mermel1967 Posted October 11, 2022 Report Share Posted October 11, 2022 Sunrise Journey 770. in.xe spa pack. in the spring i was having FLO issues which i have since resolved. Jets all work fine..key pad is responsive but it's always calling for heat and the heater being 5000 watts means it uses a lot of energy. It won't go past 104 (which is good) but i'm wondering if key pad is sending bad info to the board. This particular pack has no high limit switch and as far as i know no serviceable thermostat. Can anyone confirm? I don't want to spend hundreds on a keypad and that not be the answer. I've also done the checks with Ohms and voltage and they both report correctly. Thanks for any insight. P.S. if temp is at 100 and i drop it to 98...it will turn off trying for heat. But when the water hits 98 it will turn on and stay on. This is where the heater turns on and will not shut off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranbiz Posted October 12, 2022 Report Share Posted October 12, 2022 Calling @CanadianSpaTech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted October 12, 2022 Report Share Posted October 12, 2022 23 hours ago, mermel1967 said: It won't go past 104 (which is good) but i'm wondering if key pad is sending bad info to the board. This particular pack has no high limit switch and as far as i know no serviceable thermostat. Can anyone confirm? No serviceable sensors is correct. An unusual situation I have not come across before. I suggest a call to Gecko Tech Support. They are very helpful. 1 800 784 3256. Please let us know results to help the next guy. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cusser Posted October 12, 2022 Report Share Posted October 12, 2022 I don't understand since the heater shuts off at 104F why it would or could continue heating??? Wouldn't the temperature increase over 104F a lot in that instance????? On my 1988 CalSpa when I set to "temperature" control, it heats to my desired temperature and then shuts off pump and heater until the temperature near the sender drops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mermel1967 Posted October 12, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2022 Further to my post. It drops to 101 - 102 under normal conditions (cover off etc.) but it seems like it struggles to get to 104. I think this is why it continues to heat. It only got to 104 degrees once since i filled it last weekend and started it up for the season. It has not been cold here yet for the system not to get to 104 quickly and then lose temp quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted October 12, 2022 Report Share Posted October 12, 2022 Do you get white flakes on the seats or floor of the spa? I might remove the heater tube and inspect the element for calcium build up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mermel1967 Posted October 12, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2022 Yes actually i have seen some build up. Especially when i did a flush of the tub with hot tub cleaner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted October 12, 2022 Report Share Posted October 12, 2022 Scale buildup can prevent efficient heat transfer, causing your element to have to use a lot more energy to heat the water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mermel1967 Posted October 13, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2022 Thank you CdnSpaTech... I will remove and have a look. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cusser Posted October 13, 2022 Report Share Posted October 13, 2022 You can soak the heater element in dilute vinegar to remove deposits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mermel1967 Posted October 13, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2022 @Cusser yes i think at this point i would replace the whole heater as it has the switches connected to it and it's older now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted October 13, 2022 Report Share Posted October 13, 2022 On 10/11/2022 at 9:44 AM, mermel1967 said: I've also done the checks with Ohms and voltage and they both report correctly. With this statement you eliminate 75% of the troubleshooting we would have you do. Given the frequency with which homeowners incorrectly test their electrical on this forum, I have to ask how sure you are in these results. For example, you can have a burned out relay and still read 120v to ground at a 240v component. It won't work, but you'll read voltage anyway. Your description, this sentence aside, sounds like a bad heater relay. I'd suggest you retest and post results. Always test voltage from terminal to terminal on a heater, never terminal to ground. Post results. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mermel1967 Posted October 14, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2022 23 hours ago, RDspaguy said: With this statement you eliminate 75% of the troubleshooting we would have you do. Given the frequency with which homeowners incorrectly test their electrical on this forum, I have to ask how sure you are in these results. For example, you can have a burned out relay and still read 120v to ground at a 240v component. It won't work, but you'll read voltage anyway. Your description, this sentence aside, sounds like a bad heater relay. I'd suggest you retest and post results. Always test voltage from terminal to terminal on a heater, never terminal to ground. Post results. Thank you RD..i'm no expert but i suspected bad relay from what i read and what the tub has done. My father-in-law is an electrician and he tested for me afterwards and both voltage and ohms were what was suggested in documentation i have researched. So for arguments sake...let's suggest that is in fact a bad relay; this requires a new control pack (which i would go with over a new board) correct? Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranbiz Posted October 14, 2022 Report Share Posted October 14, 2022 No, a bad relay doesn't automatically mean a new control pack. The relays are readily available and not expensive. They can be replaced for far less than a new control pack by anyone with soldering skills. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted October 14, 2022 Report Share Posted October 14, 2022 5 hours ago, mermel1967 said: both voltage and ohms were what was suggested in documentation i have researched. So do you get 240V at the 2 hot leads going to the heater? Confirm Test L1 and L2 together= 240V See photo page 10. RE: in.xe: https://www.tubs.parts/includes/languages/english/docs/tubs-troubleshooting-guide-Gecko-in.y-in.xe.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mermel1967 Posted October 17, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2022 So ohms were 14.9 and voltage was 238-240...removed heater and the element looks good. No signs of deposits..almost looks new. When I powered it up to text voltage there was a light on inside on the heater so I assume it's calling for heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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