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Everything posted by CanadianSpaTech

  1. No website. Just sell locally to existing customers. I am in the Milton area. Where are you located and what brand and model of spa?
  2. Here in Canada average lifespan is 3-5 years. Longer if they are taken care of with uv protectant. In my area there are a multitude of online sellers but in reality there are only 2 or 3 cover manufacturers and a large percentage (including me) buy from the same MFG. They also produce for a large number of OEM's. Most will offer Standard, Better and Best options at different price points. The "Best" option I offer includes upgrades to 8mil Vapor Barrier, Overlap at center skirt, full end to end foam seal a 2 rubber handles. Recommend 5"-4" taper. Prices have increased dramatically and lead times are 10 weeks out. Standard cover 2mil vapor barrier, 2 end sealing pads
  3. Video unavailable. Sounds like you need a pump rebuild. Impeller, Shaft Seal, face plate o-ring and front bearing. If the face plate of the pump is dripping at the screws it may have been frozen at some point and may be deformed as a result. If you are not DIY handy you might consider complete replacement. If you want recommendations for a pump post pics of the white tag on the motor as well as the complete pump where we can see the wet end of the pump and it's plumbing connections.
  5. Test for power coming off the circuit board using a multi meter with the pump disconnected and the pump ON indicator LED lit. Test both hi speed and low speed. If you get power to both hi and low speed at the same time you might have a stuck relay on the board. Relays can be replaced. If you get proper power off the board then the issue is at the pump. . If you think there is moisture in the pump causing the breaker trip you might want to try and dry it out with a fan, hair dryer and see if it helps. Otherwise you may have a short in the windings and require a new unit. More common with certain pumps. Post photo so we can see what you have.
  6. If you build in the spa with access panels no more then half way up the spa so you can sit on the edge of the spa and swings your legs in.. fine. If you build in the spa right up to the acrylic so it's almost flush with the deck you WILL hate it and any service work will likely have to be performed from underneath. How will you get in?...get down on your hands and knees in the snow and crawl in. It's a long way down from standing. No fun in the winter or anytime. Don't Do It!
  7. I cut the white 3/4" plastic "manifold nipple" with a vibrating tool below the jet hose, slide the clamp farther up the hose and then remove the remaining 3/4" plastic so you don't have to extend the lines (in most cases)
  8. Is the jet removeable... or is it threaded and sealed into the jet body and the jet can't be removed without breaking the seal?
  9. White O-ring goes in bather area (underwater) and the ribbon cable gets fed through the nut and the nut tightens up to the underside of the acrylic. I use ample GM marine grade silicone on the underside first around the acrylic backing and on top of the nut. hand tighten the nut and maybe a turn but not much more. Just need to compress the o-ring a bit. It WILL break if over tightened. The o-ring is the seal the silicone is extra protection. Helpful to have an extra pair of hands to put a bit of downward pressure on the top when tightening up the nut underneath to compress the o-ring. Ask bathers not to step on it or you will be doing this again.
  10. Please post your experience and if we are on the right track. Photos are great.
  11. Garden hose shop vac blower whatever ya gotta do. As for unscrewing jets would need to see photos of jet but if you can try to suck it all out by disconnecting the pump unions that attach to the pump and suck there (uneasy saying that...lol) What a manifold looks like below: Depending on how many jets are related to that pump there may be 6 lines (as shown) or there may be say 24 and there will be 4 of those connected and 1- 3/4" line feeding 1 jet. If at the end of the line there is a end cap or plug debris might pool there and start backing up plugging lines in extreme cases or even small amounts of debris that is large enough to go through the 3/4" line but not get past the smaller jet opening. Often there is a 90 degree turn in the flow of water when it gets to the jet body. Jet body 90 degree turn. This is a choke point. Top 3/8" is air injection. 3/4" Bottom comes from manifold
  12. The spas that I have worked on that have jets that are sucking in is due to a blockage in behind the jet. Last one had tiny pine needles in behind some of the jets that were getting sucked in through the foot well pump returns and not getting cleaned out by the filters. You may have to take a bunch of jets out to find the blockage if there is one. Those neck jets might be where the blockage is but it may be in another set of jets that are fed water from the pumps ahead of the neck jets. Do you get a lot of debris in the footwell? Last one I had to drain the spa down and remove all the jets that are on the same pump and use my shop vac to both suck and blow out the jets to try and gat as many of the pine needles out as possible. Unfortunately is was a short lived fix as it was very difficult to get them out of the plumbing lines and I suspect the manifolds were filled with the needles. I showed the customer how to and I think they had to do it several times to get the spa to run normal again. Next time I might use the shop vac from the pump end and try to suck out the manifolds from/through the pump unions. Not saying this is your issue only what I have experienced in the past. Let us know what you find and help the next person
  13. I would not use a 25amp. The 20 amp fuse is not normally pump related in my experience but I have not worked on many of the Y series packs yet. Post a photo of the schematic on the inside cover. You may want to contact Gecko tech support directly. They are usually very helpful. 1 800 784 3256 Let us know what you find out.
  14. Post pics of the board and the schematic on inside cover. There is likely 2 sensors if it is not M7 and if they are even the tiniest out of calibration they can error.
  15. @Floating Away What about a propane on demand tankless water heater. Recirculate the water from the spa back into the spa. It will get the water hot quicker than waiting for the 1KW element that is normally used in 110V spas (36+ hours from fill) and then when the water is hot let the spa take over. Run both heaters at same time and save even more time. When away run the small battery pump shown off the solar and plumb a filter inline apart from the spa or even plumb it into the spa plumbing and circulate like a circ pump through the spas filters. Won't solve all the problems but might get you close. Model shown Runs on 2 D batteries You might also consider a "salt cell" Like a Saltron mini (never used one) might help keep water sanitized while away. 6' power cord; 120 VAC, 0.2A. 12' cell cable; output: 5 VDC. https://www.spadepot.com/Saltron-Mini-Spa-Salt-Water-System-Chlorine-Generator-P2457 @RDspaguy Thoughts?
  16. It could be a nuisance tripping, the sensors could be out of calibration, or simply be faulty. I always replace both temp and hi limit at same time. If you try new sensor set and still have issue replace board. Remove filter take it out of the equation. Sounds like the spa sat for a while?
  17. @boostedws6 100% Made by Sunrans in China. They are here and will continue to gain market share. A major UK importer just opened 2 huge warehouses in the US and are filling the warehouses and reeling in dealers as we speak. Lots of smaller importers bringing them in as well setting up regional dealer networks and adding their own name to them. Off the shelf Balboa equipment, LX pumps (Jacuzzi among others). Where are you located?
  18. There are liquid products available (Stop Leak) and some have had limited short term success but it can also can gum up other parts. I do not recommend. Best shot at repair without standing it up is to use a quality GE silicone (I use marine grade) and run a bead of silicone around where the jet body meets the acrylic. It's a hail mary but it's a $6 fix (if it works) compared to a $2000 repair. At this point you don't know where it leaks but if you think it's the IX Jet seal then give it a try. The IX Jet you can silicone it at the seal but if there are cracks inside the jet then it will still leak. If it doesn't work and you can't find it from the side panels then you are standing it up IMO. Best of luck.
  19. The fatal flaw with Beechcomber is the non removeable panels and any repair to leaking plumbing involves standing the spa up and removing the bottom. Often it has to be placed up on jack stands and all the pump connections need to be plugged off to be able to get water back in it to find the leak. Big job. There are liquid products available (Stop Leak) and some have had limited short term success and I do not recommend. Best shot at repair without standing it up is to let it leak down until it reaches a point where it stops. Then I remove the jet and use a quality GE silicone (I use marine grade) and run a bead of silicone around where the let body meets the acrylic. The flo error is likely a faulty flow switch but there could be other issues and I would start there. Dirty filter can be a flow killer so remove them and try without.
  20. The SN2 error code indicates that the hi-temperature sensor in the heater or the water temperature sensor is malfunctioning. Start by removing the filters. Take them out of the equation. If there is a flow restriction the hi temp sensor might pick that up and send error. Make sure there is sufficient water flow from the circ pump and that there are no air locks in it. Look at your flow switch and you will see if the water if flowing through it correctly.
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