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bart6453's Achievements

Hot Tub Aficionado

Hot Tub Aficionado (4/5)



  1. Anyone know where to get some reagents? I bought the kit about a year ago when we where all talking about how cheap this one place was...now I can't remember what the place was that I ordered it from. It was some kind of water maintenance supply company for consumers up to municipal customers. thanks for the help. Bart
  2. NASA Seriously.....it's bad mojo...just say no to peroxide.
  3. Never bathed in pine sol, regardless of the concentration. I am sure Clorox would tell you to change the water if you called them about it. A water change is less than $25......go that route.
  4. All you have going on is a bit of unoxidized waste. Typically at the point where you are at is when people shock it or "super chlorinate" Use the pool calculator to determine what level to shock your tub at with chlorine based on your current CYA level. Another alternative is to keep some MPS around and add that when your combined chlorine reaches or exceeds .5ppm. (this is what I do as I don't like to close my tub for a day while the FC level drops) You will also notice higher CC after heavy bather loads. FYI: The difference between FC and TC is Combined Chlorine....I am sure you already knew that but just thought it prudent to put it in the post.
  5. My tub got up to PH 10.7 and I ran out of dry acid last night, wondering if 10.7 is damaging for an overnight stay in my tub : ) Wow! Presume you're reporting the water in your spa and not some substance found on the fiberglass... how did you come up with a pH of 10.7? (what test or instrumentation)? If this is a meter, was it properly calibrated? That just seems too high to be accepted easily. You could ameliorate high pH in spa water by incorporating an acid ... including muriatic acid or weaker substances such as vinegar or lemon juice. But I would double check the measurement... and consider draining and refilling the spa after application, as well. Do any of you other AG spa owners encounter pH levels this high? Holy...ph at 10.7??? That's about as high as ammonia. You must have a misreading. How in the hell could it get that high? Rarely does my ph get above 7.6
  6. Since you are going to need some anyways....I would say drive the 30 minutes and get some dry acid.
  7. soak them in a TSP and warm water solution overnight. Then rinse very, very well. Any recommended TSP products? I tried cascade and bleach with water. So So results. TSP is the chemical...you can get it in the paint department at most hardware stores.
  8. soak them in a TSP and warm water solution overnight. Then rinse very, very well.
  9. Yeah, that's what I'm beginning to think too. The guy I bought the tub from went out of town the week before I got it. So he may have had it full for a week with no chemical attention at all. I thought a full 182 oz jug of bleach, overnight decon, and new filter would take care of any issues, but I'm beginning to think maybe not. Maybe there's some biofilm or something that's going to take a lot of FC and time to resolve. At 10pm tonight, I had: TA = 80; pH = 7.6; FC = 9; CC = 1.0 Remember at lunchtime I had 8.5 FC and added 8 oz of Bleach (so ~10ppm FC). That means, I should've had about 18.5 FC. So again, I must've lost ~50% of FC in about 12 hours. Well, with a measured residual of 9ppm FC, I figured it would be ok to have a soak. So, we spent about 1.5 bather-hours in the tub. Afterward, I thought I'd go ahead and shock the heck out of it. I added 40 oz of bleach (should be ~50ppm FC). I'll see what I've got left tomorrow. I might wait a full 24 hours to get a real read on FC Demand. I would do a 24 hour CD reading just to be sure. As your sample time increases your margin of error decreases. Have you changed/cleaned the filters of the tub? Dirty filters can contribute to CD.
  10. I think you have something going on in your tub, something dirty. I would keep it at super shock levels for a few days at least and keep checking it. I would also start using MPS to start lowering your CC more quickly and assist your chlorine. I read your post above the last, and honestly just don't have the brainpower left tonight to give you an answer worthy of the question...tough day at the bike shop.
  11. You seem to have a very good handle on your situation. My recommendation for changing ph & TA would be to calculate the amount of chemicals you are to add and then halve it. Add that and recheck in an hour or so. Then calculate and half it again....keep doing that until you hit your mark. That way you don't overshoot. which is utterly frustrating. As to using so much chlorine, you mentioned foam...which means you must be getting in with suits and clothes and such. I have noticed our CD going up dramatically when we have fabrics in the tub. To keep your CD down a you may try adding MPS just before the soak and then add your bleach after. MPS really helps your chlorine out.
  12. Could have superseded. If so....they should have had the bulletin in the package. Secondarily, it is your responsibility to make sure you are getting the right parts, and to check fitment prior to buttoning up a job. (including voltage)
  13. Looking pretty good, I would stop with the dichlor when you get to 30ppm CYA. Switch to an unstabilized chlorine, I.E. Bleach. Maybe introduce some borates to help stabilize your PH, and then lower your TA a bit....if you TA is too high it will tend to pull your PH up. If you get it just right, it really locks in your PH and it won't change much for months. Keep your FC from 1-5ppm and shock with MPS or chlorine when your CC gets to .5 or above. Use the pool calculator for your calculations and if you have an iPhone/iPod get the pool calculator app. Looks like you have a pretty good handle on things....good luck!
  14. I know very little about spa packs specifically....but what I do know is if your voltage is lower than it should be all your equipment will be running at a higher temperature.
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