ratchett

Dang, that's rough to hear about your Jetsetter - totally not common. I'm down here on the Space Coast and only have a temp issue in the summer when the sun is shining on the tub all day long raising the temperature beyond set temp. The wireless remote is a display panel - it simply displays data from the control board. When you set temperature, it sends the command down to the control board to maintain that temperature That's really strange. I have a 2019 and my remote does not "restart" itself. Do you have a wireless phone charging pad in your house? Try putting your remote on that wireless charging dock and see if the problem persists Nope, won't do anything to change temperature. If I were in your shoes, I would not mess with your hot tub much - this is a manufacturing issue. Let the dealer and Hotspring figure this out. Hotspring is one of the few brands known to replace an entire hot tub if it's deemed to be a lemon. Just keep calling up the dealer until they fix the issue, and if they can't, then get hotspring corporate involved. The squeaky wheel gets the grease - just keep pushing them and don't try fiddling with things yourself or you'll do more damage which could void the warranty in the process. Random question - how is your tub wired? Are you wired up for 220v configuration or 110v? If you're on 220V is your spa wired two two breakers in the subpanel or a single 50-amp breaker? I ask because people often hire electricians who claim they know what they're doing without ever reading the wiring diagram and assume Hotspring tubs can be wired like traditional hot tubs to a single breaker which could be causing issues (although usually not an overheating issue like this...)

Hot tub engineers are not dumb. They know most poured concrete slabs are not level due to drainage. As mentioned, flat is important because that's what distributes the weight evenly. Pay attention to the jets in your spa - are they higher on one side of the spa than the other side? You want the side with the highest underwater jets on the LOWEST side of the pad. That way you can fill your spa adequately without the need to over-fill.

Not quite sure what you mean "breaks down electrically" - do you mean it trips the breaker? Did this start happening after a change to the tub such as wiring changes? Try removing the three filters, does the problem persist?

Ah yeah my mistake - my Jetsetter jets are different in shape/design. Didn't realize yours was a metal plate with tabs. There are places that will re-chrome parts for automobile shops. The chemicals used in the process are quite toxic so I would advise against any sort of DIY electroplating kits, HOWEVER I would search around for any Automotive Electroplating shops and ask them if they do chrome. For the price however, you're still dealing with a part which has already begun oxidizing. You can chemically treat to inhibit the oxidization, but I don't know if it fully ceases the chemical reaction (maybe someone knows better than myself). Might be spending a lot of money on something which might not last very long. I still you're better off grabbing some spare old stock parts from ebay or buying direct from your local Hotspring dealer. Know that all Hotspring Highlife spas from the same year use the same jets (envoy, grandee, aria, vanguard, etc) - sometimes I see people in my local classifieds selling spare jets (heck my dealer even tossed in a spare jet for me to try since my Jetsetter didn't come with one of them, and I bought an extra jet I like more so now I have two spares for my 2019 haha)

They don't sell just the "faceplate" for jets as far as I'm aware - you need to buy an entire replacement jet off ebay or elsewhere and simply screw it into the tub. My 2019 has a slightly different design, so you might need to buy an older stock model. If you can't find online, you may need to contact a local hotspring dealer to see if they have any old stock inventory. The metal surface is essentially electroplated onto the plastic. A rust inhibitor will slow it down, but that would contaminate the water. Rust will spread on the surface, so the only thing you could do is sand down to eliminate all signs of rust and deal with the imperfections since there is essentially no easy affordable way to vapor-electroplate a plastic part again (there are industrial methods natch, but not easily available to the average consumer).

Ouch, that's rough. Long story short, back when your spa was built, Watkins/Hotsprings used a third party to make the control board and topside control panel - then around 2012 (ish?) that electronics manufacturer went bankrupt with no warning to Watkins. This royally screwed Hotspring and their customers. Watkins raced to make a new replacement control board and topside controller (so they could keep making new spas to sell). HOWEVER the two new parts are not backwards compatible with the old system. As such, if your spa has the older control board ("Orca" model I think? Or was it the "Eagle" model? I forget right now) it is not compatible with a new replacement topside controller. By this point, all "old stock" inventory has been sold to people in your shoes, scouring the internet looking for any available spare parts to avoid a big repair bill. From what I can tell you have a few limited options: Order replacement topside controller..... and replacement main control board, your dealer can replace both but it's around $1500 so it's an expensive investment on an older tub. Dig around locally to find an old dead hotspring highlife spa in a spa junk yard (or find someone selling/trashing an old spa in the classifieds and offer $100 to salvage a replacement topside controller and pray that it works with your spa) Remove topside controller and find an electronics repair shop that would be willing to replace the LCD screen. If memory serves me, someone did this a while back (and posted about it on this forum) - they pulled out the old defective screen and found that it was an old HP PDA device screen based on the part numbers. A professional electronics repair shop could remove the old screen, and replace with a new one - but they would likely not warranty their work so it would be a complete gamble if it would work. This all assumes your spa has the original control board installed. If you paid $1500+ recently to replace the electronics within the past five years, ignore my $0.02 advice haha. Good luck! Hopefully you can get that spa back up and running again!

Have you tested using a different testing method? Do the numbers match? Know that test strips are not always the most reliable/accurate method of testing. pH and Alkalinity go hand in hand. Boosting one usually boosts the other. Alkalinity is a buffer to the pH. If Alkalinity is in range, pH will not drift much. If Alkalinity is way off, it'll pull pH out of wack faster. But this is a spa hardware section, this topic probably belongs over in water chemistry section 😉

Are you referring to the logo lights? I think It's possible that a wire was disconnected when the access panel was removed and never re-connected I know this is an issue on newer hotspring hot tubs where a novice user will remove the front access panel and accidentally rip off the wires connecting the logo display lights to the control board. Or sometimes people remember to disconnect, but never re-connect the wires when reinstalling the access panel. That's where I'd start looking before assuming you need a replacement board - especially these days when you'll have trouble finding a replacement control board for that old spa

Dunno, I wouldn't mess with that drain - especially if you only need to drain it once to get rid of the tub. Put a sump pump in there. Or use a long hose to make a siphon using gravity to pump it out. This video is for pools, but same concept can be used for a hot tub: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B3QhnDQjI08

Try removing the filters, does the problem persist? Can you get a video of the cycling? This doesn't sound common for Hotspring, I haven't heard of this one before in the forums lol.

Thanks! I really designed this for my own personal needs to speed up the cleaning process. The TriX filter in that photo is three years old, but still looks in great condition because I use my filter spinner monthly. My hope is to eventually wholesale these because it'd be an easy up-sell for pretty much any hottub dealer or spa tech. But for now I'm still gathering data on what sizes work best for what filters.

Check the foam behind the motomassager units, I bet it is saturated. Long story short, there is a drain line nipple at the bottom of each motomassager unit. The older Hotspring highlife spas are known to develop a leak on that cracked nipple for those drain lines. I believe there is a hotspring replacement nipple if you can get access to the back of the motomassager unit and remove the old broken nipple. Not guaranteed to be there, but that is the *most* common point of failure and source of leaks in these hotspring highlife spas.

Howdy all! As everyone knows, cleaning your filters is essential for maintaining a healthy spa, but I've always been dissatisfied with traditional option using a hose to spray down the filter which seems to push dirt deeper into the filter pleats! After countless hours of research and prototyping various designs, I had an "ah-hah" moment: using centrifugal force with a power drill to flush clean the filters in a bucket of water (or water mixed with filter cleaning solution) and then use high speed in an empty bucket to pull the water and dirt out. At first, I designed a massive contraption that pinched the filter from both sides, but it turned out to be overly complicated and expensive. Listening to feedback from industry experts, I took another year to tinker and came up with an ingenious single-sided version using a rubber plug to grip the filter. I'm proud to present my creation: the Spa Filter Spinner Cleaning Tool! 🌀 Not only is it effective and constructed with American-made parts, but it's also easy to use and saves you time and money by extending the life of your filters. Plus, it's completely safe and requires no harsh chemicals (although you can turbocharge the cleaning process by pre-soaking filters in a filter cleaning solution before flushing them clean in a fresh bucket of water). Now, here's where I need your help! Since I have very few friends with spas nearby, I'm reaching out to find beta testers to collect valuable data. If you're interested in seeing the remarkable difference it can make in your spa maintenance routine and want to be one of the first to try the Spa Filter Spinner Cleaning Tool, it's available now on eBay for beta-testers - https://www.ebay.com/itm/175572212950 Now available: Size lookup guide Your feedback and support mean the world to me. Let's work together to revolutionize hot tub filter cleaning!

Awesome to hear. A big % of the price paid for a new Hotspring Highlife spa is that dealer's warranty. Don't be afraid to call and ask if anything is covered under warranty for the first five years - it just might be.

When you press and hold on the top right corner of the display panel for 10+ seconds (where the battery icon would be located) does the control panel reboot at all and display anything? Do you have a wireless QI phone charging pad? Your envoy wireless remote should charge from that pad and eventually turn on (then hunt for the RF from the dock to sync). If it doesn't, your device could be toast, or the battery could be done but I am still having my doubts. Whenever I purge and drain/refill my tub, I sometimes have that issue with my 2019 Jetsetter remote where it will drain the battery completely and need a little while to charge and turn on if it's been off for a while. I don't think these batteries hold a charge for very long - it is essentially a mini PDA tablet running off a rechargeable battery. If you cannot get it turned back on, call your dealer. It *might* be covered under warranty (even though the battery is technically only covered for one year, the remote itself has a longer warranty).