Going on a 4th Balboa circuit board in 5 years, is this normal?

[cranbiz]

Opposite the 4 breakers marked spa is a duplex 50 A with two outboard 30A breakers marked dryer. That is probably the feed to the spa GFCI panel.

[DesertRat77]

Hi, thanks for your patience everyone. We confirmed it is the one on the left labeled "Dryer Spa Dryer" - turns the power to the spa breaker box off and also the dryer. No idea why they are tied together like that.

I tested the power going into the spa breaker box with the spa/dryer switches turned off, then on. I have 119v coming in at each of the 2 black wires under the GFCI with those switches on & nothing with them off.

[cranbiz]

17 hours ago, DesertRat77 said:

Hi, thanks for your patience everyone. We confirmed it is the one on the left labeled "Dryer Spa Dryer" - turns the power to the spa breaker box off and also the dryer. No idea why they are tied together like that.

 

It's a panel space issue. 

Those breakers are used because it normally, you need 4 full sized slots for (2) 240v circuits. The bus bar in your panel alternate the legs of your 240V feed. This way you balance the load on the panel. So that's why the center 2 breakers are tied together. In your case, the dryer is also a 240V circuit which is why the 2 end breakers are labeled as such.

It looks like the 2 outer breakers for the dryer are tied together like the 2 inside breakers are. If so, that's good. If not, I would get that fixed.

[DesertRat77]

1 hour ago, cranbiz said:

So that's why the center 2 breakers are tied together. In your case, the dryer is also a 240V circuit which is why the 2 end breakers are labeled as such.

Ok thank you - so just to make sure, this isn't a situation where running the dryer and the spa at the same time would cause issues?

Anything anyone sees on any of my setups that should cause boards to fry? Is it possible I keep getting defective boards?

[cranbiz]

2 hours ago, DesertRat77 said:

Ok thank you - so just to make sure, this isn't a situation where running the dryer and the spa at the same time would cause issues?

Anything anyone sees on any of my setups that should cause boards to fry? Is it possible I keep getting defective boards?

No and no.

The boards getting fried could be a bad heater. Relays and boards do go bad and with the problems getting electric component parts now, boards being built with less than optimal quality components are not surprising now.  Although I do expect that Balboa would try to limit what goes out that could possibly be defective.

[CanadianSpaTech]

Inspect the heater tube and ensure the element is not touching the side wall causing heat

[chrispomeroy]

Seems like the melted heater leg must have shorted somehow.  Could water be running over the tub and into the enclosure (this just happened to me 🤣). 

Is it possible the sand/dust in your area has iron in it and its collecting in the enclosure somehow?  Could it be these tiny spaces with so much equipment packed in, combined with high set temp, and high outdoor temp, is causing thermal distortion and shorting out the board?  Throwing out some more ideas.

 

[DesertRat77]

@chrispomeroy I didn't see any evidence of water or drips inside, everything was covered with an even light layer of dust. The dust in our area definitely has some iron so I suppose that could be possible. Its odd, most homes in our area are short term rentals (not ours) thus many have hot tubs but I feel like I'm the only person with these continuous isolated problems so I don't think its the environment. 

@CanadianSpaTech I'm not sure how to tell - would there be a discoloration outside or do I need to take it apart to see?

I contacted the spa store here but no word back yet.

[CanadianSpaTech]

55 minutes ago, DesertRat77 said:

need to take it apart to see?

Yes

[RDspaguy]

The damage to the board is heat. Period. The cause of the heat is the question.

From appearance, I'd say bad connection at the board. But that is so unlikely to occur repeatedly it's not really worth considering. Unless the new heater strips were removed and the old ones used, in which case it was on the guy with the screwdriver.

Next most likely is the heater terminal. Should be where it's getting disconnected for board replacement, so has the potential to be loose or damaged, but this will usually burn the heater terminal first.

Another possibility is a bad relay, but that is extremely rare on a new board. And almost always burns out the relay solder points first. If Balboa was having an issue, they'd already know and cease sales of these boards. I very seriously doubt it is a board issue.

Relay chattering or short-cycling can burn out relays, but likewise damage the relay not the terminal.

Dry-fire, boil-out, element contact with the tube, all can cause excessive heat, but rarely damage the board at that location.

Is it consistently that exact terminal on the board? Are the stand-offs (board anchors) all there and in good shape? 

If your tub is on the same breaker as your dryer, and the dryer is electric not gas, you could have an issue, but it is unlikely to cause this problem. It should just trip the breaker if both are running full-tilt at the same time.

 

[RDspaguy]

Looking back at the pics I see it is not the same terminal or even leg of the heater. Really leaning toward installation errors here. With no way to know what was done, I couldn't say for sure. But I'd be shocked at any experienced tech consistently leaving loose terminals. Were all these board replacements done by the same guy?

Bottom line is, you'll spend nearly as much replacing the board and element as buying a new pack. I'd already be done with the job in the time I've spent talking about it here. It's a very interesting philosophical question to ponder, but it's not getting it fixed. I am very sorry you have had this experience, and am certain a replacement pack will solve the issue. I would also avoid doing further business with that tech. If not directly responsible, I'd say he was negligent in continuing to sell you board after board without changing anything else, not even that corroded heater.

[DesertRat77]

Ok thank you. Yes it was the same tech both times. There's only 1 spa place within an hour of the tiny town I live in & he was their guy. I'm not even sure he's still there since it's been 1-2 years. I can call a place in a the city an hour away & pay a surcharge for them to come out here or I can DIY it. A little intimidating to DIY though so maybe I'll try to find another place. 

Edit: I see a spa pack comes with the board as well so I'll order one today. Thank you all so so much for all the help, I was really lost on this & you helped me narrow down what it could be so it hopefully never happens again. 🙂

Edited January 12, 2023 by DesertRat77

[DesertRat77]

Hi again. Last question I promise! My board is labeled model VS612 and for the life of me I can't find any spa packs that say they're compatible, they all say VS500 series etc. I can't find any reference anywhere on Balboa's site or elsewhere about the VS600 series. Mine says part number 55263-03 which I also can't find a reference to. Am I safe ordering the afore-linked "Balboa BP7 5.5kW Spa Control Kit"? Any upgrades I can/should make while I'm at it?

(I should mention the only places online where I can find references to the Balboa VS612 board are posts & reviews about it burning & melting 😂)

[CanadianSpaTech]

Should be a white sticker on top of the pack. Post photo

[DesertRat77]

[CanadianSpaTech]

Board is proprietary to beachcomber. Have not seen a VS612 before. Perhaps contact Beachcomber Factory Tech Support directly and see if this issue is happening to others. Unlikely they would admit if there was but you might get the right person and get lucky with information.

 

Here is a link for a replacement:  https://www.pool-n-spa.com/Circuit-Boards/Hot-Tub-Circuit-Boards/Balboa-55264-Circuit-Board-VS612R1-x-Alt-Replace-NoBlwr-Beachcomber

[RDspaguy]

You don't need a beachcomber board if you buy a new pack. Spadepot.com has a series of questions on their site about number of pumps, voltage, accessories, and such that will tell you which pack you need. You only need that board to use that topside. A new pack includes ALL electronics, board and topside, with the heater, in the enclosure, with new pump cords too if you need them. Even has a new light bulb. And a warranty, unlike replacement boards. You'll pull the wires, disconnect the heater unions, and remove the mounting bolts. Then reverse the process. The topside is foam taped in, just make sure you get the right replacement panel or adapter plate. If you can change spark plugs this should be no trouble.

What does your spa have in it (#pumps, blower, circ pump, mister, led lighting, stereo, etc)?

[DesertRat77]

I have now discovered the bottom corner of the Balboa board is labeled VS500Z. I believe that board has now been discontinued. I wonder if the 2 replacement boards I got were part of the discontinued lots. So it seems like I should be able to get a spa kit which would replace the VS500Z & not worry about any Beachcomber branding. But some sites say the VS500Z board has been replaced by the VS501Z so I was going to order a spa pack based on the VS501Z but other sites say the 2 parts are not compatible. I worry if I order anything else labeled VS500Z it will end up melting again.  

[DesertRat77]

1 hour ago, RDspaguy said:

You don't need a beachcomber board if you buy a new pack. Spadepot.com has a series of questions on their site about number of pumps, voltage, accessories, and such that will tell you which pack you need. You only need that board to use that topside. A new pack includes ALL electronics, board and topside, with the heater, in the enclosure, with new pump cords too if you need them. Even has a new light bulb. And a warranty, unlike replacement boards. You'll pull the wires, disconnect the heater unions, and remove the mounting bolts. Then reverse the process. The topside is foam taped in, just make sure you get the right replacement panel or adapter plate. If you can change spark plugs this should be no trouble.

What does your spa have in it (#pumps, blower, circ pump, mister, led lighting, stereo, etc)?

Oh this is very helpful. Posted my last comment before I knew about your post. My spa currently has 1 pump with 2 settings (low/hi) and color changing LED lights (can't stand, never use). I would love to upgrade to include a blower - I know "turbo mode" (assuming blower?) was an optional item on the original Beachcomber spa model I have which they did not include. I know the one with "turbo" is an entire different board/pack so its probably a can of worms I shouldn't worry about.

[DesertRat77]

Scratch that, I do not want a blower. Another thing that will break. So yeah, basic setup with a 2-speed pump & LED lights. Here's our topside - button for the nonexistent blower is on the rt.

[chrispomeroy]

I just bought this kit after frying my board recently:  https://www.spadepot.com/Balboa-BP7-Spa-Control-Kit-P3185 

 

It hasn't arrived here yet so I don't have experience with it yet.

 

Here's a video of swapping it in and replacing a completely different model.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8q96124Dujc

[DesertRat77]

Thanks @chrispomeroy  I'm going to bite the bullet and order it and add an ozonator while I'm at it. Did you order cords too or can you re-use existing cords?

[chrispomeroy]

I ordered the cord as well as I have the Gecko-style plugs as shown in the swap video above.  For a 2-speed single pump select the "14/3 cord" which is red, black, white, green.

Keep in mind an ozonator requires plumbing changes unless your system already has one.

[DesertRat77]

My system is apparently "ozone ready" (2017) but I'll go confirm the little plugged spout area coming off the water line tomorrow before I order. And I'll see what kind of cords I have first. Man every time I think I'm ready to order I find something else I need to check. I've learned so much now though, no more spa techs coming here, it's on!

[RDspaguy]

I would not recommend ozone on a non 24/7 circulation system such as this.