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    Fort Myers, Fl

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PreservedSwine's Achievements

Spa Guru

Spa Guru (5/5)



  1. Just looking for some advice.  I saw you had responded several years ago about a 1994 HotSpot (Model Z) to another user.  I have one of these also that is still in pretty good shape.  It was running well up until a few months ago when the heater stopped.  I took everything out to my bench and have been looking at it.  I have continuity through the heater and the pump is strong.  After reading your response, I was wondering if I should check the capacitors first and then the relays?  When the pump is disconnected from control box (for bench testing so I dont run it dry), I get a clicking when i turn the temp knob but i do not get any power at the heater connections.  That is why I am thinking that the relay is not triggering.  The relays are clicking.  Appreciate if you have the time for any advice on the proper flow for troubleshooting.  Thanks!

  2. Thanks, you're the best. That's exactly what we're going to do.
  3. I was able to stop by, the transformer tested within range. I thought I had found the issue, it appeared the thermistor (control) was slightly loose in the harness. After re-inserting the box ends of the thermistor back into the harness connector, it all worked well. Until the next day, when it started doing the same thing.
  4. Interesting, I had not considered the transformer. (Thermistors are fine, heater is not energizing). Looks like a second trip is in my future. Thanks for the tip, it's greatly appreciated
  5. Does anyone know if this logic is located on the main PCB, or the topside? The temp sensors are fine, but the electronic t-stat is not interpreting the resistance from the senor (main temp) correctly. It reads the temp increasing as soon as the spa is powered up, until it gets to the 120's, and gives an OH code, in a matter of second. (heater is not energizing) Any help appreciated. Thank you!
  6. I have a similar problem - my coleman horizon 400 spa heater not turning off. I set temp to 80 but heater heats water until high temp sensor shuts down spa (usually around 110 degrees) sn1 and after a while after cooling I get the OH code and than I can restart the spa. But, the heater seems to continue to operate. I hear a hum from the heater area as if the heater is always on. I shut down the whole spa over night to cool.  When I turned on the spa again, the heater got hot to touch pretty quickly - the water temp this morn was 104 degrees at startup, the hight temp sensor triggered again.  any idea. hope you understand.

  7. Sounds like the high limit is tripping, or possible comm error. To determine which way to look- look for the "control unplugged" led on the main IQ2020, and see if it's lit. If so, it's not high limit related- try unplugging the multi-color light. If that doesn't do it, likely need either new PCB or control head. If "Control Unplugged" is not lit, then it's a tripping high limit- Check for good circ pump flow, check for dirty filter, and check the high limit thermistor
  8. Unfortunately, that's likely the result of it not being tight enough at that spot, or an issue with the copper strap being damaged. I doubt the amp draw of the heater is too high, but put an amp clamp on it to be sure.
  9. If the "heater on" light is not on, you're correct, the PCB is not giving the signal to energize the heater. Try a new control thermistor (temp sensor). They're usually sold in pairs, as the hgigh limit thermistor is right next to the control thermistor in the heater, they're different thread sizes, but since you're doing one you may want to go ahead and do the other. They're around 20-25 bucks each IIRC
  10. Get rid of the Chlorine tablet Use granular chlorine (sodium dichlor) if you wish to keep using the ion cartridge, as well as a non chlorine shock (MPS). The chlorine in the tablet is a different chemical compound, with very different chemical properties than what you would like to use in a covered spa. It probably fine to use now.
  11. It's a 2002 Hot Spring Sovereign. Hope that helps
  12. There's an ozone restriction in place to prevent that from happening, it was the small gray piece inside the vinyl tubing- was that removed when the injector was installed?
  13. If the mini jumper bank has an option for light configuration, ensure that it's set for 12v. If that doesn't apply, no voltageat the light harness on the main PCB, and good fuses, means a bad PCB
  14. Look very closely inside the equipment compartment, and particularly around the light for any sign of moisture, that may end up below the pan and end up coming out of the hole that is drilled for the drain.
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