waterbear

The info is correct.

Glad you got it straightened out. As I said, they either reprogrammed the controller or changed settings on the heater. In your case it was the latter.

FC free chlorine CC combined chlorine or combined chloramines TC total chlorine pH Potential Hydrogen (how acidic or alkaline a solution is) TA total alkalinity (the measure of bicarbonate ions in the water) CH Calcium Hardness TH Total Hardness (calcium and magnesium--useless for balancing water but most test strips only test total hardness and not calcium hardness) CYA or CA cyanuric acid which is used to stabilize chlorine but too much will limit the disinfection ability Br bromine BCDMH Bromo-chloro-5,5-dimethylhydantoin (bromine tablets), normally used in a floater cal hypo calcium hypochlorite, an inorganic powdered chlorine source that adds 7 ppm CH for every 10 ppm of FC added and is net pH neutral on use (alkaline when added, acidic on sanitation) trichlor a slow dissolving organic chlorine source that adds 6 ppm CYA for every 10 ppm of FC added, It's extremely acidic (acidic when added, acidic on sanitation) and not normally recommended for hot tubs for this reason. It is normally used in a floater or feeder Dichlor a fast dissolving organic chlorine source that adds 9 ppm of CYA for every 10 ppm of FC added.It is slightly acidic (acidic when added, acidic on sanitation) Liquid Chlorine or Shock, plain unscented chlorine laundry bleach, sodium hypochlorite an inorganic liquid chlorine source that is net pH neutral on use (alkaline when added, acidic on sanitation). It's main side effect is causing a slight increase in salt level (sodium chloride), which has no negative effect on water chemistry.

FC free chlorine CC combined chlorine or combined chloramines TC total chlorine pH Potential Hydrogen (how acidic or alkaline a solution is) TA total alkalinity (the measure of bicarbonate ions in the water) CH Calcium Hardness TH Total Hardness (calcium and magnesium--useless for balancing water but most test strips only test total hardness and not calcium hardness) CYA or CA cyanuric acid which is used to stabilize chlorine but too much will limit the disinfection ability Br bromine BCDMH Bromo-chloro-5,5-dimethylhydantoin (bromine tablets), normally used in a floater cal hypo calcium hypochlorite, an inorganic powdered chlorine source that adds 7 ppm CH for every 10 ppm of FC added and is net pH neutral on use (alkaline when added, acidic on sanitation) trichlor a slow dissolving organic chlorine source that adds 6 ppm CYA for every 10 ppm of FC added, It's extremely acidic (acidic when added, acidic on sanitation) and not normally recommended for hot tubs for this reason. It is normally used in a floater or feeder Dichlor a fast dissolving organic chlorine source that adds 9 ppm of CYA for every 10 ppm of FC added.It is slightly acidic (acidic when added, acidic on sanitation) Liquid Chlorine or Shock, plain unscented chlorine laundry bleach, sodium hypochlorite an inorganic liquid chlorine source that is net pH neutral on use (alkaline when added, acidic on sanitation). It's main side effect is causing a slight increase in salt level (sodium chloride), which has no negative effect on water chemistry.

Sounds like they either reprogrammed your controller or changed some settings on the heater itself but without knowing what they did it's pretty hard to help you. I suggest you contact them and ask what they changed and let them know that after their "inspection" your pool equipment is not functioning correctly.

cal hypo will add 7 ppm for every 10 ppm of chlorine added. If you initial calcium hardness is not too high it's fine to use until our CH climbs to around 400 ppm, then switch to bleach until your next drain and fill (which should be done every 3 to 4 months). It is an unstabilized chlorine source like bleach so it will not add or raise cyanuric acid like dichlor. . Be aware that it is slow dissolving so yo want to predissolve it in a bucket of water first before adding to the tub. It is net netural on use so should have minimal impact on pH like bleach (alkaline on addition, acidic reaction on sanitizing) . If you find that your pH is rising then lower your TA. For most people, keeping TA between 50 go 70 ppm is the sweet spot for pH stability.

Some people recommend this but I would not. There are many water borne illnesses that include various enteric illnesses and such pulmonary illnesses as Legionnaires' disease and Mycobacterium avium pneumonia (hut tub lung), not to mentions pseudomonas skin infections (hot tub itch). The ONLY way to prevent them is to use an approved fast acting residual sanitizer which, for a wooden tub, bromine is probably your best choice with chlorine a second. However, if this is a private hot tub you can do whatever you want. Just don't let it get you sick or kill you since it is a possibility with undersanitized water.

Instead of guesses supply us with some more information and we can most likely answer exactly what is going on. For starters what is your sanitizer (chlorine, bromine, N2/MPS, biguinide/peroxide, or something else)? How about posting a full set of test results and how they were obtained (dealer testing, strips, drop based test kit, meter, etc.) Also, is the tub covered or uncovered most of the time? Pollen count in your area ( based on your IP address ) is extremely high right now. (BTW, I'm originally from Millburn) Finally, is the "sludge" slimy, particulate, or gelatinous? Without more information we really can't tell much about the condition of your water.

Pump bearings and seals wear out and are normal replacement parts. Pumps are either full rated or uprated. Up rating is a marketing ploy using a sneakly little number called the service factor to make it seem your pump is more powerful than it is. (HP rating x service factor = brake HP) Since you didn't give us the model number of your Hayward pump I don't know which yours is. However an uprated 1.5 HP pump will have the same brake HP as a 1 HP full rated model (Full rated pumps use a service factor of 1..and a full rated 1.5 HP pump is the same as a 2 HP uprated model. As to whether you need more HP for your solar heating, is it working properly now or have you had an appreciable pressure drop when you installed it? You might want to look into a variable speed pump and increase your brake HP a bit so you have some reserve in case you need it when the solar is on and run at a lower speed if you are bypassing it. This will save you quite a bit on electrical power in the long run and you will also get better filtration running at a lower speed.

I believe so but don't hold me to that.

Both of those are Jandy Aqualink part numbers. 520272 is the Pentair part number for the 10k-ohm thermistor, 20-feet cable temp sensor. Same part is used for both air and water so you need 2.

NO NO NO NO NO!!!! ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER. NOT THE OTHER WAY AROUND! If you ever had high school or college chemistry you learned this. Adding water to acid could cause it to splatter because of the heat generated. (This also applies to dry acid). Safety first! https://sciencenotes.org/add-acid-to-water-or-water-to-acid/ https://support.al.umces.edu/safely-diluting-acids-and-bases/ The referral to strong acids in these articles is not talking about the concentration but it is referring to the group of acids that completely dissociate (give up all their hydrogen) in water as opposed to weak acids that do not completely dissociate. There are 7 strong acids including sulfuric, nitric, and hydrochloric (aka Muriatic). All other acids are weak acids and include citric, acetic, oxalic, and hydrofluoric. Be aware that just because an acid is classified as weak does not mean it is not extremely caustic or dangerous.glacial acetic acid and hydorfluoric acid can cause severve burns and injuries.

Adding the chlorine is fine as long as the jets are running. I would still dilute the acid,whether dry or muriatic, before adding.

Are you designing the plumbing yourself or is a builder doing it? Flow rates are pretty much impossible to determine with the the information you supplies. However, you are considering a long run in a single pipe instead of 3 pipes and that will have an effect on the head pressure and flow rate, just as pipe length and diameter do Using one pipe instead of three will increase the resistance just as using a smaller diameter pipe would..

Phospates are a useless measurement. They are trying to sell you phosphate remover, which is not needed since phosphates are normally not the limiting factor in algae growth. As far as the other results go, how are they testing and did you get a computer printout? Pool store testing software is optimized to sell you as many products as possible. This is how they make money.