cranbiz

On the pump motors, there is a cap on the end which you can remove and use a screwdriver to assist in spinning the motor. If it spins freely with the power off, then try spinning the shaft when the tub tries to start the motor. If it starts, you need a motor start capacitor. If it doesn't start, now you need to see if the motor is getting the right voltage to it. If it doesn't spin freely, you need to either rebuild or replace the pump motor.

The @ username is a tag. it alerts that user that someone mentioned them so they will see the post. There is a recent post on the Hot Springs Moto-Massage that has some troubleshooting steps and links. For some reason I can't link the thread due to some site security rules.

Actually the question was for @ratchett as he has fixed the Motomassage unit on his tub. Sorry for the confusion.

The temp increase is probably due to heat from the pumps running. It's probably a bad heater relay, stuck open. You can check for voltage when the tub is calling for heat using a multimeter. Relays are fairly inexpensive on Amazon and can be changed by anyone with electronic repair experience.

@ratchett Can you advise? I believe you mentioned that it's not a normal round hose but an oval one.

This is a year old thread, you probably will not get an answer. If you need assistance, please start a new thread and we can try to help you.

It's more likely the heater relays. You can check them with a multimeter to see if voltage is present when the tub is calling for hear. Relays can be changed by anyone who has electronics repair experience and are inexpensive to obtain from Amazon.

Calling @CanadianSpaTech our resident Gecko expert. I suspect it will be fine but will defer to him for a definitive answer.

Why? The more you mess with something, the better the likelihood of breaking something else. The OP should just simply find the leak and repair that.

Please post up your test numbers on the things I asked. You need a good test kit to keep tabs on your levels. A Taylor kit is what I recommend. We can then help you get things under control.

Well, that makes an update a lot harder, doesn't it.

You could retrofit a new Balboa pack and topside into the tub and probably a new heater as well. The question is what's the cost benefit vs work vs expected life span. You are probably looking around $1000 to do everything, not counting your time. What doesn't this tub have/do that a new one will have/do? A new tub with warranty is $10K+ but will be worry free for 3-5 years during the warranty period. It will, as you said, be exactly the configuration you want. The plus of repair is with the exception of the shell, plumbing and one motor, everything else will be new. The one motor and the plumbing is what's unknown and the risk. You also don't have to figure out how to get rid of it which is something you will have to do if you buy a new tub. I might be inclined to go for the updates and repairs on the current tub but I'm handy and have all the tools to do it. We can't make this decision for you, that's on you. I pointed out some pro's and con's of each option and I'm sure others will as well. Good luck either way.

How much have you used the tub and how many gallons is it? Ozone will deplete your chlorine. What are your measurements on FC, CC, CYA, CH, PH and TA?

Usually you do need to put switch in test mode or option mode to get it to take.

Probably a bad topside controller. I would call the dealer and have then come replace it under warranty. J300 series have a 5 year warranty on the controls.

Pictures of the boards and of the wiring diagram please.

If the leak is all that's wrong with it, it's worth repair if you are handy.

Start your own thread. In it post up pictures of the spa pack with the LED statuses, the wiring diagram usually found on the inside cover and of the equipment area. What year and Model do you have? IQ2000 or IQ2020 controller? This is one of the reasons why we ask for a new thread.

Most 4-6 person tubs use about the same amount of power. Poorly insulated tube will use more than a well insulated tub. The Jacuzzi 200 series are not as well insulated as the J300 and J400 series. The R6 is a decent tub. CalSpa can be decent depending on the model and I don't know anything about the Trevi.

Swap pump 1 and 2, see if the problem follows pump 2 or if the relocated pump 1 is now failed. This will tell you if it's the board or the pump.

Most flow switches read 0 ohms when closed and infinite ohms when open.

Probably a stuck relay. Do you have a multimeter and if so, know how to use it? Post up pictures of the spa pack, the wiring diagram usually found on the inside of the cover and of the equipment area. Relays are a common failure point. They are not expensive and can be replaced if you can solder. If not, a decent electronics repair shop can change them out.

Please start a new thread. This one is 7 years old. In your new thread, post up pictures of the spa pack, the wiring diagram usually found on the inside cover and of the equipment area. The 30A breaker on a Watkins tub is usually the heater breaker. It could be a faulty heater and it could also be the breaker itself.

Amazon has many 16uf 450V capacitors for less than the Artic replacement. Any 16uf 450V capacitor will work. https://www.amazon.com/CBB60-Polypropylene-Coated-Motor-Capacitor/dp/B084RQYKKX/ref=sr_1_4?crid=24R62WAS89MGJ&keywords=16uf+motor+capacitor&qid=1658496120&s=automotive&sprefix=16uf+motor+capacitor%2Cautomotive%2C84&sr=1-4

Post up some pictures of the equipment area. Also of the spa pack and the wiring diagram on the inside cover.