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Pool Clown

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Pool Clown last won the day on September 10 2021

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About Pool Clown

  • Birthday 12/30/1961

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    Silicon Valley, CA
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  1. If you have lots of algae, enough to obscure sight of the pool floor, your system could just be removing the "green" from the water, and that explains the rapid rise in pressure. If you are backwashing and the pressure never drops when you go back into "filter", you should disassemble the filter and clean. Especially if it hasn't been done in a year. Yes, i would recommend once a year teardown. IMO, that is the only way to insure that you have removed all the old/ used DE from the tank, it also give you an opportunity to inspect your grids for damage. And then start with a fresh coat (DE). If your gauge doesn't drop to zero when you shut the pump off, you should replace it too. Note: If your pool guy is responsible for more than just the water chems, he should be doing that filter teardown as part of his service!
  2. When the heater shuts down, does the Intellitouch display reflect this? IOW does it display Heater off? Or is the heater just shutting down and display still reports that the heater is on? Where in the plumbing is your Intellitouch temperature sensor located? Note: For the Intellitouch to have "full" heater temperature control, the heater itself MUST be set to it's maximum temperature setting (104).
  3. Hi.  Can you give me any feedback?  Thoughts?

    I have a 10,000 gallon chlorine pool that I want to change into a salt pool. It is just my wife & I and we live in Florida. No kids and no parties with others in the pool.   I would like to use Pentair products.  I have received many quotes and been told by them to go with every different Pentair unit.  I understand that the IC number is how many gallons of water it will chlorinate. I understand that going with a larger unit, it will not have to work as hard and may prolong its life.  Ive been told that I should go with the IC30 because when I need to replace it I can go with any other cell easily.  Ive been told that the IC20 will be enough and if not I can replace with the IC40 being it uses the same power supply.  Other companies only will install the IC40.  

    The 30 looks like its an older, outdated version.  Its just called Ichlor instead of Intellichlor. But no one will tell me the real differences.  Is the IC30 the older model?  Do the Intellichlors just have more lights? Can't any cell be replaced with another cell?  Thats only whether you need a new power supply, right?  Any help, thoughts, opinions appreciated.  I just don't know how to pick without complete information that no one will give me.  

  4. Was the backwash valve replaced when you replaced the filter? Or are you using the same one?
  5. Now that you cycled the power, plug in the old relay and see if you have a spare relay!
  6. Most systems will have valve actuators that move the valves from pool to spa and back. So, with that regard you can choose pretty much any automation It will be important however that both your suction and return valves rotate the same distance. IOW so both actuators begin and end (their rotation) at the same time. Most systems will have both valves rotate 180 degrees to complete their "throw". But In some systems, due to space limitations on the pad, you may have a valve plumbed in that will only take 90 degrees to rotate from pool to spa. If they are both like that, its fine. But if one is 90 and the other is 180, you will be getting a slight draining or filling, of the spa during valve rotation depending on which valve has the short throw. It will probably be a negligible amount unless you are playing with the pool spa button turning it on and off frequently.
  7. Do you have a variable speed, or two speed pump on this system?
  8. Sorry, but I need to be able to blow that pic up a bit to see the plumbing better. Do the lines on the right side before they go into the ground have any labels on them?
  9. It would really depend on how the system was plumbed at the equipment. could you post some pics of the equipment plumbing? especially the return side (water back to the pool/ spa).
  10. Looks like a Jandy energy sweep filter. But its too small. It also looks like it has seen better days. DO NOT try to unscrew that transparent piece with channel locks or any other kind of pliers that squeeze the jaws together when you grip the handle(s). Use a monkey or plumbers type wrench where the jaw opening does not change while you are trying to unscrew it.
  11. Your only chance would be something that would give you some flex. Epoxys and most glues would give a ridged patch that would crack either through the patch, or at the edge of as soon as the tank flexed or expanded with pressure. You could try letting the tank dry COMPLETELY, like for a couple of days. Then pushing some high temp silicone (orange) into the crack with your thumb and let it cure while the tank is still dry. Dont make a mess, just in the crack. You still want to keep the o-ring groove clear. Even then, this attempted repair offers no guarantee. this would be a temp fix at best while you are waiting for the replacement filter or tank. Note: If you were to manage no leaks with this fix, I would not trust enough to go on holiday for a week with it like that. Good luck.
  12. Hose clamp on the outlet of the pump is where the temp sensor for the automation is. This sensor will need to be replaced.
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