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About mcw53

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    Spa Savant

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  1. In my opinion, member dlleno is the expert on this forum regarding biofilm removal. He has done extensive testing of the effectiveness of various products. Based on his test results, I and many others on this forum have switched to Ahh-Some. This is his most recent post on the subject. Check out his blogs documenting his testing and results ... https://boisediesel.com/blog/2016/7/spa-purge https://boisediesel.com/blog/2016/7/purge2 https://boisediesel.com/blog/2019/5/purge-shootout-seaklear-silk-balance-ahhsome
  2. I clean my Hotspring ceramic filters with Trisodium Phosphate. I use 1 cup per 5 gallons of water and let them soak for a couple hours. The Chemistry Store sells TSP in bulk for less than $1.50/lb. https://www.chemistrystore.com/product.cgi?product=17927 Edit: Just noticed the original post is over 2 months old ... oh well, I hope this helps someone.
  3. Your insane chlorine demand is an indicator that you need to change your water. Read Nitro's post on Chlorine Demand and follow his Decontamination Procedure. I recommend using Ahh-Some and before draining the tub, super-chlorinate. This will save you 475 gallons of water. Don't add the boric acid until after you decontaminate, drain and refill. I have a 450 gallon spa and add 17.2oz of boric acid to get 50ppm borates. You might want to recheck your calculations. If you need to lower TA, follow Nitro's procedure for Lowering Total Alkalinity. You will need to aerate to bring your pH up to 7.4 to 7.6 (6.8 is much too acidic). Regarding mineral sticks (e.g. Nature2), I don't believe there is much benefit using them unless your'e using MPS instead of chlorine. As long as you keep your free chlorine from falling to zero for extended periods of time, there is no need to "shock". Hope this helps. https://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html
  4. Excellent test and analysis dlleno. I have be using SeaKlear System Flush for years, even before it was a SeaKlear product. I have been satisfied with the product since it always produced results. I will be switching over to Ahh-Some!
  5. Thanks. I am aware of Taylor's statement on shelf life and understand their point of view. Would it be unreasonable to expect a 2 or even 3 year shelf life for DPD Powder considering the storage conditions I stated in my original post?
  6. What is the shelf-life of Taylor DPD Powder? I'm needing to refill my suppy. Amato has this for $4.80/10g ($0.48/g) and $25.72/4oz ($0.23/g). The cost/use of the 4oz bottle is less than 1/2 that of the 10g bottle, but I am concerned about shelf-life as it will take me years to use the 4oz bottle. The 4oz bottle would be stored in ideal conditions and only opened to refill the bottle in my K-2006 test kit.
  7. Great! I purchased mine before I knew about this site. Another member recently posted this thread about purchasing the kit from this website. Let us know how it goes.
  8. I use the Taylor K-2006 test kit. The best price I've seen online is here. Boric acid is sold online in granular and powdered form. It is sold for many uses, just make sure it is 100% technical grade boric acid. For instance: here, here, here and here. Use The Pool Calculator for dosing.
  9. I also use Nature2 with the dichlor-then-bleach method. I am on the 6th month of my current fill and my water is clear and odorless. I replaced the Nature2 cartridge after 4 months as directed and because I did notice an increase in chlorine demand. The CD came down with the new cartridge installed. I use chem geek's rule-of-thumb of adding 5 fl oz of 6% bleach (Clorox Regular) per person-hour of soaking. I occasionally substitute SeaKlear Chlorine-Free Shock (45.2% MPS) for some of the bleach. The MPS is slightly acidic and counteracts the pH rise that normally is seen with the dichlor-then-bleach method. This allows me to keep my pH and TA on target without adding additional balancing chems. My pH has been between 7.4 and 7.6 and TA between 70 and 80 for the last 2 months with this method plus the addition of 1 tbsp sodium carbonate. We maintain 25-30 ppm CYA (with dichlor) and 50 ppm borates (with boric acid). Our tub has an ozonator and a 24/7 circulation pump. We have averaged 40 to 45 minutes soaking per day for the last 5 months.
  10. Not sure of your spa size, but the pool calculator shows 3 counces of sodium carbonate will raise pH by 1.86 and TA by 61 ppm in a 350 gallon spa. These are HUGH adjustments. What was your original and target pH?
  11. Chem geek's rule-of-thumb (add 5 ounces 6% bleach per 1 person-hour soak) works pretty good for me. The wife and I typically soak 20 minutes every night. That's a total of 40 minutes, so I add 3 or 4 ounces of bleach. On the rare occasion that we miss a night, I'll add 1 or 2 ounces. Basically, my goal is to soak in water with 1 ppm FC.
  12. I'd highly recommend Nitro's decontamination procedure using Spa System Flush, Spa Purge or Swirl Away.
  13. You can get Nature2 cartridges here for $17.44 with free shipping within the US. I bought 2 from them a couple weeks ago. Brand new in factory retail packaging and fast shipping.
  14. Don't be so sure Greg! As we have all learned from quantumwhatshisnameorsomethinglikethat ... H2O + CO2 → H2CO3 Pure water has a pH of 7.0. However, normal rain (and snow) is slightly acidic because carbon dioxide (CO2) dissolves into it forming weak carbonic acid, giving the resulting mixture a pH of approximately 5.6 at typical atmospheric concentrations of CO2. Don't know how it is up in Ottawa, but in some parts of the U.S., acidic rain (and snow) has a pH of about 4.3. But don't worry ... the Goreacle and the anointed one will save the day. Merry Christmas Everybody !!
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