notable17

Thanks. I tried to buy some Gentle Spa at the dealer/parts supplier yesterday, but he said he didn't have a chemical by that name. Any other name for it? -DG-

Ok, so my water tested out with a higher CH than is discussed in any examples. It came to 250. My TA is 230 and my PH out of the tap was 7.6. Question is, in order to reduce my TA to 80-100, my CSI is still .16 at 80ppm. In order to get close to 0, I have to set TA to 60 for my 450 gallon tub at a temp of 100. Is this too low? Thanks for any insights into this. BTW, my k-2006 should show up on Friday. I hope it helps. -DG-

In step one of the decontamination, can the water have just been filled? Should the water be heated to operational temperature (eg: 102 degrees)? Do I need to balance the water before adding swirl away? Thanks for any info you can provide. -DG-

You read my mind. I've been working on getting it to hold water like you suggest. I've replaced one manifold and filled it only to find a much slower leak on another one. I watched carefully as it was filling and to the best of my knowledge, it is only leaking under manifold number two (opposite side of spa pack). I haven't worked on it for a week or so, but I plan to get back to it after this weekend when our visiting guests depart. Let me tell you, the wife is not happy that the beast is in the backyard under my deck with all the panels removed. I've called a shop about the motor rebuild and they bench test for free so once water will stay in this thing, it is off to fix-all electric.

*bump*

You must be psychic. I replaced the manifold on the left side closest to the mechanical area and filled it with water only to find that as you predicted, a slow leak occured under the other manifold. I cut the foam off on the top and didn't see anything, but I wasn't thorough enough. When is enough, enough on a spa repair? I know the motor is bad, but how do I know if the heater and control pack are working? Also, I have a 5 hp waterway 2 speed motor, can I get away with a 4hp 2 way? I was thinking if I could, I may just buy an entire spa pack with motor included. (after I get it to stop leaking, that is)

It is a Viking Extreme and to the best of my knowledge of reading the serial number and the test sheet attached to the spa controller, it was manufactured in early 2002. It's close to its 7th birthday. I must say the previous owner treated it poorly for at least the past 18 months based on info I obtained from a mutual friend. I've had to strip the entire cabinet and will make a new one if I can stop the leaks and repair or replace the pump. Isn't the 3/4 line flexible? If I cut it are there unions that can be affixed to it like normal PVC? I'll know more this afternon when I start cutting away the foam around the manifolds. I found a source for 2lb closed cell online, but does anyone know a good source for finding it locally at a decent price? Spa/Pool repair businesses or Big Box hardware chains? *bump* for how to on couping the flexible hose that I now have exposed on my spa. 2" is just sched. 40 pvc. use 2" couplings, unions if you want... On the 3/4 clear. What I do is, cut the barbs off on the manifolds right at the end of the hose, heat the 3/4 lines up one at a time with a heat gun and work the old barbs out with a pair of needle nose pliers. you could use 3/4 barb/barb fittings to extend those lines if needed. the 3/4 was glued originaly, but I put spring clamps on my repairs so that next time a customer lets it freeze it's easier to repair. Thanks for the info! Any good source of 3/4 barb/barb fittings either online or somewhere I might look locally? I've found barbed to pvc and barb reducing, but not 3/4 on both sides. Thanks all for your help. I hope to put the new manifold on tomorrow and hope for no more drips (I'm not optimistic though).

It is a Viking Extreme and to the best of my knowledge of reading the serial number and the test sheet attached to the spa controller, it was manufactured in early 2002. It's close to its 7th birthday. I must say the previous owner treated it poorly for at least the past 18 months based on info I obtained from a mutual friend. I've had to strip the entire cabinet and will make a new one if I can stop the leaks and repair or replace the pump. Isn't the 3/4 line flexible? If I cut it are there unions that can be affixed to it like normal PVC? I'll know more this afternon when I start cutting away the foam around the manifolds. I found a source for 2lb closed cell online, but does anyone know a good source for finding it locally at a decent price? Spa/Pool repair businesses or Big Box hardware chains? *bump* for how to on couping the flexible hose that I now have exposed on my spa.

Seems a bit older than I wanted, although, it does look to be in good shape. Perhaps I'll keep looking. Thanks for the help.

It is a Viking Extreme and to the best of my knowledge of reading the serial number and the test sheet attached to the spa controller, it was manufactured in early 2002. It's close to its 7th birthday. I must say the previous owner treated it poorly for at least the past 18 months based on info I obtained from a mutual friend. I've had to strip the entire cabinet and will make a new one if I can stop the leaks and repair or replace the pump. Isn't the 3/4 line flexible? If I cut it are there unions that can be affixed to it like normal PVC? I'll know more this afternon when I start cutting away the foam around the manifolds. I found a source for 2lb closed cell online, but does anyone know a good source for finding it locally at a decent price? Spa/Pool repair businesses or Big Box hardware chains?

I have an opportunity to purchase this tub at a decent price, I think (500 bucks), but the owner doesn't know the age of the spa or the model number. She just states that it is a Marquis tub. Can anyone identify this as true and if so what model am I looking at? Shot in the dark, but I thought it was worth a try. Further info from the seller states that the model number is 18b3710-h I think the number given was for a baker-hydro control box and not the spa itself.

I recently inherited a viking spa and have been fixing leaks on both sides of the motor. I didn't have to change the check valve on the left (or right for that matter), but I did find a major crack under the closed cell foam on the left hand side between two manifolds. I think I found the end of the crack on both sides and they don't appear to go to the manifolds as far as I can tell. I'd rather not have to chip away the insulation on the manifolds to find out if they are cracked or not, so I'm wondering if you replaced them as a precaution or if you knew they were bad. Also, how do the manifolds connect to the lines that flow out to the jets? Thanks for any info you can recall, as I have had a rough time finding much info out about these regional tubs.