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waterbear last won the day on October 2

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About waterbear

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  1. The chlorine/CYA relationship is exactly that. The higher the CYA the higher the FC needs to be run for the same net effect in the water. There actual tables that have been published illustrating this. The original one was done by Ben Powell of The Pool Forum/PoolSolutions and refined by Chemgeek and published on TFP. Here is a link that shows both: https://blog.intheswim.com/fresh-thoughts-on-cyanuric-acid/ Much of the original research to support this goes back to the 60s but was suppressed because it could cut into the profits of one of the largest manufacturers of stabilized chl
  2. it would be about a 20% difference between sanitizing ability at 7.4 vs 7.8 assuming you are running a chlorine system with no CYA and not bromine . If you are truly using dead sea salts you have a bromine tub and CYA is not an issue and pH is not an issue since bromine is effective at a very wide pH range and cannot be stabilized by CYA. If you are running a chlorine system, which would mean your 'dead sea salt blend is really just sodium chloride and perhaps some borax and boric acid and not actual dead sea salts, then the pH does have a small effect but if you add as little as 20 ppm CYA it
  3. My post is based on the actual chemistry that is occurring in your tub not manufacturing hype written by some corporate copy writer who is merely regurgitating the information taught in the CPO (certified pool operator) courses and often incorrectly because they really don't have an understanding of the basic chemistry involved. Why do you feel that your pH would be all over the place with a lower TA? From what you have posted your pH is all over the place with your high TA. It is obvious that you are not understanding how buffer systems work. As far as manufacturer's claims go, ask anyone i
  4. If your pH rises immediately once the jets turn on then it means your TA is too high. pH rise is caused by outgassing of CO2. The higher the CO2 dissolved in the water the faster the pH will rise. 2 steps to counter this is lower the TA (this will lower the possible amount of CO2 that can form) and don't try to drop the pH too low (The lower the pH the more bicarbonate ions, which is what we measure and call TA, will be shifted to the the other side of the equilibrium equation as carbonic acid which is basically CO2 dissolved in the water. CO2 + H2O <=> H2CO3<=> HCO3 + (H+)
  5. It is obvious you did not read the link I put in my first post on lowering TA or you would not have asked the questions you asked. Please read the link (I wrote the post). https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/28846-lowering-total-alkalinity-howto/ As far as corrosion goes LOW pH is the cause of corrosion, TA (which is nothing more than the measurement of bicarbonate ions in the water) neither causes or prevents corrosion. Not sure where you got the idea that TA or CH for that matter has anything to do with corrosion. High salt levels (whether from the salt added for th
  6. 10 ppm will fade swimsuits when CYA is 0 ppm at 20 ppm CYA a FC level of 20 ppm might fade a swimsuit but should not hurt a swimmer at 30-50 ppm a FC level of 30 ppm FC could be damaging to swimsuits and tinted hair but I would go in that water naked from the neck down. I would rinse off after. As far as dangerous FC levels go look up bleach baths. They are a treatment for skin conditions such as chronic eczema, staph, and atopic dermatitis and are considered safe by such places as Mayo Clinic and the American Academy of Dermatology Association for both children and adults. the
  7. use dichlor until the CYA level is 20-30 ppm then switch to bleach for your chlorine source since it will not further raise CYA. Nitro was merely stating that once you have added a TOTAL of about 34 ppm FC OVER TIME, not all at once, you will have achieved your desired CYA level and it's time to switch over to bleach. For every 10 ppm FC added by dichlor you are adding 9 ppm CYA. If you are maintaining a 4 ppm FC level daily and are losing 2 ppm daily and need to add 2 ppm back then you will add a total of 34 ppm FC in 17 days. If your daily chlorine demand is 1 ppm then it will take 34 days o
  8. Your TA is WAY TOO HIGH. pH rise is caused by outgassing of CO2. Period. TA is carbonation. Your jets aerate the water and cause a faster outgassing of CO2 which is why you pH rises fast when you turn on the jets. Lower your TA and problem solved! Period! Drop your TA to between 50-70 ppm and only run air injectors in the jet when using the spa if possible and run at low speed if you have a multi speed pump when not using the spa. This will lower the amount of aeration which is causing your pH rise. Second, when you do lower pH do not lower it below about 7.6 and don't lower it unti
  9. Yes, send a sample to a lab for analysis since they don't really publish the information \ From their website: "Arctic Pure Onzen Sea Salt Blend (Sodium Chloride) is a natural salt water care product. A unique blend of natural Dead Sea Salt and proprietary water clarifiers designed specifically for the Arctic Spas Onzen and Spa Boy water care systems." Typical manufacturer doublespeak. If it's sodium chloride it can't be natural dead sea salt since that is not sodium chloride but does contain it along with many other minerals and salts. If it is a blend of
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