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  1. The Consumer Products Safety Commission recommends a maximum hot tub temperature of 104 degrees for private hot tubs. These strict guidelines are for your safety. Temperatures of 106 degrees or higher can lead to heat stroke. We absolutely do not support overriding spa temperatures to achieve higher temperatures. EDIT: For more information, please read our blog post on the topic.
    4 points
  2. Best Thing I could have done to this spa! The controls are SO much better with the new topside panel. I'm sure this will be safer, more efficient, more reliable alternative; and perfect solution for the problematic old equipment I used to have. So far the new Balboa kit is working great. Tricky to configure at first. After a Youtube video of someone installing and configuring one it was a poc. It did take me all day though, had to replace a blown breaker to top it off. I'm a low voltage technician... I probably shouldn't screw with some things but I do... But what can I say. Just glad I didn't screw up the equipment! Thanks for all the help and input from everyone here.
    4 points
  3. Happy birthday America! And me! Officially over the hill now at 51 (me, not America). Chillin', grillin', and blowin' **** up! Have a good one, and be safe!
    3 points
  4. First go-to is a magic eraser. If that doesn't work, try ascorbic acid (vitamin c tablets) or muriatic acid water (50/50), next try bleach water (1/2 cup/gallon). If those don't work let us know.
    3 points
  5. It's not corrosion, it's scale, aka hard water deposits, caused by calcium. In water, it is the result of high ph, and on surfaces the result of evaporation, which means a small leak. Acid will dissolve it, but can damage the heater element. If you have good flow through it, just watch your ph and let it go. If it's clogged, get a new one.
    3 points
  6. 3 points
  7. Are the jets in the lower half on a different pump than those in the upper half? If so, your likely looking at another air lock in the lower half. If the lower half are on a different pump, do you hear the pump start when you turn it on? If the pump does not hum or try to start, you have other mechanical issues that other are better suited to help you with. The only other thing that comes to mind is if you have a diverter valve and it is set incorrectly (to top only). Not familiar with your tub so I am only guessing.
    3 points
  8. Don't fill until they are there. They might need to move the spa depending on space or where the wire is entering the spa. A new spa will be fine sitting empty. Once they start the electrical install and the spa is in final position you can start filling and it will be full by the time they have completed their work. Be sure to fill through the filter hole so you don't get an air lock in the pump wet end. Enjoy
    3 points
  9. It's an aftermarket gizmo that is "supposed to make your motors run more efficiently on less power". It's a snake oil device. Get it out of the system, it's not helping anything and in reality, hurting the efficiency of the pump motors.
    3 points
  10. In the US, by code, a gfci can be used to protect a circuit with no ground. That was one of the original purposes they were designed for. Technically, the green wire should be taped with white phase tape at each end, but it works the same. I would still recommend a ground wire, as a gfci can fail, leading to a possible electrocution hazard. Make sure to test it frequently.
    3 points
  11. Have used an oil filter wrench forever. You won't over squeeze the fitting and you can "feel" tightness a little better.
    3 points
  12. Just wanted to send a note of thanks for Waterbear's contributions to the forum. We've had a 7000 lt swim spa for a few years now and I've always struggled with water quality. Based on his posts this is what I have done... Cleaned filters and pipes Emptied the spa Refilled spa Bought a Lamotte ColorQ 2x PRO 7 testing kit Balanced Calcium Hardness Balanced pH and Alkalinity Added 260 grams Sodium Bromide (bought in the USA and shipped down under - not available here) Shocked with 500 ml Liquid Chlorine (12.5%) This morning, after adding the Sodium Bromide yesterday afternoon, the test results are as follows: Bromine = 6 ppm pH = 7.7 Alkalinity = 94 ppm Calcium Hardness = 190 Not perfect, but not too bad for an accountant playing with his new chemistry set. The Bromine and pH look a little high, but I'll test daily and see how it shifts. Moving forward my plan is: - Experiment with the bromine tablet dosage in a floater - Shock weekly with a cup (250 ml) of Liquid Chlorine Unless of course, Waterbear tells me otherwise... Thanks again, Chris
    3 points
  13. Dude, you are a star (I hope), So first thing we did was check the pressure switch and it was working fine, followed the wires back and they were fine. Jumped them together like you suggested and nothing. Tested the live wires on the heater and no voltage so we traced everything back and there was a loose connection. Now the heater light has come on the top controls and the heater element is at 230V ! Hurrahhhh. Its pulling just over 12amps now rather than 4 before so thats a good sign. Hopefully in a few hours it will have gone up in temp. Thanks again for you assistance on this, You have been a huge help
    3 points
  14. As a dealer, I require 25% down to order and final balance is due upon delivery. I will collect cash/check on delivery and will take credit card information prior to delivery and charge once delivery has been completed. While I will not condone or defend another dealers policy, it is up to each dealer how they handle final payment. I have had a few instances where customers didn’t want to pay in full until the hot tub was actually hooked up and running and in those instances I did allow to leave a $500 balance open.
    3 points
  15. @cranbizUPDATE: So, we are seeing eye-to-eye! I reflow and cleaned up my repair and found that 2 of the many film capacitors didn't look right on the meter so "out with the old and in with the new" and BAM! everything is operational. Apparently, the first failure must have been the capacitor then when I reset the breaker and repowered that's when the Line-1 connector popped! Thank goodness that was it. Replacement board or entire controller $500-600 OR 2 pieces from a Amazon 100 pcs Capacitor kit for $15...FIXED!!! On another note, does anyone have any of these boards that they do not want?
    3 points
  16. Can you see the hot tub running?
    3 points
  17. Nah, you'd have to go into the shell or before the heater, not enough heat loss between the heater and the tub in the plumbing. Even then it wouldn't noticeably overheat the spa. Early balboa systems had the temp sensor in the shell and the high limit on the heater, and you would find little difference when the pump/heater was on. Turn it off and the pipes cool faster than the tub, which is partly why they moved them both back to the heater. It helps avoid any frozen pipes/pumps from 10 hours with no filter cycle or call for heat. Actually, those few of us who answer all these questions everyday get to know each other, and we like to joke around. That was for me, not you, and I found it rather amusing.😉 The other thing you have to remember is that we aren't just talking to you, we are talking to every clown who reads this post for the rest of eternity, or until the internet breaks. And yes, we DO feel that we have to babysit most of them. DIYers are not known for doing things right, or safely. I have to tell people to be sure they turn the power off before they touch any wires in the spa. Sense is NOT common, whatever they may say. We have to keep that in mind or risk being responsible for any results. So we just assume that, someday, a total moron is going to read this. It's generally that guy we're talking to, not the person who raised the question. If we weren't industry pros we could give you any bad advice we cared to, but as we are professionals presented as experts in our field we have a greater responsibility than your average Joe. So we will continue to post things that discourage people from fiddling around with their safety devices, even though we are aware that you already got the hint. Some folks aren't so quick.
    3 points
  18. Do you have that kind of time? That's alot to atone for... 🤔
    3 points
  19. Thanks for all your help everyone! I found the issue. The wiring was corroded a bit after not being used for 5 years so I cut off all the ends and rewired it and it powered up just fine. Thanks!
    3 points
  20. Thank you for that information. We are very much aware of the "hanging chads" so to speak. Most times the purge gets the low hanging fruit of bio-gunk on the first cycle. Letting it set for a few minutes and turning on the pump intermittently will usually cause enough water flow propulsion to knock loose Biofilms that were still hanging on for dear life. Very good information you have shared.
    3 points
  21. FIXED! So after going through what you had said at the GFCI and voltage being correct. I checked continuity between the ground and white. There was none. I went back to the panel in the garage and the white had come loose. I thought it was secure but it was completely loose. Thanks so much for the help! Hopefully this helps someone else with similar symptoms.
    3 points
  22. ...and find a new service tech
    3 points
  23. Ok, so it's probably heating from residual heat. Post up pictures of the PC board in the spa pack. Make sure we can see the relays and the dip switches (if any) clearly. Go ahead and order up a couple of fuses and replace the blown fuse.
    3 points
  24. Starting at the pump and working back you have a 45 degree pump union glued into the gate valve, The gate valve is glued into a 2" x 2" x 2" T fitting. You have soft plumbing on the far side of the T fitting and it can be cut where the soft plumbing goes into the T fitting. You will likely have to use a 2" coupler to add in a piece of 2" plumbing to reattach it back into the T fitting. Anytime you cut something you end up 1.5-2" short. Sometimes you get lucky and have enough slack in the soft plumbing to be able to reattach it but you will likely not so you have to use a coupler and a 3" bit of 2" soft hose. NOW the difficult part... where does the other "leg" of the T fitting go to... You can't cut rigid plumbing FITTINGS and reattach a new piece. You have to go to soft hose to soft hose to the pump union and replace everything that is a rigid fitting in between. On the pump side new union then new Gate valve then new T fitting straight through to Soft plumbing. You need to dig out the last side of the T Fitting and see where it goes and if you can get to a spot with soft plumbing that you can cut add a 2" coupler and a 3" piece of soft hose to rejoin the soft plumbing back into rigid pipe and rebuild it all. If that last "leg" of the T fitting goes directly into the pump return fitting in the foot well you will be replacing that as well. You have to do all this AND get it all to line up so the pump union can sit flush up against the pump face so it doesn't leak. I attach the pump union first and work from there dry fitting everything first so you know it's flush up against the pump face. Side note.. you might have a straight section of 2" rigid plumbing that goes into the T fitting instead of soft plumbing and it could be cut and a coupler used just like with soft plumbing... cut it and add a coupler to the straight rigid pipe and use soft on the other side of the coupler to go into the T fitting. It doesn't have to be rigid pipe. Dig out that foam and see where it goes. Post more pics and we can go from there. You can buy a serviceable gate valve that can be taken apart if ever needed in the future and if they had of used one you would not be in this situation. It has o-rings that can wear out but are cheap to replace ...but that would be to easy... and we all know nothing is easy...ever. Would love to take an spa engineer/designer out for a day and say here you fix it.
    3 points
  25. If not in the equipment bay or drain, it's probably the light fitting. Those D1s are notorious for it. I'll explain how to fix it tomorrow sometime. It's a process, and it's late. Maybe there's a video out there. It's not hard, frankly it will take longer to explain it typing with one thumb on my phone than it would take me to do it. Ok, maybe that's an exaggeration, but you get the point. 😉
    3 points
  26. I put sealant under the black trim plate and used that to hold it in place. It comes with a self-adhesive backing, but it was two piece and I didn't like it so I used sealant instead.
    3 points
  27. The new pack did come with all the needed cords. I did have to change the red and black wires on my pump as this pack was running the high speed pump instead of the low speed pump while heating. I opened the hole up for the controller and cut the plate down some to fit. The pack was a direct replacement for the old one and went in very easy.
    3 points
  28. Couldn’t have done this with out your help thank you IMG_2321.MOV
    2 points
  29. If you try this: Don't mix, danger !!!! One at a time, rinse in between.
    2 points
  30. You need a 2 speed 230V pump. It should be close to the amp draw of your existing pump. This one should work. https://lesliespool.com/century-flex-48-48y-thru-bolt-2-or-0.25-hp-dual-speed-above-ground-pool/367389.html
    2 points
  31. Vinyl exposed to sun will dry and crack. Use 303 aerospace protectant. Cracked vinyl is rarely the cause of a cover becoming heavy. Under the vinyl, the foam insert is covered in plastic, and the underside often has drain holes or is porous to allow condenstion to escape. If it is the vinyl causing it you would find a volume of water sloshing around inside. Most heavy covers are the result of chemical fumes breaking down the plastic and allowing the foam to absorb moisture. So, what is your maintenance routine?
    2 points
  32. Thanks and yep, I bought a 5 pack of the AZ762-1A-12DE relays (K2 Position) on amazon for $15. Removing the relay was a little trickier than I expected.. to pull the solder out of the board, it took a bit of work. First time I've done this and my soldering gun and desoldering pump are cheap. I ended up taking the relay apart and removing the relay pegs 2x at a time. Since there are six, it came off in 3x parts. I'm sure it wasn't the formal way to do it, but it worked. The board is back on the spa and the low flow pump is working great now. It's a shame that people replace the entire board for hundreds of $ when the relay is so cheap. But hopefully these threads help someone else save some $ as they have for me. Thanks all!
    2 points
  33. Catalina used to be a decent brand. LPI bought them out a few years ago to bolster their hot tub lines reputation (which is why LPI keeps changing tub lines). Like I said before, the Catalina Spas of today are not the same quality as the Catalina Spas of 4-5 years ago. I hope you got a good one and enjoy it. If it works for you and you don't need service from the dealer, you should have many years of enjoyment. Just don't expect much customer service from LPI.
    2 points
  34. The post you answered is 15 years old. I really doubt that he needs this info now. However, someone else might so please do post up your findings. Pleas do that in a new post so it's easy to find.
    2 points
  35. Beachcomber's are great until you get a leak that is NOT in the equipment area then you are in for big repair bills. Side panels don't come off so you have to stand up the spa $$ and remove the bottom and dig out soaking wet foam $$ until you can hopefully find an obvious leak and that can be difficult with all the wet foam. Often it will have to be dug out and then laid back down onto jack stands $$ and fill it with water to make it leak. To do this all the equipment has to be disconnected $$ and plugs made up to cap all the plumbing so you can fill it. Once you have located the leak you then have to stand it back up $$ and make the repair. Then you have to re insulate it somehow with Roxul bat or some other type insulation $$ because you can't put the wet foam back in. Once that is complete then it's often back onto stands to fill again and test or you can take the risk you got it all and reattach the bottom and lay it back down and reconnect everything and fill $$. As an independent tech I have to call in movers to do the lifting and laying it back down and they charge for each trip out. Now the leak could be a $2 fix but you are in for a $1000 plus repair in most cases and not uncommon for $2-$3K bill... Arctic has it's own set of design problems that take them of my recommend list. There are some snakey salesmen out there so spend as much time researching the dealer as you do the brand name. JMO
    2 points
  36. Randy, I'm not aware of any specific source of information that will help you. I'd just ask specific questions regarding the problems you're having. Also, it always helps to post pictures of your system.
    2 points
  37. Hot springs designs have this in mind, and have drain points from all the plumbing low points, but even these still freeze and break pipes. And the plumbing drains are a source of leaks in the spa.
    2 points
  38. I never leave it empty for longer than an hour, so the seals at the jet-to-tub seals cannot dry out - I wonder if that helps with longevity?
    2 points
  39. Remove filters. If pressure improves, clean or replace filters.
    2 points
  40. I worked for the company that made Combat ant and roach killers. The key to killing ants, roaches, termites is to kill the nest/colony, not to band-aid trying to kill individual insects. So you need a product that community insects like roaches, ants, or termites take back to share with their little friends, killing the nests. In other words: cannot kill the insect before he shares it. For roaches or ants, look for a bait containing hydramethylnon or fipronil as active ingredient.
    2 points
  41. Same as Jacuzzi/Sundance. 2 hot 1 ground white wire is capped off if it is there. Personally I would still run 3 wire plus ground and cap the white in case you ever want to change out the spa in the future. #6 3 wire using unprotected stove wire until you go to the outside and have it through the wall and directly into the GFCI Box and then run a protected Tech 90 cable to the spa...but that's just me
    2 points
  42. When that system starts up the first thing to turn on is the circulation pump. It moves water through the heater and closes the flow switch. Once it has detected flow and the switch has told the circuit board there is flow it the allows the heater to turn on. If the flow switch is faulty or the circ pump is not flowing water then it should not turn the heater on. Now if the circ pump is working intermittently which is not uncommon with the small Laing circ pumps it might detect the flow and turn on the heater but then the circ stops working and now the heater still has heat in it and normally after a heat cycle it takes up to 30 seconds to cool the heater (when heater on with no flow it will boil any water in it in 1 second...or less) it will detect that residual heat and send a hi limit error and then a watchdog error after several tries. The circ stopping mid heat cycle doesn't allow the heater to cool and the hi limit hits right away. If you look at the flow switch on start up you should be able to see into it and watch what happens. If the clear housing of the flow switch is yellowed and hard to see into hold a light behind it so you can see if the circ is starting and stopping and closing the toggle against the post and then pulling away from the post when the circ stops. You might be able to see this starting and stopping by watching the waterfall as well. The circ might run for 10 seconds or it might run for 5 mins then stop and start again...or not.. again intermittently making it hard to diagnose. This is ONE possibility.
    2 points
  43. Noooooo....!!! Replace the pack with something currently in production, and NEVER from ebay. The stories of bad ebay parts are numerous on this forum, and in my personal experience with my customers. Don't buy someone elses used pos. Post some pics of the equipment area and we'll steer you in the right direction.
    2 points
  44. And what you did is usually what would be recommended here in a non warranty repair situation. I will say that in some cases, it really is easier and cheaper to drop in a Balboa VS501 ($500 complete) or a Gecko IN.YE ($400 complete, $500 for an IN.XE) and call it a day. This is especially true for one that has a bad heater and extensive PC board damage.
    2 points
  45. Your only chance would be something that would give you some flex. Epoxys and most glues would give a ridged patch that would crack either through the patch, or at the edge of as soon as the tank flexed or expanded with pressure. You could try letting the tank dry COMPLETELY, like for a couple of days. Then pushing some high temp silicone (orange) into the crack with your thumb and let it cure while the tank is still dry. Dont make a mess, just in the crack. You still want to keep the o-ring groove clear. Even then, this attempted repair offers no guarantee. this would be a temp fix at best while you are waiting for the replacement filter or tank. Note: If you were to manage no leaks with this fix, I would not trust enough to go on holiday for a week with it like that. Good luck.
    2 points
  46. It is an ozonator, and I would replace it in my spa which has 24/7 injection. If it's a timed circulation pump I wouldn't bother.
    2 points
  47. I would also suggest that you mention the use of this spa when seeking advice on any of the forums you frequent, as this changes everything about the advice you will recieve. Yours is not a typical spa, and typical solutions may not suit your circumstances.
    2 points
  48. Even fats from bathers' skin will saponify and become soap. And CanadianSpaTech is correct about residual detergent from swimwear. I worked decades for a soap and detergent company.
    2 points
  49. I had a heater connection burn up on me as well on a Balboa board/heater. Mine was using the copper tabs instead of wires. I suspect a loose connection (based on feedback here). Since then I've made it part of my monthly routine to check those connections with a small torque wrench (specs were in the heater and board manual) to make sure they haven't vibrated loose at all. I also had an extra board and also ended up sending my burned board off to be fixed. It came back looking pretty good, but I haven't swapped it back in to test it yet. Good luck, Rob
    2 points
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