Jump to content

Pool Clown

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Pool Clown last won the day on May 25

Pool Clown had the most liked content!

1 Follower

About Pool Clown

  • Birthday 12/30/1961

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Silicon Valley, CA
  • Gender

Recent Profile Visitors

38,512 profile views

Pool Clown's Achievements

Spa Guru

Spa Guru (5/5)



  1. There is no "standard valve position" for water features. They are supposed to be set to what you like. Tweak the valves to make the laminars equal, but again, that's a personal preference. Same thing with the pump speed. set it to make the laminars throw as far or as short of distance as you like.
  2. Go stand over by the pump while there running "good". Wait until they start to sputter and see if you can hear the pump slow down. Actually you would hear it slow down, then they would begin to sputter. You touched on something in the middle of your post, the prime feature. If this pump is "controlled" by the PDA, I mean has control of the pump as opposed to simply turning it on and off, then you may have the prime function selected with that aux. It's been a while since I've played around with a PDA. So not sure if it has that function. Also, Check the run speed you have set for the jets and for the laminar's. Set them both to the current speed of the jets and see if that helps. If you have the PDA just turning the pump on and off, the pump is set up in Manual mode, and you should be able to set speeds at the pump. You can also toggle the prime feature on and off at the pump (through the menu). Or you could see on the display if the RPM drops, and also if you are in prime mode. Hope this helps.
  3. Sounds like perhaps a communication problem. If your pump is "talking" to the automation properly, you shouldn't be able to turn the pump on at the pump. What does the display on the pump say? Something else, Did your installer wire the pump directly from the breaker? Or does it go through the E/T relay? VS pumps must be wired directly from the breaker (full time). When you have a variable speed pump the F or "filter" relay is just for accessories to the filter like the Ozone unit or the Cl generator, or makes power available to the cleaner pump, not the (Variable speed) filter pump. Single speed pump? Yes. But not a VS. The E/T turns on and off the pump via the communication cable signal, not by applying power. If you had just the VS pump and no automation, say a time clock then simply applying power would run the pump just as you are doing manually now. Does that make sense?
  4. You may need to just get the whole unit (link you provided). I know its more than what you are looking for. Did you try to get it covered with your home owners insurance?
  5. depending on the vac head, the wheels/axels do wear causing the vac head to run closer to the floor than when brand new.
  6. If you can purge the air, but it comes back, you have another issue and the bubble is a symptom of that. locate the air leak, then your problem here may correct on its own. Note: the tube at the top may be working ok, its just that just as much air is entering as is bleeding off! Also, cleaning the filter will increase flow through that point, assisting in moving the air along..
  7. If you have lots of algae, enough to obscure sight of the pool floor, your system could just be removing the "green" from the water, and that explains the rapid rise in pressure. If you are backwashing and the pressure never drops when you go back into "filter", you should disassemble the filter and clean. Especially if it hasn't been done in a year. Yes, i would recommend once a year teardown. IMO, that is the only way to insure that you have removed all the old/ used DE from the tank, it also give you an opportunity to inspect your grids for damage. And then start with a fresh coat (DE). If your gauge doesn't drop to zero when you shut the pump off, you should replace it too. Note: If your pool guy is responsible for more than just the water chems, he should be doing that filter teardown as part of his service!
  8. When the heater shuts down, does the Intellitouch display reflect this? IOW does it display Heater off? Or is the heater just shutting down and display still reports that the heater is on? Where in the plumbing is your Intellitouch temperature sensor located? Note: For the Intellitouch to have "full" heater temperature control, the heater itself MUST be set to it's maximum temperature setting (104).
  9. Hi.  Can you give me any feedback?  Thoughts?

    I have a 10,000 gallon chlorine pool that I want to change into a salt pool. It is just my wife & I and we live in Florida. No kids and no parties with others in the pool.   I would like to use Pentair products.  I have received many quotes and been told by them to go with every different Pentair unit.  I understand that the IC number is how many gallons of water it will chlorinate. I understand that going with a larger unit, it will not have to work as hard and may prolong its life.  Ive been told that I should go with the IC30 because when I need to replace it I can go with any other cell easily.  Ive been told that the IC20 will be enough and if not I can replace with the IC40 being it uses the same power supply.  Other companies only will install the IC40.  

    The 30 looks like its an older, outdated version.  Its just called Ichlor instead of Intellichlor. But no one will tell me the real differences.  Is the IC30 the older model?  Do the Intellichlors just have more lights? Can't any cell be replaced with another cell?  Thats only whether you need a new power supply, right?  Any help, thoughts, opinions appreciated.  I just don't know how to pick without complete information that no one will give me.  

  10. Was the backwash valve replaced when you replaced the filter? Or are you using the same one?
  11. Now that you cycled the power, plug in the old relay and see if you have a spare relay!
  12. Most systems will have valve actuators that move the valves from pool to spa and back. So, with that regard you can choose pretty much any automation It will be important however that both your suction and return valves rotate the same distance. IOW so both actuators begin and end (their rotation) at the same time. Most systems will have both valves rotate 180 degrees to complete their "throw". But In some systems, due to space limitations on the pad, you may have a valve plumbed in that will only take 90 degrees to rotate from pool to spa. If they are both like that, its fine. But if one is 90 and the other is 180, you will be getting a slight draining or filling, of the spa during valve rotation depending on which valve has the short throw. It will probably be a negligible amount unless you are playing with the pool spa button turning it on and off frequently.
  13. Do you have a variable speed, or two speed pump on this system?
  • Create New...