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waterbear last won the day on September 20

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  • Birthday 02/24/1954

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  1. just let the bromine drop to normal levels. If the problem persists and it was my tub then I would shock again but raise the bromine to 15 to 20 ppm and keep it there for 24 hours.Then let the bromine levels drop with tub uncovered and don't get in until the bromine is below 10 ppm.
  2. This is a moot point. Shock means to raise the oxidizer levels high enough to burn off organics in the water. Last time I checked hypobromous acid was an oxidizer. This is no different than shocking with chlorine in a chlorine system. You are raising the hypochlorous acid levels high enough to oxidize organics. MPS works much the same by adding enough oxidizer, in this case MPS, to oxidize organics. Shock is a verb that means raising the level of oxidizer high enough to destroy organics in the spa. Hydrogen peroxide is used as an oxidizer to shock biguinide systems. Shocking works the same no matter what sanitizer system you are using.
  3. This is untrue. Sodium Thiosulfate (commonly sold as chlorine neutralizer at pool/spa supply stores) will also lower bromine levels in addition to chlorine.
  4. No, I locked the thread because people come to this forum to learn proper water care and your advise, as @RDspaguyalready stated , was irresponsible and potentially unsafe.. This thread is going to be locked also because your only purpose in starting it was to complain that we would not let you post irresponsible information on water care when it is obvious you have no experience or background in it.
  5. the process is slow at first when the TA is high and needs to be repeated since the TA will not move downward at first. However, once the TA starts going down the process speeds up. I would suggest aerating overnight at the start of the process, which can take a few days. If you are not planning on using the tub you can turn the heat down during the process but the tub is fully usable during this process as long as you don't accidentally drop the pH below 7.0 and wait about 30 minutes after adding acid with circulation on before entering the tub. This should have been your first step since they explain what you are trying to do.
  6. I would just like to add that this is after any powder chemicals added, such as TA increaser (baking soda), have fully dissolved. Even better, predissolve any dry chemicals in a bucket of water before adding to the spa, particularly dry acid or shock.
  7. in a word, NO. However, your TA is on the high side for a spa, If you find that your pH is constantly rising and you have to add acid frequently then: DO NOT use soda ash to raise pH, Uncover and aerate the spa (jets and air injectors on full) to cause CO2 to gas off, which will cause pH to rise. IF you need to QUICKLY raise pH because of an overdose of acid and the pH in the spa is below 7.0 then use Borax (sodium tetraborate pentahydrate, 20 Mule Borax in the laundry aisle of the grocery store) at twice the dos of soda ash for the same pH rise. It will have minimal impact on your TA. Use baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) for raising TA if needed. Don't try to keep you pH at 7.4. Shoot for 7.6 to 7.8. Lower it when it hits 8.0. What is your CH? Here are some posts for you to read that explain the relationship between pH and TA and how to lower your TA properly: https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/52522-some-truths-about-ph-and-ta/ https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/28846-lowering-total-alkalinity-howto/
  8. Shocking in a bromine system, whether manual or with a swg converts raises the bromine level high enough to destroy any problems in the water, usually 10 ppm or higher bromine. Your generator has a 'boost mode" which is basically a shock setting, same as most chlorine based SWGs, which will raise your bromine levels. If there is a problem with the water the manual for in.clear states that the boost mode can be repeated and that if there is a continued problem to purge the spa with one of the many spa purge products to get rid of biofilm. FWIW, in a manual 2 step or 3 step bromine system chlorine is the most common oxidizer used to convert bromide into hypobromous acids with MPS being the second most common and, in fact, bromine tabs are mostly chlorine with enough bromine to maintain the bromide bank. Also, there are SWGs on the market that can be used either as chlorine or bromine systems and when they are used as bromine systems they are still used with sodium chloride and generate chlorine but the difference is that with every fill enough sodium bromine is added to create the same bromine reserve as in a manual 2 step or 3 step bromine system. This is a huge cost savings, particularly for a bromine swimming pool or swim spa because the cost of sodium bromide is much higher than the cost of sodium chloride. There are some design differences between the electrodes used in a sodium bromide based SW bromine system and a sodium chloride based SW bromine system (a chlorine system with a bromide bank so bromine sanitizer is produced instead of chlorine sanitizer). Sodium Bromide based systems often use carbon electrodes while sodium chloride based systems often use titanium/iridium electrodes although some of the low end systems also use carbon electrodes. Whether adding chlorine as an oxidizer to your system would have detrimental effects of the cell or whether it is a technique for the manufacturer to get you to buy more (expensive sodium bromine) I do not know but either is possible.
  9. Increasing your bromine output increased the aeration. Lower your alkalinity as I suggested before. This is how you lower alkalinity: https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/28846-lowering-total-alkalinity-howto/ I had already posted this link for you last Wednesday along with another one that explains about pH rise in hot tubs and pools.
  10. depends on the pH and ORP can change throughout the day I'm not a fan of ORP in home installations. 4-6 ppm for bromine is a good range and the low bromine readings you have could allow pseudomonas to grow. Bromine is active in a wide pH range of about 7.2 to 8.0. With the extra aeration from your ozone and SWG your pH will be constantly rising. IF you keep your pH toward the upper end (7.6 to 7.8) and the alkalinity lower (50 to 70 ppm) you will minimize this and get better pH stability.
  11. This is either your ozone generator or the salt generator and it's normal for the salt generator to produce hydrogen bubbles. It might or might not be normal for the ozone generator depending on it's type (UV or Cororna Discharge) and how it's plumbed.
  12. No, DIchlor is only mildly acidic with a pH of around 6. Read these: https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/52522-some-truths-about-ph-and-ta/ https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/28846-lowering-total-alkalinity-howto/ The second one is a bit long but it explains a lot about TA and pH and their relationship. With that being said I suspect your problem is testing error because you are using strips. I suspect that your pH is higher than you think it is. Strips are notorious for inaccurate pH readings. You want a drop based test kit with phenol red reagent for pH. Even a cheap 2 way test kit from Walmart or Home Depot is better than strips. However, if you go the 2 way liquid reagent route I would get a Taylor K-1000 because their pH reagents will work at higher sanitizer levels and the color comparative is high quality. However>>> I would recommend getting a Taylor K-2006 test kit. It is worth every penny. https://www.taylortechnologies.com/en/page/231/k-2006-complete-kit-with-fas-dpd You can order it online from Amazon and many other online retailers. It is worth every penny and will test Free Chlorine, Combined Chlorine, pH with acid and base demand tests, Total Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, and Cyanuric acid (stabilizer) which is important if you are using dichlor since too much cyanuric acid will overstabilize and the chlorine will not be able to sanitize the water. Dichlor adds 9 ppm cyanuric acid for every 10 ppm free chlorine added so once you have added about 33 ppm of chlorine cumulatively your water is at 30 ppm Cyanuric acid and you really don't want it any higher. Posting a full set of test results would be helpful in determining what's going on. If there is a dealer or pool store near you that tests water and uses either Taylor or LaMotte water testing that would be best. If they use strips, een with a strip reader machine it's no better than what you have now. If you do only have access to strips then post a full set of results. Full test results are: FC, CC (or TC, depending on testing method), pH, TA, CH (or for strips total hardness since they can't test calcium hardness), and CYA. These are the basic parameters that need to be tested, btw. Once we can look them over we will have a much better idea of what's actually going on. We need actual numbers, not OK, Low, or High. I know it can seem overwhelming but it's just a learning curve like anything else and it's really not that hard.
  13. If you are a retired industrial chemist then you know that the main reason for pH rise in a pool or spa is outgassing of CO2 and that the higher the bicarbonate level in the water the faster CO2 will gas off since we purposely overcarbonate pool and spa water. When an acidic sanitizer source is used (Trichlor, MPS, and to a much lesser extent dichlor and bromine tabs) then a higher carbonation (TA) is desirable for more of a buffer effect to offset the pH drop from the acidic sanitizer. Spas have much higher aeration because of the jets than a pool so the outgassing tends to happen much faster. You must also know that at the normal pH range of pools and spas carbonate ions do not exist in the water and are converted to bicarbonate and that adding sodium carbonate will cause TA to shoot very high. If the sanitizer source is not acidic (inorganic chlorine sources and sodium bromide oxidized with such chlorine sources) then the pH will rise above desirable levels until the TA ifr broiught down. Using either borax or lye will not have this impact on TA since you are not adding additional bicarbonate ions as you are when adding either sodium bicarbonate or sodium carbonate, although there will be a slight increase in TA with the pH rise since both will cause a shift from dissolved carbon dioxide in the water toward bicarbonate ion formation.. Of the two borax is MUCH safer to handle and harder to overdose.
  14. Do you mean 2.2 ppm? IF so that is too low . Bromine should test between 4 and 6. My guess is that you have pseudomonas because of under sanitized water and that is causing hot tub itch. Was this level determined by your strip reader or by your ORP sensor? If it's from the ORP sensor it might not be correct. Alkalinity is a bit high for a tub with a salt generator but your pH is low. Harness is perfect. Did you just add acid? How fast does pH rise. IF you need to add acid to lower pH often try dropping the alkalinity to about 60 ppm. https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/52522-some-truths-about-ph-and-ta/ https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/28846-lowering-total-alkalinity-howto/ ORP stands for oxidation reduction potential and it is a measure of the sanitizing power of the water, Conductivity is a measure of the ionic species dissolved in the water. In your case it would be mostly sodium ions and bromide ions because of your bromine salt system. ORP is usually used in commercial installations to control sanitizer additions to compensate for different bather loads. The electrodes do need to be replaced and properly stored or the readings are useless. Personally I don't think they belong in a home system since it does take some training to understand and interpret the readings. However, at a pH of 7.2 an ORP reading of 722 roughly translates into a bromine level < 1 ppm indicating that your water is severely under sanitized. However, ORP is a constantly changing value throughout the day while a ppm value is a constant more or less so the correlation is loose at best. A chemical test for bromine level is your best bet, IMHO. Bottom line, from what you have posted it seems that your bromine levels are low and that is allowing 'nasties' to grow in your water and they are the most likely cause of your rash and itching. Best bet is to get the rash diagnosed by your doctor or dermatologist to determine if it is psuedomonas folliculitis or a chemical sensitivity.
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