CanadianSpaTech

yes It is an option Where are you located?

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audio but no video... that I can see

There are a couple of capacitors on the top right side of the board. Round, black with a cross on the top. Does it look like the tops are bulging outward? You might have a low voltage power supply issue but can be difficult to trace.

Please start your own post

Do you have a multi meter and know how to use it? Test for 240V power the the 2 heater lugs. If you get 240V replace the heater element. If you don't get 240V then you likely have a blown heater relay. If you have a bad relay remove the board and have a look on the backside and you will likely see a darkened or burnt area around the heater relays. Relays can be replaced fairly cheap ($20 each) and can be done DIY with the right soldering tools and a bit of soldering knowledge. The "slightly" part of your comment tells me you might want to fins a local electronics repair shop and have them do the work. I send mine out and I will normally have them replace all the relays on the board to freshen it up. Replacing that entire pack might be difficult to find. The pack is a CS501x. The CS means it might be proprietary to Cal Spa and if so anything proprietary can be expensive to replace. In the link below it says there is a universal replacement. I would contact the seller and have them tell you your available options. Make sure the circuit board is compatible with your topside. If the universal replacement will work shop that part number for best price. Removing the circuit board might seem daunting but if you take before photos and mark wires as you disconnect it's not that bad. https://spacircuits.com/Cal-Spa-ELE09907296-Balboa--CSBP501X-Consider-the-universal-BP501U-replacement-PN-33-59375-K-which-will-replace-any-BP501Gx-board_p_11156.html https://spacircuits.com/assets/images/ELE09907296 CSBP501X 56568-04 BP501-CSBP501X-AU Tech Sheet (2).pdf

If it is a Jacuzzi or Sundance Spa post the year of manufacture. There is a recall on Temp sensors. https://www.jacuzzi.com/en-us/recall.html# Jacuzzi or not your issue is likely with the temp sensor.

Looks half in half out but unrelated to the issues you are having.

Disconnect the pump from the board and test for power coming off the board. If it has power longer then the 30 seconds it is likely a pump issue. What's a Hawk Box? Add hot water Hi limit sensor.. might move that over by the pressure switch so it is inside the spa pack

@cranbiz note the wet end... looks like an Ultra Jet Ultima wet end. The link you provided should also work.. if there is play in the plumbing https://pool-spa-supplies.com/vico-ultima-4-hp-2-s-d-230v-12a-2-spd-13-3-7-amps-1014164-16394 https://www.hottuboutpost.com/balboa-vico-ultima-4hp-230v-pump-34-430-2512n-48fr-2-speed/

Usually a start cap going/gone south but sounds like you have addressed that before. Does the shaft spin freely? On the motor end there is not really a lot you can do for a DIY rebuild. On the wet end...end if it feels tight to spin the shaft what can happen is the shaft of the motor where the impeller screws onto the shaft the shaft just behind the thread for the impeller can/will expand outward from centrifugal force. The shaft then expands outward and can/will cause the impeller shaft to also expand outward usually splitting the impeller shaft. The impeller shaft then gets locked into the pump/shaft seal. This in turn can/will start to leak. If it leaks water will run down the shaft into the face of the motor where the front bearing sits. If left unchecked for long enough the front bearing can/will rust and begin to make noise or lock up entirely. When I do a rebuild I replace the impeller (they always break) and a new shaft seal. When apart I check the front bearing and replace if needed. Back bearings are good 95% of the time. The shaft where the impeller screws on usually needs to be ground down so the new impeller screws on freely and is not tight. In short...lol a tight shaft might make starting low speed difficult for the motor.

I normally don't cut any lines. Back off the large nut on the jet back and then push jet forward far enough to remove old seal then use marine grade silicone front and back then retighten the large nut. Be sure to remove old silicone on backside before re siliconizing it back in.

@Grant D Please start your own thread in the future. It could be. What size breaker do you have it connected to? 15A? With the pump drawing 13A you are right up against the breaker max. If you have ozone and a light on add those amp draws to the calculation of total amp draw. What is wrong with the original pump/motor? Why not rebuild it?

Stuck hi speed pump relay sending power to both speeds at the same time? This will cause a hard buzzing noise and then pump will cut out. Disconnect the pump from the board and test for power off the board and see if it is sending power to both speeds at same time. Will run in high but when you go to low the high speed is still engaged... hard buzz then clicks off. Please verify and post results.

I use GE Marine grade silicone. Silicone on the backside on the nut face and the thread (make sure to clean away old silicone) Front side in bather area is not needed if you have a gasket o-ring. Can't over use silicone in my book.

First confirm incoming power white to black 120V, white to red 120V red to black 240V. Next post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover

Nope... Thank a design engineer. It can be done with a long ratcheting wrench a click and prayer at a time... but honestly remove the 2 front bolts and the plumbing unions at the wet end and use a pry bar to rip the back 2 out. On reinstall just reattach the front 2 to hold it in place and you will be fine.

When the pump is trying to start in low there is a slot in the motor shaft at the back end of the motor. Use a flat screw driver in the slot and give the shaft a spin/turn to help it to start. See if it starts up with help. Let us know results.

Plugs to an external 120V plug and has a heater inside the cabinet. It will notify your smart device if there is a breaker trip or even a total power out it will ping you to tell you there is trouble.

Can't expand the photo big enough to get a good look but it looks like the K2 relay might be blown (at top edge of board near middle). Can you post a better photo of that relay or have a look and see if it has a dark or burnt looking area around it. If yes pull the board and look on the back and see if it is burnt. Also what size GFCI do you have installed? 40A 50A or 60A. Using the table in the schematic for the dip switch settings it is set with dip switch 3 in the up position allowing for both pumps to run in high speed along with the heater all at the same time. Did you set it to this setting or did it come that way?

http://www.hydroquip.com/Owners Manuals/SOLID STATE/4230-6230-ECO3/Troubleshooting_Guide.pdf See pages 9 and 11. Set program jumpers located in diagram on page 10. I can see why you are concerned and would recommend contacting seller to confirm 100%

Was it wired wrong at the GFCI?

You can dry out the front but if water got behind the circuit board it might stay wet longer. Not seeing a lot of the new Gecko stuff and have fallen way behind on the newer Gecko Y series knowledge. Fully on board with Balboa as a replacement

Research the dealer as much as you do brand, price and model. A Warranty is useless if you can't get timely service when needed.

Go to showroom on Sat around 1pm and announce your displeasure for all to hear. He will likely follow you home and have it fixed by 3 😈