WiseOne

Much appreciated!

Thanks again. I actually mostly use a pool master 5-way test kit (solutions and titration). I realize that it doesn't give me the resolution that would be helpful for the sanitizer, and I will ultimately invest in the Taylor 2006 or the TFP equivalent. The pool master kit does give me a titrated total alkalinity reading. And isn't the pH readout on the Taylor also a color comparison readout, so depends on my ability to distinguish the colors? If so, the only differences I see are the FAS / DPD test for the sanitizer and a calcium hardness test. Totally makes sense what you say about the low sanitizer level not being sufficient. I am the only user of my hot tub, so maybe not as big an issue as for some. Are there any drawbacks to using higher bromine levels, such as respiratory or skin irritation?

Thank you, Waterbear. I appreciate your precision. I had the water tested at a pool store with computerized readouts and verified my reading of test strips. With the Frog, Br can be as low as 1, so I'm happy with that, at least for now. My comment that it "feels balanced" was more of an intuitive sense based on water clarity, pH stability, lack of foaming and odor. I followed your suggestion of lowering pH and then raising TA. Things are much closer now. I wonder if you could put up a sticky with simple instructions of which chemicals and processes to use to routinely raise/lower pH and alkalinity. I thought I had read here previously that washing soda was good for raising pH with minimal effect on TA, whereas baking soda would raise TA with little effect on pH; and that aeration was an effective way to raise pH. You suggest here that washing soda is not useful for hot tubs. I'd actually enjoy understanding the (basic) chemistry of each addition. The other sticky I'd love to see would describe the actual chemistry for a bromine tub. What happens to the sodium bromide with addition of oxidizer (Cl or O3 or non-chlorine shock); does the bromine dissipate with use or convert back to NaBr; what is the effect of sunlight on the bromine reserve and active bromine; etc. Thanks again.

Apologies if this has been asked before. I couldn't find it. I've seen how to lower TA, but this is the opposite. 215 gallon spa using 3-step Bromine sanitation and Frog mineral stick. Br 1.2 pH 8.3 TA 45 Ca Hardness 170 Borate 50 I'm guessing I need to overly increase TA and then lower pH. Questions are: Best to use washing soda or baking soda to raise TA? I'll use dry acid to lower pH. How far over to? I've found the tub "feels" balanced and stays that way with TA around 80-100 and pH around 7.8. Thanks.

Thanks for the responses. It's helpful to know that bromine levels will be very high after shocking. I was just surpised how long it took to come down. You caught me regarding the floater. I had it in for a few hours but then realized the Br levels were high (after shock), so removed it. After turning off the ozone, leaving the floater out and leaving the cover off for a few hours per day over several overcast days, the bromine level finally dropped to 8. I heated the water and used the tub, after which Br was down to 2. I've just put the floater back in, pretty much closed off. Will see where things sit tomorrow. I will follow your suggestion and leave O3 off for now, until things are stable.

Thanks, Waterbear. But that were the cause. Floater wasn't put in yet at all. No sun and cold outside. Will running the jets reduce bromine, or just evaporate water? 215 gallon. I had this problm with the last water change after shocking on iniitial fill. Am I using too much sodium bromide? I used less than recommended on packaging? Any thoughts about using O3? Does it matter if it is on while trying to reduce bromine levels?

I'm following Waterbear's 3-step Bromine method. I've added 1 tablespoon NaBr and activated it with 2 tsp dichlor. My bromine levels are now >10 and haven't gone down for almost a week. I turned off the ozone and have removed the bromine floater. pH 7.6 and TA 80m Borate 40, measured before adding the diclor. What am I missing? How do I get those levels down so I can use the tub? Also, do you recommend ozone be left on or off? It seems that it would provide some of the oxidation needed to keep the contaminants minimized. Thanks.