Pool Clown

Ask the tile guy how he intends to prep the surface. You MUST get all the loose (de-lamed) plaster off. It may mean chipping the entire pool. Tiling is expensive because its so labor intensive, so this is going to be a major investment. Unless you have some experience in tiling POOLS, not just your kitchen back splash, have it done by a tile guy with references, or better yet, some pools that he has done, and not necessarily recently. You are looking to see how well his work is holding up.

Marty, is that your board in the pic? or a pic you got off the internet? I would check the large resistors (purple) for burned. If you are getting a new board, checking would just be for piece of mind

Did you have someone come in to do the tile cleaning? Did they have to lower the level of the pool? Like spa guy suggested, maybe they had not put them back to the correct orientation.

Document how you put the sand in the tank.

Wow, didn't see that... `Cant see a use for that plumbing setup. Other than to be able to blow out the main drain if clogged.

Suction side valved btwn two skimmers, and a main drain. The following is if you have an in-floor system. You may, you may not... Return side is split btwn pool return, floor return, and main drain. I'm willing to bet that the "main drain return" is for the in-floor system that actually controls two popup heads that oppose the main drain and shoot return water towards the main drain as part of the in-floor cleaner. The in-floor valve would divert a portion of return water to the in-floor water valve (not shown) that distributes water to the in-floor heads (scattered on the pool floor) for cleaning. These valves need to be either set by an in-floor tech, or if you know the system, and are able to balance the flow, yourself. Note: you also have another tee with valve downstream from the pool return valve labeled "cleaner line" that looks like it could be for a pressure side cleaner or one that runs off the filter pump. Cant see if the line goes to another pump, or just goes into the ground (back to the pool). The in-floor water valve as its called, could be located anywhere between the equipment and the pool. In a planter, etc. Usually described as a black mushroom looking thing about 8 or 10 inches in diameter. Why would you have two cleaning systems? Couldn't tell you. I see lots of "different" stuff out there though.

Or a clog/restriction in the overflow pipes from the spa to the pool? Do you have overflow lines to the pool? There should be a check valve in the return line back to the spa (If that is the design). Or perhaps the spa is supposed to run independent every day (for a short time) isolated from the pool to keep it clean. Did you just buy this house? A picture from the other direction may help (taken from the heater end) to show the return valve better.

Don't know the name, but the cover, not really a cover, more like a spider web over the pool. When i first saw one i thought, who is that going to save? Deck chairs? You would install it, then there was this kind of pulley system and you would pull it and the cover would tighten up and come off the water. Looked like alot of work.

When you say the two wheels do not move, do they not move under power? or do they seem jammed and wont spin? Water pressure spins the paddle wheel and directly drives the single side wheel, at the same time, it drives the pulley on the other side which drives the 2 belts and in turn the two wheels. If the paddle wheel is spinning the single wheel, it must be also spinning at least the pulley on the other side If it isnt, the drive axle is worn out. These things are mostly plastic, and are in an environment that is mostly sandy or gritty. This grit wears out the plastic, and keeps Polaris in business. Rebuilding the unit is the best way to go. It is best to replace ALL the bearings, (wheel and axle) rather than go through and replace just the questionable parts. This includes the wheels too, Tires? You decide. Sometimes you can get away with just flopping them over and wearing on the other side. Actually, yours look done. Nice squared off edges on the new tires do make a difference. Rebuilding will cost around 300.00 May seem like a lot and others may try to talk you into a 280. If you compare 300 to a new unit, you'll see its a no brainer.

Is this a DE filter? or a cartage? You could have one or the other with that filter tank (In your pics). If you have a DE, how much earth are you introducing after cleaning? If carts, how old are they? Does the pump run at a lower RPM once you are done in the spa for the day? 30 psi on the filter is excessive, and can lead to prematurely ageing of the cartages or the elements (in a DE type). Is the solar turned off when you are using the jets. Solar should also be off when you start the filter back up after you have cleaned it (couple of minutes). Do you clean the chlorine generator? That will create a restriction equaling in lower jet force (velocity).

If Alltheway comes back, tell him/her to close both of the blue handled valves and rotate the Compool valve 90 degrees clockwise (till the handle points to 9 oclock). That will give you all the flow back to the pool, and all the suction, barring a clean filter.

You should be able to adjust the temp sensors though the menu. Be careful not to over calibrate them. And be sure you are getting an accurate temp reading from where the freeze sensor is. Not necessarily what your weather app says it is, or even the thermometer out on your porch. Freeze damage usually costs more than running the equipment to prevent it. Another note The freeze protection routine in the Aqua-Link (I think) will come on at 34 to 36 BUT wont turn off until it reaches 38. with no adjustment.

Perhaps the mender nut got put on backwards or in the wrong place? With the hose disconnected from the barbed end(wall fitting), put the mender nut on the wall fitting with the shoulder of the nut facing away from the barb, or towards the wall of the pool. Install the hose all the way to the shoulder of the barb fitting, about 1 1/2". then just thread the mender nut onto the hose. It should tighten down and become difficult to tighten any more. If you can continue to tighten more than say an inch and a half, then the hose will no longer hold the barb and you'll have to replace the hose. If the hose is misshaped on the end, you can try cutting the misshapen portion off, 1 to 2 inches, and try again.

Are you getting this throughout the heating cycle? Or does it start once you reach a certain temp?