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PNW Soaker

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About PNW Soaker

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  1. Oh really, well I have a semi-recent order number I can ask them and see...
  2. I can't 100% remember but my Strong Spa came with a 3rd party cover from Florida. I remember this because I didn't expect a second box with a different brand and origin on it. Looking up affordable spa covers just now I'm pretty sure it was from them. So they may be the Strong Spa original supplier.
  3. You should have the temp set below the current water temperature (i.e. not heating), and have the pump running for a minute or two. Then cut power and test the resistance values. This will ensure there was good flow through the heater and one side is not hotter than the other. Provided you do this - your ohms should be very close, within .1 on your meter (even .44 is too far apart, that's almost 2 degrees).
  4. I just used ahh-some last week, it really works fantastically but I have to echo the advice to clean the deposits right away when it's purging. I put the stuff in and ran the jets it immediately foamed like crazy, no big deal, says so on the label. After 15 min or so the foaming is decreasing and I start seeing the water line accumulating a lot of sticky slime. At that point I should have started wiping it off but I waited another 15 min and started draining the water before getting to the wiping. Big mistake, it was really tough to get off by then, and I ended up using a scouring pad and a ho
  5. There are two RJ45 ports on the main board to plug your topside controller into, perhaps try the other one? If that's no good turn off the power unplug the topside and plug in the power. I think you should get the usual startup sequence. 5 min priming followed by the pump running to check the temp. You could use a multimeter on the topside and/or RJ45 ports too to check for shorts.
  6. FWIW you can also get OH if you short the sensor wire (no resistance). So check with multimeter to make sure your plug and sensor wires are not shorting anywhere.
  7. Given this is a Balboa board, "Sn" is sensor sync (as opposed to say Sa or Sb where sensor connection is faulty or disconnected). Your resistance values are not agreeing with eachother, if your multimeter has good accuracy you should probably be able to diagnose this yourself, like RDsapguy says, they have to be within a few hundred ohms. The balboa VS spa packs have 2 sensors one inlet one outlet on the heater and no hi-limit. *Edit* also the "Sn" usually comes up at lower temps where the ohms change more per degree than at higher temps. So for me when I had bad resistance values
  8. Yea you have to support the entire bottom because you don't really know where the load is being carried, it depends on the spa shell shape etc.
  9. Why not replace the hi-limit sensor then? You can check it with a multimeter as well if you don't want to buy one before you know it's bad.
  10. Yea ozone will create chlorate or bromate, and in Canada it is becoming law that the ozone generators say "do not use with bromine/bromide products" or something like that because of the health effects of bromate. (that's at least my understanding, could be wrong)
  11. Open the access area for the heater and pump etc and look there for a manufacturer placard.
  12. I read on these boards that some tubs are intentionally not consistent side to side so you can put it on a sloped slab and have it "even out".
  13. I think your idea is great, and I think 3/4 gravel that has been tamped every 2 inches is going to be pretty darn good at distributing the load and providing a base on top of those old pavers. Some smaller stone is probably a good idea for the top layer to make sure it's flat. Level is not a problem it's how flat the surface is, you don't want and high spots or ridges causing the tub to deflect.
  14. I wouldn't do the roof, it's really nice to see and be under the night sky while having a soak. Actually there are two things someone told me before I got my tub that I whole heatedly agree with now - see the sky, put it as close as possible to your house door.
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