Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About wish2fish

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  1. Prior to switching to the @ease system I removed my filter and replaced with my backup filter. The filter was coated with a chalky white substance. If you put it between your fingers it has a gritty texture. Everything on the outside just washed off but still has some of this substance in the pleats. I have tried warm water, soaking in cleaning vinegar and finally tried the filter cleaning tablets. None of these have dissolved the white substance. I've had this spa for 5+ years and have never encountered anything like this. What is this stuff and does anyone have suggestions for getting it out of the pleats.
  2. I don't have any advice. did you get it working?
  3. Wanted to share my experience with the @ease smart chlor system. Historically I've used bromine to sanitize my spa. During the winter my skin would get really itchy and rash in several locations. It was so bad I had to limit how much I used my spa. I did try using chlorine for a few weeks and had the same problem. In the beginning of December I switched to the Frog @Ease SmartChlor Floating Chlorine and Mineral sanitizing system. Since the switch I have not had any issues with rash and dry itchy skin. I have actually been using the spa for longer periods too knowing I won't be getting the rash. Now, this system isn't cheap. A 4 month supply costs about $84 but it definitely has made a difference for me. @ease starter kit comes with a mineral unit that lasts 4 months and 1 smart chlor unit that they estimate lasts 3-4 weeks. My smart smart chlor unit is about empty so that timeline is about right. You can buy the smart chlor refill (3 more units) seperately from the starter kit. I realize some of you can manage your spa with individual chemicals but I had trouble trying to maintain bromine/chlorine, pH and alkalinity previously. With the @Ease system, I shock occasionally and test the levels weekly. I don't see the fluctuations that I saw previously.
  4. Is it a friction heated model? I have a dreammaker and it doesn't have a heating element. My manual list those same control models as your mentioned.
  5. I have a DreamMaker X400. It is a roto molded 110 volt model. I use my spa a lot during the winter. It sits on an elevated covered porch but has exposure from 3 sides. When using I only expose half by flipping back half the cover. If it is above freezing, the spa does a decent job keeping up with the cold temperatures until you approach freezing and below. I will use the spa down to 25 degree F. In that 25 to 32 degree range the spa will go from 100 to 98 in less than 30 minutes. I do not use the air control when temps are this cold as it will lose heat even faster. I'm trying to find solutions so I can get a little more time. I like to watch basketball/football games in the spa and would like to stay in up to an hour. As stated above, I only flip back half the cover. I was thinking about getting a section of pool solar cover and cutting out a section where I sit. Also considered wrapping the spa with more insulation during the winter which would also help reduced heat loss when not using the spa. Thanks for any ideas.
  6. I mostly agree with QGolden. I bought my X400 used at least 5 years ago. My spa will gain heat with the cover off and jets running. It has a harder time as we reach below freezing temps and will lose temp when using. If temps above 40 degrees F, the jets will shutdown after the 10 minute cycle. I will turn them on again.
  7. not sure about your spa, but on my spa the temp sensors don't touch the water at all. They sit in pvc channel that is right in the area of the control board. If your sensors do touch the water, they should be removable. I would find them and clean them.
  8. I have a Dreammaker x400 that I bought used over 5 years ago. It meets our needs which sound similar to yours. Usually only 2 people so size is fine. Only problem I have is during the winter (when below freezing) it is hard to keep hot after the lid is opened. It just can't keep up with the heat loss. It is a friction heater.
  9. Interested in this topic. Where do you get concentrated hydrogen peroxide. Is the stuff at the pharmacy strong enough?
  10. I have a continuous Bosch hot water heater. I turn the temperature down to 104 degrees and fill from the stationary tub faucet (hose ready) using a 75' hose. Out the window, around the house and up on the deck.
  11. this looks nasty. wonder what the cause was.
  12. Thinking about switching to salt water with a chlorine generator for my hot tub. Does anyone have one of the after market models that you just hang over the side? Thoughts, comments, suggestions appreciated. T
  13. I have a Dreammaker and mine control is attached firmly. I assume it is it just screwed into the roto molded plastic. Its to cold outside (~20) to pull the motor cover of and give it a check for you.
  • Create New...