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CanadianSpaTech

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Everything posted by CanadianSpaTech

  1. Video not working Post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover of the pack if there is one. No... spa will normally heat in low speed so if you can run in low it should heat Motors don't loose power or flow unless there is a restriction or blockage of some sort. Suggest you remove the filters and try running without and see if it heats. Another thing you might want to check is to disconnect the coupler/union at the face of the pump and make sure there is nothing lodged in the impeller. Disconnect the pump from the circuit board and test for power in each speed to see if you get power off the board going to the pump... or you can disconnect the wires at the back of the pump and test there. It could also be a stuck or burnt high speed relay. It will run on low and when you engage high speed it sends power to both speeds at the same time and cuts out. In this case you will usually hear a hard buzzing noise before it cuts out. If you think it is a relay issue remove the circuit board from the housing and have a look on the back for darkened or burnt areas. Let us know how you make out.
  2. Some videos you might find helpful here: https://www.youtube.com/@hkissmann/videos Manual here: https://blueprint.sirv.com/Hydropool/pdfs/self_cleaning/2017-Self-Clean-Owners-Manual-English.pdf I don't see a "Lock" mode in the manual. Make sure spa is in "Beginner" mode for now and see if it runs. Also engage "Smart Winter" mode... page 22
  3. Yes they can... Usually the spring loaded flapper at the bottom of the filter housing called a filter bypass valve. Scum bugs have a way of mysteriously getting past filters. https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/52483-filter-bypass-valve/
  4. Post photos of the spa pack, circuit board and schematic on the inside cover if there is one. The board is stuck in a boot loop. Low level power supply could be the issue and you would need an electronics repair person to fix. Where are you located?
  5. Looks like a Gecko topside... https://www.poolandhottubdepot.com/k-8-sl-tsc-8-ge1-topside-control-for-some-m-class-and-s-class/ I would call Gecko directly and ask what the correct replacement panel is. 1-800-784 3256
  6. Use a knife and cut a small incision along the edge and use a flathead screwdriver in the cut and a hammer to tap it loose. Suspect it is the wrong filter and it should either have a hole in the center or a handle on top. I once had to drill 2 small holes in the top and put a pair of needle nose pliers into the holes to twist on it and break it free
  7. if they are unused and match go for it. Let us know how you make out.
  8. Disconnect the plumbing at the face of the pump and check for debris. Over the years I have pulled everything from rocks to G-strings to kids toys that have gotten past the filters and lodged into the face of the pump and blocking flow. Zorbies and scub bugs are most common.
  9. It can be done DIY if you have the right tools and knowledge of how to de-solder and soldering. I normally send mine out and have them replace all the relays to freshen up the entire board but I have a guy that is local. A few youtube vids out there.
  10. Might want to contact United Spa Controls and ask MFG directly if there is a program setting that can be made.
  11. https://www.thespaworks.com/sites/default/files/2006_baja_spa_sportub_owners_manual.pdf
  12. Normally I would decline but I'm kinda curious...so pm sent
  13. You might have to go through them one at a time until you get one that works for what you have installed. Some Mfg' use their own numbers to match their topside
  14. The fuse is dedicated for the transformer. The transformer gives off a minimum of 12volts for the light, computer chip on the circuit board, and power to upper control and sensors.
  15. If you get 240V power to the pump and it's not running... pump issue
  16. so 120V and not the full 240V required for that pump. Disconnect the wires from the back of the circ and (carefully) test for 240V. If you get 240V its a pump issue.
  17. Test for power and the back of the pump if you get 240V then a pump issue It is a 240V pump how did you test it?
  18. So if not working a pump issue???
  19. That and take it apart and put it back together work more then you would think.
  20. @brittney What brand of spa? Do you have a multi meter and know how to use? Have you recently made any changes to the pack or replaced the circ? Is the circ pump 120V or 240V? Lights and stereo are usually powered 12VDC like a car. The pack sends 120V or 240V to a power supply / inverter that steps the voltage from 120 or 240 over to 12v DC. See below. You should get 12V DC at the blue connectors in photo. In the middle of the unit there are usually a LED light showing if it has power Red on left and green light on right. Red= Power in... green = 12VDC power out. Follw the wire from the pack to the unit as they can be placed in a spot where you might not see it. For the circ pump test for power coming off the board. See page 54 here: https://www.geckodepot.com/fichiers/documentsProduits/GDA/en/Techbook_in_xe_EN.pdf Verify you have power coming off the board going to the circ pump. If you don't get power off the board then you have a board or low level programming issue. If you do get power off the board then you have a circ pump issue. Same for the ozone. Might be a dumb question but you are sure the circ pump plug and the ozone plugs are not swapped around and not in the correct locations? Sorry have to ask. Might try different low level programming numbers and see if a different number works. I think some MFG's use different than stock/gecko numbers to match a proprietary topside.
  21. https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/canvas-fabric-outdoor-patio-gazebo-walls-netting-for-skyline-gazebo-black-10x12x7-ft-0882249p.html Buy a roll of 6mm clear plastic
  22. Power off.. red box A1 is far left... switch A5 down and A9 up. Down is off. Adjust other switches up or down to what you have.
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