castletonia

It has to be in the electronics. The pumps only turn on when they are told to. What kind of hot tub is this?

You should be fine with either or. As long as the jet face diameter is the same and the back cone piece is the same with the tabs in the same spot, then brand shouldn’t matter.

I think you would be wise to avoid Master Spas. Too many other quality options out there. Look into Hot Spring, Caldera, Jacuzzi, Sundance, Marquis, Artesian, D1, Bullfrog, and Arctic. No such thing as chemical free. Only EPA approved sanitizers in the United States are chlorine, bromine, and hydrogen peroxide. You can supplement with mineral cartridges, borates, enzymes, and use things like O3 (ozone) or UV, but you still need one of the 3 main sanitizers. Use the dealer locators on the websites of the brands I listed above and find a hot tub that works first, then worry about the chemicals.

Nordic, Viking, maybe Artesian. Unfortunately, $4500 doesn't leave you with many options. I would honestly either save until you can increase the budget up closer to $6k-$7k or look for a quality used hot tub.

That is normal with all hot tubs wired 110v. Heater turns off when pump is on high speed. If you want heat with the pump on high, you need to convert the tub to 220v.

If the flakes look more like fish scale then it is likely scale. If it was either stringy or looked like fish food, then I would lean towards white water mold.

1. With no copper or iron and your hardness where its at, you should be fine not adding any stain & scale product. 2. Your pH and alkalinity are balanced and unless that changes there is nothing you need to do for them. 3. I personally would have just left the calcium alone at 130, but it is fine to increase it into the desired range. 4. No need to use non-chlorine shock right away. Use that later. Super chlorinate with chlorine on first fill. 5. Free chlorine is what you want to maintain between 3-5 ppm 6. Do not use the cal hypo. Only type of chlorine that you should use is di-chlor 7. DO NOT USE chlorine tabs. They are very low in pH and will dissolve rapidly in warm water. 8. No idea on converting grams to other measurements. Water temperature is irrelevant to the water chemistry. However, chemicals will react slower and dissolve slower in cold water. Also, aeration will naturally cause pH to rise and any time your jets run they are aerating the water. The result will be fluctuating pH over time.

I would be asking the seller why they are selling something brand new for so cheap, especially when it is a current part. Hot Spring stopped using the exterior control panel with brainbox after 2007. If you went ahead and tried using that control box you would also need the digital control panel. The digital control panels are meant to be mounted on the hot tub shell which there would not have been a dedicated spot on your Landmark. You would have to cut a hole in the shell to mount it and fabricate a platform for it to rest on since you would have to recess it so the buttons don't get pressed every time the cover is shut. Lastly, you would need the appropriate software file since the control boxes don't function without it. It's going to be a lot of work and headaches to get current electronics working on that hot tub. I personally would not do that and either spend the money for the correct electronics or be patient and see if something used appears on ebay or craigslist.

The newer electronics will not be compatible with the older electronics. Your exterior control panel, the brainbox behind it, the aux control panel and maybe the light will not be compatible. I'm curious what you are finding for $225. As a Hot Spring dealer, my wholesale cost is more than that.

If the relay board has burn marks, it’s fried. There could be other issues, but until you replace the relay board, you won’t know.

The original might be a 4HP motor, based on the amp draw. Replacement definitely looks like a 3HP, again, based on amp draw. He is correct though, that the impeller matters. I have seen many company's use an impeller that is smaller that what the motor claims to be. No idea if you will really notice any difference. When I would order replacement pumps for customers I would order based off the amp draw and frame size of the motor. I always wanted it to match up with what was there originally. I didn't care what the supposed HP was.

That's a really good price. I'm guessing the included cover lift is the Lift N Glide. Nothing wrong with the lift, I sell quite a few of them. The upgraded lift would be the Cover Cradle 2. From a cost standpoint, the $199 is fair based on the cost difference. I personally like the Cover Cradle better. I'm sure your dealer has both available to try on their showroom. Only you can determine if the upgrade is worthwhile to you.

I sell Hot Spring, just so you know. Overall, I think you will find Hot Spring to be condsidered one of the best, if not the best brand in the industry. They have a reputation for quality and standing behind their product. With that being said, they are not immune to having occasional problems too. I view the Hot Spot collection as being a basic, no frills hot tub. It is in my opinion well constructed, energy efficient and in my experience, reliable. With any hot tub though, a good reputable dealer is crucial and can make or break the experience. How much are they asking and what is included in the price? Since that dealer also carries Bullfrog and Sundance, might as well look at the X series and 680 series. Both are also quality manufacturers.

Could be a bad heater, bad motor, or bad GFCI. Contact the dealer you bought it from. As Cusser said, if its new, then its under warranty.

Having worked for hot tub dealers that perform their own service, all I can say is I would advise against this due to the potential service nightmare it would be. It does look really nice, but if there is ever a leak, or any reason to try and access the other 3 sides for service, the hot tub would literally have to be lifted out of the vault to do so.