a salt or ozone system (Bluehaven make both and I can't really tell from the picture. These are their proprietary systems.)
  12. NO! The main drain is on the suction side of the pump, not the pressure side. It cant be used as a return! The valve arrangement allows you to distribute the suction (water flow to the pump) between the main drain, 2 skimmers, and a dedicated suction cleaner port. I don't have the time right now to study the photos but I will and post what the valves do and where to set them in the next day or two.
  13. I agree. Even a kiddie pool needs sanitizer, pH adjustment, and chlorine stabilizer or you will be dumping and refilling daily. Fun fact, everyone entering the pool adds fecal matter, urine, and sweat (which is almost identical to urine in chemical makeup) to the water no matter how clean they THINK they are which is why you want a fast acting EPA approved residual sanitizer. For pools there are three in the United States, Chlorine, Bromine (not suitable for outdoor pools since it cannot be stabilized against destruction by sunlight) , or biguinde/peroxide systems which are expens
  14. any pool can leak or collapse if not set up or maintained properly. For that matter both fiberglass and gunnite (concrete) inground pools have been known to pop out of the ground! and both ingound and above ground vinyl liner pools can suffer from tears or leaks in the liner. No but you do need to learn some basics. Search the internet for the BBB (Bleach, Borax, and Baking Soda) method of pool water care, The PoolForum is a good place to start since it has special sections for inflatable and Intex pools. Depends on local zoning. Depends on the slope. Contact the
  15. You shock (super-chlorinate) when combined chlorine tests at .5 ppm or higher when using a good drop based test kit (NOT strips) A pool is a pool is a pool. If you are using chlorine then you need to test the water with a good kit (I recommend the Taylor K 2006) and adjust your chemical levels accordingly. It doesn't matter if the pool is a 60,000 gallon plaster surface pool, a 20,000 gallon fiberglass, or a 6000 gallon inflatable. The water chemistry is the same and, in fact, is a bit more difficult to maintain in a smaller pool. Usually but some will get you by for a year or
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