waterbear

cal hypo will add 7 ppm for every 10 ppm of chlorine added. If you initial calcium hardness is not too high it's fine to use until our CH climbs to around 400 ppm, then switch to bleach until your next drain and fill (which should be done every 3 to 4 months). It is an unstabilized chlorine source like bleach so it will not add or raise cyanuric acid like dichlor. . Be aware that it is slow dissolving so yo want to predissolve it in a bucket of water first before adding to the tub. It is net netural on use so should have minimal impact on pH like bleach (alkaline on addition, acidic reaction on sanitizing) . If you find that your pH is rising then lower your TA. For most people, keeping TA between 50 go 70 ppm is the sweet spot for pH stability.

Some people recommend this but I would not. There are many water borne illnesses that include various enteric illnesses and such pulmonary illnesses as Legionnaires' disease and Mycobacterium avium pneumonia (hut tub lung), not to mentions pseudomonas skin infections (hot tub itch). The ONLY way to prevent them is to use an approved fast acting residual sanitizer which, for a wooden tub, bromine is probably your best choice with chlorine a second. However, if this is a private hot tub you can do whatever you want. Just don't let it get you sick or kill you since it is a possibility with undersanitized water.

Instead of guesses supply us with some more information and we can most likely answer exactly what is going on. For starters what is your sanitizer (chlorine, bromine, N2/MPS, biguinide/peroxide, or something else)? How about posting a full set of test results and how they were obtained (dealer testing, strips, drop based test kit, meter, etc.) Also, is the tub covered or uncovered most of the time? Pollen count in your area ( based on your IP address ) is extremely high right now. (BTW, I'm originally from Millburn) Finally, is the "sludge" slimy, particulate, or gelatinous? Without more information we really can't tell much about the condition of your water.

Pump bearings and seals wear out and are normal replacement parts. Pumps are either full rated or uprated. Up rating is a marketing ploy using a sneakly little number called the service factor to make it seem your pump is more powerful than it is. (HP rating x service factor = brake HP) Since you didn't give us the model number of your Hayward pump I don't know which yours is. However an uprated 1.5 HP pump will have the same brake HP as a 1 HP full rated model (Full rated pumps use a service factor of 1..and a full rated 1.5 HP pump is the same as a 2 HP uprated model. As to whether you need more HP for your solar heating, is it working properly now or have you had an appreciable pressure drop when you installed it? You might want to look into a variable speed pump and increase your brake HP a bit so you have some reserve in case you need it when the solar is on and run at a lower speed if you are bypassing it. This will save you quite a bit on electrical power in the long run and you will also get better filtration running at a lower speed.

I believe so but don't hold me to that.

Both of those are Jandy Aqualink part numbers. 520272 is the Pentair part number for the 10k-ohm thermistor, 20-feet cable temp sensor. Same part is used for both air and water so you need 2.

NO NO NO NO NO!!!! ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER. NOT THE OTHER WAY AROUND! If you ever had high school or college chemistry you learned this. Adding water to acid could cause it to splatter because of the heat generated. (This also applies to dry acid). Safety first! https://sciencenotes.org/add-acid-to-water-or-water-to-acid/ https://support.al.umces.edu/safely-diluting-acids-and-bases/ The referral to strong acids in these articles is not talking about the concentration but it is referring to the group of acids that completely dissociate (give up all their hydrogen) in water as opposed to weak acids that do not completely dissociate. There are 7 strong acids including sulfuric, nitric, and hydrochloric (aka Muriatic). All other acids are weak acids and include citric, acetic, oxalic, and hydrofluoric. Be aware that just because an acid is classified as weak does not mean it is not extremely caustic or dangerous.glacial acetic acid and hydorfluoric acid can cause severve burns and injuries.

Adding the chlorine is fine as long as the jets are running. I would still dilute the acid,whether dry or muriatic, before adding.

Are you designing the plumbing yourself or is a builder doing it? Flow rates are pretty much impossible to determine with the the information you supplies. However, you are considering a long run in a single pipe instead of 3 pipes and that will have an effect on the head pressure and flow rate, just as pipe length and diameter do Using one pipe instead of three will increase the resistance just as using a smaller diameter pipe would..

Phospates are a useless measurement. They are trying to sell you phosphate remover, which is not needed since phosphates are normally not the limiting factor in algae growth. As far as the other results go, how are they testing and did you get a computer printout? Pool store testing software is optimized to sell you as many products as possible. This is how they make money.

No surprise here. Pool store software is designed to see you as many chemicals at the can since this is how they make money. I worked in the retail end of the industry and tested more water than I care to think about. Some pool testing is better than others. If they are using strips they are either using a strip reader or just manually entering the readings. either way they are using strips. TDS is a bogus measurement and the fact that they don't test CYA is so they can sell you algaecide. Overstabilized water allows algae to grow unless you are running higher FC levels to compensate for the higer CYA levels.

the higher the TA the faster the pH will rise, particularly with a salt system because of the aeration created in the cell because of the generation of hydrogen bubbles so keeping the TA lower is important. Keeping the TA between 50-70 ppm will help because there will be less outgassing of CO2,which is the main cause of pH rise. Read these. It will help explain what's going on. https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/52522-some-truths-about-ph-and-ta/ https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/28846-lowering-total-alkalinity-howto/ The second one goes into the chemistry of TA and why high TA causes a faster pH rise Borate can be sued with a chlorine or bromine generator without problem and will help stabilize pH because it introduces a boric acid/borate buffer that, in conjunction with the carbonic acid/bicarbonate buffer we call TA helps "lock' the pH around 7.7 to 7.8. If you add borate do not lower the pH below 7.6 and don't lower it until it hits 8.0 or higher and keep the TA 50 to 70 ppm for best pH stability.

They buy Taylor reagents and equipment in bulk and repackage the so it's essentially a Taylor kit. If you look at the R-0003 reagent it is the Taylor reagent bottle! Like I said Taylor is the only company offering FSD-DPD testing. I don't count a repackaged Taylor kit as a separate manufacturer. To answer your question, yes this is the FAS-DPD titiration test with a color change from pink to colorless It is not" in one drop" as you stated. You count the drops and each one represents either .2 ppm when you use a 25 ml sample or .5 ppm when you use a 10 ml sample. IMHO, .5 ppm is more then enough precision for a pool or chlorine spa. If you are testing bromine then the 25 ml sample is better because if you are using this test yo would multiply .FC reading by 2.25 to get total bromine and if you are using the bromine specific test (only available from Taylor) then it will give you a precision of .5 ppm. .

For pool the suction valve for pool should be on and spa should be off the return valve for pool should be on and spa should be offl for spa the suction valve for spa should be on and pool should be off the return for spa should be on and pool should be off If your spa is a spillover spa that spills back into the pool you would have the spa return valve on and the pool suction valve on (all other valves off). this is your current setting according to your description of the valves but the picture shows that you have both pool and spa returns open and also the waterfall and the pressure side cleaner return. The pressure side cleaner line does not have a booster pump so it was probably for a Polaris 360 cleaner, which is the only one I know of that does not require a booster pump (there might be others on the market but I am not aware of any). Having the pressure side line open is fine. it just become another return. If you do get a cleaner then close the returns so only the cleanier line is open, have the waterfall and spa returns closed, and have the suction side set to pool. Waterfall should work when you have the pool returns running. The

@GeboYellow is (orthotolidine). It is only a test for total chlorine but it does not bleach out at high sanitizer levels. It is useful to see if there is chlorine in the tub. It will also test total bromine. It is usually found in cheap test kits and uses a comparator with yellow color blocks. It can be used to determine if chlorine levels are very high since it will turn dark yellow, orange, and then brown as sanitizer levels go up to about 100 ppm. Not a first choice for testing but can be useful as a backup test and it's better than strips. Red is DPD (diethyl-p-phenyleneldiamine). It uses a comparator with red color blocks. It can test both free chlorine and total chlorine. Combined chlorine can be determined by subtracting the free chlorine reading from the total chlorine reading. It will beach out at high sanitizer levels (bleachout can start at sanitizer levels of 5 to 10 ppm depending on the maker of the test) leading you to believe that your sanitizer is low or nonexistent when, in reality, it is high (which can also give you false high readings on pH tests). It can also test total bromine. It cannot test high sanitizer levels because of bleachout without diluting your sample with distilled water, which is a cumbersome process. It can give false high readings when MPS and ozone are used since they both test as chorine/bromine. Taylor does have a reagent pack that can remove the interference from MPS. Many men are unable to differentiate between close shades of red and find the DPD test difficult to read. Women are much better at differentiating close shades of red. DPD is the most common testing method used by most testing supply sellers (Taylor, LaMotte, Hach) and is also used in some strips. FAS-DPD (Ferrous ammonium sulfate/diethyl-p-phenyleneldiamine) is the gold standard for sanitizer testing. It is not a color matching test. It is a titration (drop counting test) that has a distinct color change from red to colorless that even color blind individuals can see and a precision as good as .2 ppm (for chlorine) or .5 ppm (for bromine). It can directly determine free chlorine and combined chlorine with no math and can also determine total bromine. It does not have the same bleachout problem (if it flashes pink and then turns cloear add more DPD power until there is a stable pink color) and can test much higher sanitizer levels (at least to about 20 ppm or even higher). AFAIK, only Taylor Technologies offer FAS-DPD test kits. FAS-DPD is used in their K2006 and K-2106 kits (which are the ones I recommend) and as stand alone kits. I would recommend FAS-DPD weekly and use OTO as a quick check to make sure sanitizer is present for daily testing or if you think sanitizer levels might be very high. before checking pH since you cant test pH when sanitizer is above 10 ppm (for Taylor pH reagents, some other brands of pH test become unreliable when sanitizer is above 5 ppm and some of the cheap ones 3 ppm, making them fairly worthless. @cranbiz Nope! Most Taylor kits use either DPD or FAS-DPD, only a handful of their kits use OTO. OTO is pretty much considered obsolete these days since it can only test total chlorine.