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hrustar's Achievements

Spa Savant

Spa Savant (3/5)



  1. I guess I knew all water was unique, but glad to know I'm not the only one. Thanks.
  2. Just re-filled my tub this weekend. TA coming out of the hose was 250. Slowly working it down using Muratic Acid but it's a process. Is such a high TA typical?
  3. I'm a 102° guy in the winter, but wondering what people like to keep their tubs at in the summer? Do you cool it down to pool temps? That was my plan. FYI, my hot tub is outdoors.
  4. My spa gets fairly regular use. Every day or every other day. I have ozone with a 50 square foot filter and filter cysle set at 2 hours twice a day. I spray my filter off weekly, but it is rarely very dirty. When I soak it in cascade, I do find some oil and debris wash come out, but not a ton. And my water is clear as can be (with only a couple random exceptions). My point, I think filtration is important, but smart tubing is even more important. By that I mean the cleaner you are going into the the hot tub (and while you are in it), the less need you have for filtration.
  5. My hot tub has a weir gate that restricts water flow into the filter area, but I'm not sure why. What would happen if the gate was removed. I don't really mind the gate, but it is a bit noisy. I wish they had added rubber grommets to the hinges to silnce it.
  6. If this is true (which I'm not doubting) how come my water has remained crystal clear (with heavy tub use) for the better part of a couple months, despite having the rocket high CYA? What's more, no itching, rashes or biofilm? In otherwords, what signs wold there have been if my FC was indeed that much less than what you propose? I've only had the clouding issue when adding non chlorinated shock. THANKS!
  7. I believe the light will turn back on. I have a CalSpa and was told the light not working is what informs you it's time to replace the cartridge. I think it's only $40.
  8. The reason he suggests a higher chlorine level is due to the high CYA level. CYA will buffer the Chlorine and it takes much more to do the same sanitizing. Thus the Di-chlor then bleach method. A-ha. that makes excellent sense.
  9. I am using Nature 2. I also plan to drain in about one month. As for the 7 ppm of chlorine, that seems awfully high. I think the Taylor book suggest 5 ppm but I have to check. I try to keep the FC low, around 1.5 or 2 before soaking, then punch it up with bleach right as I get out. Last time I tested for combined chlorine (about a week ago) I had zero.
  10. When I use MPS to "shock" my hot tub, the water ends up looking horrible. Am I doing something wrong? I add about 1.5 oz. to a 425 gallon tub. For example, this weekend, a friend watched my house and used the tub. When I came home, the water wasn't bad, but not really spot on. I added 1.5 oz. of MPS and went to bed. This morning, the water looks very cloudy. This has happened before. Any ideas? Am I doing something wrong? FYI my water numbers are typically around or at: FC 3 PH 7.2/7.4 TA 100 CH 225 CYA 130 Borates: 50 ppm CSI at or just bellow 0
  11. I can also vouch for Spadepot. Good products, service, delivery time. That said, I get most of my chemicals from the grocery or hardware store now. Bleach, Soda Ash, Borax, Muractic acid, etc.
  12. There are no floaters for a hot tub that I know of.
  13. The biggest difference I know off is convenience. It requires less maintenance than a chlorine spa. That said, I don't find chlorine to be that hard. Plus, I feel i have more control over the water conditions with chlorine since I add exact amounts of chlorine, vs. a bromine tablet feeder.
  14. I had the same concern. I have my tub about 24 inches from the house, in front of a window. We don't even get moisture or fog build up. No issues at all. My advice, place your tub where it is convenient to get to.
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