SherryRae

So I haven't used mps until this most recent chemical addition. I assume it remains.. doesn't decay after a period of time?.. so if I use it I should do the detox indefinitely? And what is your interpretation of the Taylor instructions requiring a 1 minute wait to test cc when using the deox but not with the std testing? That perplexes me why there is a diff in procedure? And obviously affects the result. Do you use mps? If not, what do you use as periodic 'boost' to remove oils etc? And do you apply enzyme at times? The bleach is 7%. The display is currently reading yellow to the right (3o'clock) but says 'salt system ok' Test values just now.. 28hrs later = fc 3.8 (deox) 4 (w/o) cc .8 (deox) .4 (w/o & no wait) .6 (w/o & wait) So can water look crystal clear but still have issues? Everything I have read seems to imply problem would be signaled by cloudy water etc. And I like using the 25ml since I would think it would provide more accuracy since increments are .2? And refusing my spreadsheet?? If you knew all the fields of info I collected you may feel differently! 😊. And you probably shouldn't have divulged that you are a computer geek.. a different kind of nagging may begin...

some added info... i added 1/2c bleach and 4T mps.. 2hr later fc reads 13.2 and cc .4 ... HOWEVER if i use the mps deox procedure with taylor kit i get--- 9.6fc and .8cc?? Now i have sent in a question to them directly because the procedure is diff for the 2 tests.. obviously it is diff since we are adding the deox, but what i mean is that in the std testing situation you test for cc immediately after adding the 0003 reagent, but in the deox situation the instructions say to wait 1 minute.. well that definitely affects it. So should i be doing this all along in the std testing method too?? it does not state that in the instructions! i also don't understand why the deox reagent goes in before testing fc as supposedly it's presence should only affect the cc value? so sherry is confused i ran the std test and did the 1min wait for cc.. that made it come out as .6 instead of .4 i also ran the deox test and measured cc w/o 1min wait and if came out as .6 instead of .8 i really don't understand why the deox version of test would register a higher fc?? guys i am sorry for my ignorance!! i really hate not understanding things. i am trying to make every effort to understand my maintenance. also don't see how this last dose raised the fc to that high a level as 1/2c bleach should only provide 6ppm soooo.. help me if you so choose! thanks guys

Ok.. sorry for the delay in responding.. I am also dealing with computer issues.. so that has drawn my attention away.. anybody experts in that out here?🤔😛. Anyway, yes I believe my Taylor kit is the 2006.. I got it from leslie's so it isn't labelled, but says 'complete (fas-dpd) chlorine.. it has drip test for fc.cc.ph.ta.ch.cya. unfortunately I didn't not have the salt component.. I just use strips.. I should probably purchase that for better accuracy. And yes I use 25ml sample. I do feel the bleach affects the salt level as it is the only addition that could be the reason it goes up? The swg cell is freshwater brand. Just so perplexed how water is clear but continues to eat chlorine.. and the cc level isn't high? Even if the salt cell isn't working, shouldn't the tub be able to retain fc if there is no load and the lid is closed so no sun breakdown? So on 1/27 I doused it with 3c bleach.. the fc spiked, but was only 14 after 1 1/2hr.. which the 3c according to my calculation should have drove fc initially to 36ppm. At 9hr out it was down to 6.2. Today it is .2 or less.. and no one has been in it. Cc is also .2 or less. Other values are: pH 7.5, ta 70, cya 90 (I don't know how that got so hi! I think I must have misread it at some point and thought it was low so added some doses of dichlor), ch 80, salt 2000? (Test strip so limited accuracy). I also added borax during the startup but I don't have a test for that level.. I added 2 1/2c. I appreciate any insights. I am fairly new to this.. have only done 2 total water changes so far. I am keeping a spreadsheet trying to track these values and my actions and gather load etc to hopefully come up with a plan by seeing how my tub behaves given the factors of our use etc. I have looked up information here of course, but if anyone has specific links to recommend for a saltwater tub set up and maintenance that would save me search time 😁. If seeing my spreadsheet would help, I can try to figure out how to link that here. I think I need to just do a drain and refill, but it is so cold now. I expected this water to last longer.. the bather load has not been excessive at all

Hello all I have referred to this site often and those special guys that have all the answers (you know who you are!) I have learned a lot and have been using the dichlor transition to bleach method overlayed onto a swg tub. My current situation has me perplexed though. Water is clear but chlorine continues to be 'eaten' and the swg doesn't seem to be producing. Not sure why this would be and don't know if I am missing something?? I will try to provide info I think you would ask for. Just a couple days ago I did a shock with 2cup bleach because of the scenario I have described of clear water but constant chlorine loss. I thought this solved everything as it popped the chlorine up and I had a residual the next day. At this point I thought whatever was eating the chlorine that was invisible (ie no cloudy water?) had been eradicated and that the swg would take over from there. BUT, today chlorine is back to less than .2 (fc of course)... cc is .4. So I'm not sure how to proceed. Prior to the shock I was just adding a little bleach each day to maintain the fc. So ph is @ 7.4 Cya a little high at 80 (this is taylor test.. this is approx as I'm always a bit unsure when the black dot actually disappears!) Salt is @ 1750.. that is before I added this most recent 2c bleach Tub size is 340g And I recently replaced the swg cartridge Thanks for any suggestions SherryRae