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rmcderm313 last won the day on October 16 2020

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About rmcderm313

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  1. 2009 Thermospas Manhattan - 24 HR Circ pump, 5 jet pumps, Wave lounge diverter valve

  2. @waterbearMy spa is indoors, so no sunlight. Since taking up the bleach/dichlor method, my numbers have all been good including CC, but I had an equipment failure soon after switching to this method, so I've only really had a few weeks of experience with it. I'll try and stick with bleach only (after 30ppm CYA) and see if CC ever becomes an issue. Thanks for the help! Rob
  3. @waterbearThank you for the response. I didn't realize how precise the process might be. I use the Taylor 2006 so I would be looking at the add-on. Based on your other response, I might just hold off on MPS unless a need arises. Rob
  4. 3/4 oz with a dropper and instructions is $30 Amazon Kit Just the R-0867 deox is $14 for 2 ounces Amazon Deox Reagent Seems like a big price difference for a dropper and instructions..
  5. Hi All, I have a question on using MPS with the bleach/dichlor method. I'd like to use some to assist the dichlor/bleach with oxidization. It sounds like a good idea to keep my chlorine demand low and there doesn't appear to be any significant downsides. My TA is low at 50ppm. My pH is good at 7.6 but I have seen it drift up at times with use so using MPS should also help me keep pH on the lower side if I understand correctly. I've also read that MPS can result in a false high combined chlorine reading. With my K-2006 test kit, I'd need to use the K-2041 to remove this interferenc
  6. Thank you both. I knew CYA 'softened' the effect of FC but I had no idea it could be so pronounced. I should have about 20ppm CYA before the weekend, and will be stopping the dichlor and switching to bleach when I project to hit 30 as advised. I must admit I'm still confused about a safe level of free chlorine. If I get to 30ppm CYA, it sounds like from your statement above that I should be ok with any FC up to 10ppm (I'm just making an estimate based on the numbers above and picking a guideline FC number). I appreciate the answers and assistance. Rob
  7. Hi All, I have what I hope to be a simple question. What is the maximum ppm of free chlorine in a spa to safely use it? My K-2006 test kit booklet suggests 5.0 as the max, but I'd just like to hear from the board to see if there are any caveats or further considerations. I'm using the bleach/dichlor approach, and have read all of the stickys carefully. I just haven't seen an answer to this yet. I want to make sure I'm timing my chlorine additions correctly so we'll be able to use the spa when we want. I'm on a fresh fill, 700 gallon spa. CH=130, pH=7.6, TA=50. My first Dichl
  8. @RDspaguyI'm curious how you knew that the blower connection used a triac instead of a relay. Is there a reason they would choose a different mechanism for a blower vs. pump? On my damaged board, I was testing the continuity between the connection and the triac. The 'middle finger' on the triac has connectivity to the first (top most in the picture) pin of the connector. Is there something I can check on the installed board to see if the triac is indeed 'bad'. Does a triac work like a relay? I'm just trying to learn as much as possible so I appreciate the coaching. Rob
  9. A triac huh? That's a new one for me. Thanks for that. I'll need to do some research and learn more about those. I checked the filter cycles and they were set for 8-10 AM and 8-10 PM, so I guess that is the default. I haven't tried plugging it back in again. The spa heated up to 100 degrees overnight so that was a welcomed sight. I'm balancing the chemicals so we can get back in and start using it. I'll turn the GFCI off and back on later this week and see what happens. If it starts to run automatically again, I'll just let it run and see if it goes off after 5 minutes. @RDspa
  10. That picture is after I unplugged it. It was plugged into J6 when it started up automatically when I turned the GFCI on.
  11. Well, mostly success. I replaced the board, and decided to order an entire new heater manifold because I just wasn't comfortable with how close the element was to the inside top of the manifold. I swapped everything out today and fired it up. As soon as I flipped the GFCI switch, the blower came on. So I unplugged the blower from the board and moved forward. Everything fired up as expected. All pumps are working and the heater is heating the water up. 45 to 51 degrees in about an hour. I'm not sure what the blower is all about. Could this be a DIP switch setting? I did make su
  12. I can't even find one available or one with a price even listed, but the in.yt-7 which supports far fewer items shows a price of $725. I'm not sure I want to know what the in.yt-12 lists for....
  13. Thanks guys. This is super helpful, even if not necessarily what I wanted to hear It's possible, but not easy to swap out the PAC. That Gecko unit is interesting. I found it strange that with all the functionality it only supports a 4kW heater. Wouldn't a unit like that normally be for larger spas and need a 5.5kW ideally? Certainly an option if it came to it. I think what I'm learning is to keep my board as healthy as possible so I'm not faced with needing to replace it. Luckily I had a new one that came with the spa (it was a warranty repair for the original owner that turned o
  14. Hi All, Question on running multiple pumps from a single board connection. As background, the Thermospa spa I inherited has 5 jet pumps, a circ pump, a blower, a light and a diverter valve for a wave lounge. I had no idea how 'over-featured' this tub was, but it's all mine now and I'm working through a series of issues slowly (with much help from the guys on here). On my existing board (Balboa EL8000 Mach 3), pumps 2 & 4, and pumps 3 & 5 connect to the same connector on the board with a 'Y' or splitter connector. Then the 'hot' pin on one of the split connections is jum
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