Jump to content

rmcderm313

Members
  • Posts

    97
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

rmcderm313 last won the day on October 16 2020

rmcderm313 had the most liked content!

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Massachsetts

Recent Profile Visitors

795 profile views

rmcderm313's Achievements

Spa Savant

Spa Savant (3/5)

13

Reputation

  1. Thanks to you both. I'll do some more research and make up the plug. Then stand back and flip the breaker It sounds like just ground to ground (green) and then black to one hot prong and white to the other. -Rob
  2. Hi All, I've been testing/fixing my pumps using a 120v wall plug for short durations. I've found in some cases that on 120v a pump won't spin up without help, but when I hook it up to the 240v connection in the tub it works fine. I have an unused 240v dryer outlet which is a NEMA 10-30 style from my research. I'd like to use this outlet to bench test my pumps on 240v. Can I just use a pump cable and replace the board connection side with a 240v NEMA 10-30 plug? I do realize that I could also just plug the pump into the board with it outside the tub, but honestly the less I can touch the board the better I'll feel. When the tub is working I'd much rather leave things alone. Is 240v power from this type of outlet OK to run a 240v hot tub pump? Thanks for any insight. Rob
  3. I had a heater connection burn up on me as well on a Balboa board/heater. Mine was using the copper tabs instead of wires. I suspect a loose connection (based on feedback here). Since then I've made it part of my monthly routine to check those connections with a small torque wrench (specs were in the heater and board manual) to make sure they haven't vibrated loose at all. I also had an extra board and also ended up sending my burned board off to be fixed. It came back looking pretty good, but I haven't swapped it back in to test it yet. Good luck, Rob
  4. Thanks guys. I'll check the big box stores again. Last time the shelves were empty of 'regular' bleach. -Rob
  5. Hi All, We're having a hard time finding simple bleach locally. Everything is splashless or scented or something. We found this A-1 concentrated bleach which provides a decent ingredient list in a PDF which I have attached. Can anyone tell me if Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Silicate and Sodium Metaperiodate would be problematic to use in our tub? I still don't know what % Hypochlorite it is, but it's probably better then the 3% stuff I've been using. Thanks, Rob A-1_Concentrated-Bleach-64oz_0-54200-03107-4.pdf
  6. Hi All, Quick update. I got the old board that burned up repaired. I sent it to a place I found online. www.spacare.com. I would have liked to find someone local but I really couldn't find anyway interested in the repair. It cost me $205 including shipping and took about 2 weeks to turn around. They repaired the damage, replaced the heater and hi-limit relay, replaced the battery (it was leaking slightly, separate issue) and included a set of heater connection wires (which I didn't ask for but might be glad to have). Here are some pictures of the repair. Pictures of the damage can be found at the beginning of this thread. I'm not sure what I was expecting but the repair looks solid even if it's a bit messy. I've only tested general continuity of the repair. I know I should probably swap out the new board and test the repair but it's too damn cold right now. I really just wanted to have this as a backup as a new board, if one can be found is over $400. Anyway I figured it might be helpful for others to get a sense of repair costs and see the results. If I ever need to swap this back in I'll let you know how it goes but I'm guessing the repair is solid. -Rob Findings: Replace heater relay and hi-limit relay. Repair burn damage. Add a set of heater wires.
  7. Awesome. Thanks for the reply. I will make those small process adjustments based on your recommendations and cruise along. -Rob
  8. Thanks @waterbear for the reply. I was aware that the article was quite old, but I haven't been able to find much further written about the organic/inorganic chloramines. Interesting timing, this has become more of a practical matter for me since posting this question. I'm now struggling with a CC near 1ppm, and possibly even a bit over depending upon how stringent I want to be about a color change between the 2nd and 3rd drop. I'm using the K-2006 kit. My spa is on an enclosed 3-season porch, so I am concerned a bit more than others on DBP. I do open all the windows when I run the jets or use the tub at all, so ventilation is pretty good but there are no vents at the ceiling. There is no UV that hits the water. I've used the bleach/dichlor method on this fill, which was filled on January 16th. CYA is right around 30ppm. I did use 50ppm boric acid at fill. TA has been consistent around 50. Chlorine demand is reasonable. I do not use MPS and only bleach (after Dichlor to reach desired CYA) I use bleach after every soak to ensure I start the next day with between 3-5ppm FC. Sometimes I shoot a bit high and start the next day with between 8-10ppm. We shower before using the spa every time. I've been shocking every Monday with bleach. 16oz of 8.25% which bumps the FC to between 18-20 depending on how much we've used the spa over the weekend. Water is crystal clear and only has a slight chlorine/chemical smell up close. Up until recently pH has been right at 7.4-7.5 without effort, but in the last week it has climbed to 7.8. Not clear on why this happened. Aside from the boric acid and some calcium to raise CH to 150ppm at startup (our water is soft), the only chemicals I have used are the Dichlor (to get to 30ppm CYA) and then bleach. Today for the first time I added 2oz of Boric acid and 2 tbsp of calcium. Where I've had to add some fresh water over time to keep the tub to a good level, I figured I should compensate for that loss for the fresh water and that maybe the additional Boric acid might help lower my pH a bit or at least provide a bit of an additional buffer. Given all this, should I be able to get rid of that combined chlorine by 'shocking' with bleach each week? Or is it possible that in my situation I will not be able to get rid of it until I drain and refill. Is there anything else I can try? Finally, so far we are not bothered by what might be greater than 1ppm combined chlorine. Is there any danger in that? Or is it more that it might irritate some people's skin or eyes? I have very sensitive skin so I'm surprised I haven't encountered an issue yet. Thanks as always for sharing your knowledge. Rob
  9. On mine the screws that hold on the wider panels are beneath the 3 thin vertical rails on each side. However, on mine you can see the screw heads (with caps) on those rails. You might try sliding those rails up or down, or maybe they are flexible enough to (gently) pry off to reveal the main panel screws. -Rob
  10. Hi All, I'm interested what folks on this forum think of the findings of this article from Aqua magazine. It's general premise is that super-chlorinating to release chloramines only addresses inorganic chloramines and will leave behind any organic. Article on Break-point Chlorination If I read and understood correctly, even MPS will not address organic chloramines and the only way to get rid of them is by 'draining and dilution'. Although the article does also mention that MPS might have advantages over chlorine in releasing less 'disinfection byproducts' (DPB's). I've noticed a number of posters who super-chlorinate (and/or use MPS for that matter) but still have some undesirable combined chlorine readings. I have a minor issue with this, but it's not been enough to worry too much about. I haven't read in any of the responses a reference to possible organic chloramines being part of the issue that, if this article is accurate, you cannot get rid of. I only stumbled across this article in the course of researching the break-point process and I have no concept of its accuracy. It seems well balanced in it's approach, even pointing out that DuPont has a vested interest in pushing MPS. I'm not trying to spread fake news, that is why I'm interested in the opinions of those contributors here who have helped me get my hot tub water chemistry in very good shape. Any thoughts? Thanks, Rob
  11. Hi Cassie, I'm going to throw this out there just in case something in my situation provides a thread to follow for you. I also have an issue with a rash. It's not as disruptive as yours but it is bothersome and unsightly. When it's bad it keeps me up at night. It is definitely worse with use of my tub, and might possibly be induced by it. My rash is 100% localized to my stomach and lower back, and more prominent on my ribcage (i.e. not so much on the center of my stomach). Nothing on my legs, chest or 'where my swim trunks go'. One thing I can say for sure is that Winter time is when it happens (at least so far). I spend a lot of time outdoors in the Summer and my skin is exposed to sunlight more. A dermatologist once diagnosed it as 'winter rash', which is just severely dry skin that is further aggravated by hot water or other stimulants. I've only owned a hot tub since September, but even before that when I visited a hotel or whatever in the winter a hot tub would trigger this rash. I didn't pay close attention enough before, but now that I own the tub I'm taking closer notice to the season when it happens. Where I noticed you are also in Massachusetts and subject to cold temperatures I thought I'd mention that. I can't say for sure this might be a clue because the rash doesn't completely go away between hot tub soaks, but intense exercise also makes it worse. This is particularly the case if I wear a shirt that is tight around that area. I guess what I'm pointing out here is that in the cold temperatures, when my skin is drier, heating up this area either by hot tub or exercise seems to make this worse. The best remedy for me, which seemed counter intuitive at first for dry skin, is gold bond powder. I used to try lotion or 'Aquaphor' and the additional moisture seemed to aggravate it more. Powder dries up the rash and helps much more. In fact, plain corn starch works even better or at least as well. I always shower after getting out of the tub just to rinse off (in addition to before getting in). Now that I own a tub, I will definitely pay more attention once the warm weather gets here to see if my rash goes completely away or remains. Like you, no one else in my family has any adverse reaction when using the tub. Not to be gross, but I'm adding a picture of my rash that I sent to the dermatologist mentioned above for comparison. This was right after getting out of the tub. It looks a bit like acne but like you say it goes away after a bit, and doesn't exist anywhere else on my body. The other thing that I will mention, only because you mentioned that you had Lyme, is that I had shingles in my late 20's. Which is pretty young to get them. The dermatologist also mentioned that the neurological nature of shingles can cause all kinds of future 'flare-ups'. I'm certainly not a doctor, but if Lyme can have a similar affect it might be something to talk to your doctor about. Anyway, I hope your situation works out. I'm still hoping to find a clue as to what triggers this for me, but for now it's not bad enough to keep me out of the tub. Rob
  12. Thanks @RDspaguy If I understand you correctly, you're saying that the picture in the manual is the same as the jet in the link at waterway parts; do I have that correct? and, the 'jet body' is what is shown in the actual photo of my spa. Also correct? I'm not sure how to get that jet body out. Is it screwed in? I'll need to get a closer look at it when the temperature goes above freezing. Thanks for the response, I'll probably take a run at it in the Summer time. Rob
  13. On my Balboa system, any given pump will turn off automatically 30 minutes after being turned on. Also, all pumps turn on for 1-2 minutes at the beginning of every filter cycle. The only other time I've experienced a pump shutting off automatically is when the thermal protection would kick in on the motor, which indicates an issue causing the pump to overheat. After 30 seconds or so, the pump cools enough to turn back on if you press the button again, but it would not turn on automatically again (at least not on my system). Again, this indicates some problem with the pump that should be investigated. Rob
  14. Here are a couple of attempts at better pictures of the existing jet. It's tough to get a good angle as the tub is full.
  15. Hi All, On my 2009 Thermospas Manhattan, 2 of the seats have 'Shoulder Jets' on each side of the headrest. I think they might be missing a piece. Maybe some kind of insert that clips onto them. I've included a picture of the jets as they are now; as well as the page from the manual that shows what they should look like. Clearly different. The previous owner thinks they were like this all along, and given the fact that all 4 are the same, I doubt that anything just 'fell off'. When the jets are on, a steady stream of water come out of these jets, but not nearly strong enough to reach your shoulder. I suspect if there was a part that was restricting the outflow, like is shown in the user manual, it would provide the pressure to hit your shoulders with a spray. Any insight into whether these are actually a shoulder jet with a missing part, or whether Thermospas just installed the wrong jet in this place. I wouldn't be surprised honestly with some of the design issues with this spa. Although most of my issues are with the frame construction. I did find this possible replacement part linked below. I'm not sure if my jets are actually waterways jets or not. Possible Match? If no one has any insight I'll probably just order one of those internal assemblies and see if I can pull the cap off and put it on my jet. As always, all help is appreciated. Thanks, Rob
×
×
  • Create New...