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waterbear

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About waterbear

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    Village Idiot ;)
  • Birthday 02/24/1954

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  1. A saltwater pool IS a chlorine pool. It is just an automated way to add chlorine to the pool by converting the salt added to the water into chlorine by electrolysis of the salt in the Salt Water Chlorine Generator. Many companies offer such units for both inground and above ground pools. It does not relieve you of the necessity of testing and balancing your water, adding acid to adjust the pH, etc. If you are not willing to do this or have a service do it for you then perhaps you should not have a pool.
  2. waterbear

    No Alkalinity

    Hows are you testing your pool water? What is your pH? Alkalinity is a function of pH and if yo are showing 0 TA then I suspect that your pH might be dangerously low. Please post a full set of test results (Free and Total Chlorine), pH, TA, CH, and CYA and the testing method (strips, drop based test, colorimeter, pool store testing and their method) and you question can be answered. Without accurate test results it's impossible to answer.
  3. waterbear

    Keeping Pool Water Cooler

    The only way is to install a chiller (opposite of a heater) or possibly a reverse cycle heat pump that will cool the water in the summer and heat it in the cooler temperatures. Neither one is an inexpensive proposition.
  4. waterbear

    Overdose of citric acid

    Citric acid is used to remove staining from pool at a rate of about 1 lb. per 10k gallons. Green pool is usually from algae and chlorine is what you would use, not citric acid. . Citric acid will also destroy any chlorine in your pool and make it very hard to maintain a chlorine level untill all the citric acid is oxidized. Citric acid will also drop your pH and TA. Can't really help you without more info. Full set of test results (not done with strips), pool surface (plaster, fiberglass, vinyl), etc.
  5. waterbear

    Lowering Total Alkalinity

    read BOTH of these: https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/36290-lowering-total-akalinity-howto-not-just-for-pools/ https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/28846-lowering-total-alkalinity-howto/ Once you drop the pH you need to aerate to bring it back up, not add a chemical to do so. The above links explain everyting!
  6. waterbear

    Lowering Total Alkalinity

    https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/36290-lowering-total-akalinity-howto-not-just-for-pools/ https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/28846-lowering-total-alkalinity-howto/
  7. waterbear

    What Happened To Bromine For Beginners?

    the posts have been removed by the powers that be. Don't know why. Sorry.
  8. waterbear

    What Happened To Bromine For Beginners?

    bump....any word from the powers that be as to why my usful post was deleted?
  9. waterbear

    What Happened To Bromine For Beginners?

    Not sure what happened to many of my posts. I am still listed as a moderator here but it seem the board is under some sort of new management since there are board admin that I do not know and they seem to have removed several of my posts. I also no longer have the ability to stick a post at the top of the forum. This is why I have not been around much lately. I also noticed that they now have a sponsored water chemisty section on the intro page so that might have something to do with it.
  10. The problem is that your chlorine taba add 6 ppm CYA for every 10 ppm of FC added so your CYA will keep increasing and your pool will become over stablized. You were better off with the SWCG. My advice would be to stop the trichlor tabs and switch to liquid chlorine or bleach (sodium hypochlorite) or you will have to keep doing partial drains and refills to keep the CYA in check. Phosphates are a non issue if you maintain a proper FC level for your CYA level. .
  11. waterbear

    Raising Ph

    You probably won't find the test kit you want in a pool store. You will need to order it online. You want a Taylor K-2006 (NOT the K-2005 which uses a different test for FC and TC and is not as accurate and requires dilution of the sample to measure chlorine levels above 5 ppm.) The kit is readily available from many online merchants including amazon and many online pool supply stores but last time I checked Amato Industries had the best price. http://www.amatoind.com/taylor-test-2006-p-555.html
  12.  Sounds complicated. We have an ionizer at the cottage and we put 1/2 a chlorine tablet in the floater once every 1-2 weeks and that's it. We have renters coming and going, kids, big families, etc. and the water is always crystal clear. There is virtually no chemical balancing or maintenance required. I don't understand why there is so much hate for ionizers when they are a great solution for many cases. And in this thread http://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=23624#entry178880 you posted this so you are certainly NOT unbiased and not necessarily presenting the facts from a neutral standpoint as chem geek (and my self since I no longer actively work in the industry and represent NO industry interests)
  13. Bottom line is this. Copper has kill times that are too slow to maintain sanitized water under real life conditions. It is NOT an EPA approved primary sanitizer. Period! It is really just an algaecide. If you have algae in a pool with copper then you probably don't have a working ionizer and do not have sanitized water.What is your copper level and are you running any chlorine residual (which is required, btw, to kill viruses and other pathogens that copper can't.)
  14. Basically, what I said in my post
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