peterstb Posted May 9, 2012 Report Share Posted May 9, 2012 Hi, I have a 13 year old pool and filtration/heating system, with a Sta-Rite heater (model: SR400NA). Recently, the heater stopped working, with the "Service System" light coming on, when an attempt to raise the water temperature above the temperature of the water in the heater is made, regardless of being set on "Pool" or "Spa". After some research, I found some threads indicating that this was probably a "pressure switch" problem, as I had already attempted to clean the filters to address any water flow issues. I took my ohm meter, and set it to perform a continuity test (touching the leads together beeps...). I took off the wire-leads to the pressure switch, and tested with the ohm meter, and there was no beep, indicating that there was not continuity. According to the article below, there is an issue with the pressure switch http://ezinearticles...-One&id=6703399 Another article I read, indicated that you could attempt to bypass the switch, by touching the two wire-leads together, which I attempted to do by inserting a piece of wire between the two, since the leads were protected by rubber lead-clip covers. (I'm not sure if the wire I used was appropriate, or would have worked, because it was all I had available to me at the time. It was a piece of coax cable...) None-the-less, this did not cause the heater to start working. I'm considering going to the local pool store today, to purchase a pressure switch, but I hate to make an un-necessary purchase, if the issue is actually related to something else. I'm hoping someone on this forum can support my conclusion, or offer other thoughts on what the problem might be? Some supporting information, if it helps: - I set the pool and spa temperatures on the lowest setting possible (32 degrees), and the "Service System" light went off in both cases - Raising the temp of either, above the current temperature in the system causes the light to come back on - Water pressure seems to be good, as I'm getting really good flow to my pool sweep - How can I tell if water is getting into the heater? I opened the inlet and outlet pipes, and there doesn't seem to be any obstructions Any information/help is greatly appreciated! Thanks, Todd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoolGuyNJ Posted May 10, 2012 Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 Bypassing the pressure switch is ONLY done during the troubleshooting phase. It is part of the SAFETY CIRCUIT. Never run a pool heater of any type without the pressure switch active at any other time. To do so can result in a warped heat exchanger, lots of leaks, and a large bill for either repairs of replacement of the heater. If the pump was on and leads to the pressure switch were removed, touching the leads with ohm meter should give 0 ohms and a beep. If touching the switch's connections doesn't beep with the pump on, the switch is either bad or there isn't enough pressure in the heat exchanger to make the switch, a potentially more serious problem, possibly corrosion or the internal by-pass is stuck open. Twelve years is pretty long for a pool heater. Don't dump much money into it. It doesn't have much of a dollar value left. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted May 10, 2012 Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 First, make sure that you are getting a good contact on your jumper wire by-passing the pressure switch. If you still aren't getting the heaters' blower, something else is going on. Follow the wires from the pressure switch back to the board and confirm that a pest has not eaten away the wire, or any wires for that matter Remember, you are testing that switch, the jumper is NOT a fix. If when you do this, the blower starts, pull the jumper off. Your test is done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterstb Posted May 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2012 After a bit more research, learned from another thread that I had tested the pressure switch incorrectly. I did not turn the pump on before testing the switch. When I retested, I did get a continuity reading, so I have now ruled out the switch. I feel I'm getting in a bit over my head, so I have requested a technician to come out and take a look. Thanks so much for your responses! Todd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ps0303 Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 If you had removed the top of the heater where the display is at, while the pump is running and the heater is turned on, and turned it over, there are LEDS with abreviations next to each one and they relate to various parts on the heater safety circuit. The eluminated LED would most likley tell you what is wrong. For example, if the "PS" LED is lit, then it's probably the pressure switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted May 24, 2012 Report Share Posted May 24, 2012 If you had removed the top of the heater where the display is at, while the pump is running and the heater is turned on, and turned it over, there are LEDS with abreviations next to each one and they relate to various parts on the heater safety circuit. The eluminated LED would most likley tell you what is wrong. For example, if the "PS" LED is lit, then it's probably the pressure switch. Good advice. However, many times those lights will only tell you which part the problem is influencing. And many times you will get no LEDs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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