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Pump problems


Tkbad

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I am running and older Aruba spa last year I replaced the circuit board and this summer the 240v 2 speed pump melted itself together I purchased a new pump and installed it now when I turn the breaker on it turns on low speed for 15-20 seconds then shuts off after some time it does the same thing over again I have tested the power coming too the tub crossing the leads and it’s 240v I test the leads at the pump cross them and it reads 000 but if I check each lead on the pump separately it gives me 120 I had two relays on the circuit board replaced and still nothing when the other ump kicks on low it sounds like it’s starving for power or pulsing then it comes out of it but still stays on low I got the pump button but nothing happens thanks for all your help

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2 hours ago, Tkbad said:

test the leads at the pump cross them and it reads 000 but if I check each lead on the pump separately it gives me 120 I

Not sure I understand. The pump has a red (usually high speed) black (usually low speed) and white (common) wire, plus a green ground. Testing from black to red will give you 0, and with pump connected you will get voltage from red or black to white regardless of which speed is on. 

What you describe sounds like an improper voltage or wiring on the pump. Post pics of circuit board, wiring diagram, and equipment area. Also the pump voltage and wiring.

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The first two and the pump leads off the board the next two are the volt readings from the black and red wire too ground and the other reading is between the red and black the others are of the back of the pump and the start capacitor and the last one is the pump diagram not when I turn the pump on it kicks on but sounds like it has a super heavy load on the motor Boggs right down like it’s starving for power and then comes out of it and runs for a few seconds and quits 

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18 hours ago, Tkbad said:

are the volt readings from the black and red wire too ground

Don't test to ground. Ground has no part in an ac circuit, it is a safety conductor. Test to the common (white) wire from the pump. The motor is 230v, so a 120v reading here is a voltage problem. This would cause the problem you describe.

If voltage is 230v, turn off power and disconnect pump wires from the board. Turn back on and test from low to common connection and then high to common, with jet button set first for low speed, then high speed. Only one speed should have power at a time. A stuck relay (caused by or the cause of the other pump "melting") will cause the problem you describe. If you leave the pump connected you will read voltage on both speeds at once, so disconnect it first then test at the board.

The other possibility is a faulty centrifugal switch or start switch in the motor, or something lodged in the impeller, or bad bearings. 

So narrow it down and post results. Also...

On 11/8/2021 at 9:00 PM, RDspaguy said:

Post pics of circuit board, wiring diagram, and equipment area.

So we can see what you've got and how it's wired. A good pic of the whole circuit board is helpful. Wiring diagram is often on the box cover or in a little bag on the side or back of the box.

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On 11/8/2021 at 11:00 PM, RDspaguy said:

Not sure I understand. The pump has a red (usually high speed) black (usually low speed) and white (common) wire, plus a green ground. Testing from black to red will give you 0, and with pump connected you will get voltage from red or black to white regardless of which speed is on. 

What you describe sounds like an improper voltage or wiring on the pump. Post pics of circuit board, wiring diagram, and equipment area. Also the pump voltage and wiring.

I did the test you said tested from the low to the common and the high too the common when o do while the tube is running the high reads 123 Volta and the low reads 20 Volts at the same time I click the pump button too kick it too high speed and the relay clicks right back off tried it with the pump hooked up and in hooked and got the same readings when the pump turns on. It’s like it’s fighting it’s self like the power is drawing the pump slows down below are picture of the board and the whole cabinet it dosent have a wiring diagram but the circuit board is a mini max  1503d75b

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https://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/52385-desparate-for-help-hot-tub-acting-strange/

Long post and I didn't read back through it but you might find something useful within.

I see the incoming white and red screws that hold the wire in place are darkened. You might want to remove the board and have a look on the back for a burnt area. You also mention melting a pump so again pulling the board and looking on the back might save a lot of diagnostic time. If you do find a burnt relay post photos and will tell you if it is repairable. Let us know results

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10 hours ago, CanadianSpaTech said:

Good eye RDspaguy. 

OP... remove the board and look on the back. 

The burning on the main terminal is from me trying too jump the pump direct from the power source and when it kicked in it was back feed from some where’s 

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1 hour ago, Tkbad said:

The burning on the main terminal is from me trying too jump the pump direct from the power source and when it kicked in it was back feed from some where’s 

I moved the white pump wire from the j14 lead too the j25 lead and nothing happened but then I moved it too the j32 lead and it jumped too life pump is running and the heater has 120 volts going through it the j32 lead is in the l2 side does that mean the l1 side has a problem with it 

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Sorry I don't see a j32. I'm still pulling the board and looking on the back for burn marks. You can try and diagnose all day but if there is a burnt up relay you are just spinning your wheels. Can see what looks like black soot on some of the wires and that is often an indicator of a burnt relay.

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On 11/14/2021 at 8:18 AM, CanadianSpaTech said:
On 11/15/2021 at 8:46 AM, CanadianSpaTech said:

Sorry I don't see a j32. I'm still pulling the board and looking on the back for burn marks. You can try and diagnose all day but if there is a burnt up relay you are just spinning your wheels. Can see what looks like black soot on some of the wires and that is often an indicator of a burnt relay.

Problem is solved it ended up being a broken power strip in the circuit board under two of the relays an electronics place in town was able too fix it for 20 bucks and we are back up and running pump has 240 and the heater has 240 that you guys for all you help 

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