Leaderboard

OK, I think I found it and holy crap, someone is really proud of that assembly. Looks like it's from an Emerald Spa and yes, Hot Tub Outpost has it for $176 https://www.hottuboutpost.com/emerald-spa-point-led-for-lighting-system-no-plastic/ I would explore the electronics guy. IMHO, that's an outrageous price. Ebay UK has it for 67 pounds to the US.

It would help to know who's hot tub it is. There are many places to get Spa repair parts if you know who made the tub. Is the LED out? That doesn't look that hard to DIY. It's just an RJ11 telephone cable with an LED connected to the end. Looks like there may be a circuit board that the LED is soldered to and that's probably had a dropping resistor on it. It's most likely a broken wire or a bad solder joint. It could also be the LED. None of this is difficult to repair if you can solder. If you can't, an electronics repair guy could fab one up fairly cheap.

In my state, the homeowner is allowed to do electrical work in his premise but a permit for add/modify is needed (legally) . In my case, I know the inspector personally so I did pull a permit and had him come over and inspect things. Like @RDspaguysaid, this covers me insurance wise and legally as far as my county is concerned.

They're a real company but one I would personally avoid. Sold them years ago at my previous job. The lower end products were not bad for the money but they lose their luster as the price increases because the quality doesn't match up with the price. Plus the company will screw the dealer every way possible when there is a warranty claim which is why you don't see a lot of dealers for them and rarely ever see a dealer who has been with the company long term.

There's the catch. In some places the homeowner is permitted to do this type of work on their own home, but in others you have to get a licensed electrician. As this can affect your occupancy permit and interfere with the sale of your home, as well as potentially cause the denial of any insurance claim resulting from this work, I would recommend you check with your municipality and insurance carrier.

Your pictures are also unavailable to me and I'm on my PC. Might be your format. Try hosting them on something like Imgur and use the BB links they create.

To avoid voiding the warranty, about all you can do it make sure all the connections on the spa pack board are tight and connectors are fully seated. Other than that, you are at the dealers mercy, which is why we say you need to have a good dealer. In some cases, a few hours wait isn't really all that bad depending on the size of the dealer. Larger dealers usually have more staff to handle these things while a smaller dealer may only have a couple of service guys and they may also double as installers, which can delay response times.

My 1988 CalSpa is still operating.

No such thing as a free spa. How? Sounds like a bad pump or electrical issue. Uh-oh. I assume you mean the air controls? Again, assume you mean air controls? Could be the wrong voltage or hp pump. Have you checked? Please explain what this means. For starters, check the hp and voltage of the pump and compare with the old. Then check that the board is switching it on and off as it should. A stuck low speed relay will run constantly in low and trip breakers, blow fuses, and burn up motors in high. Post pics of circuit board, wiring diagram, and equipment area.

Way too high. You want 30ppm, no more than 50ppm. Strips are notoriously unreliable, get a Taylor test kit. Recommend Ahhsome. Oh yuck did poorly in testing. Do you have ozone or uv? If so, it's working. Stop trying to maintain a residual with equipment made to remove the residual.

Is the breaker box also your Spa disconnect? I suspect yes, but need to make sure. You most likely have seal tight going from the box to the tubs spa pack. This will need to be either replaced or add a coupler and extend it with more seal tight. It's probably easier to buy new seal tight and salvage the fittings. You can't splice the power wires in the seal tight but you could add a weatherproof 4x4 box and splice in that if you can mount it someplace. How I would do this is buy the required seal tight to replace the run to the new location, buy enough 6-3 romex to go from the panel to the spa pack and wire it up. All of this is available at Lowes. Can you do this yourself? Yes, if you know what you are doing. If you are not comfortable working with 220V, hire an electrician. It's actually a small job, which might make it harder to get someone and shouldn't cost more than $200-$300 bucks (depending on how much wire/seal tight you need). I ran all my own electric and my install required a 60' run from the main panel (where the 60A GFCI is) to the spa disconnect and then 20' of seal tight from the disconnect to the spa pack. I'm very comfortable with household wiring so it was no big deal. It's all to code and inspected.

Ahhh The old Canadian made Polar Spa. Went out of business about 10 years ago now. There is a guy in Alberta that has the Polar Spa name but that's about all so finding a manual might be hard. Not much useful information in them any way. Start by removing filters and run without until we get the other issues fixed. Disconnect the ozone until we get the other issues fixed first When it shuts off does it trip the GFCI breaker in the panel? Just before the pump shuts off does it make a buzzing/humming sound? Might be locked up/seized. (My Guess) Let us know and we can go on to the next step.

Hi TMC: One way to help eliminate the goo that is adhering to the shell is to mix some baking soda into a paste and place it in a small area at a time. Let is stand for 10 minutes and them take an old towel and soak it in white vinegar. Rub the area where the baking soda was placed. This will definitely help you out. People have no idea just how sticky this gunk is. Polysaccharides contribute to this because it is a bunch of sugar molecules. Please let the forum know how it works for you.