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PreservedSwine

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About PreservedSwine

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    Spa Guru

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    Fort Myers, Fl

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  1. I have a similar problem - my coleman horizon 400 spa heater not turning off. I set temp to 80 but heater heats water until high temp sensor shuts down spa (usually around 110 degrees) sn1 and after a while after cooling I get the OH code and than I can restart the spa. But, the heater seems to continue to operate. I hear a hum from the heater area as if the heater is always on. I shut down the whole spa over night to cool.  When I turned on the spa again, the heater got hot to touch pretty quickly - the water temp this morn was 104 degrees at startup, the hight temp sensor triggered again.  any idea. hope you understand.

  2. Sounds like the high limit is tripping, or possible comm error. To determine which way to look- look for the "control unplugged" led on the main IQ2020, and see if it's lit. If so, it's not high limit related- try unplugging the multi-color light. If that doesn't do it, likely need either new PCB or control head. If "Control Unplugged" is not lit, then it's a tripping high limit- Check for good circ pump flow, check for dirty filter, and check the high limit thermistor
  3. Unfortunately, that's likely the result of it not being tight enough at that spot, or an issue with the copper strap being damaged. I doubt the amp draw of the heater is too high, but put an amp clamp on it to be sure.
  4. If the "heater on" light is not on, you're correct, the PCB is not giving the signal to energize the heater. Try a new control thermistor (temp sensor). They're usually sold in pairs, as the hgigh limit thermistor is right next to the control thermistor in the heater, they're different thread sizes, but since you're doing one you may want to go ahead and do the other. They're around 20-25 bucks each IIRC
  5. Get rid of the Chlorine tablet Use granular chlorine (sodium dichlor) if you wish to keep using the ion cartridge, as well as a non chlorine shock (MPS). The chlorine in the tablet is a different chemical compound, with very different chemical properties than what you would like to use in a covered spa. It probably fine to use now.
  6. It's a 2002 Hot Spring Sovereign. Hope that helps
  7. There's an ozone restriction in place to prevent that from happening, it was the small gray piece inside the vinyl tubing- was that removed when the injector was installed?
  8. If the mini jumper bank has an option for light configuration, ensure that it's set for 12v. If that doesn't apply, no voltageat the light harness on the main PCB, and good fuses, means a bad PCB
  9. Look very closely inside the equipment compartment, and particularly around the light for any sign of moisture, that may end up below the pan and end up coming out of the hole that is drilled for the drain.
  10. A single click is what you want to hear. No click would mean either a bad thermistor, or bad heater relay. If it's a 95 or 96, you need good circ pump flow to close the flow switch. Good luck!
  11. Fist, Is the pump motor spinning, and just in need of a prime? If not... A few quick questions. When you mention it's getting 120v, is it a 120v motor? Are you measuring voltage between line and neutral on the pump, while under load? If so the motor is bad. Again. Or, it's not wired properly. If the 120v vanishes under load, it's not really getting 120v. If the flow switch is closed when it should be open, this might be normal. Try unplugging the flow switch, then turning on the spa. It will still give a flow error, but at least it will energize the pump. If you're still not getting power, time to call a pro.
  12. Yes, we have experience with bromine generators as well. As mentioned above, if special care is taken, they are not terribly bad. But bromine has a very low PH, and constant care must be taken to keep the PH balanced. Good for you if you're the one of the few that's happy (long term) with your product, and results. Unfortunately, you're in very select company. You father is not a terribly large base on which to build an opinion. We service roughly 4,000 spas per year, and have been doing so since the 1990's. You might feel differently after explaining to 30 or 40 customers per year why they're spending over $1,000 on repairs to a that's just few years old, all due to self inflicted damage from chlorine and bromine generators. The main point of this is they are not set it and forget it items. Even so, we still perform many warranty repairs on spas equipped with bromine and chlorine generators. The failure rate on components on spas equipped with salt water chlorine/bromine generators is exponentially higher than spas maintained with traditional methods. As far as specific failures, over-sanitation is a common theme. Most units have no way to determine the amount of sanitizer in the water (only salt), and leave it up to the consumer to input an output value. Virtually all spas have a cover over them. When the spa goes unused, the sanitizer accumulates. Unlike a swimming pool, where rain and the sun break down chlorine and bromine, no such process occurs in a spa. It is not unusual to find chlorine and bromine levels over 50ppm. Also, very few owners manuals speak of the importance of CYA (chlorine stabilizer). CYA limits the effectiveness, and corrosive properties, of chlorine. The salt itself eventually damages the metal components in the spa. Anyway, many people do enjoy them, but unfortunately, there also very many who end up regretting the purchase. As long as you maintain properly, your chances of being happy with your purchase will increase exponentially. Good luck in your search
  13. Both are awful for most customers, in my opinion. In no way, shape, or form will theyl come close to paying for themselves. What most people get is over-sanitation, and premature component failures that never end. I think the industry should rename salt water systems to pre-intslled chlorine factories. That being said, they are covenant, and when special care is taken and regular maintenance is performed, damage is kept at a minimum. But the generators lend themselves to a laissez-faire attitude that can turn very costly, very quickly.
  14. yes, just OHM out the thermistors one at a time. If they're very close, they're okay. Set your meter on a 20k OHM scale. About the Ozone valve, I'm not talking about the Ozone check valve, I'm talking about the Ozone venturi valve. Hardness accumulates at that valve, and can block water flow. Since you don't have an Ozone generator anymore, simply remove the venturi valve. You can also just buy a new thermistor (38416) and plug it in, but don't plumb it in, leave the original plumbed in. You can meter out the original as the spa runs to see just how warm the water is getting inside the heater. Here is a chart http://www.backyardplus.com/pdf/thermistor-testing-chart.pdf THIS IS FOR TESTING ONLY DO NOT LEAVE IT IN THIS CONDITION This is only to determine if the heater actually is overheating as indicated. If this doesn't make sense to you, stop here, and call a pro.
  15. First suspect would be an issue with the interior auxiliary control panel (The one inside the tub). It plugs into the IQ2020 control box like a telephone jack. Take the cover off the IQ2020 control box, and unplug it- see if the problem vanishes.
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