Matt M

B.L.U.F. - everything seems to be working now! After doing the tests, I wired everything back to normal, turned power back on and after prime mode the circ pump came on and is running. 🙌 Here’s the results of the diagnostic tests: Fuses all checked out as good Then switched pump 2 and circ pump on the board and powered up. The circ pump came on during warm up, but pump 2 did not. However, I now realize I might not have waited long enough to see if it would come on. I assumed the circ pump spot on the circuit board was out so I gave up quickly. Then put everything back and powered up. Waited for prime mode to end and the dr code flashed for a second but then the sweet sound of the circ pump came on and it was running, dr code went away. Will obviously report if code comes back, but with the pump running now I think I should be in the clear. So how did the issue resolve itself? I’m new to this all, but I have two guesses: 1) either there was air in the circ pump lines that was able to be cleared when I forced it on pressing the pump 2 button during prime mode, or 2) when I was swapping out the connections on the board, I noticed the W2 connection wire (which connects the circ pump and ozone to the RED AC bank) looked somewhat loose, so I pushed on it to make sure it was connected properly. So possible it came loose at some point..assuming that would keep the circ pump from running. Let me know if you have any other thoughts, but truly appreciate the help!

I believe pumps were out of prime before I tested the board, but I didn’t test the fuses yet because I thought power was coming off the board. Will test the fuses tonight!

Apologize, some of my pictures were rotated.

CanadianSpaTech - really appreciate the help! I disconnected the circulation pump wire (4-prong adapter) from the circuit board at position J47 and measured the voltages - see pictures below. The wiring has it setup with the black wire going into position 1, tan wire going into position 3, and green wire going into position 4. Here were the voltage read-outs: Black to Tan - 0 V Black to Green - 120 V Tan to Green - 120 V So definitely power coming off the board. Does the two 120V readings add up to feed the 230V pump? I'm also attaching pictures of the old pump specs and the new pump specs, to show they are the same (verified before purchasing). They are the same brand, and have the same HP, Volts, HZ and Speed. Slightly different model numbers, but read that the new one I bought was exchangeable with the old model number. I cannot see the shaft spinning on the new circ pump when its powered on. It wasn't spinning on the old one either, which is why I installed the new one. Also added pictures of the schematic and the circuit board. Because power is coming off the board, should we rule out a bad fuse or relay? Most likely culprits being I accidently wired the new pump wrong (unlikely but possible), air-lock, or impediment blockage in hose line somewhere? Any other thoughts?

Its a Circ-master pump, and understood but doubt it failed right after installation. Will attempt the air release though as I haven't done that after I filled the hot tub back up. Thanks!

By the way, its a Bullfrog X8 Spa with a Balboa M7 control system.

Hot tub continuous circulation pump is not running and causing dr, dy (flow related error codes). When I manually start the two jets the codes go away and don't come back until the jets are off and water movement through the heater has slowed/stopped. The circulation pump should be turning to keep the water moving but I don't see it turning at all. I just replaced the circulation pump because the original one was 5 years old and not turning, but now the new one is not turning either. So what could be keeping the circulation pump from running?