Nitro's Approach To Water Maintaince

[bdwoods]

I just purchased some bleach from the store today. It is No-Name brand here in Canada from The Superstore. It is 6% Sodium Hypochlorite Ultra Unscented Bleach.......the question I have is that it has a bit of a yellow color to it. Is this okay to use??

Also, my CYA measured at 100ppm today.....I know, too much Diclor........how can I lower it other than a partial drain?

Thanks,

Steve aka SAFASTRO

Canadian Tire has 5 Litre bottles of "Pool Shock" bleach - which are $4.97 or something. This may be a tiny bit more expensive than grocery store bleach, but it's 10.8%.

[PaulR]

Yellow is okay. The "liquid chlorine" I get at the pool store is also yellow.

The only practical way to lower CYA is by replacing water.

--paulr

[SAFASTRO]

Thanks for all your responses guys!

This forum ROCKS!!

I've been using the bleach method for a week now and love it. I have a Jacuzzi j-470........it's 410 Gal (or 1500 L)......what should be the proper amount for 1 person soaking for 1 hour.......I've been adding about 150 ml 1/2 hour before, and about 200ml after a soak. I add before because my Chlorine levels seems to be very low. I'm running ProClear and an ozonator.

[chem geek]

Thanks for all your responses guys!

This forum ROCKS!!

I've been using the bleach method for a week now and love it. I have a Jacuzzi j-470........it's 410 Gal (or 1500 L)......what should be the proper amount for 1 person soaking for 1 hour.......I've been adding about 150 ml 1/2 hour before, and about 200ml after a soak. I add before because my Chlorine levels seems to be very low. I'm running ProClear and an ozonator.

Roughly speaking it's 3-1/2 teaspoons (about 16 grams) of Dichlor or 5 fluid ounces (150 ml) of 6% bleach or 7 teaspoons (about 45 grams) of non-chlorine shock (MPS) for every person-hour of soaking at 100-104F temperature, and this is independent of spa size. However, you should add whatever amount is needed to measure at least a small residual FC before the next soak the next day (if you don't soak every day, then there is still daily chlorine usage, but it's lower).

It sounds like you are using more bleach so perhaps the ozonator is breaking down chlorine or outgassing more chlorine or you sweat more than average or are dirtier getting in the tub. See what your Chlorine Demand (CD) is when not using the tub (i.e. go one day without using it, then measure the chlorine loss for the next 24 hours period). It should be around 25% of the FC level. If it's 50% or higher, then the ozonator may very well be using up your chlorine more quickly or you've got some contaminant in your tub doing so.

Richard

[SAFASTRO]

Hey Richard.......could it be because my CYA is @ 100ppm? I was using straight Dichlor for too long, so my CYA level went through the roof. I need to do a partial drain to lower it.

I don't think I'm a dirty guy, lol!

[chem geek]

Hey Richard.......could it be because my CYA is @ 100ppm? I was using straight Dichlor for too long, so my CYA level went through the roof. I need to do a partial drain to lower it.

I don't think I'm a dirty guy, lol!

A higher CYA would make the oxidation of bather waste take longer so you might see Combined Chlorine (CC) for a longer period of time or in the extreme case even build up to some level, but it shouldn't change the amount of chlorine needed to get to a Free Chlorine (FC) reading (in the long run). I suspect it's the ozonator as sometimes they end up consuming more chlorine than they save from oxidation of bather waste. Either that or the bleach you are using isn't as strong as you think, even tough it says it's 6%. You can try adding 1/4 teaspoon of this bleach to 2 gallons of clean water in a clean bucket and measure the FC level which should be about 10 ppm (measure a bucket of fresh water first since the fill water could have FC or CC in it).

[cr4fty.p5ych0]

Hi everyone,

I have read (and re-read) this post and find the information more than valuable. I actually found the procedure somewhat fun (playing chemist). Unfortunately I did not find out about the Dichlor/Bleach method until about 1 week after my initial fill. Nevertheless I was determined to try it, bought the test kit and have been "experimenting". All in all I believe the water is very close to balanced but I am eating through chlorine (6% Chlorox Bleach) like it is going out of style. I can raise the FC to 6ppm at night and it is 0 by 12pm the next day.

Now...I am in Vegas and the temps have been 100+. Temp on tub set to 99 and when I open the lid at noon it is already 102. I DO have an ozonator that is programed to run 24/7 but it is not working properly (another story) and has NOT been running much at all. I also have the Nature 2 stick and was hoping for clarification on how that may (if at all) affect things. My readings are:

PH 7.6.7.8

CH 240

TA 90

CYA - About 30??? the black dot test SUX

Tub is 475 Gallons @ 100 degrees

I have not experimented with borates as I have yet to acquire a test kit for it and would like to know what to plug into the calculator as a prefered ppm. I did purchase some "Spa Perfect" but do not know if it is comparable to "Gentle Spa" and have NOT used it. I can not find out if it contains borates or not but it does say "PH Balanced".

I also purchase some "chlorine stabilizer" (conditioner) and was wondering since it is CYA if I can skip the dichlor on the next fill by calculating an exact CYA amount? In the interim does anybody have thoughts on perhaps adding the conditioner?

Even though I am chalking up the chlorine loss to heat, it may be low CYA or I could (doubt) have introduced something nasty into the spa. Assuming the later, can I just superchlorinate to "kill" it, and assuming the former are there any better CYA tests?

So, I'm hoping for some input from the fine folks here and look forward to receiving some replys. Thanks.

[chem geek]

You shouldn't be losing more than half the chlorine in one day if not in use and normally should have a loss more like 25-30%. You can try shocking to see if that gets rid of what's consuming the chlorine. The hot temps aren't it -- most people keep their tubs hot. If your ozonator was working, then it could cause more chlorine demand either from ozone oxidizing chlorine to chlorate or from the extra aeration having chlorine outgas faster.

[WATERISLAND]

6 Minutes in that chlorine chemical bath and your skin has absorbed as much chlorine that is equivalent 10 glasses of tap water. Plus all the related dry skin issues. No thanks especially with all that work of testing testing and more testing.

Here is what I have finally decided works for us.

ours is an indoor 7 person tub, it has a salt water generator (now disconnected)

Tried the Bromine thing "nah" to many variables - testing is continuas etc.

Will not use chlorine "we all know that its a carcinogen lets admit it"

Finally was told by a hot tub "specialist" to use Lithium, a very high chlorine base. However it will test zero within 1 hour of putting it into your tub 1tbs per day (after bathing) this we were told would be our solution. This s--- actually drove our ph onto the crazy scale we couldn't keep up with the sudden variations.

Also because it is indoors we have a fan running from the side vent to try to keep the temp. down as quite often it gets up to 103 - 104.

Now we have been looking into the peroxide solution for quite a while, but all the "experts" that had helped me so far kept claiming how bad it was going to be and blah blah blah.

We took the plunge last fall (6 months ago) I can tell everyone that this stuff is amazing.

1. I have not done a chemical analysis or home test since.

2. I add 1 litre per week (a cost of $7.00) and rinse out the filter.

3. The water is absolutely sparkling

4. Our skin is soooo soft My wife is amazed

5. We are in it EVERY night

6. No other chemicals like stabilizer, bubble burst, ph up, down.

7. Actual product name is Peroxysan.

Do not let the "experts tell you this is bad" try it,

[chem geek]

6 Minutes in that chlorine chemical bath and your skin has absorbed as much chlorine that is equivalent 10 glasses of tap water. Plus all the related dry skin issues. No thanks especially with all that work of testing testing and more testing.

:

Will not use chlorine "we all know that its a carcinogen lets admit it"

:

Now we have been looking into the peroxide solution for quite a while, but all the "experts" that had helped me so far kept claiming how bad it was going to be and blah blah blah.

:

7. Actual product name is Peroxysan.

Where in the heck do you get where 6 minutes in chlorinated water has your skin absorb as much as 10 glasses of tap water? First off, most people aren't soaking with high chlorine levels -- most typically start a soak with 1 ppm FC or less chlorine so it is pretty much gone during most of the soak and then they add chlorine right after the soak. Even for those that soak with 4 ppm FC and 30 ppm CYA, at 104F around 85% of the chlorine is attached to Cyanuric Acid (CYA) and NOT absorbed into the body (see this link, for example). With CYA in the water, the equivalent FC with no CYA is around 0.5 ppm at 104F (it's lower at lower temps). The small amount of active chlorine doesn't absorb into the body -- it reacts with ammonia in sweat very quickly and more slowly reacts with urea from sweat. Virtually all of the chlorine usage is accounted for by such sweat plus a much smaller amount that is outgassed (an order of magnitude less than found in a hot shower since there is no CYA in that case). Again, where are you getting this "10 glasses of tap water" statistic?

Chlorine itself isn't carcinogenic, but chlorine combined with certain organic compounds are. It sounds like you are just reading from one company's sales claims (i.e. this link). Virtually ALL of the studies showing issues with chlorine disinfection by-products are either with tap water or with pool or spa water that has no Cyanuric Acid (CYA) in it because most of the problems have been in indoor pools with no CYA. CYA acts a a chlorine buffer significantly reducing the active chlorine level and this significantly reduces chlorine's reaction rates and lowers the absolute amount of irritants such as nitrogen trichloride (some chemistry about this is here).

Hydrogen peroxide does not kill bacteria or inactivate viruses as quickly as chlorine, bromine or Baqua/biguanide/PHMB or even (at 100-104F) silver ion combined with non-chlorine shock (monopersulfate, MPS) unless you were to use levels (concentration) that would be very irritating to the skin. Hydrogen peroxide is used as a disinfectant only at high concentrations. It's only effective use in spa water is as an oxidizer which is why it is used as the oxidizer in Baqua/biguanide/PHMB spas where the latter is the disinfectant, NOT hydrogen peroxide. It cannot, however, be used as an oxidizer with chlorine or bromine since it hydrogen peroxide is also a reducing agent so will consume chlorine and bromine (in fact for this reason, it can be used as a chlorine/bromine neutralizer).

I'm glad it's working out so great for you, but please do not promote this for everyone else without telling them that the risk of getting hot tub itch from Pseudomonas aeruginosa bacteria is far higher using hydrogen peroxide alone rather than one of the only four EPA approved sanitizers for spas: chlorine, bromine, Baqua/biguanide/PHMB and silver ion with MPS (i.e. the "low chlorine" Nature2 recipe).

Richard

[Nitro]

6 Minutes in that chlorine chemical bath and your skin has absorbed as much chlorine that is equivalent 10 glasses of tap water. Plus all the related dry skin issues. No thanks especially with all that work of testing testing and more testing.

Here is what I have finally decided works for us.

ours is an indoor 7 person tub, it has a salt water generator (now disconnected)

Tried the Bromine thing "nah" to many variables - testing is continuas etc.

Will not use chlorine "we all know that its a carcinogen lets admit it"

Finally was told by a hot tub "specialist" to use Lithium, a very high chlorine base. However it will test zero within 1 hour of putting it into your tub 1tbs per day (after bathing) this we were told would be our solution. This s--- actually drove our ph onto the crazy scale we couldn't keep up with the sudden variations.

Also because it is indoors we have a fan running from the side vent to try to keep the temp. down as quite often it gets up to 103 - 104.

Now we have been looking into the peroxide solution for quite a while, but all the "experts" that had helped me so far kept claiming how bad it was going to be and blah blah blah.

We took the plunge last fall (6 months ago) I can tell everyone that this stuff is amazing.

1. I have not done a chemical analysis or home test since.

2. I add 1 litre per week (a cost of $7.00) and rinse out the filter.

3. The water is absolutely sparkling

4. Our skin is soooo soft My wife is amazed

5. We are in it EVERY night

6. No other chemicals like stabilizer, bubble burst, ph up, down.

7. Actual product name is Peroxysan.

Do not let the "experts tell you this is bad" try it,

Anyone, who wants to try using only hydogen peroxide as a sanitizer be warned, you will be at risk of getting a nasty bactera infection.

Sounds like this poster is a sales person for "Peroxysan". SPAM

[cr4fty.p5ych0]

6 Minutes in that chlorine chemical bath and your skin has absorbed as much chlorine that is equivalent 10 glasses of tap water. Plus all the related dry skin issues. No thanks especially with all that work of testing testing and more testing.

:

Will not use chlorine "we all know that its a carcinogen lets admit it"

:

Now we have been looking into the peroxide solution for quite a while, but all the "experts" that had helped me so far kept claiming how bad it was going to be and blah blah blah.

:

7. Actual product name is Peroxysan.

Where in the heck do you get where 6 minutes in chlorinated water has your skin absorb as much as 10 glasses of tap water? First off, most people aren't soaking with high chlorine levels -- most typically start a soak with 1 ppm FC or less chlorine so it is pretty much gone during most of the soak and then they add chlorine right after the soak. Even for those that soak with 4 ppm FC and 30 ppm CYA, at 104F around 85% of the chlorine is attached to Cyanuric Acid (CYA) and NOT absorbed into the body (see this link, for example). With CYA in the water, the equivalent FC with no CYA is around 0.5 ppm at 104F (it's lower at lower temps). The small amount of active chlorine doesn't absorb into the body -- it reacts with ammonia in sweat very quickly and more slowly reacts with urea from sweat. Virtually all of the chlorine usage is accounted for by such sweat plus a much smaller amount that is outgassed (an order of magnitude less than found in a hot shower since there is no CYA in that case). Again, where are you getting this "10 glasses of tap water" statistic?

Chlorine itself isn't carcinogenic, but chlorine combined with certain organic compounds are. It sounds like you are just reading from one company's sales claims (i.e. this link). Virtually ALL of the studies showing issues with chlorine disinfection by-products are either with tap water or with pool or spa water that has no Cyanuric Acid (CYA) in it because most of the problems have been in indoor pools with no CYA. CYA acts a a chlorine buffer significantly reducing the active chlorine level and this significantly reduces chlorine's reaction rates and lowers the absolute amount of irritants such as nitrogen trichloride (some chemistry about this is here).

Hydrogen peroxide does not kill bacteria or inactivate viruses as quickly as chlorine, bromine or Baqua/biguanide/PHMB or even (at 100-104F) silver ion combined with non-chlorine shock (monopersulfate, MPS) unless you were to use levels (concentration) that would be very irritating to the skin. Hydrogen peroxide is used as a disinfectant only at high concentrations. It's only effective use in spa water is as an oxidizer which is why it is used as the oxidizer in Baqua/biguanide/PHMB spas where the latter is the disinfectant, NOT hydrogen peroxide. It cannot, however, be used as an oxidizer with chlorine or bromine since it hydrogen peroxide is also a reducing agent so will consume chlorine and bromine (in fact for this reason, it can be used as a chlorine/bromine neutralizer).

I'm glad it's working out so great for you, but please do not promote this for everyone else without telling them that the risk of getting hot tub itch from Pseudomonas aeruginosa bacteria is far higher using hydrogen peroxide alone rather than one of the only four EPA approved sanitizers for spas: chlorine, bromine, Baqua/biguanide/PHMB and silver ion with MPS (i.e. the "low chlorine" Nature2 recipe).

Richard

Richard,

Sort of a hijack on your post above as I am SOLD on the dichlor/bleach method. I agree with Nitro this guy sounds like a salesman and can be ignored. In any case I posted awhile back about my shrinking chlorine levels which have now somewhat stabilized ...I look forward to trying the method with a fresh fill so I can get a better idea on actual CYA levels.

Either way I asked in that prior post how using a Nature2 stick affects the plan and assumed it did NOT when you didn't comment. That was until your post which sounds like Nature2 is a different system all together. My water is clear, my PH and TA are good and generally I'm a happy camper. But what say you about my use of the Nature2 in combination with dichlor/bleach? Can I assume that a lower FC reading is ok since I am using the Silver? And, does the Nature2 allow you to use MPS to generate Free chlorine even it the TC is NOT there? My FC and TC readings have been almost identical for about three weeks now and I am strictly using bleach.

Bottom line......any "education" you can provide re: Nature2 would be most appreciated.

Thanks,

Craig

[chem geek]

Richard,

Sort of a hijack on your post above as I am SOLD on the dichlor/bleach method. I agree with Nitro this guy sounds like a salesman and can be ignored. In any case I posted awhile back about my shrinking chlorine levels which have now somewhat stabilized ...I look forward to trying the method with a fresh fill so I can get a better idea on actual CYA levels.

Either way I asked in that prior post how using a Nature2 stick affects the plan and assumed it did NOT when you didn't comment. That was until your post which sounds like Nature2 is a different system all together. My water is clear, my PH and TA are good and generally I'm a happy camper. But what say you about my use of the Nature2 in combination with dichlor/bleach? Can I assume that a lower FC reading is ok since I am using the Silver? And, does the Nature2 allow you to use MPS to generate Free chlorine even it the TC is NOT there? My FC and TC readings have been almost identical for about three weeks now and I am strictly using bleach.

Bottom line......any "education" you can provide re: Nature2 would be most appreciated.

Thanks,

Craig

Craig,

Didn't mean to scare or confuse you regarding Nature2 and sorry I didn't answer you earlier (I must have missed it). Anyway, you should look at Nature2 as a fallback or insurance policy, but it's the Dichlor/bleach that does the heavy lifting for both oxidation and sanitation. The Nature2 won't oxidize any bather waste at all. As for disinfection, it will do two things: 1) if your chlorine level gets too low or to zero the metal ions provide a lot better protection than nothing at all and 2) if you use MPS then the silver+MPS will be about as effective as chlorine, if you use the relatively large amounts of MPS described in the Nature2 instructions.

So go ahead with Dichlor/bleach and just know that with Nature2 you've got an insurance policy in case you get a little lax (or if chlorine levels get to zero during a soak). You will, however, need to keep up with using the proper cumulative amount of bleach or else you won't be able to hold an FC if you get behind oxidizing bather waste. If you stay on top of things, your chlorine demand should remain fairly good until you are ready to change your water many months later.

Richard

[cr4fty.p5ych0]

Thanks Richard!

This is great information and certainly differs from the "set it and forget it" speech I got from the salesman

I'm glad I knew better and decided to try your method as my water is sparkling!

One last question if you don't mind.....How exacly does the ozonator fit into the picture? I have basically "forgotten" about it as well and just continue to add the bleach per FC tests. Recently my demand has been about 40% so I must be doing something right! From your prior post you indicated (or I assumed) that perhaps the ozonator could be detrimental to the method. Outgassing ETC.

I cannot seem to figure out my spa's "cleaning cycle" but this may be another topic. I have it programmed to run 24 hours but the ozonator (attached to the circ pump) comes on and off throughout the day. I do not see any pattern and thought perhaps it had a way of determining when ozone (cleaning?) was needed but this seems too "advanced" for the electronics. In any case does the ozone provide oxidation, sanitation, both or neither and once again should I make any adjustments or just use it as "insurance".

FYI...the only reason I chose 24 hours is because the circ pump also runs my waterfall and there is no on/off for it which I feel is pretty dumb. Either way its no help because sometimes we can be soaking and its still not on... so... no waterfall. Without contacting the manufacture to program something I don't think I can even turn the ozonator off without losing the waterfall. Oh well I may post this "issue" in the main area. Just curious about the "chem" ramifications for now.

Thanks again for your replys AND the wonderful method you have brought to us!!

Craig

[bart6453]

Richard,

Sort of a hijack on your post above as I am SOLD on the dichlor/bleach method. I agree with Nitro this guy sounds like a salesman and can be ignored. In any case I posted awhile back about my shrinking chlorine levels which have now somewhat stabilized ...I look forward to trying the method with a fresh fill so I can get a better idea on actual CYA levels.

Either way I asked in that prior post how using a Nature2 stick affects the plan and assumed it did NOT when you didn't comment. That was until your post which sounds like Nature2 is a different system all together. My water is clear, my PH and TA are good and generally I'm a happy camper. But what say you about my use of the Nature2 in combination with dichlor/bleach? Can I assume that a lower FC reading is ok since I am using the Silver? And, does the Nature2 allow you to use MPS to generate Free chlorine even it the TC is NOT there? My FC and TC readings have been almost identical for about three weeks now and I am strictly using bleach.

Bottom line......any "education" you can provide re: Nature2 would be most appreciated.

Thanks,

Craig

Craig,

Didn't mean to scare or confuse you regarding Nature2 and sorry I didn't answer you earlier (I must have missed it). Anyway, you should look at Nature2 as a fallback or insurance policy, but it's the Dichlor/bleach that does the heavy lifting for both oxidation and sanitation. The Nature2 won't oxidize any bather waste at all. As for disinfection, it will do two things: 1) if your chlorine level gets too low or to zero the metal ions provide a lot better protection than nothing at all and 2) if you use MPS then the silver+MPS will be about as effective as chlorine, if you use the relatively large amounts of MPS described in the Nature2 instructions.

So go ahead with Dichlor/bleach and just know that with Nature2 you've got an insurance policy in case you get a little lax (or if chlorine levels get to zero during a soak). You will, however, need to keep up with using the proper cumulative amount of bleach or else you won't be able to hold an FC if you get behind oxidizing bather waste. If you stay on top of things, your chlorine demand should remain fairly good until you are ready to change your water many months later.

Richard

This is what I have been doing....I just keep the nature 2 in there in case I screw up or forget...for $30 it's a pretty cheap insurance policy.

Wow...I really might have OCD about hot tub sanitation. Now that I think about it....there should be some kind of basic test required before one can purchase a tub. Kind of like a driver's license or something. I keep having flashbacks of all the grimy, crappy, stinky tubs I have seen...and now that I know much, much better from having my own...I notice them much, much more!

[Zirgalmnod]

Hi there

really helpful site, this is for a neewbie like myself. My native language is not english, so I am a little uncertain regarding what substance you are reffering to as "bleach". From what I understood so far this substance does the same job as Chlorine products without adding to the stabilizing aspects. Now, I would like to start using this "bleach" but I am not certain what i t really is, and what it is called where I live (Sweden, Europe).

[PaulR]

Bleach is a liquid commonly used in laundry to make clothes whiter. The active ingredient is sodium hypochlorite. For laundry purposes it is usually anywhere from 3% to 6%; pool stores may carry it in higher concentrations, up to 12.5%.

I found a web-based translator to swedish, it says bleach is "blekmedel."

--paulr

[notable17]

Ok, so my water tested out with a higher CH than is discussed in any examples. It came to 250. My TA is 230 and my PH out of the tap was 7.6. Question is, in order to reduce my TA to 80-100, my CSI is still .16 at 80ppm. In order to get close to 0, I have to set TA to 60 for my 450 gallon tub at a temp of 100. Is this too low? Thanks for any insights into this. BTW, my k-2006 should show up on Friday. I hope it helps.

-DG-

[chem geek]

If you use the Dichlor-then-bleach method, then a TA of 60 ppm (or even 50 ppm) is not too low, though I'd recommend using 50 ppm Borates to provide additional pH buffering without significantly affecting the saturation index.

[notable17]

If you use the Dichlor-then-bleach method, then a TA of 60 ppm (or even 50 ppm) is not too low, though I'd recommend using 50 ppm Borates to provide additional pH buffering without significantly affecting the saturation index.

Thanks. I tried to buy some Gentle Spa at the dealer/parts supplier yesterday, but he said he didn't have a chemical by that name. Any other name for it?

-DG-

[mcw53]

If you use the Dichlor-then-bleach method, then a TA of 60 ppm (or even 50 ppm) is not too low, though I'd recommend using 50 ppm Borates to provide additional pH buffering without significantly affecting the saturation index.

Thanks. I tried to buy some Gentle Spa at the dealer/parts supplier yesterday, but he said he didn't have a chemical by that name. Any other name for it?

-DG-

Gentle Spa is a product made by ProTeam. You can also use boric acid or 20 Mule Team Borax. If you use the borax, you will also have to add acid to compensate for the increase in pH and TA. See The Pool Calculator for quantities needed.

[hrustar]

Okay, I'm leaning towards this program again, but I need to know, what about things like Scale Defense or Metal Protector? Are those products BS? Also, would I still use Mineral Purifier cartridge in my filter? Lastly, if I read right, it seems dandy to use this program with a Ozone system.

Can anyone confirm or address my "extra" chemical questions?

[chem geek]

If you properly manage your spa water chemistry, especially the pH, Total Alkalinity (TA), and Calcium Hardness (CH), then you won't need any scale defense. That product would only be useful if your CH level in your fill water were extraordinarily high (> 300 ppm) since you will be lowering your TA level with the Dichlor-then-bleach system and the Borates will keep the pH from rising too quickly. The metal protector isn't needed unless you have metals in your fill water. Unless you are using well water, then I doubt you have many metals in your fill water. By metals, I mostly mean iron (there usually isn't copper in fill water).

Using ozone is a mixed bag. Ozone can consume chlorine so if you don't use the tub every day then the ozone can result in your needing to use more chlorine. If you use the tub every day and have higher bather load (longer soaks with more people), then the ozone can supplement the chlorine for oxidation so that you would use less chlorine. Generally speaking, ozone isn't ideal with using chlorine. It's generally better with bromine to reactivate bromide to bromine. For chlorine, an alternative or supplemental system that works well is Nature2 that can provide extra insurance if you don't maintain chlorine levels consistently, but this is not necessary and is extra cost.

[hrustar]

Excellent response Chem Geek, and very interesting. Thanks.

[drewskie]

sorry if it was asked in the plethora of other postings, but I am wondering if there is a start up procedure for this method. Meaning, I am filling my tub up this weekend after a long hiatus. I ran spa flush, about to do the chlorine shock, and drian. Then on Sat. fill up again. What do I do upon fillig it up? Just start to add the dechlor? Or is there another start up procedure? Thanks.