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wpatters1229

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About wpatters1229

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  1. I used Jetted Tub Cleaner Easy, Safe, Concentrated Self Cleaning Bath Tub Jet and Plumbing System Cleaner for Your Hot Tub, Whirlpool, Spa, or Jacuzzi Since it was cheaper than Awe-some. I used the whole bottle. I was going to use Awe-some later when I get some money as it is $32 for 2oz. What is the procedure for changing? It maybe worth a try.
  2. I just purged the hot tub and found that afterwards the smell was no longer there. I have been using the Sundance chemical process for 15 years and had never purged the system other than draining water every 3 months. I just used a purge chemical. Not that much gunk came out but the water smell is now gone. Thanks
  3. I have always hated the back lighted control panel on our Sundance spa. It is year 2005 Capri. The back lighting is so dim that I have to keep a small flash light next to it so I can read the panel. Is there a simple way to increase that light or I just have to deal with it?
  4. Just want to say thanks to everyone who helped me. The advice saved me a bunch of $$$ and got this old tub back working. With the cold weather coming it will help my old bones!! Again THANKS ALL.
  5. https://hottubpartsofamerica.com/search.php?search_query=relays Look at the relay you have (take a picture with your phone) and look it up. They are fast in delivery too!!
  6. OK got the relay today and when I remove the board I noticed one of the leads that goes to the relay 240 v side was loose...probably from heat. There was no burnt looking area. I replaced the relay and now the heater is getting voltage through that relay. I cracked open the relay...the plastic was rather brittle. I have attached a picture as good as it can get from my phone and the contacts inside are pretty charred. Not surprising. Hope this project is over. The hardest part was getting the screws back into the board without dropping them. Next time....hopefully not, I will use my mag
  7. Thanks...I know also the capacitors can still hold a charge. Used to work on TV's...the old ones with vacumn tubes...and the high voltage could still be held in the Screen and you'd forget and get nailed by the connector on the side of the glass screen. Used to have to ground the connector to the chassis to blead that charge off. I ordered the relay and am going to pull the board and replace just the one and see how it goes. Hey, if nothing else it gives me a project while we all wait for the virus to leave us alone...which like the flu will really never happen but maybe they will ge
  8. Thank you for your time. I am going to order a new relay and put it in K1. Should be a few days. Is there any trick other than taking pictures of the board and wiring that you advise when removing all the connections? I do that with complex auto repairs. I do have a print out of the wiring diagram too. Cheers!!
  9. It actually heated fine. I was just impatient since it was at 86 and took 30 mins to get to 87 but then about 4 hrs later it was at 110. I will see how doing one goes as I am sure they do not take electronics back after purchased. Thanks for the advice...I know I am probable a pain.
  10. OK it is now up to 110 and OH is on. So the heater is fine and I put the wiring back to default and the K1 relay is still off. So I am pretty sure that is the bad guy. Will order one and install. Thanks.
  11. OK I know this is going back and forth and the result is probable going to be the same but I like to know why. I went to relay K1 which I do not know what controls it but it was not closed and I did drill a small hole in the top and spayed cleaner in just to satisfy my nature. Did not work as you have said. I then just pulled off the crossover cable and took the black side of the 230v and went to the input side of the center (K2) relay which was suppose to be open until the temp goes below the set value. That worked and the heater was then getting voltage. Does not seem like t
  12. Well I am that electronics guy so what you suggest is to replace all three relays. That makes sense. My concern is after 15yrs other parts could also be going bad. Just that a new board, 6600-730 is $686 on Amazon. UGH! I think messing with the three relays is my next move. Thanks
  13. I see that the board P/N 6600-092 is no long available and changed to 6600-730. Do you know what the change is? Maybe they have fixed this problem. I have to say that having it last 15yrs is not a problem if I do replace the board. At 74 yrs old I am not sure 15 more yrs is a problem. Boards are $320 on eBay from a guy who re-conditions them. I just need to find out if he replaces the relays when doing that. He guarantees them and says they are fully tested since he does not like returns. Thanks again.
  14. Yes I need to do that and look to see if there are burns. Would be cool if the covers did pop off. If they did I could play and see if the relays are stuck or not getting voltage to activate the relay. That is my other fear is that something on the board is not signaling the relay. I guess a not so cheap guy would just buy a new board and replace the whole thing. I am the guy who wants to know why things fail and is there a way to fix them. Guess it was my upbringing not having any money and if you could not fix it you did without. I have asked the question with the people who sell the
  15. One thing I wanted to try and actually sent a message to a company that sells the relays, is where to drill a small hole to spray contact cleaner inside the relay to see if that would possible help...then put a drop of silicone over the hole. Nothing to lose if it does not work. With both relays not working right makes me wonder if the board is bad.
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