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waterbear

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  1. IF you added bromine you have a bromine spa. total and free chlorine tests are meaningless. Depending on your test method there are ways to get a bromine reading if your testing method does not have a bromine scale. Do this and we could help you. We need more information! Is this a new tub?
  2. Sounds like you are using a DPD test such as found in the Taylor K-2005(comparator block with shades of red). IF you are NOT using non chlorine shock (MPS) then you get combined chlorine reading (CC) (combined chlorine is chlorine that has reacted with organics in the water and no longer sanitizes, aka chloramines) by subtracting the Free Chlorine AKA FC (chlorine that sanitizes) from the Total Chlorine (TC). Ideally TC and FC are the same giving a CC of 0 ppm. (TC-FC=CC) IF you ARE using non chlorine shock (MPS) this does not work since MPS WILL test as CC IF you are using a Taylo
  3. Slimy surface is usually bacterial and will not always product CC. From all the stuff the purges have removed I suspect that the spa was stores for a long time without being drained. You might want to consider nuking it with bleach. This means adding enough bleach to get your FC up to about 50 ppm (36 oz of 6% laundry bleach for a 350 gallon tub), leaving the spa uncovered, and circulating the water until the chlorine level drops below 10 ppm. Turn the heater down or off and don' use the spa until the chlorine level is below 10 ppm. You won't be able to test this level of chlorine with either
  4. Taylor K-2006 and 25 ml water sample? if the SWCG was working properly you should not have needed to add bleach daily. That would be my guess. DId this problem start after you replaced the cartridge or was it before Bleach should not have any major impact on salt level. What brand of SWCG do you have and what is the manufacturers recommended salt level? How are you testing the salt level? Are you using a drop test, salt test strips, or a readout on your unit?
  5. Shock is not a product, it is a procedure and involves raising the Free Chlorine (good chlorine) level to a certain point to help oxidize organics in the water and destroy combined chloramines (bad chlorine). The level of Free Chlorine needed is dependent on the level of Cyanuric acid (chlorine stabilizer) in the water. There are 2 categories of chlorine" Stabilized chlorine (chemicals that are made from chlorine and cyanuric acid, referred to as chlorinated isocyanurates or organic chlorine) : Dichlor, a fast dissolving granular form often used in spas but it adds 9 ppm of cyan
  6. Depends on the particular test kit you are using. Best bet is to contact the manufacturer of your test kit to determine if there is a temperature range that is needed for accurate results For example the LaMotte ColorQ wants the water sample to be between 21 to 27 degrees C when you test. Lower temperatures can cause high readings and warmer temperatures can cause low readings. The Taylor CYA test is temperature dependent and the sample should be around 24 degrees C for accurate results. The obvious solution is to take your water sample in a closed container, bring it indoors, and let it
  7. This is where many people get their boric acid but any place you can source it is fine https://www.chemistrystore.com/Chemicals_A-F-Boric_Acid.html You will initially need about 13 oz by weight or 14 oz by volume to go from 0 to 50 ppm in 350 gallons. Check it monthly. When it drops below 30 ppm add it at the rate of 2.5 oz by weight or 3 oz by volume to raise 350 gallons about 10 ppm. If you don't get a lot of splash out you might find that your 4 month water change comes up before you drop below 30 ppm. You can also use a commercial borate product like Proteam Gentle Spa but t
  8. No, this is the correct way to test. One problem with your video is that you were not swirling after each drop, this could change your results and possibly cause you to 'overshoot' and read higher than it actually is which might explain the 7 ppm with 10 ml and the 8 ppm with 25 ml. These tests shouldn't really be off by more than .5 ppm which is the resolution of the 10 ml test. In a worse case scenario the 10 ml test is low by .5 ppm and the 25 ml test is high by 2 ppm making the actual results 7.5 and 8.2 which is a range of only .7 ppm. I suspect that sloppy drop addition and inconsistent
  9. Are you doing dichlor/bleach? If so track all the FC added by the dichlor. For every 10 ppm FC added you are adding 9 ppm FC so when you have added around 35 pm FC cumulative your CYA should be about 30 ppm and you should switch to bleach for chlorinating. Search for PoolMath on google for a dosing calculator. Use the web based one, not the app. Once you have the CYA on target and your other parameters are staying stable we can talk about adding boric acid or borax. You will need to pick up some Lamotte Borate test strips, most likely online. Don't get the AquaChek, Hach, or Taylor stri
  10. I had just edited my reply so you might want to reread it. I have given you my advice on testing. Take it or leave it. Your FC partially bleached out and read low. Your FAS-DPD test in the vidoe read just under 10 ppm which is the tipoff. Trust the FAS-DPD Try reading the instructions on the lid of the kit where it says "For 1 drop = 0.2 ppm, use 25 ml sample. For 1 drop = 0.5 ppm, use 10 ml sample." As far as the amount of DPD powder, you need to add enough for a stable pink color. 1 scoop is often enough for even a 25 ml sample. If the color flashes pink when you add
  11. Is that you testing? IF so there are several mistakes. First, don't use the DPD test from the 2005. Use a 10 ml sample for the FAS-DPD test, only use 1 scoop of DPD powder if the pink color is holding, them each drop of titrant will be equivalent to .5 ppm instead of .2 ppm. This is more than enough resolution for this test. You don't need to determine chlorine levels to .2 ppm, .5 ppm is fine! The reason the DPD test from the 2005 is not working is because the DPD is bleaching out because of chlorine levels at or above 10 ppm. and you need to do dilutions on your sample which is a PITA.
  12. First thing I want to clarify is whether you are testing with DPD (3 liquid reagents and a comparator with red color blocks) which means you have a K-2005, which is what I suspect, or whether you are testing with a powder and a liquid, count drop until the color changes from pink to colorless, add 5 drops of a different liquid reagent and titrate again with the first liquid looking for the same color change which means you are using a K-2006 which you say you have but your descriptions of your testing are the DPD test in the K-2005. You also are not computing the CC properly. Once we determine
  13. Get a Pentair 335 1" floater (best one made for 1" tabs) and only put one or two tabs in at a time instead of filling it up and only open it a little. It has a very wide range of adjustment and is well made. You can find it online at such places as Amazon, eBay, Walmart, and might find it locally at a pool/spa retail store. Pentair model number is Pentair R171074 335
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