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Pool Clown

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Everything posted by Pool Clown

  1. It would really depend on how the system was plumbed at the equipment. could you post some pics of the equipment plumbing? especially the return side (water back to the pool/ spa).
  2. Looks like a Jandy energy sweep filter. But its too small. It also looks like it has seen better days. DO NOT try to unscrew that transparent piece with channel locks or any other kind of pliers that squeeze the jaws together when you grip the handle(s). Use a monkey or plumbers type wrench where the jaw opening does not change while you are trying to unscrew it.
  3. Your only chance would be something that would give you some flex. Epoxys and most glues would give a ridged patch that would crack either through the patch, or at the edge of as soon as the tank flexed or expanded with pressure. You could try letting the tank dry COMPLETELY, like for a couple of days. Then pushing some high temp silicone (orange) into the crack with your thumb and let it cure while the tank is still dry. Dont make a mess, just in the crack. You still want to keep the o-ring groove clear. Even then, this attempted repair offers no guarantee. this would be a temp fix at best while you are waiting for the replacement filter or tank. Note: If you were to manage no leaks with this fix, I would not trust enough to go on holiday for a week with it like that. Good luck.
  4. Hose clamp on the outlet of the pump is where the temp sensor for the automation is. This sensor will need to be replaced.
  5. RD is right about the junction box. Where is the light? Sorry but I could not see from your pic's. If it is at the deep end, you could look around as far back as behind that retaining wall. But in reality, It could have been placed anywhere. The retaining wall could have even been an afterthought and the j-box was buried. As for the skimmer(s), you say that they both have the equalizer lines? Then you may have either a main drain line that runs back to the equipment, or has been abandoned with the skimmer due to leaking. Those skimmers use a diverter insert when a main drain line is integrated or "teed" into them that appears to be missing Tell tale plug in the skimmer (photo) may suggest the afore mentioned abandoned or leaking line. Looks like you are in the middle of a re-plumb. Two lines going into the pump could be the two skimmers, Deep end skimmer having the main drain integrated into it, or the two skimmers tied together and the main drain on the other line. the plug in the one skimmer may be for vacuuming and forgot to remove, or you plugged while you are doing the replumb to keep from taking a bath if the system is lower than the pool. As you can see, even though you supplied pics and gave a good description, there are still a lot of questions about the plumbing that may only be answered by being on site. ... Or I am totally off in which case ignore all the above.
  6. Ask the tile guy how he intends to prep the surface. You MUST get all the loose (de-lamed) plaster off. It may mean chipping the entire pool. Tiling is expensive because its so labor intensive, so this is going to be a major investment. Unless you have some experience in tiling POOLS, not just your kitchen back splash, have it done by a tile guy with references, or better yet, some pools that he has done, and not necessarily recently. You are looking to see how well his work is holding up.
  7. Marty, is that your board in the pic? or a pic you got off the internet? I would check the large resistors (purple) for burned. If you are getting a new board, checking would just be for piece of mind
  8. Did you have someone come in to do the tile cleaning? Did they have to lower the level of the pool? Like spa guy suggested, maybe they had not put them back to the correct orientation.
  9. Wow, didn't see that... `Cant see a use for that plumbing setup. Other than to be able to blow out the main drain if clogged.
  10. Suction side valved btwn two skimmers, and a main drain. The following is if you have an in-floor system. You may, you may not... Return side is split btwn pool return, floor return, and main drain. I'm willing to bet that the "main drain return" is for the in-floor system that actually controls two popup heads that oppose the main drain and shoot return water towards the main drain as part of the in-floor cleaner. The in-floor valve would divert a portion of return water to the in-floor water valve (not shown) that distributes water to the in-floor heads (scattered on the pool floor) for cleaning. These valves need to be either set by an in-floor tech, or if you know the system, and are able to balance the flow, yourself. Note: you also have another tee with valve downstream from the pool return valve labeled "cleaner line" that looks like it could be for a pressure side cleaner or one that runs off the filter pump. Cant see if the line goes to another pump, or just goes into the ground (back to the pool). The in-floor water valve as its called, could be located anywhere between the equipment and the pool. In a planter, etc. Usually described as a black mushroom looking thing about 8 or 10 inches in diameter. Why would you have two cleaning systems? Couldn't tell you. I see lots of "different" stuff out there though.
  11. Or a clog/restriction in the overflow pipes from the spa to the pool? Do you have overflow lines to the pool? There should be a check valve in the return line back to the spa (If that is the design). Or perhaps the spa is supposed to run independent every day (for a short time) isolated from the pool to keep it clean. Did you just buy this house? A picture from the other direction may help (taken from the heater end) to show the return valve better.
  12. Don't know the name, but the cover, not really a cover, more like a spider web over the pool. When i first saw one i thought, who is that going to save? Deck chairs? You would install it, then there was this kind of pulley system and you would pull it and the cover would tighten up and come off the water. Looked like alot of work.
  13. When you say the two wheels do not move, do they not move under power? or do they seem jammed and wont spin? Water pressure spins the paddle wheel and directly drives the single side wheel, at the same time, it drives the pulley on the other side which drives the 2 belts and in turn the two wheels. If the paddle wheel is spinning the single wheel, it must be also spinning at least the pulley on the other side If it isnt, the drive axle is worn out. These things are mostly plastic, and are in an environment that is mostly sandy or gritty. This grit wears out the plastic, and keeps Polaris in business. Rebuilding the unit is the best way to go. It is best to replace ALL the bearings, (wheel and axle) rather than go through and replace just the questionable parts. This includes the wheels too, Tires? You decide. Sometimes you can get away with just flopping them over and wearing on the other side. Actually, yours look done. Nice squared off edges on the new tires do make a difference. Rebuilding will cost around 300.00 May seem like a lot and others may try to talk you into a 280. If you compare 300 to a new unit, you'll see its a no brainer.
  14. Is this a DE filter? or a cartage? You could have one or the other with that filter tank (In your pics). If you have a DE, how much earth are you introducing after cleaning? If carts, how old are they? Does the pump run at a lower RPM once you are done in the spa for the day? 30 psi on the filter is excessive, and can lead to prematurely ageing of the cartages or the elements (in a DE type). Is the solar turned off when you are using the jets. Solar should also be off when you start the filter back up after you have cleaned it (couple of minutes). Do you clean the chlorine generator? That will create a restriction equaling in lower jet force (velocity).
  15. If Alltheway comes back, tell him/her to close both of the blue handled valves and rotate the Compool valve 90 degrees clockwise (till the handle points to 9 oclock). That will give you all the flow back to the pool, and all the suction, barring a clean filter.
  16. You should be able to adjust the temp sensors though the menu. Be careful not to over calibrate them. And be sure you are getting an accurate temp reading from where the freeze sensor is. Not necessarily what your weather app says it is, or even the thermometer out on your porch. Freeze damage usually costs more than running the equipment to prevent it. Another note The freeze protection routine in the Aqua-Link (I think) will come on at 34 to 36 BUT wont turn off until it reaches 38. with no adjustment.
  17. Perhaps the mender nut got put on backwards or in the wrong place? With the hose disconnected from the barbed end(wall fitting), put the mender nut on the wall fitting with the shoulder of the nut facing away from the barb, or towards the wall of the pool. Install the hose all the way to the shoulder of the barb fitting, about 1 1/2". then just thread the mender nut onto the hose. It should tighten down and become difficult to tighten any more. If you can continue to tighten more than say an inch and a half, then the hose will no longer hold the barb and you'll have to replace the hose. If the hose is misshaped on the end, you can try cutting the misshapen portion off, 1 to 2 inches, and try again.
  18. If you can smell gas after the click, i would look at the igniter.
  19. Does your cleaner have a backup valve? That should be taking care of a sticking problem. If your unit is getting stuck from the suction of the main drain, You probably dont have a VGB drain cover installed, and should do so for safety reasons.
  20. Not sure that you have a (chemistry) problem... Ever poured a glass of water from the tap and its "milky"? But if you let it stand for a minute it clears up? You may have, for what ever reason, a bit of air in the system and when you turn on the pump that air goes through the pump and eventually gets to the tub after being churned up into a milky froth, if you will.... You state that it "makes the water milky for a short time". My guess is that it is air, and it eventually clears out. Otherwise, in a spa, i dont think a true milky condition would clear out in a "short time". Now if what you think you have is an (air) leak, I would look at everything (plumbing wise) from the pump inlet threads or connection back to the tub (suction side). Also check the pump shaft seal. I have had seals pull air before. Yes, i know, the shaft seal is in a predominately positive pressure area, but it does happen! Especially if the seal is leaking just a little bit. Check the area around the seal after the pump has been off all night for wetness.
  21. You should have gotten some paperwork with the cell that explains how to change the, or how to tell the unit what cell you have. I believe you need to use either AL-0 or AL-1. Not sure though, been a long time since i worked on one of those. Sorry, i'm no help.. That looks like an old Aqua-Rite
  22. Check sensor wiring for rat chewed. Remove sensor and inspect.
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