CanadianSpaTech

Sorry I'm in Toronto area

@MrScotty where are you located? Might be able to help with used parts. Have you tried to add water yet? If frozen you could be in trouble with cracked manifolds and with a Dynasty Trident that can be fatal or $$$

See Page 88 here in the Catalogue: https://www.elmsalesandequipment.com/product-catalogue.htm

Since Trumps Tariffs I am (Canadian) really having a hard time helping Americans but today I will make an exception only because what I see you may never. It's how we all feel up here. Is what it is. First No Flow issue... Yes. Looking at your plumbing where it enters the face of the pump you have a Tee and a down pipe with a closed ball valve I can only assume is to drain the spa? So for the water to enter the pump it comes down the pipe hits the ball valve and goes back up and into the side of the Tee then into the pump face and pushed through the heater tube and the rest of the system back into the spa. Is there turbulence/cavitation occurring at the Tee junction adding air and/or reducing flow on low speed? Might have used a WYE fitting here but a direct 90/45 would be preferred. Research "liquid flow Through a Tee fitting". Perhaps you can find someone fluent in fluid dynamics. IMO everything else should be/looks correct... even the 30" lift Is this the cause of your issue... no idea I'm just spit balling but as a last resort should be considered if all else fails. @Spa Board Doctor thoughts on this? Like @Spa Board Doctor said try removing jet internals and increasing flow. Good Luck.

Hi Peter, Glad you posted where you are from as I am no longer interested in helping Americans. Is what it is. "The LCD in controller went bad"... Were you getting the same error message with the old topside? A lot of IN.XE packs have issues with the low level power supply capacitor on the board. A repairable issue. Remove the board from it's housing and check the capacitors for bulging tops. https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/53524-gecko-inxe-spa-pack-stuck-in-boot-up-low-voltage-power-supply/#comment-208142

Might have a weak start/run capacitor on the pump. Are you turning the shaft at the back of the motor to get it going again?

Relays can be done DIY... but you need a iron the gets really hot to remove the solder. Some shops will do it some will not and tell you to replace. I take mine to a local electronics repair guy. @Spa Board Doctor might be able to help.

I never remove the screws from a split nut union unless the split nut union is the cause of the leak (rare). Use an oil filter wrench and back the off and to retighten them. You can also place a flat screwdriver against the raised nubs that go around the union and tap with a small hammer to loosen them off.

Post photos

If you have 240 going into the pack from the GFCI at the red and black wires (120 White Neutral to each red and black) and the heat indicator light on the topside is solid and not flickering and you don't get 240 at J100 to/and J101 or off the board lugs going to the heater element then bad relay.

Place in dryer and get warm. place in pop cooler when tubbing

Post photos of the topside the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover so we can see what you have and how it is set up

A new topside? or new wifi module? Not that I am aware of. Test the glass fuses (F6- F4) https://lesliespool.com/blog/troubleshooting-spa-topside-control-panels.html?srsltid=AfmBOorLZ9hqM03U_zBUXYpkK719EbRU2xU6VWu6zmf22DfxzS4-4lZw

Not sure if this helps you out... https://www.pentestpartners.com/security-blog/hackers-in-hot-water-pwning-smart-hot-tubs-yes-really/

Yes

The one on the heater is the hi limit sensor and does not display temperature on the topside. Re temp sensor: Disconnect the connector from the circuit board. There might be another sensor attached to the connector. To remove the 2 wires from the connector you will need a small pic to depress the wires and pull them out of the connector. Jacuzzi has used 2 different styles of wire ends to go into the connector.. box end connector and a curled finger connector. Just make sure to verify the part number to match your year and model series. Once you get the wire ends disconnected attach a piece of string to it long enough to go from the pack to the filter area. When you unthread the sensor from the filter pull it through and then attach the new sensor wire to the string and work backwards. You might need to reuse the original o-ring or make sure to order a new o-ring. Don't think the new sensor comes with the o-ring Original one is usually still good. Tighten it back in enough to compress the o-ring but don't overtighten it. Good Luck

Usually on the sidewall in the filter housing. suspect

Jacuzzi Sensor Recall: https://www.jacuzzi.com/en-ca/recall.html If your spa is within the dates listed make them come and fix.

Place a small space heater inside the cabinet to keep from freezing if needed. Breaker trips are usually (not always) related to a bad heater element. Disconnect the heater from the circuit board and see if the breaker then holds. If it still trips dis connect each component one at a time until the breaker holds. Ozone next then pumps. Post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover if you need direction

@CraigF Not uncommon. I usually have my customers do a purge after the first month. The spa coming from a manufacturer has been tested for leaks before shipping and the water might have been used over and over picking up debris from the manufacturing process. It might then go into stock and sit for days, weeks even months before being shipped to you. The residual water from testing sitting in the lines can go stagnant. Also your spa is new to you and you are still in the "honeymoon" stage and the spa is likely getting above average use. Bathing suits are likely fresh from the laundry and full of detergent as well. Never wash your suits with the regular laundry. Just rinse after use. Wash filters weekly, Bi weekly at most. Soak in filter wash every 6 weeks. Use Spa Shock to control the organic contaminates and don't over use test strips. Suggest you invest in a Taylor Test kit as test strips can be hit/miss. Spa maintenance should come down to 10 mins once a week. Keep at it you will get there.

Waterbear... https://www.elmsalesandequipment.com/product-catalogue.htm (First line.. Bromine Booster...page 56 or see link below) I can still get Sodium Bromide compatible with all salt water bromine generators through my supplier here in Canada. What am I missing? Is the product different then what was banned? https://www.hottubessentials.ca/sodium-bromide-salt.html?srsltid=AfmBOopSbiPZAJflVQrHdP_8lhR9RYsYOctH_n4FLhSn3bw7sWlOoVut

I am by far no chem guy but most Chlorine pucks are Trichlor and are designed for use in pools. They are very slow release and acidic. A lot of spa manufacturers will void warranty if chlorine tabs are used. From what I have seen they are very hard on jet seals. Chlorine granular are Dichlor and fine for use in spas. Suggest you have a look and read up at the sticky's posted at the top of the Chemical section of this forum. @waterbear might be able to add some insight here.

No Just below the copper wire at left in the middle of the motor there should be a plastic dust cap and the motor shaft is behind it. The 2 black humps are the start capacitor ad the run capacitor. Be careful with the caps as they hold a charge.

When you have the spa where it should be running in low speed remove the dust cover at the back of the motor right dead center at the back end you will see the shaft of the motor. It will have a slot in it for a flat head screwdriver can fit. Give the shaft a spin and see if it starts up. If you have a weak start cap you can usually kick start low speed. Usually there will be a hum if it is struggling to start and spinning the shaft will help it along. If you have correct power coming off the board in each speed then next test it at the back of the pump where the wires connect to the pump and verify you have correct power in each speed. If you do then replacement is likely. Yes you can DIY the replacement. Suggest you buy a oil filter wrench to make disconnecting the plumbing. You will have to drain the spa to do the replacement. https://www.amazon.ca/TOOLEAGUE-Adjustable-Filter-Removal-Filters/dp/B0CXM2PJ47/ref=asc_df_B0CXM2PJ47/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=706745692945&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15998523503888696476&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9211975&hvtargid=pla-2308029373126&mcid=973279c3da743d6db1876e706666a8c8&gad_source=1&th=1

@Torben RAhbek Please start your own post. Include photos of the circuit board and schematic on the inside cover. Check your filter cycle duration. If set for the spa to filter longer then needed the heat shedding off the pumps can overheat the water. Also remove the filter. Take it out of the equation.