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No Flow And Cell Reversing On Jandy Aquapure 1400

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These flow sensors fail alot. With the system not recognizing any flow it will not turn the cell on. Mine acted up a few times before it totally failed. Changed it and now it works good.

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Help Me Pool Clown, I have a Jandy 1400 salt system. I am getting 120 & 121 codes. I cleaned the cell with the 4-1 water-acid wash and blew it out with a water hose but still getting the code. I am getting algea and no chlorine. The amber service light is on along with alternating flow, cell reversing and cell on. The system is 4 years old and has had no problems till about 2 months ago. I am so frustrated. The pool store said I probably need to buy a whole new system. ($$$) Should I buy a new cell or could it be something else? Also, it's a two port cell, If I need a new cell, should I try to find an old 2-port or upgrade to the three?

Thanks for your anticipated help.

Timbo

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Tuff question. The problem with these systems is that, it may not show you all the codes at once. Yes, you may get multiple codes, but they all relate to one component. Then, when you repair/replace the component in question, you may begin to get a different set of code(s). You can see how the repair costs begin to snow ball.

Fortunately, or unfortunately, It gave you a trouble code for the most expensive part on the unit first. So any other repair will be, cheaper?

Since they have all but discontinued (depends on date of manufacturer) the two port style cell, You really have only one choice. The new 3 port cell does require some plumbing, so you need to be prepared for that, whether you do the plumbing, or you have it done(cost just went up!). Now, you can get the two port cell two different ways, You can get the cell with the sensor, or without it. Why would you want it without? Well, say you just had the durn thing repaired not too long ago, and, you guessed it, it was the sensor! You didn't pay >300 dollars for that thing, just so it can get cut out and discarded right? If your cell union isn't plumbed right up against the sensor tee, you can just cut close to the cell, and keep the sensor. Plumb in the tee cell, and off you go! The cells without, have a blank plate where the sensor goes, so when you need a new sensor, you can take the plate out and use the new style sensor.

Heres the bottom line(i think). You can pay about anywhere between 800 and 1000, give or take, for a replacement cell. You need to weigh the cost difference between a cell, and a new system. If the existing system has been trouble free for 4 years, maybe you could spend some money on it. But if it has needed service? Maybe new system, or even look at different manufacturer. Personally, I think these things need to run trouble free to even begin to pay for themselves. It's funny, i treat mine like $hiz (water chems), and it doesn't give me any problems. Then i have some customers that take care of theirs, and need service.

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Tuff question. The problem with these systems is that, it may not show you all the codes at once. Yes, you may get multiple codes, but they all relate to one component. Then, when you repair/replace the component in question, you may begin to get a different set of code(s). You can see how the repair costs begin to snow ball.

Fortunately, or unfortunately, It gave you a trouble code for the most expensive part on the unit first. So any other repair will be, cheaper?

Since they have all but discontinued (depends on date of manufacturer) the two port style cell, You really have only one choice. The new 3 port cell does require some plumbing, so you need to be prepared for that, whether you do the plumbing, or you have it done(cost just went up!). Now, you can get the two port cell two different ways, You can get the cell with the sensor, or without it. Why would you want it without? Well, say you just had the durn thing repaired not too long ago, and, you guessed it, it was the sensor! You didn't pay >300 dollars for that thing, just so it can get cut out and discarded right? If your cell union isn't plumbed right up against the sensor tee, you can just cut close to the cell, and keep the sensor. Plumb in the tee cell, and off you go! The cells without, have a blank plate where the sensor goes, so when you need a new sensor, you can take the plate out and use the new style sensor.

Heres the bottom line(i think). You can pay about anywhere between 800 and 1000, give or take, for a replacement cell. You need to weigh the cost difference between a cell, and a new system. If the existing system has been trouble free for 4 years, maybe you could spend some money on it. But if it has needed service? Maybe new system, or even look at different manufacturer. Personally, I think these things need to run trouble free to even begin to pay for themselves. It's funny, i treat mine like $hiz (water chems), and it doesn't give me any problems. Then i have some customers that take care of theirs, and need service.

OK on that, but, I think my next question is, if the (cell on) light is on, is it producing chlorine? Or trying to produce chlorine? Maybe just less than it should and it’s still a dirty cell, or could it be giving me a false reading. My hope is, if I keep cleaning it every day, maybe it’ll come around. Are the insides of the cell really that intricate and even a little buildup could be giving me trouble.

About to pull what little hair I have left out…

Timbo

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I hope your not chemically cleaning the cell every day, that will wear it out prematurely for sure. If the cell light is on, then it is trying to produce Cl.

Simple test: take a Cl reading in your pool. The lower the level of Cl, the better. then loosen the down stream union on the cell (while it's on) and let it trickle water out. Get your test vial, and gather some of that water, and test it. If the Cl level is higher from the cell than it is in the pool, then the cell is producing. How much? that depends on the condition of the cell. New cells will be making more than older cells, etc etc.

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I hope your not chemically cleaning the cell every day, that will wear it out prematurely for sure. If the cell light is on, then it is trying to produce Cl.

Simple test: take a Cl reading in your pool. The lower the level of Cl, the better. then loosen the down stream union on the cell (while it's on) and let it trickle water out. Get your test vial, and gather some of that water, and test it. If the Cl level is higher from the cell than it is in the pool, then the cell is producing. How much? that depends on the condition of the cell. New cells will be making more than older cells, etc etc.

Okay, thanks for the information. I'll let you know what the outcome is.

Timbo

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I hope your not chemically cleaning the cell every day, that will wear it out prematurely for sure. If the cell light is on, then it is trying to produce Cl.

Simple test: take a Cl reading in your pool. The lower the level of Cl, the better. then loosen the down stream union on the cell (while it's on) and let it trickle water out. Get your test vial, and gather some of that water, and test it. If the Cl level is higher from the cell than it is in the pool, then the cell is producing. How much? that depends on the condition of the cell. New cells will be making more than older cells, etc etc.

Okay, thanks for the information. I'll let you know what the outcome is.

Timbo

OK, here is what happened. Previously my Jandy 1400 salt system was getting 120 & 121 codes, had lots of buildup in the cell, and I was getting green looking algae on the pool walls. I am not a pool guy and had not been trained on the system even when it was installed several years ago. The pool company said to clean the cell with the 4-1 (water/acid) solution and if that didn’t work, I should buy a new system. I proceeded to submerge the cell in a bucket and let sit for 20 to 25 minutes then blow out with a hose. I could see pieces of the buildup coming out but nothing changed as far as performance. I was getting the CELL ON light and assumed it was trying to produce chlorine, just not enough to make a difference in the pool. I was almost to the point of buying a new cell and made a final attempt to clean the cell. This time I did not let the cell sit in the solution, instead, I prepared 3 ½ to 1 (water acid) and poured the solution through it, (gloves and glasses on) over and over again. This action seemed to remove more of the buildup, then blew it out with a water hose. I did this two times on consecutive days. ALAS, I have a sparkling blue pool, no algae and it’s been two weeks now. I’m still monitoring it closely but so far so good. I now know I need to clean the cell every few months to keep the buildup away.

Thanks for your help Pool Clown.

Timbo

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Pool Clown, please help or someone else who is knowledgeable in this area.

I have a Jandy 1400 Aquapure and I just replaced the cell AND the sensor. I had previously checked the board and based on previous posts and it seems to be working fine. The problem is that it continues to show "no flow". It will start the cell reversing then go to flow and stop and then stay on no flow for the longest time. I have tried to reboot it by turning off the power, removed the 4 wires on the board, booted it back up from the Jandy, then shut it off, replaced the wires again but nothing except "no flow"

Any ideas?

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I have a Jandy Aquapure 1400 that has error codes 172 / 186.

I did the self test on the front board. The first reading (Press and hold the test buttons marked salinity and R-temp. While still pressing the test buttons press the ‘Salinity’key (‘C’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 2.8 gpl*) is 3.3 gpl. The other two tests came back ok. So I thought this was a problem with the front board. However, the manual then goes on to say:

*Note: If the the salinity reading has been recalibrated this reading maybe different.

Before condemning the board check salinity setting.

So how can I check to see if the reading has been recalibrated? I dont want to buy a new front board if its the flow sensor that needs replacing. Also, if it is the sensor, can it been cleaned rather than replaced? How would you clean it?

Thanks so much. Apologies if this got posted twice.

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Pool Clown, please help or someone else who is knowledgeable in this area.

I have a Jandy 1400 Aquapure and I just replaced the cell AND the sensor. I had previously checked the board and based on previous posts and it seems to be working fine. The problem is that it continues to show "no flow". It will start the cell reversing then go to flow and stop and then stay on no flow for the longest time. I have tried to reboot it by turning off the power, removed the 4 wires on the board, booted it back up from the Jandy, then shut it off, replaced the wires again but nothing except "no flow"

Any ideas?

If you just got the sensor, try and have it warrantied.

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I have a Jandy Aquapure 1400 that has error codes 172 / 186.

I did the self test on the front board. The first reading (Press and hold the test buttons marked salinity and R-temp. While still pressing the test buttons press the ‘Salinity’key (‘C’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 2.8 gpl*) is 3.3 gpl. The other two tests came back ok. So I thought this was a problem with the front board. However, the manual then goes on to say:

*Note: If the the salinity reading has been recalibrated this reading maybe different.

Before condemning the board check salinity setting.

So how can I check to see if the reading has been recalibrated? I dont want to buy a new front board if its the flow sensor that needs replacing. Also, if it is the sensor, can it been cleaned rather than replaced? How would you clean it?

Thanks so much. Apologies if this got posted twice.

Take a sample of your water to your pool store, the one that doesn't use the test strips. Then when you know the salinity, you can compare it to the reading on your unit.

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Take a sample of your water to your pool store, the one that doesn't use the test strips. Then when you know the salinity, you can compare it to the reading on your unit.

The readings we get on the Jandy are around 3.7, whereas the pool store has been getting around 3.3. What does this mean? Strangely enough - this morning I checked on the aquapure and the service light has gone out and the cell on light is lit. I think it might be producing chlorine - but since we've been adding chlorine tabs, due to algeae growth it'll be difficult to test if the Aquapur is making a difference...

(thanks for the quick response!)

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Take a sample of your water to your pool store, the one that doesn't use the test strips. Then when you know the salinity, you can compare it to the reading on your unit.

The readings we get on the Jandy are around 3.7, whereas the pool store has been getting around 3.3. What does this mean? Strangely enough - this morning I checked on the aquapure and the service light has gone out and the cell on light is lit. I think it might be producing chlorine - but since we've been adding chlorine tabs, due to algeae growth it'll be difficult to test if the Aquapur is making a difference...

(thanks for the quick response!)

....and the service light just came back on....

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Pool Clown.

I am experiencing the same symptoms, Cell reversing light on, No flow on display. It appears that the temperature is accurate, Cl level is low. Tomorrow I am going to clean the sensor. Would the sensor be bad if the temp reading is accurate?

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Ozark, The salinity reading is important, what does the unit say it is? Does it agree with the pool store test?

Wishful, is it giving you any more 3 digit codes?

If you don't know if it has been calibrated, installing a new sensor, then comparing what the unit reads with what the salinity reading really is, will tell you if you need to recal. Also, if you are the original owner, and you haven't calibrated, then you should be OK.

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Pool Clown

Thanks for the response

No three digit error code and I am the original owner

Cleaned the unit, sensor, and terminals today and reassembled. It appeared to be working as the Flow Light and cell on light were illuminated for a few hours. Just went out to check and the Cell resting, flow, and cell reversing lights were on. Is this a common sequence after cl production?

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Pool Clown

Thanks for the response

No three digit error code and I am the original owner

Cleaned the unit, sensor, and terminals today and reassembled. It appeared to be working as the Flow Light and cell on light were illuminated for a few hours. Just went out to check and the Cell resting, flow, and cell reversing lights were on. Is this a common sequence after cl production?

Yep, as long as the output is set to anything but 100%. If it is set to 100%, you should not get a cell resting light.

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Help, Pool Clown!

In the fall of 2008 we had flooding from Hurricane Ike. I had the control head for the Auapure 1400 replaced. Then last Spring 2009 the sensor went out due to corroded terminal so I replaced. Then a couple of weeks ago I started getting error 172/186 again like last year and ordered another sensor. Yesterday I replaced it and immediately got flow, salinity reading and cell on. Then later in the day I started getting error code 121 so I figured maybe the cell needed to be cleaned. Went out to do it today and it is back to error 172/186 just like before with the light staying on cell reversing...what's up????. Can you help? - This system is driving me nuts................

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http://www.jandy-downloads.com/pdfs/H05675-RevE.pdf

You have to go to a seminar, or bribe a Jandy Rep. to get the troubleshooting manual(s).

Edit: found this when i was looking around.

http://www.pleasurepoolsno.com/wp-content/themes/pleasurepool_latest/pdf/AquaPure%20and%20PureLink%20Troubleshooting%20Manual.pdf

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Thanks Pool Clown! Very cool! I had it saved on my laptop desktop and it crapped out a couple weeks ago.

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I've read through all the post and did not see my issue which is: My system stopped producing chloring and the only thing that lights up on the panel is the Cell Reversing. I do not get any error codes. I did see the troubleshooting guide link and I will try some test this weekend but have you seend just the cell reversing light on continuesly for days and no chloring production?

Thanks

Steve

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That could be a stuck relay on the back board. It should still be producing Cl in reverse, unless it's been running like that for so long that the cell has scaled up to the point that it won't produce anymore. Are you sure its not producing? See if the cell needs to be cleaned (take it out and look though it).

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I am having the same problem as sberry22. My system hasn't been producing chlorine for a week now and as I was investigating I noticed that the cell reverse light is constantly on. Cell on light doesn't come on and flow light doesn't come on.

Also, the salt reading usually reads ~3500 ppm but somtimes spikes to 25500. Any thoughts? Thank you.

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