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Nice way to get around legislation. "Dead Sea Salt" has a very high bromide content!! It will still be a bromine tub! https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s12517-016-2431-9

I also just looked at your pic and between the capacity and the frequency I see 165VAC, so your original is "130-154 µF 165VAC 60Hz", the cap in the link I posted is fine, or almost anything else that you find that meets or exceeds these specs.

so final update (i hope) on the motor(s). so we rather enjoyed the hot tub the other night. sadly i turned it off knowing that it wouldn't turn on without help which i tried after i turned it off and of course was the case. so next day, me being me, I decide to pull the motor out again. Just to be 100% sure, I found a neighbor who has a capacitor tester (i'll get one but needed one now). All THREE capacitor's tested fine and within spec. So I regret I didn't take pictures of this but will try to describe this. So the start capacitor's job is to give a jolt to the motor to get it going, once the motor is going it needs to jump out of circuit because if it gets continous charge it will burn up/out. The way this is accomplished is generally the same in electric motors, a contact is made at rest. Once the motor starts spinning the centrifugal force is applied via a switch to disconnect the circuit. Thing is in my head I know an electric motor is a very simple heavy duty beast. Capacitor's wear out, bearings might need replaced but the rest almost never wears out. So tearing the motor apart. There is a copper disk, and a v shaped copper plate on a spring that makes contact with it. when the motor gets spinning the switch makes it lose contact. So I did two things. I first off cleaned the contact areas up very gently with my trusty fingernail and paper (i kid you not) u don't want to use sandpaper here to abrasive. I then made triple sure that when I re-assembled the motor that it was in contact with this disk as if you are not careful you can make it so this doesn't happen. So I'm on my bench, first test at 110v i flip the switch and motor instantly starts up! Second+ tests it doesn't start. BUT I tell myself this is exactly what the good motor did it fired up one time and never again. So then I go out to my spa with the motor (wet end is not attached) and plug it into the spa panel so I can give it the proper voltage. It fires right up, both low and high work. I turned it off and on 4 times worked each time. So tomorrow I'm putting it back in the tub and I think I'm in business now. thx everyone for the help/tips and I hope this thread helps someone else.

Oh No! we certainly don't want people to understand basic water chemistry! If they did a lot of the hype and misinformation by the chemical manufacturers would be exposed! Anyone care to by some very expensive baking soda to raise your total alkalinity? We can justify the high price by calling it by an alternate name, sodium hydrogen carbonate instead of sodium bicarbonate to try and make you think they are not the same! " Sodium bicarbonate (IUPAC name: sodium hydrogen carbonate), commonly known as baking soda (especially in North America and New Zealand) or bicarbonate of soda, is a chemical compound with the formula NaHCO3 " https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_bicarbonate

It's definitely flat. We had the pavers installed and my guess is that the area is sloped ever so slightly to promote flow into the drain. I guess I just never noticed it before. The pavers sit on top of the old slab for the previous hot tub, and that was perfectly level as I checked it before they laid the pavers. Best part is the drain is literally a foot from the hot tubs drain port. No hose or mess. Thanks everyone.

Two words, Redox potential Both chlorate and chlorite ions have a MUCH lower redox potential compared to hypochlorite ions so they are not as effective as oxidizing agents. Chlorite ions have a redox potential that is about half that of hypochlorite ions and chlorate ions are even lower. "Table 1. Physical and chemical properties of commonly used disinfectants and inorganic disinfectant by-productsChemicalaEo (V)bOxidation number of Cl or Br8max (nm)ce (mol–1 litre–1 cm–1)dp,oepKafHOCl/Cl–+1.49+1254292 (OCl–)60419+25.27.5ClO2/ClO2–+0.95+43591250+16.1–NH2Cl–+1245416––O3/O2+2.07–2543200+35.0HOBr/Br–+1.33+133050+22.58.7ClO2–/Cl–+0.76+3262–+12.81.96ClO3–/Cl–+0.62+5360–+10.51.45BrO3–/Br–+0.61+5195–0.72aHalf-cell reactants/products.bEo = standard electrode potential (redox potential) in water at 25 °C. The oxidation–reduction state of an aqueous environment at equilibrium can be statedin terms of its redox potential. In the chemistry literature, this is generally expressed in volts,E, or as the negative logarithm of the electron activity, p,. Whenp, is large, the electron activity is low and the system tends to be an oxidizing one: i.e., half-reactions tend to be driven to the left. When p, is small, thesystem is reducing, and reactions tend to be driven to the right.c8max = maximum absorbance wavelength of that particular solution in nm.de = molar absorptivity (molar extinction coefficient), in mol–1 litre–1 cm–1. This can be used for quantitative determination of the various species of chemicalsand is the only direct physical measurement. There is often some background absorbance that may interfere with the measurement in natural waters thatshould be considered.ep,o = ! log {e–} where {e–} = electron activity.fpKa = negative logarithm of the acid ionization constant (e.g., at pH 7.5, the molar concentration of HOCl is same as that of OCl–). As this parameter isdependent upon temperature, the values listed were determimined at 25 °C" Table on page 29 https://www.who.int/ipcs/publications/ehc/216_disinfectants_part_2.pdf?

You were right about everything but this... Good job! Hope it works out. 👍

I think some motors aren't worth rebuilding...🥺

In a word, no. "The comparative rate and efficiency of ClO4(-) production is generally greater for higher oxidation states of Cl (2.7 to 0.5% for ClO2(-)/ClO2 and 0.02 to 0.005% for OCl(-)/HOCl oxidation) with the notable exception of ClO3(-) which does not react with O3. " https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/20345093/

The vendor pointed me to this one linked below. He said he doesn't know the size but I looked up the model number I saw in the picture and it looks to be 2" tall and 1 7/16 diameter which should be perfect. A little shorter than the original which will be better because it's a tight squeeze in the motor. Thanks Again @PNW Soaker! https://www.suppliesdepot.com/buy/product/130-156-MFD-165V-START-CAPACITOR/121512?text=130-156+mfd https://www.packardonline.com/products/psmj130/

I've had my CalSpa on my back patio since 1988. After seeing this topic I took my level to the spa, and it is not perfectly level. Patios are typically not perfectly level, slope away from the house slightly.

Sodium bromide granules used in conjunction with a "Bromine Generator" or salt system has been banned in Canada. Most systems being offered in Canada now are using "Dead Sea Salt" instead. https://www.canada.ca/en/health-canada/services/consumer-product-safety/reports-publications/pesticides-pest-management/decisions-updates/reevaluation-decision/2018/sodium-bromide.html

I read on these boards that some tubs are intentionally not consistent side to side so you can put it on a sloped slab and have it "even out".

I wouldn't do the roof, it's really nice to see and be under the night sky while having a soak. Actually there are two things someone told me before I got my tub that I whole heatedly agree with now - see the sky, put it as close as possible to your house door.

You just have to make sure the new is rated at or above this one, your tub is probably 220v right? So 140-154 micro farad, 220v (or anything higher). This one can do 330V, 5 bucks. https://www.suppliesdepot.com/buy/product/130-158-MFD-330V-START-CAPACITOR/121536?ID=/Heating-Cooling/Parts-By-Manufacturer/Goodman/Capacitors/dept-263 Looks like these are called "start" capacitors, go figure.

Do you think this capacitor might cause a ground fault 😂🤣

Pretty sure those are used as hand-grips to help move yourself into position.

That’s what I assumed. It must not be level. Not a big deal. It’s flat though.