rmcderm313 Posted September 22, 2020 Report Share Posted September 22, 2020 Hi All, Newbie spa repair question.. Can I use slice the slice valves on either side of a pump to replace it when the tub is full? I believe this is what they are there for but I'm wondering about the effectiveness stopping water flow when the tub is full? My tub is inside, on a concrete slab but I don't really want a ton of water coming out. I can handle the water inside the volute if the slice valves really do hold, but if they are just meant to stop some of the water I'll opt to drain the tub instead. If they are pretty effective I'll give it a shot. I also do understand that a valve's performance is only as good as it's condition so I'll take responses with that context. Thank you. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianSpaTech Posted September 22, 2020 Report Share Posted September 22, 2020 59 minutes ago, rmcderm313 said: I also do understand that a valve's performance is only as good as it's condition and you never know until you try. Just the way it is. Just loosen the pump union enough to let the water in the wet end to drain and if it still keeps running out after a minute or 2 you might have to drain the spa. Some pumps will have a 3/8" line attached to the face of the pump and will not be affected by the slice valves in which case you have to pull the line off and quickly plug it or water will just keep running out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cusser Posted September 22, 2020 Report Share Posted September 22, 2020 My spa is old (32 years) but the slice valves have never really sealed well. In fact, I've replaced the "innards" by removing the four screws and slipping in parts from a new slice valve, helped some. So I wouldn't count on such valves to do a great valve keeping things dry for you during your repair. When I plumbed the lines to an external filter, I installed ball valves to isolate that for filter cleaning/replacement. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmcderm313 Posted September 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2020 The slice valves didn't work completely. I held a wet vac over the barb where the priming tube was attached and I couldn't seem to empty the volute (the priming tube was pinched and removed). I also held the vac against the bottom of the pump union and let it drip pretty well for 5-7 minutes and it didn't seem to slow down. I'm thinking about picking up a couple of these, which should be able to be screwed into the pump union to seal it while I repair the pump; if I can get them in there quickly. https://www.lowes.com/pd/LASCO-2-in-x-2-in-dia-Plug-PVC-Fitting/3447460 My pump has a 2" inlet and outlet. I think this should screw right into the union and block it just like the pump does. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratchett Posted September 23, 2020 Report Share Posted September 23, 2020 51 minutes ago, rmcderm313 said: Thoughts Is water that expensive where you live? In my town refilling a 200 gallon 3-seater equates to $1.39 in water charges. Just drain the dang thing and do the job right without stressing out and making a mess Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmcderm313 Posted September 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2020 8 minutes ago, ratchett said: Is water that expensive where you live? In my town refilling a 200 gallon 3-seater equates to $1.39 in water charges. Just drain the dang thing and do the job right without stressing out and making a mess Hmm, just the way I was raised. If I can avoid dumping 600 gallons of water, I try to. I'm looking at possibly needing to replace a series of pumps and it would end up being a time saver if I could do it 'right' with the tub filled. Thanks for your input tho... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDspaguy Posted September 27, 2020 Report Share Posted September 27, 2020 I frequently drain an older tub, or use some winter plugs and get wet. I don't trust old slice valves. The gate inside the valve can stick when you close it and you just pull out the handle when you try to open it. Then you have another repair that you do have to drain for. And not all slice valves are bolt-together like @Cusser, so then you're cutting and replumbing too. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmcderm313 Posted October 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2020 I know this idea wasn't really of interest to many people but I've got 4 non-working pumps to deal with and it would be nice to not have to empty it each time I work on a pump. Where I only get to work on the tub for an hour every couple of days, it would have meant either leaving it empty for an extended period or multiple drainings. I ended up buying these test plugs and they worked well on my 2" plumbing. I replaced a non-working pump with a new pump today using the slice valves, a wet vac and these plugs. I think the slice valves would have worked pretty well anyway (lucky) but I felt less rushed with these plugs in, knowing my frame wasn't getting wet with even a small drip. They were $4 each at my local hardware store. -Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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