alwaysproblems Posted June 24, 2009 Report Posted June 24, 2009 Since we opened our pool this year we have had problems. Originally the Flow would lite up but them switch to no flow. Now, No Flow seems to stay all 99% of the time. The Flow will occasionally light up but them switch back to No Flow. Now, the cell reversing light stays on for long periods of time. There is no chlorine produced when it says no flow. We have cleaned the sensors with green scrub pad from kitchen. We have cleaned the Cell with Cell cleaner. We have used Filterbrite and backwashed etc. We have checked our sand in our filter and it seems pretty clean. We don't know our next step. Our pool place tells us to buy a new cell but we don't even know if that is where the problem is. The pool is 5 years old. (and we have had 3 different liners - that's another story) I have read some of pool clowns comments for others and he seems to have a good grasp of things. Help. We are thinking of going to a Chlorine pool. Quote
Pool Clown Posted June 24, 2009 Report Posted June 24, 2009 You more than likely need a new flow/salinity sensor. check the salinity (at your pool store) to make sure there is enough salt in the pool when you get it running again. Quote
alwaysproblems Posted June 24, 2009 Author Report Posted June 24, 2009 You more than likely need a new flow/salinity sensor. check the salinity (at your pool store) to make sure there is enough salt in the pool when you get it running again. What are the chances that it is the circuit board and not the flow/salinity sensor. Quote
Pool Clown Posted June 25, 2009 Report Posted June 25, 2009 I replace more sensors with these symptoms than back boards. The sensor tests for three things 1. Water temp 2. Salinity 3. Water flow There is another test but may not positively identify the sensor as the problem. Test the temp of the pool then compare it to the read out from the a/p. Also take a water sample to a pool place and have them test it for salinity (not using test strips) and compare that to the a/p readings. Finally, camp out in front of the unit and wait to see if it gives you a three number fault code. Quote
sc5.4 Posted June 25, 2009 Report Posted June 25, 2009 If you call Jandy, dont expect much help. They will be real quick to give you pool repair tech phone #'s and that's about it. Also, they discontinued the cell that they had out a few years ago. They came out with a new design that retrofits. Quote
alwaysproblems Posted June 25, 2009 Author Report Posted June 25, 2009 I replace more sensors with these symptoms than back boards. The sensor tests for three things 1. Water temp 2. Salinity 3. Water flow There is another test but may not positively identify the sensor as the problem. Test the temp of the pool then compare it to the read out from the a/p. Also take a water sample to a pool place and have them test it for salinity (not using test strips) and compare that to the a/p readings. Finally, camp out in front of the unit and wait to see if it gives you a three number fault code. Salinity is in check with the pool place. The temperature is 84 on our display and on our heater it shows 83 so it is not far off. There has never been any three number fault code. Our pool store is telling us to buy a new cell which is around $1200 (CDN). But now we are not sure if it's the sensor or the cell. Quote
Pool Clown Posted June 25, 2009 Report Posted June 25, 2009 Replace the sensor. A bad cell would not give you a "no flow" light. Quote
sc5.4 Posted June 27, 2009 Report Posted June 27, 2009 That's typical for a store to tell you to go with the "A" plan. Sure that will fix it! I agree, a sensor is worth trying. My 1400 cell voltage is acting up at times, but I'm just keeping an eye on it and making sure what the real problem is before sinking money into a cell that doesn't need replacing. Good luck! Quote
alwaysproblems Posted June 27, 2009 Author Report Posted June 27, 2009 Pool Clown, you were right. Cell sensor was replaced and now I have too much Chlorine in the pool. That I can fix and handle. Thanks Quote
sc5.4 Posted June 27, 2009 Report Posted June 27, 2009 Where did you get the flow sensor? Just in case mine goes out. Quote
alwaysproblems Posted June 28, 2009 Author Report Posted June 28, 2009 local pool store. $199 cdn, everyone else wanted $269 cdn. Good luck with yours, just tell Pool Clown exactly what's wrong, he'll help you. Quote
sc5.4 Posted June 28, 2009 Report Posted June 28, 2009 local pool store. $199 cdn, everyone else wanted $269 cdn. Good luck with yours, just tell Pool Clown exactly what's wrong, he'll help you. Clown has given me alot of tips how to test voltage on my 1400 with service code 120 problem. This site is great to get helpfull advise and ideas. Quote
sly Posted July 1, 2009 Report Posted July 1, 2009 Hi folks, FYI and reading enjoyment. Here's the AquaPure Troubleshooting guide. It contains more error code details than the manual, shows some board tests, advanced features and step by step troubleshooting flowchart. AquaPure troubleshooting manual I just bought a replacement 3 PORT unit for my old 2 port one, re-plumbed and installed. Now getting the magic 172/185 code "flow salinity sensor temperature probe error codes". I'm on my 15th minute of hold for Jandy tech support (once again) to see if there are further tests I can run or if the flow sensor is defective as suggested in the manual. Arrrgh Quote
sc5.4 Posted July 2, 2009 Report Posted July 2, 2009 Thank you Sly! I could of used that manual a few weeks ago while trying to determine what voltages should be at the cell. Mine is throwing a 120 code sometimes, and I'm checking DC cord and other connections. That service manual will definately help if other problems surface. Good luck with sensor codes. Quote
Pool Clown Posted July 2, 2009 Report Posted July 2, 2009 Unfortunately, Jandy has a problem on their hands with these flow sensors. But like with most large companies they won't offer that fact. I have replaced more flow sensors than Carter has little pills. You can pretty much trust those 172/185 codes. Sly, you should return that sensor to where you got it from before it ages anymore to get warranty on it. I would normally tell you to call Jandy, but thats not time efficient these days... Quote
Add Everything Plus 1 Posted July 2, 2009 Report Posted July 2, 2009 Unfortunately, Jandy has a problem on their hands with these flow sensors. But like with most large companies they won't offer that fact. I have replaced more flow sensors than Carter has little pills. You can pretty much trust those 172/185 codes. Sly, you should return that sensor to where you got it from before it ages anymore to get warranty on it. I would normally tell you to call Jandy, but thats not time efficient these days... Pool Clown I have had a Flow light on constantly now for a month and though I cleaned cell it looked fine and flow sensor as well nothing changed. I replaced the cell with a new PLC1400 cell and flow sensor only with the same result. I get no error codes--just the flow light on which is preventing chlorine production. Would it be the backboard in this case? Quote
Pool Clown Posted July 3, 2009 Report Posted July 3, 2009 Some Aqua Pure's have a light labeled Flow and some others have an LCD that says no flow. Just to be clear, Is the unit saying you Have flow or no flow? Quote
Add Everything Plus 1 Posted July 3, 2009 Report Posted July 3, 2009 Some Aqua Pure's have a light labeled Flow and some others have an LCD that says no flow. Just to be clear, Is the unit saying you Have flow or no flow? Well I apparently misread the manual on the flow light. I do have a flow light indicator and it is on. But sometime late last season the One Touch control inside quit recognizing that the Aquapure was installed. I could not get it to recognize it on the inside panel. I checked all the connections and the ribbon cable from the back panel to the control center was intact and connected correctly. This is a system that has been in place about 3 plus years. The Box shows all signs of operating normally but is not producing chlorine. It just shows the production level which I can change on the box but no longer would say JA to show it was being controlled by the Jandy One touch. It doesn't beep or give me any codes. Quote
Pool Clown Posted July 3, 2009 Report Posted July 3, 2009 Disconnect power to the Jandy controller and then disconnect the four wire com cable from the Aqua pure and turn controller back on, wait till it boots, then turn it off. Connect the com wire agian and turn the controller back on and see if it sees it then. If not, clear the memory. Quote
Add Everything Plus 1 Posted July 3, 2009 Report Posted July 3, 2009 Disconnect power to the Jandy controller and then disconnect the four wire com cable from the Aqua pure and turn controller back on, wait till it boots, then turn it off. Connect the com wire agian and turn the controller back on and see if it sees it then. If not, clear the memory. Thanks Pool Clown. While I am not back to indoor control. I while I was removing the connector from the board of the Aquapure I found that the green wire had broken but appeared connected until removing it. When I moved it some more the red Wire Broke so I rewired all four back and went thru the cycle of rebooting the controller without and then with the cable connected. I still don't have indoor control but it appears to be working now at least manually at the unit because I can now put it in Boost mode so it probably is working. I erased the memory as well but no different. But that I can live with while I further trouble shoot it. Thanks for the help! Have a great holiday! Quote
Pool Clown Posted July 3, 2009 Report Posted July 3, 2009 while I was removing the connector from the board of the Aquapure I found that the green wire had broken but appeared connected until removing it. When I moved it some more the red Wire Broke so I rewired all four back. You might get lucky if you look at the other end of the com cable to see if you have the same thing going on with the wire breaking. This is a good example of cutting too far into the wire when stripping. You knick the copper wire and weaken it. Seems ok when wiring up but over time may break from movement. Quote
mah48092 Posted July 3, 2009 Report Posted July 3, 2009 I am so thankful I found this forum and in particular this thread. I have been getting similar error codes (120 and now 121) on my unit for the past couple of weeks. Following the technician repair manual that was posted (thank you very much), I believe I have a bad cell. I have DC voltages of 33.6 volts from the control board to the cell and my reading across test point 4 and 5 is only 27 mVolts. I just hate spending $500 on a new cell if that really isn't the problem. What does everyone think? Thanks for any help and advice. Quote
Add Everything Plus 1 Posted July 4, 2009 Report Posted July 4, 2009 while I was removing the connector from the board of the Aquapure I found that the green wire had broken but appeared connected until removing it. When I moved it some more the red Wire Broke so I rewired all four back. You might get lucky if you look at the other end of the com cable to see if you have the same thing going on with the wire breaking. This is a good example of cutting too far into the wire when stripping. You knick the copper wire and weaken it. Seems ok when wiring up but over time may break from movement. Yes you are exactly right. I do low voltage for work...Voice-Data and deal with almost this exact size wire and that is something to be careful of. Unfortunately I did look at the other end when I found this and it is still pretty solid. But you helped me by leading me thru the steps and found this on the way. Many thanks. I replaced a Cell that didn't need it as it looked really clean before I tried cleaning it but if was almost 4 years old anyway and probably good that I went ahead and replumbed the new cell. Now I know it "shouldn't" be the next thing I have to fix. Quote
bmwhd Posted July 4, 2009 Report Posted July 4, 2009 Hi all. My 2 year old Aquapure 1400 is now showing service light only and codes 172/186. I did the front board checks using the test buttons and found each reading off by 1 - i.e. the first test is supposed to show 2.8 on the LCD, mine showed 2.7, the second test is supposed to show 75F, mine showed 74F and finally, the last the is supposed to show 91F, mine showed 90F. Is my front board fried or should I still try replacing the flow sensor first? Thanks! Quote
Pool Clown Posted July 5, 2009 Report Posted July 5, 2009 Is my front board fried or should I still try replacing the flow sensor first? Thanks! Get a sensor. Quote
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