Pool Clown

Is this a DE filter? or a cartage? You could have one or the other with that filter tank (In your pics). If you have a DE, how much earth are you introducing after cleaning? If carts, how old are they? Does the pump run at a lower RPM once you are done in the spa for the day? 30 psi on the filter is excessive, and can lead to prematurely ageing of the cartages or the elements (in a DE type). Is the solar turned off when you are using the jets. Solar should also be off when you start the filter back up after you have cleaned it (couple of minutes). Do you clean the chlorine generator? Tha

If Alltheway comes back, tell him/her to close both of the blue handled valves and rotate the Compool valve 90 degrees clockwise (till the handle points to 9 oclock). That will give you all the flow back to the pool, and all the suction, barring a clean filter.

You should be able to adjust the temp sensors though the menu. Be careful not to over calibrate them. And be sure you are getting an accurate temp reading from where the freeze sensor is. Not necessarily what your weather app says it is, or even the thermometer out on your porch. Freeze damage usually costs more than running the equipment to prevent it. Another note The freeze protection routine in the Aqua-Link (I think) will come on at 34 to 36 BUT wont turn off until it reaches 38. with no adjustment.

Perhaps the mender nut got put on backwards or in the wrong place? With the hose disconnected from the barbed end(wall fitting), put the mender nut on the wall fitting with the shoulder of the nut facing away from the barb, or towards the wall of the pool. Install the hose all the way to the shoulder of the barb fitting, about 1 1/2". then just thread the mender nut onto the hose. It should tighten down and become difficult to tighten any more. If you can continue to tighten more than say an inch and a half, then the hose will no longer hold the barb and you'll have to replace the hose

Are you getting this throughout the heating cycle? Or does it start once you reach a certain temp?

If you can smell gas after the click, i would look at the igniter.

Does your cleaner have a backup valve? That should be taking care of a sticking problem. If your unit is getting stuck from the suction of the main drain, You probably dont have a VGB drain cover installed, and should do so for safety reasons.

Not sure that you have a (chemistry) problem... Ever poured a glass of water from the tap and its "milky"? But if you let it stand for a minute it clears up? You may have, for what ever reason, a bit of air in the system and when you turn on the pump that air goes through the pump and eventually gets to the tub after being churned up into a milky froth, if you will.... You state that it "makes the water milky for a short time". My guess is that it is air, and it eventually clears out. Otherwise, in a spa, i dont think a true milky condition would clear out in a "short time".

You should have gotten some paperwork with the cell that explains how to change the, or how to tell the unit what cell you have. I believe you need to use either AL-0 or AL-1. Not sure though, been a long time since i worked on one of those. Sorry, i'm no help.. That looks like an old Aqua-Rite

None here either...

Check sensor wiring for rat chewed. Remove sensor and inspect.

Show exactly where you connected the heater wires at the Intelliconnect.

Voltage at one leg of the firemans switch is normal. Board sends 24~32 V out to the safety switches and if it comes back, Ign can proceed. If you have lost the display, may be the board. Here is an excellent repair facility for that board.

Just an FYI, I believe that heater does have a two stage fan. Low fan is used for the pre and post ignition purge(s). Also, Yes you must be very vigilant even more now that the heater is getting on in age to watch the rust.