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PoolGuyNJ

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About PoolGuyNJ

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    Owner PoolGuyNJ LLC
  • Birthday June 29

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Waretown, NJ
  • Interests
    Helping to keep homeowners in control of their pool.
    Serving Monmouth and Ocean counties and The Princeton Route 1 corridor communities.
  • Gender
    Male
  1. We need a lot more info about the pool. A 1.5 ppm of combined chlorine (2 TC - .5 FC) is way too much CC. 100 ppm of CYA is too much, especially in the NE. A 0 ppm TC value means you aren't adding enough frequently enough or you're not using a chlorine elevator. Scott
  2. There are no fiberglass pools 10' deep. That would make them too long and too wide to travel on a truck. The main reason they have a lower chemical usage is they are smaller. It's that simple. The gel coat on them does wear out. Nothing will make it look new again though some paints will make a markedly improved appearance over a work shell's existing. It's a lot of work though. Liner and plaster pools can go to 10' deep. Remember though, with the added depth, the width and length of the bottom and slope increase. You'll get just as wet regardless of the pool, even a kiddy pool. Wet is wet.
  3. Likely to be the filter's belly ring, the o-ring between the halves. Scott
  4. I would think a 1 HP would be fine. No real need that I see going to a 1.5 HP pump. I don't build pools,. I just fix them. As such, I have no preference for the wall brand. Ask the local township engineer what the local soil conditions are. It sounds like clay by your post hole digging experiences and precautions may need to be taken, especially if there are drainage issues in addition to or as a result of the build. The existing soil may not be a suitable bed and would need additional measures such as gravel added, the use of other than dig spoils for back fill and french drains. You might
  5. All three liner manufacturers have 20 and 28 mil liners. Walls and floors are typically 15% more for each. FYI, thicker doesn't last longer but rather is used with concrete or rusted walls. I agree with LegsOnEarth that PB#2 shows more promise. An S310 is a better sized filter. The 3/4 and 244T from PB#1 is too small, as is the 1.5 pipe. You need more than 1 skimmer. if the surface area is 1400 sq feet. . Scott
  6. I really think you'll be better served bringing in a vinyl liner kit. I have little confidence in a filled block wall. You'd need #4 rebar, 12" on center or better and the side walls of the block to be able to support the pressure without crumbing the cement holding their aggregate. The block used in construction here in the North East are called cinder blocks and contain a lot of aggregate. If you have the same type, they are great when pressing weight from above but, even when filled, the actual block may deteriorate because of the pressure. A denser cement block with more cement and a fin
  7. Ozone only? Hello algae. Hello person to person transmission of infections and the like. Hello to an increase in bather wastes in the pool. Ozone is not a primary sanitizer. It can only augment it. If someone is touting otherwise, either the person representing it that way has no clue how and or why it might work or the snake oil salesman can safely be given. AFAIK, ozone has no effect on algae. It will grow. Ozone has a short half life. It breaks down quickly. therefore, there can not be a useful residual in the pool. It won't last long enough. It takes up to five turns of the water volume
  8. Here's the Wiki on mud jacking, aka slab jacking: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Concrete_leveling A number of holes are core drilled in the floor and slope. Fill one with the desired amount, reseal the core with hydraulic cement. Continue as needed to right the ship, so to speak. Sometimes cheaper than busting out and rebuilding a gunite pool bottom. Building up a bond beam and replacing the skimmers so they are at the right height may not keep it from happening again. Scott
  9. You are going to be pretty limited in your selection of a fiberglass by requiring an 8' depth. If by a good diving board, you mean a 1 meter spring board, you're looking at 10 to 12' of depth and longer and wider slopes for the hopper. For the rest of us, we have non-spring loaded boards. Very little bounce. Pool installers need warmer weather to work so the more Southern states can be priced more competitively. Don't get fixated on cheaper. You'll get what you paid for but that may not be what you need. Scott Scott
  10. How are you going to prevent it from doing it again after it's fixed? That's the purpose of the report, It'll say if drainage is needed and where it is suggested. Lets say it was just mud jacked level. Two years of normal to heavy rain soak the ground and cause any clay finding the moisture and swell. Two years of dryer than normal conditions and the swollen clay has now shrunk. This time, the deep end sinks. Putting drainage where needed keeps the moisture away. Digging out a new bed and refilling it with something more suitable or mud jacking services aren't cheap. Doing it twice? Nah. Sc
  11. An indoor commercial pool like a Y's competition pool or a residential outdoor 16x32, it wouldn't matter much for many. Yes, salt can and does accumulate, but particularly with indoor facilities. Then would be an ideal time to install a salt cell.The important thing is that the salt contains chlorine. Whether its magnesium, potassium, or sodium, all work. The coating on the cell may benefit by being different as I am not sure but I don't think it's lye that is produced as a standard by product when potassium or magnesium salts are used. Therefore, the ruthinium oxide coating on the titanium bl
  12. NO ALGAECIDE, especially ones containing copper. Algaecides don't kill, they help prevent. Chlorine kills. Shock it to start killing the algae. Hit it with 5 pounds of cal-hypo granular, three in one shot in the morning and 2 more later in the day.. Lithium is quite expensive and since you have a low CH, the cal-hypo will add some for you. Its cheaper too. Run the filter 24/7 for now. Lets kill the algae first. After 24 or so, it relaxes its hold on the surface it adhered to and makes vacuuming easier. The chlorine level will also have dropped. Don't brush! That would put everything in susp
  13. First, you'll need a soils report from a soils engineer. If the pool raised or lowered, it means the soil moved. A pitched shell usually means expansive soil (clay usually) as a bed for the pool to rest on but can also be caused by creeping soil. Scott
  14. A bilge pump won't do it AFAIK. Bilge pumps need a sump to sit in and are not self priming. That mean digging a pit so it can get enough water from the suction plumbing via gravity/air pressure. It would also need to move at least 40 gallons a minute for a number of hours. That is a lot of water to move and that costs wattage, at least a 1/2 HP (746 Watts = 1 HP) plus the motor's Service Factor multiplier. Getting enough water to flow into a sump without suction will mean a lot of added complexity. Figure a 1/2 HP motor with a 1.5 SF rating would draw 4-2/3 amps at 120VAC or 2-1/3 at 240VAC.
  15. If the motor isn't too old, I'd just put a smaller, one HP impeller and seal set for the pump and the heater warrants a 400,000 BTU unit because of the surface area of the pool. Scott
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