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Pool Clown

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Pool Clown last won the day on September 10

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About Pool Clown

  • Birthday 12/30/1961

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    Silicon Valley, CA
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  1. Sorry, but I need to be able to blow that pic up a bit to see the plumbing better. Do the lines on the right side before they go into the ground have any labels on them?
  2. It would really depend on how the system was plumbed at the equipment. could you post some pics of the equipment plumbing? especially the return side (water back to the pool/ spa).
  3. Looks like a Jandy energy sweep filter. But its too small. It also looks like it has seen better days. DO NOT try to unscrew that transparent piece with channel locks or any other kind of pliers that squeeze the jaws together when you grip the handle(s). Use a monkey or plumbers type wrench where the jaw opening does not change while you are trying to unscrew it.
  4. Your only chance would be something that would give you some flex. Epoxys and most glues would give a ridged patch that would crack either through the patch, or at the edge of as soon as the tank flexed or expanded with pressure. You could try letting the tank dry COMPLETELY, like for a couple of days. Then pushing some high temp silicone (orange) into the crack with your thumb and let it cure while the tank is still dry. Dont make a mess, just in the crack. You still want to keep the o-ring groove clear. Even then, this attempted repair offers no guarantee. this would be a temp fix at best while you are waiting for the replacement filter or tank. Note: If you were to manage no leaks with this fix, I would not trust enough to go on holiday for a week with it like that. Good luck.
  5. Hose clamp on the outlet of the pump is where the temp sensor for the automation is. This sensor will need to be replaced.
  6. RD is right about the junction box. Where is the light? Sorry but I could not see from your pic's. If it is at the deep end, you could look around as far back as behind that retaining wall. But in reality, It could have been placed anywhere. The retaining wall could have even been an afterthought and the j-box was buried. As for the skimmer(s), you say that they both have the equalizer lines? Then you may have either a main drain line that runs back to the equipment, or has been abandoned with the skimmer due to leaking. Those skimmers use a diverter insert when a main drain line is integrated or "teed" into them that appears to be missing Tell tale plug in the skimmer (photo) may suggest the afore mentioned abandoned or leaking line. Looks like you are in the middle of a re-plumb. Two lines going into the pump could be the two skimmers, Deep end skimmer having the main drain integrated into it, or the two skimmers tied together and the main drain on the other line. the plug in the one skimmer may be for vacuuming and forgot to remove, or you plugged while you are doing the replumb to keep from taking a bath if the system is lower than the pool. As you can see, even though you supplied pics and gave a good description, there are still a lot of questions about the plumbing that may only be answered by being on site. ... Or I am totally off in which case ignore all the above.
  7. Ask the tile guy how he intends to prep the surface. You MUST get all the loose (de-lamed) plaster off. It may mean chipping the entire pool. Tiling is expensive because its so labor intensive, so this is going to be a major investment. Unless you have some experience in tiling POOLS, not just your kitchen back splash, have it done by a tile guy with references, or better yet, some pools that he has done, and not necessarily recently. You are looking to see how well his work is holding up.
  8. Marty, is that your board in the pic? or a pic you got off the internet? I would check the large resistors (purple) for burned. If you are getting a new board, checking would just be for piece of mind
  9. Did you have someone come in to do the tile cleaning? Did they have to lower the level of the pool? Like spa guy suggested, maybe they had not put them back to the correct orientation.
  10. Wow, didn't see that... `Cant see a use for that plumbing setup. Other than to be able to blow out the main drain if clogged.
  11. Suction side valved btwn two skimmers, and a main drain. The following is if you have an in-floor system. You may, you may not... Return side is split btwn pool return, floor return, and main drain. I'm willing to bet that the "main drain return" is for the in-floor system that actually controls two popup heads that oppose the main drain and shoot return water towards the main drain as part of the in-floor cleaner. The in-floor valve would divert a portion of return water to the in-floor water valve (not shown) that distributes water to the in-floor heads (scattered on the pool floor) for cleaning. These valves need to be either set by an in-floor tech, or if you know the system, and are able to balance the flow, yourself. Note: you also have another tee with valve downstream from the pool return valve labeled "cleaner line" that looks like it could be for a pressure side cleaner or one that runs off the filter pump. Cant see if the line goes to another pump, or just goes into the ground (back to the pool). The in-floor water valve as its called, could be located anywhere between the equipment and the pool. In a planter, etc. Usually described as a black mushroom looking thing about 8 or 10 inches in diameter. Why would you have two cleaning systems? Couldn't tell you. I see lots of "different" stuff out there though.
  12. Or a clog/restriction in the overflow pipes from the spa to the pool? Do you have overflow lines to the pool? There should be a check valve in the return line back to the spa (If that is the design). Or perhaps the spa is supposed to run independent every day (for a short time) isolated from the pool to keep it clean. Did you just buy this house? A picture from the other direction may help (taken from the heater end) to show the return valve better.
  13. Hi. I’m hoping you can help me with an issue and truly appreciate any advise.  I started up my 4yr old heater and it seemed to work fine.  The temp was a bit low but I didn’t think anything of it and let the heater run over night.  The next morning it wasn’t running.  I cleaned the filter baskets to ensure good flow and nothing. No error codes and the light is green (on spa... we don’t have one but that’s the light that’s always been on) temp says 33?  I opened up the unit and there wasn’t any rodent damage.  I flipped the cover and attempted a restart and there aren’t any leds lit up.  I was thinking of changing the thermal regulator but that shouldn’t cause the unit not to turn on at all.  The unit is connected to a jandy panel with a push button control in the house, however the unit has power.   All the local service techs are booked until late June.... kinda does me no good

    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. Phil Cap

      Phil Cap

      Max e therm. It’s currently doing weird things.  I’m thinking it might be the board.  I could only set the temp to 40  it will turn on, fire and shut off.  I have a thermistor on order

    3. Phil Cap

      Phil Cap

      New thermistor installed and is working🤞  Odd how I never got any error messages.  Thanks for your time

    4. Pool Clown

      Pool Clown

      Usually you wont.  The most you would get is an erroneous temp reading. 

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