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Pool Clown

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Pool Clown last won the day on May 15

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About Pool Clown

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    Spa Guru
  • Birthday 12/30/1961

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    Silicon Valley, CA
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  1. Check sensor wiring for rat chewed. Remove sensor and inspect.
  2. Show exactly where you connected the heater wires at the Intelliconnect.
  3. Voltage at one leg of the firemans switch is normal. Board sends 24~32 V out to the safety switches and if it comes back, Ign can proceed. If you have lost the display, may be the board. Here is an excellent repair facility for that board.
  4. Just an FYI, I believe that heater does have a two stage fan. Low fan is used for the pre and post ignition purge(s). Also, Yes you must be very vigilant even more now that the heater is getting on in age to watch the rust.
  5. mr crown- are you out there?  You have been MIA for a month.



  6. Pool Clown- Long time since you saved me hundreds of dollars.  Crazy times!  I am an ICU nurse here in San Diego and the crazy is real.  Hopefully we are on the back end of the medical part of the crisis.  The financial part will be even more extreme.

    My 2 issues- aquapure 1400 system reading 1500 ppm salt.  no way possible.  I even dumped a 40lb bag in, next day still at 1500 ppm.  I cleaned the sensor and the generator.  still reading low salt.  Any insight?

    2nd issue- while all of this is going on, my control panel led screen went blank. Now I can't see codes or anything for that matter.  I do have a inside the house aqualink control screen in the house but it doesn't read codes and things like that.  are the led screens fixable/changable?

    thanks for your time.


    1. Pool Clown

      Pool Clown

      Unfortunately, to get the LCD working again requires a front board replacement. Although that board connects to the other "main" board via a ribbon cable, you may check that first. Have the LED lights gone dark as well? 

      Having said that the fix is a replacement, i would not spend the money on that unit. Perhaps budget for an ic40, and manually chlorinate for now.  I know its probably not what you want to hear, but those units have long lost their appeal, for me anyway.  Consider how much you have put into the unit over the years.  Now a days, i dont even repair them because i cannot guarantee that they wont have another issue as soon as i leave!

    2. Hughescorp


      any insight on the first issue?  the salt reading jumps back and forth from 1500 to 0.  I even replaced the cell and sensor. same issue.


    3. Pool Clown

      Pool Clown

      First issue:

      Rule #1 When the unit says you are low on salt, get a second opinion. Usually, you are not low on salt.  

      Salt does not evaporate, and the only way to loose salt is if you loose water form the pool (Not evaporation). That can be a leak, or it can be from overflowing (rain or overfilling), or it can be from too many cannon balls. Weather you decide to fix this unit, or buy a new one, always have the water checked through a third party (pool store) first before you start adding salt. 

      Salt level that jumps from 1500 to 0 is a new one to me.  The sensor plugs into the front board so, start there?  But please, dont.  There are basically 4 components to that unit.  front board, back board, cell and flow sensor.  You have already re-purchased half that unit again, and a new front board is probably at least a couple hundred with no guarantee that will fix the issue.  I would cut my losses before spending any more on this unit.

      My best advice is, again, budget for a new, different unit. 

      I apologize if i come off a bit snarky, it is not my intention.  

  7. If your salinity is indeed 2600, you probably did not get much, if any, sea water in the pool. No need to drain. If you get a low salt fault, adjust salt accordingly.
  8. The problem may be the thermostatic by-pass. If it has ANY corrosion what so ever, it will impede the parts ability to open correctly.
  9. You're welcome. Which thread are you referring to?
  10. Do you have a pump speed assigned to the pool filter through the Easytouch menu?
  11. You seem to be the man when talking Jandy AquaPure  systems and their issues. So here's the skinny, got a No flow on my digital display and PDA with no  code thrown, read your blog and replaced  flow /salt sensor with new style. Still 'No Flow' so I replaced the back board this weekend and checked salt content.. good.  No Flow still on.... Pool is out of warranty for this stuff and the techs there just throw parts at it and obviously I can do that, haha. BTW, pool owner for almost 30 years and never have I had a system so hard to diagnose...

    I seek your wisdom, Pool Clown, because nothing seems to make sense with this.

    1. Pool Clown

      Pool Clown

      90% of the problems with the AP 1400 USED to be related to the flow sensor.  I say used to be because there are not to many out there anymore that customers want to spend the time with! 

      I see that you replaced with the new style sensor.  There were a couple of evolutions of the "new" sensor.  Did yours come with the daughter board? And did you initialize it? 

  12. Start here: https://www.rheem.com/product/specialty-series-heat-pump-pool-heater-m6450ti-e-hc/
  13. Does the skimmer have its weir? This is the door at the entrance of the skimmer that usually makes a clunking noise while you are swimming. If you don't have that door, the skimmer wont do much skimming. as far as pointing the jets, monitor the prevailing wind over the pool and adjust accordingly. which ever way you point them, they should have a bit of an upward angle as to move the surface of the water.
  14. Can you post a picture of the "controller". Most are just a valve that runs on water flow(from the pump). You should be able to either leave it in place or remove it (and replace the housing cover). Should not need to remove the housing and replumb with pipe.
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