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PoolGuyNJ last won the day on January 13

PoolGuyNJ had the most liked content!

About PoolGuyNJ

  • Birthday June 29

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    Waretown, NJ
  • Interests
    Helping to keep homeowners in control of their pool.
    Serving Monmouth and Ocean counties and The Princeton Route 1 corridor communities.
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Spa Guru

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  1. We need a lot more info about the pool. A 1.5 ppm of combined chlorine (2 TC - .5 FC) is way too much CC. 100 ppm of CYA is too much, especially in the NE. A 0 ppm TC value means you aren't adding enough frequently enough or you're not using a chlorine elevator. Scott
  2. There are no fiberglass pools 10' deep. That would make them too long and too wide to travel on a truck. The main reason they have a lower chemical usage is they are smaller. It's that simple. The gel coat on them does wear out. Nothing will make it look new again though some paints will make a markedly improved appearance over a work shell's existing. It's a lot of work though. Liner and plaster pools can go to 10' deep. Remember though, with the added depth, the width and length of the bottom and slope increase. You'll get just as wet regardless of the pool, even a kiddy pool. Wet is wet. A plaster pool has a little more care needed than a liner pool in most cases due to the need to watch the calcium level. With liner pools, this is usually only needed in areas of hard water but for all plastered pools, the calcium is the main ingredient in the cement used and, with plain plasters and products like Diamond Brite, the marble dust in them is also largely calcium. Water, being the "Universal Solvent", when a pool is incorrectly balanced, can either etch or form scale if the pH balance is off. Not a big deal as testing and corrective action are pretty simple. Different plasters have different life spans. Plain plaster lasts about 10 years and is then redone. High aggregate finishes, such as Pebble Tech or Wet Edge Pearl Matrix have live spans over 25 years. I have never heard of either being replaced due to wear. They cost more but when amortized over the same life span, they come out less costly. Liners by me typically last about 10 to 12 years and are then replaced. Costs will vary for each by location. An apples to apples comparison doesn't exist as every build or install is different. As I have said before, beware of low bids. That usually winds up costing you more somewhere. Scott Scott
  3. Likely to be the filter's belly ring, the o-ring between the halves. Scott
  4. I would think a 1 HP would be fine. No real need that I see going to a 1.5 HP pump. I don't build pools,. I just fix them. As such, I have no preference for the wall brand. Ask the local township engineer what the local soil conditions are. It sounds like clay by your post hole digging experiences and precautions may need to be taken, especially if there are drainage issues in addition to or as a result of the build. The existing soil may not be a suitable bed and would need additional measures such as gravel added, the use of other than dig spoils for back fill and french drains. You might need a soils engineer's report. They cost but can save you worse expenses later if precautions weren't in place and were needed. A pool this sized will need 3 Color Logic fixtures. I can't comment on the other fixtures without knowing what they are. Remember, if it isn't in writing, it wasn't said. Scott
  5. All three liner manufacturers have 20 and 28 mil liners. Walls and floors are typically 15% more for each. FYI, thicker doesn't last longer but rather is used with concrete or rusted walls. I agree with LegsOnEarth that PB#2 shows more promise. An S310 is a better sized filter. The 3/4 and 244T from PB#1 is too small, as is the 1.5 pipe. You need more than 1 skimmer. if the surface area is 1400 sq feet. . Scott
  6. I really think you'll be better served bringing in a vinyl liner kit. I have little confidence in a filled block wall. You'd need #4 rebar, 12" on center or better and the side walls of the block to be able to support the pressure without crumbing the cement holding their aggregate. The block used in construction here in the North East are called cinder blocks and contain a lot of aggregate. If you have the same type, they are great when pressing weight from above but, even when filled, the actual block may deteriorate because of the pressure. A denser cement block with more cement and a finer aggregate will be needed and a 10-12" bond beam around the perimeter built. The floor almost has to be poured. A 6" thick floor with #3 rebar on 12" centers is the bottom line with 4000 psi concrete. Those rebars need to climb up the wall and block be inserted when building the wall. Seems the idea of laying horizontal rebar more than every row would exceed the minimum strength I see needed. Dobies will be needed to keep the rebar in the concrete. Any in-ground kit will need excavation. With a liner kit, you can over dig the hole some for walking room. to put in plumbing. I'd use either a sand bottom or 2" cement with chicken wire mesh reinforcement, assuming a sandy bottom. Somehow, I can't see a clay bed being there. Back filling is easy with sand plentiful. It'll come on pallets and boxes. Just know what depths you want so the liner gets made right. It's just so much faster and easier to put a liner pool in your location. Scott
  7. Ozone only? Hello algae. Hello person to person transmission of infections and the like. Hello to an increase in bather wastes in the pool. Ozone is not a primary sanitizer. It can only augment it. If someone is touting otherwise, either the person representing it that way has no clue how and or why it might work or the snake oil salesman can safely be given. AFAIK, ozone has no effect on algae. It will grow. Ozone has a short half life. It breaks down quickly. therefore, there can not be a useful residual in the pool. It won't last long enough. It takes up to five turns of the water volume to filter all the water in most pools. Since the ozone injection point is normally on the suction side of a pump, it takes an equal amount of water to pass (five turns worth) to potentially (the ozone molecules may miss the target since the concentration is low) oxidize the water. With a residual sanitizer in the pool's water, chances are that anything that needs oxidizing, such as sweat and tanning lotions, has already been gotten at before it hits the ozonated water at the pump. Just for argument's sake, lets shut the pump off at sundown. In an hour or so, all the ozone will be gone. In a B&B with a pool, what are the chances someone will want to swim one night, before bed. Sweat, tanning lotions, dead skin, and any other form of bather waste is now in the pool. And for how long? Let's say it rains. Rain can carry algae spores. You'd soon have an algae bloom in the pool and ozone injection couldn't do anything about it. Scott
  8. Here's the Wiki on mud jacking, aka slab jacking: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Concrete_leveling A number of holes are core drilled in the floor and slope. Fill one with the desired amount, reseal the core with hydraulic cement. Continue as needed to right the ship, so to speak. Sometimes cheaper than busting out and rebuilding a gunite pool bottom. Building up a bond beam and replacing the skimmers so they are at the right height may not keep it from happening again. Scott
  9. You are going to be pretty limited in your selection of a fiberglass by requiring an 8' depth. If by a good diving board, you mean a 1 meter spring board, you're looking at 10 to 12' of depth and longer and wider slopes for the hopper. For the rest of us, we have non-spring loaded boards. Very little bounce. Pool installers need warmer weather to work so the more Southern states can be priced more competitively. Don't get fixated on cheaper. You'll get what you paid for but that may not be what you need. Scott Scott
  10. How are you going to prevent it from doing it again after it's fixed? That's the purpose of the report, It'll say if drainage is needed and where it is suggested. Lets say it was just mud jacked level. Two years of normal to heavy rain soak the ground and cause any clay finding the moisture and swell. Two years of dryer than normal conditions and the swollen clay has now shrunk. This time, the deep end sinks. Putting drainage where needed keeps the moisture away. Digging out a new bed and refilling it with something more suitable or mud jacking services aren't cheap. Doing it twice? Nah. Scott
  11. An indoor commercial pool like a Y's competition pool or a residential outdoor 16x32, it wouldn't matter much for many. Yes, salt can and does accumulate, but particularly with indoor facilities. Then would be an ideal time to install a salt cell.The important thing is that the salt contains chlorine. Whether its magnesium, potassium, or sodium, all work. The coating on the cell may benefit by being different as I am not sure but I don't think it's lye that is produced as a standard by product when potassium or magnesium salts are used. Therefore, the ruthinium oxide coating on the titanium blades may be useless. Damages what internals? Cheaply made metal parts? If there are micro-currents in the water, the pool isn't well bonded or chemically unkempt (unlikely) and doesn't have a sacrificial anode or two.
  12. NO ALGAECIDE, especially ones containing copper. Algaecides don't kill, they help prevent. Chlorine kills. Shock it to start killing the algae. Hit it with 5 pounds of cal-hypo granular, three in one shot in the morning and 2 more later in the day.. Lithium is quite expensive and since you have a low CH, the cal-hypo will add some for you. Its cheaper too. Run the filter 24/7 for now. Lets kill the algae first. After 24 or so, it relaxes its hold on the surface it adhered to and makes vacuuming easier. The chlorine level will also have dropped. Don't brush! That would put everything in suspension and possibly make particles that are too small to be easily filtered.. Save that task until you are close to finished. Vacuum to waste. Start at the shallow end. Move fairly quickly and don't try to be precise. Lets get the mass majority first before you run the water too low. This may take more than one session. Your hose to fill the pool should be on. I'll bet the pH is about 7 now. You added quite a bit of acid. If you pool is as swamped as I think it is, getting the pH, Alk, and CH levels will wait until you get the algae out. Vacuuming to waste will just blow out any chems added so don't worry over them yet. Scott
  13. First, you'll need a soils report from a soils engineer. If the pool raised or lowered, it means the soil moved. A pitched shell usually means expansive soil (clay usually) as a bed for the pool to rest on but can also be caused by creeping soil. Scott
  14. A bilge pump won't do it AFAIK. Bilge pumps need a sump to sit in and are not self priming. That mean digging a pit so it can get enough water from the suction plumbing via gravity/air pressure. It would also need to move at least 40 gallons a minute for a number of hours. That is a lot of water to move and that costs wattage, at least a 1/2 HP (746 Watts = 1 HP) plus the motor's Service Factor multiplier. Getting enough water to flow into a sump without suction will mean a lot of added complexity. Figure a 1/2 HP motor with a 1.5 SF rating would draw 4-2/3 amps at 120VAC or 2-1/3 at 240VAC. It also would make manually vacuuming a pool very difficult. Figure a salt cell is good for about 500 watts. A pool is not built with single story structure strength in mind. The pressure of the water trying to escape in all directions except up, and any land movement is likely to cause the shell to crack unless there is a rebar mesh, encased in cement, supporting the shell. The concrete needs to be at least 3500 psi rated and at least 6" thick on the floor and thicker on the walls, especially the top foot which needs to be 12" and with extra rebar used to form the bond beam. I don't think blocks will do it. They are great for supporting a vertical structure but the forces exerted for a pool are not just vertical. They aren't made for that. Pool lights are flood type in nature, not spots. The fixtures are also water proof and meant to be submerged. In order to get enough lumens in the water, higher wattage fixtures are needed. It's one thing to illuminate an air space and quite another to illuminate a water space. Scott
  15. If the motor isn't too old, I'd just put a smaller, one HP impeller and seal set for the pump and the heater warrants a 400,000 BTU unit because of the surface area of the pool. Scott
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