castletonia

I would start by adding the 3oz dosage since your phosphates are over 1,000 ppb. What kind of hot tub do you have? I wouldn't reduce the filter duration, I would reduce the salt system output level so it produces less chlorine. If your salt levels are where the system wants them to be there is no reason to lower it. If your chlorine is at 5ppm I wouldn't worry about it, thats not very high.

2015 Marino. It's worth what your local market will allow. It was probably $6,000 - $7,000 new, depending on what your local dealer sells for. If everything is in good condition and it doesn't need a new cover or any service, I would probably be asking $3,000 and negotiate from there.

If you are using a Hot Spring cover lifter then you need a cover that has the plates in the cover to screw into and I'm not sure if other manufacturer's will offer this. I don't think there is an official lead time on covers, but I was told 8-10 weeks. I have received two cover orders so far and both were around 10 weeks. Your dealer can order covers two ways. First is to ship with hot tubs (I would advise against since hot tub lead times are looooong) and second is to order as a parts order. This will be the 10ish week lead time but your dealer has to order a minimum of 4 covers at a

I believe most stain & scale products contain phosphates as do some filter cleaners. I just refilled my hot tub last week and my tap water had phosphates around 800 ppb. I use Natural Chemistry's phosphate remover which is identical to the SpaGuard one and then I use Natural Chemistry Cleanse Weekly to keep the phosphates down. FYI, I sell hot tubs. When I sell a saltwater hot tub, or a hot tub using the @ease system by Frog, then I care about phosphates because they higher they are the less effective both systems are. If you don't have either system, or care about using the least amo

It's an oldie, 2000 Grandee.

There is a separate overflow/drain line that comes from the FreshWater Salt System housing. Water should only be able to leak out when the salt cartridge is removed and the circulation pump is running. I would be curious if the salt cartridge is not seated properly.

HP can be irrelevant depending on how well the plumbing design was engineered. If you are trying to compare HP, ignore the claim. Find out the amp draw on each motor. That will tell you how comparable each is.

Does the hot tub heat up? If it can heat up to temp then the heater is working. If this is a 115/230 convertible hot tub the heater should run at 1.5kW on 115 volt and 6kW on 230V.

The circulation pumps don't move a lot of water, maybe 7-10 gallons per minute. You're not going to feel much if any suction. Is there enough flow so that the heater is turning on?

If your dealer said 6-7 months then that is probably the general lead time. Almost every manufacturer is out 6 months plus right now. Main thing to understand is that when lead times are that far out they are likely to change a bit so if your 6-7 month initial estimate changes to 6 months or 8 months, don't be surprised.

1990's a pre-Watkins. Can you take a picture of the control panel and the control box underneath? I have no idea what electronics were used back then.

In my experience milky water is usually from high TDS but with water changes weekly that doesn't seem likely. Do you use a lot of anti-foam products?

Nope. If 3 days high chlorine ruined seals every hot tub ever made would probably have been ruined by now.

Not sure how you buy Watkins parts, but whomever you buy from, if you press the issue (politely complain), I'm sure they would do something as an accommodation. Though even with an accommodation, you might still be able to get a Gecko IN.YJ-2 pack for cheaper.