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Pool Clown

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Everything posted by Pool Clown

  1. depending on the vac head, the wheels/axels do wear causing the vac head to run closer to the floor than when brand new.
  2. If you can purge the air, but it comes back, you have another issue and the bubble is a symptom of that. locate the air leak, then your problem here may correct on its own. Note: the tube at the top may be working ok, its just that just as much air is entering as is bleeding off! Also, cleaning the filter will increase flow through that point, assisting in moving the air along..
  3. If you have lots of algae, enough to obscure sight of the pool floor, your system could just be removing the "green" from the water, and that explains the rapid rise in pressure. If you are backwashing and the pressure never drops when you go back into "filter", you should disassemble the filter and clean. Especially if it hasn't been done in a year. Yes, i would recommend once a year teardown. IMO, that is the only way to insure that you have removed all the old/ used DE from the tank, it also give you an opportunity to inspect your grids for damage. And then start with a fresh coat (DE). If your gauge doesn't drop to zero when you shut the pump off, you should replace it too. Note: If your pool guy is responsible for more than just the water chems, he should be doing that filter teardown as part of his service!
  4. When the heater shuts down, does the Intellitouch display reflect this? IOW does it display Heater off? Or is the heater just shutting down and display still reports that the heater is on? Where in the plumbing is your Intellitouch temperature sensor located? Note: For the Intellitouch to have "full" heater temperature control, the heater itself MUST be set to it's maximum temperature setting (104).
  5. Was the backwash valve replaced when you replaced the filter? Or are you using the same one?
  6. Now that you cycled the power, plug in the old relay and see if you have a spare relay!
  7. Most systems will have valve actuators that move the valves from pool to spa and back. So, with that regard you can choose pretty much any automation It will be important however that both your suction and return valves rotate the same distance. IOW so both actuators begin and end (their rotation) at the same time. Most systems will have both valves rotate 180 degrees to complete their "throw". But In some systems, due to space limitations on the pad, you may have a valve plumbed in that will only take 90 degrees to rotate from pool to spa. If they are both like that, its fine. But if one is 90 and the other is 180, you will be getting a slight draining or filling, of the spa during valve rotation depending on which valve has the short throw. It will probably be a negligible amount unless you are playing with the pool spa button turning it on and off frequently.
  8. Do you have a variable speed, or two speed pump on this system?
  9. Sorry, but I need to be able to blow that pic up a bit to see the plumbing better. Do the lines on the right side before they go into the ground have any labels on them?
  10. It would really depend on how the system was plumbed at the equipment. could you post some pics of the equipment plumbing? especially the return side (water back to the pool/ spa).
  11. Looks like a Jandy energy sweep filter. But its too small. It also looks like it has seen better days. DO NOT try to unscrew that transparent piece with channel locks or any other kind of pliers that squeeze the jaws together when you grip the handle(s). Use a monkey or plumbers type wrench where the jaw opening does not change while you are trying to unscrew it.
  12. Your only chance would be something that would give you some flex. Epoxys and most glues would give a ridged patch that would crack either through the patch, or at the edge of as soon as the tank flexed or expanded with pressure. You could try letting the tank dry COMPLETELY, like for a couple of days. Then pushing some high temp silicone (orange) into the crack with your thumb and let it cure while the tank is still dry. Dont make a mess, just in the crack. You still want to keep the o-ring groove clear. Even then, this attempted repair offers no guarantee. this would be a temp fix at best while you are waiting for the replacement filter or tank. Note: If you were to manage no leaks with this fix, I would not trust enough to go on holiday for a week with it like that. Good luck.
  13. Hose clamp on the outlet of the pump is where the temp sensor for the automation is. This sensor will need to be replaced.
  14. RD is right about the junction box. Where is the light? Sorry but I could not see from your pic's. If it is at the deep end, you could look around as far back as behind that retaining wall. But in reality, It could have been placed anywhere. The retaining wall could have even been an afterthought and the j-box was buried. As for the skimmer(s), you say that they both have the equalizer lines? Then you may have either a main drain line that runs back to the equipment, or has been abandoned with the skimmer due to leaking. Those skimmers use a diverter insert when a main drain line is integrated or "teed" into them that appears to be missing Tell tale plug in the skimmer (photo) may suggest the afore mentioned abandoned or leaking line. Looks like you are in the middle of a re-plumb. Two lines going into the pump could be the two skimmers, Deep end skimmer having the main drain integrated into it, or the two skimmers tied together and the main drain on the other line. the plug in the one skimmer may be for vacuuming and forgot to remove, or you plugged while you are doing the replumb to keep from taking a bath if the system is lower than the pool. As you can see, even though you supplied pics and gave a good description, there are still a lot of questions about the plumbing that may only be answered by being on site. ... Or I am totally off in which case ignore all the above.
  15. Ask the tile guy how he intends to prep the surface. You MUST get all the loose (de-lamed) plaster off. It may mean chipping the entire pool. Tiling is expensive because its so labor intensive, so this is going to be a major investment. Unless you have some experience in tiling POOLS, not just your kitchen back splash, have it done by a tile guy with references, or better yet, some pools that he has done, and not necessarily recently. You are looking to see how well his work is holding up.
  16. Marty, is that your board in the pic? or a pic you got off the internet? I would check the large resistors (purple) for burned. If you are getting a new board, checking would just be for piece of mind
  17. Did you have someone come in to do the tile cleaning? Did they have to lower the level of the pool? Like spa guy suggested, maybe they had not put them back to the correct orientation.
  18. Wow, didn't see that... `Cant see a use for that plumbing setup. Other than to be able to blow out the main drain if clogged.
  19. Suction side valved btwn two skimmers, and a main drain. The following is if you have an in-floor system. You may, you may not... Return side is split btwn pool return, floor return, and main drain. I'm willing to bet that the "main drain return" is for the in-floor system that actually controls two popup heads that oppose the main drain and shoot return water towards the main drain as part of the in-floor cleaner. The in-floor valve would divert a portion of return water to the in-floor water valve (not shown) that distributes water to the in-floor heads (scattered on the pool floor) for cleaning. These valves need to be either set by an in-floor tech, or if you know the system, and are able to balance the flow, yourself. Note: you also have another tee with valve downstream from the pool return valve labeled "cleaner line" that looks like it could be for a pressure side cleaner or one that runs off the filter pump. Cant see if the line goes to another pump, or just goes into the ground (back to the pool). The in-floor water valve as its called, could be located anywhere between the equipment and the pool. In a planter, etc. Usually described as a black mushroom looking thing about 8 or 10 inches in diameter. Why would you have two cleaning systems? Couldn't tell you. I see lots of "different" stuff out there though.
  20. Or a clog/restriction in the overflow pipes from the spa to the pool? Do you have overflow lines to the pool? There should be a check valve in the return line back to the spa (If that is the design). Or perhaps the spa is supposed to run independent every day (for a short time) isolated from the pool to keep it clean. Did you just buy this house? A picture from the other direction may help (taken from the heater end) to show the return valve better.
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