PreservedSwine

Thanks, you're the best. That's exactly what we're going to do.

I was able to stop by, the transformer tested within range. I thought I had found the issue, it appeared the thermistor (control) was slightly loose in the harness. After re-inserting the box ends of the thermistor back into the harness connector, it all worked well. Until the next day, when it started doing the same thing.

Interesting, I had not considered the transformer. (Thermistors are fine, heater is not energizing). Looks like a second trip is in my future. Thanks for the tip, it's greatly appreciated

Anyone?

Does anyone know if this logic is located on the main PCB, or the topside? The temp sensors are fine, but the electronic t-stat is not interpreting the resistance from the senor (main temp) correctly. It reads the temp increasing as soon as the spa is powered up, until it gets to the 120's, and gives an OH code, in a matter of second. (heater is not energizing) Any help appreciated. Thank you!

Sounds like the high limit is tripping, or possible comm error. To determine which way to look- look for the "control unplugged" led on the main IQ2020, and see if it's lit. If so, it's not high limit related- try unplugging the multi-color light. If that doesn't do it, likely need either new PCB or control head. If "Control Unplugged" is not lit, then it's a tripping high limit- Check for good circ pump flow, check for dirty filter, and check the high limit thermistor

Unfortunately, that's likely the result of it not being tight enough at that spot, or an issue with the copper strap being damaged. I doubt the amp draw of the heater is too high, but put an amp clamp on it to be sure.

If the "heater on" light is not on, you're correct, the PCB is not giving the signal to energize the heater. Try a new control thermistor (temp sensor). They're usually sold in pairs, as the hgigh limit thermistor is right next to the control thermistor in the heater, they're different thread sizes, but since you're doing one you may want to go ahead and do the other. They're around 20-25 bucks each IIRC

Get rid of the Chlorine tablet Use granular chlorine (sodium dichlor) if you wish to keep using the ion cartridge, as well as a non chlorine shock (MPS). The chlorine in the tablet is a different chemical compound, with very different chemical properties than what you would like to use in a covered spa. It probably fine to use now.

It's a 2002 Hot Spring Sovereign. Hope that helps

There's an ozone restriction in place to prevent that from happening, it was the small gray piece inside the vinyl tubing- was that removed when the injector was installed?

If the mini jumper bank has an option for light configuration, ensure that it's set for 12v. If that doesn't apply, no voltageat the light harness on the main PCB, and good fuses, means a bad PCB

Look very closely inside the equipment compartment, and particularly around the light for any sign of moisture, that may end up below the pan and end up coming out of the hole that is drilled for the drain.

A single click is what you want to hear. No click would mean either a bad thermistor, or bad heater relay. If it's a 95 or 96, you need good circ pump flow to close the flow switch. Good luck!

Fist, Is the pump motor spinning, and just in need of a prime? If not... A few quick questions. When you mention it's getting 120v, is it a 120v motor? Are you measuring voltage between line and neutral on the pump, while under load? If so the motor is bad. Again. Or, it's not wired properly. If the 120v vanishes under load, it's not really getting 120v. If the flow switch is closed when it should be open, this might be normal. Try unplugging the flow switch, then turning on the spa. It will still give a flow error, but at least it will energize the pump. If you're still not getting power, time to call a pro.

Yes, we have experience with bromine generators as well. As mentioned above, if special care is taken, they are not terribly bad. But bromine has a very low PH, and constant care must be taken to keep the PH balanced. Good for you if you're the one of the few that's happy (long term) with your product, and results. Unfortunately, you're in very select company. You father is not a terribly large base on which to build an opinion. We service roughly 4,000 spas per year, and have been doing so since the 1990's. You might feel differently after explaining to 30 or 40 customers per year why they're spending over $1,000 on repairs to a that's just few years old, all due to self inflicted damage from chlorine and bromine generators. The main point of this is they are not set it and forget it items. Even so, we still perform many warranty repairs on spas equipped with bromine and chlorine generators. The failure rate on components on spas equipped with salt water chlorine/bromine generators is exponentially higher than spas maintained with traditional methods. As far as specific failures, over-sanitation is a common theme. Most units have no way to determine the amount of sanitizer in the water (only salt), and leave it up to the consumer to input an output value. Virtually all spas have a cover over them. When the spa goes unused, the sanitizer accumulates. Unlike a swimming pool, where rain and the sun break down chlorine and bromine, no such process occurs in a spa. It is not unusual to find chlorine and bromine levels over 50ppm. Also, very few owners manuals speak of the importance of CYA (chlorine stabilizer). CYA limits the effectiveness, and corrosive properties, of chlorine. The salt itself eventually damages the metal components in the spa. Anyway, many people do enjoy them, but unfortunately, there also very many who end up regretting the purchase. As long as you maintain properly, your chances of being happy with your purchase will increase exponentially. Good luck in your search

Both are awful for most customers, in my opinion. In no way, shape, or form will theyl come close to paying for themselves. What most people get is over-sanitation, and premature component failures that never end. I think the industry should rename salt water systems to pre-intslled chlorine factories. That being said, they are covenant, and when special care is taken and regular maintenance is performed, damage is kept at a minimum. But the generators lend themselves to a laissez-faire attitude that can turn very costly, very quickly.

yes, just OHM out the thermistors one at a time. If they're very close, they're okay. Set your meter on a 20k OHM scale. About the Ozone valve, I'm not talking about the Ozone check valve, I'm talking about the Ozone venturi valve. Hardness accumulates at that valve, and can block water flow. Since you don't have an Ozone generator anymore, simply remove the venturi valve. You can also just buy a new thermistor (38416) and plug it in, but don't plumb it in, leave the original plumbed in. You can meter out the original as the spa runs to see just how warm the water is getting inside the heater. Here is a chart http://www.backyardplus.com/pdf/thermistor-testing-chart.pdf THIS IS FOR TESTING ONLY DO NOT LEAVE IT IN THIS CONDITION This is only to determine if the heater actually is overheating as indicated. If this doesn't make sense to you, stop here, and call a pro.

First suspect would be an issue with the interior auxiliary control panel (The one inside the tub). It plugs into the IQ2020 control box like a telephone jack. Take the cover off the IQ2020 control box, and unplug it- see if the problem vanishes.

Is everything plugged in correctly? You didn't plug the new style control head into the I2C Interface? They're the same style connectors. The I2C has two connectors side by side. DON'T plug the control head in either of them. Look to the right edge near the bottom of the control box for the correct spot.

Your instincts are correct- the heater relay is not an issue. Unfortunately, if the flow is good from the circ pump, and the thermistors are working properly, you're in an unfortunate position, as the IQ2000 used in 1998 is no longer available. You'd be on the hook for a new IQ2020, a new control head, new themristors, and even a new light for everything to work properly. Therefore, before going to that level of expense, you want to be 100% certain in your diagnosis. Have you tried just taking out the filer dedicated to the circ pump? that's the first thing you should try. Blockages are typical in the ozone venturi valve, if hardness if present in the water. You would need to visually inspect it to look for hardness inside the valve. You can also run a flow test on the circ pump - it requires a 1 1/4" male thread fitting and tube to thread into the drain (Where the output of the circ pump pushes water), and time how long it takes to fill a 1 gallon container.- This will tell you if there's a flow issue A few more random thoughts... Since you've replaced the circ pump recently, are you certain the circ pump isn't entering a "priming cycle" at any time? The 74427 has a unique feature where, if it doesn't detect water pressure in the pump, it will turn itself off for about 20-30 seconds, then turn itself on again. This logic is only located in the circ pump, so if the heater energizes while the circ pump is in a priming cycle, it will energize, and overheat. Low water level, or a slightly clogged filter, debi in circ pump are all things to look for. Additionally, a little corrosion on the thermistor harness itself may be to blame. try unplugging the thermistors, and plugging them back in several times. Anything to avoid the expense of replacing everything is worth trying at this point.

It may sound strange, but unplug the auxillary topside control. (It looks like a phone jack) See if the heat light stays on.

Well, that's the part you HOPE is bad... Your code indicates the control thermistor is out of range. However, if the spa was made in 2011 or roughly the first half of 2012, there's also a good chance the control head (where the thermostat logic is located) is simply interpreting the signal from the thermistor incorrectly, the thermistor is fine, and you might need a new control head instead. (Which is no longer available, you would need a new control head and control box, which is considerably more expensive than a thermistor) If the thermistor doesn't do the trick, post the spa serial number, and the good folks from Hot Springs will point you in the right direction

Another possibility, assuming it's using the jet pump the heat the water and does not have a separate circ pump... Is it heating properly? If it has not reached the temperature you set, it will continue to run trying to reach that temp, and will not shut off. Bad heater, broken relay, burned wiring, etc would be much less expensive than a bad PCB. Good luck!

Put a cover on the spa. It loses heat faster than it can gain it without a cover.