Aqua Rite Problem

[blahblah]

I have an inground pool with an Aqua Rite chlorine generator. The cell stopped generating chlorine a while back, and I have slowly replaced all the parts and pieces that I believe could be responsible, but still no chlorine being generated.

Somebody please help!

Here is what I replaced with new parts:

- Aqua Rite Turbo Cell (T-CELL-15)

- flow switch

- GLX-PCB-RITE controller board

Still no chlorine being generated!

Here is what the diagnostics displays on the display panel:

Salt level: 2600 (NOTE: our pool store measured our water and said the salt was really over 4000 ppm)

Pool temp: 84

Cell voltage: 14.3 (booklet says this is typically 22.5-25.0V when generating, otherwise 30-35V)

Cell current: 0 (ie: not generating)

Desired output: 85p

Instant salinity: -0 (interesting...)

Product name: AL-0

Software revision: r1.40

The switch is set to "Auto" on the controller box.

The only LED that is on is the "Aqualink RS" light. No other LED's are on.

I also have an AquaLinkRS4 control panel inside the house, and it scrolls the message "Check AquaRite" as part of its information display rotation,but again, the only LED lit up on the outside control panel is the "Aqualink RS" light.

I did hold the diagnostics button on the outside control panel to "reset" the "Check AquaRite" message, but the inside AquaLinkRS4 still displays the "Check" message...

I am at a total loss on this - any suggestions on what to look at next? How do I get my system to generate chlorine again?

I have had the salt cell tested at my local pool store, and it passed.

I tried calling Hayward/Goldline, and they were useless on the phone - no advice.

Any ideas from the folks out there??

Thanks in advance...

[ps558]

I have an inground pool with an Aqua Rite chlorine generator. The cell stopped generating chlorine a while back, and I have slowly replaced all the parts and pieces that I believe could be responsible, but still no chlorine being generated.

Somebody please help!

Here is what I replaced with new parts:

- Aqua Rite Turbo Cell (T-CELL-15)

- flow switch

- GLX-PCB-RITE controller board

Still no chlorine being generated!

Here is what the diagnostics displays on the display panel:

Salt level: 2600 (NOTE: our pool store measured our water and said the salt was really over 4000 ppm)

Pool temp: 84

Cell voltage: 14.3 (booklet says this is typically 22.5-25.0V when generating, otherwise 30-35V)

Cell current: 0 (ie: not generating)

Desired output: 85p

Instant salinity: -0 (interesting...)

Product name: AL-0

Software revision: r1.40

The switch is set to "Auto" on the controller box.

The only LED that is on is the "Aqualink RS" light. No other LED's are on.

I also have an AquaLinkRS4 control panel inside the house, and it scrolls the message "Check AquaRite" as part of its information display rotation,but again, the only LED lit up on the outside control panel is the "Aqualink RS" light.

I did hold the diagnostics button on the outside control panel to "reset" the "Check AquaRite" message, but the inside AquaLinkRS4 still displays the "Check" message...

I am at a total loss on this - any suggestions on what to look at next? How do I get my system to generate chlorine again?

I have had the salt cell tested at my local pool store, and it passed.

I tried calling Hayward/Goldline, and they were useless on the phone - no advice.

Any ideas from the folks out there??

Thanks in advance...

From reading this you have a complete pool control center? Is the main control box programmed to know that a cell is installed?

[AquaTechPool]

For starters, I would disconnect the unit from the aqualink. It makes operation of the unit much easier and you can do it rite at the aquarite control panel. If that lite is flashing, it means it is being remotely controlled. Open up the cover on the main aquarite unit and to access the main circuit board. you will see a red 4 pin connector with the numbers 1,2,3,4. disconnect this connector and just leave it inside the box. now you will be able to more easily control the unit from outside instead of at the jandy.

2600 is the default salinity on a newly installed system. so if you just installed this board, that is why you it is showing 2600. turn the pump on, the flow light indicator should start to flash for a minute or so. after it turns solid, indicating flow is established, hit the diagnostics button until you get to the negative number, whether it be negative zero or anything else, turn the unit from auto to off and back into auto and wait a few seconds, you should hear the board relay kick in, the negative number should peak and then come back down, once it stabilizes, move the selecter knob from auto to superchlorinate and back to auto to lock in the new reading. you may want to repeat this procedure several times.

Additionally, if your salinity is truly 4000, it is too high and should be lowered. If your water is warm and the salt is that high, the unit will pul too many amps and shut itself down automatically to protect its internal circuitry.

Lastly, how old is the unit? Why did you replace all of those items? The unit has a 3 year warranty on the parts and I've never seen all of those items fail at once. Actually, I don't think I've seen even two of those items fail at once.

I do warranty for Goldline Controls.

Paul

Somebody please help!

Here is what I replaced with new parts:

- Aqua Rite Turbo Cell (T-CELL-15)

- flow switch

- GLX-PCB-RITE controller board

Still no chlorine being generated!

Here is what the diagnostics displays on the display panel:

Salt level: 2600 (NOTE: our pool store measured our water and said the salt was really over 4000 ppm)

Pool temp: 84

Cell voltage: 14.3 (booklet says this is typically 22.5-25.0V when generating, otherwise 30-35V)

Cell current: 0 (ie: not generating)

Desired output: 85p

Instant salinity: -0 (interesting...)

Product name: AL-0

Software revision: r1.40

The switch is set to "Auto" on the controller box.

The only LED that is on is the "Aqualink RS" light. No other LED's are on.

I also have an AquaLinkRS4 control panel inside the house, and it scrolls the message "Check AquaRite" as part of its information display rotation,but again, the only LED lit up on the outside control panel is the "Aqualink RS" light.

I did hold the diagnostics button on the outside control panel to "reset" the "Check AquaRite" message, but the inside AquaLinkRS4 still displays the "Check" message...

I am at a total loss on this - any suggestions on what to look at next? How do I get my system to generate chlorine again?

I have had the salt cell tested at my local pool store, and it passed.

I tried calling Hayward/Goldline, and they were useless on the phone - no advice.

Any ideas from the folks out there??

Thanks in advance...

From reading this you have a complete pool control center? Is the main control box programmed to know that a cell is installed?

[Pool Clown]

Your not going to get that thing to work untill you get the salinity level correct (listed on the inside door of the unit).

[PeterM]

Hi -

I saw the below quote, and I have a similar problem... but I haven't bought any parts yet. Basically the only time lights come on is on restart - Flow blinks for about a minute; then when that goes out the Green Generator light comes on for about 10 seconds and turns off. The power light does not turn on, nor do any other lights. The diagnostic readings are as follows:

Im not sure if the titles are correct, but based on what the previous writer mentioned they line up:

Salt level: 3100 (NOTE: our pool store measured our water and said the salt was 0 ppm - I added chlorine as my pool is turning green)

Pool temp: 85

Cell voltage: 3.9

Cell current: 0.00

Desired output: 100p

Instant salinity: -0

Product name: AL-0

Software revision: r1.13

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks!

[blahblah]

Paul,

I checked the salinity level at the pool store - it is currently 3900 ppm.

I took your advice and put the system in Service mode (didn't need to disconnect wires), turned the system on, waited for AquaLink light to stop flashing, then pushed the Diagnostics button until "- 0" was displayed, then moved the switch from Auto to Off and back to Auto after a few seconds, as instructed, but did not hear the relay clock. I repeated the switch flip a couple of times. I also tried moving it from Auto to Superchlorinate and back to Auto as well. At no time did I see the instant salinity move from the "- 0' number.

I now see however that the salt level is no longer 2600, but now reads a solid 0 when the system is running with water circulating.

Any ideas?

As far as your question about why I replaced the parts that I did, the system has not been under warranty for a couple of years now.

I started off with the no flow light being on. Since there was obviously flow, I figured the flow switch/sensor was bad, so I started by replacing that. Then I found out (by testing my salt cell at the pool store) that the cell had gone bad. The pool store said that these cells are only good for about 5 years (I did not buy the replacement at that pool store...). I then replaced the controller board because the system was still not working, and I know that we had a power surge due to a nearby lightning strike that had damaged other equipment on the house.

Thanks for your responses to this issue.

For starters, I would disconnect the unit from the aqualink. It makes operation of the unit much easier and you can do it rite at the aquarite control panel. If that lite is flashing, it means it is being remotely controlled. Open up the cover on the main aquarite unit and to access the main circuit board. you will see a red 4 pin connector with the numbers 1,2,3,4. disconnect this connector and just leave it inside the box. now you will be able to more easily control the unit from outside instead of at the jandy.

2600 is the default salinity on a newly installed system. so if you just installed this board, that is why you it is showing 2600. turn the pump on, the flow light indicator should start to flash for a minute or so. after it turns solid, indicating flow is established, hit the diagnostics button until you get to the negative number, whether it be negative zero or anything else, turn the unit from auto to off and back into auto and wait a few seconds, you should hear the board relay kick in, the negative number should peak and then come back down, once it stabilizes, move the selecter knob from auto to superchlorinate and back to auto to lock in the new reading. you may want to repeat this procedure several times.

Additionally, if your salinity is truly 4000, it is too high and should be lowered. If your water is warm and the salt is that high, the unit will pul too many amps and shut itself down automatically to protect its internal circuitry.

Lastly, how old is the unit? Why did you replace all of those items? The unit has a 3 year warranty on the parts and I've never seen all of those items fail at once. Actually, I don't think I've seen even two of those items fail at once.

I do warranty for Goldline Controls.

Paul

From reading this you have a complete pool control center? Is the main control box programmed to know that a cell is installed?

[blahblah]

I fixed my problem.

It turns out, as I read in another pool and spa forum, that the GLX-PCB-RITE controller board ships from Goldline configured for 220V, and I had to reconfigure the board for 110V operation. There is a pair of jumpers across pins 2 & 3 of the power connector for 220V setup. To configure for 110V operation, you have to move one jumper to jump between pins 1 and 2, and the other jumper to go between pins 3 and 4. You can find this information in the Wiring Diagram section of the Aqua Rite instruction book. Once I moved the jumpers, I was able to get the system running normally, after flipping the switch from Auto to Off a couple of times. I was then able to see the "Generating" light on, and everything is fine now.

I hope this helps someone else out there...

[AquaTechPool]

ooops, it helps that it is installed correcly. at least it wasn't the other way around or else you would have blown the brand new circuit board. that is why they ship them out preset for 220, so if your wrong, no harm done. the wiring/jumper diagram is also on the front inside door panel. I'm glad you got it working.

paul

[saltwaterpooler]

Your not going to get that thing to work untill you get the salinity level correct (listed on the inside door of the unit).

PeterM post above - Did you ever find out what the problem was with your power not showing? I am having the exact same problem. The no flow light blinks for a minute then the generating light blinks for about 10 seconds then every light does not show anything. Any help would be appreciated by anyone. Thanks!

[uancjes]

I have the same problem also!

[RedSeaClarity]

I have an inground pool with an Aqua Rite chlorine generator. The cell stopped generating chlorine a while back, and I have slowly replaced all the parts and pieces that I believe could be responsible, but still no chlorine being generated.

Somebody please help!

Here is what I replaced with new parts:

- Aqua Rite Turbo Cell (T-CELL-15)

- flow switch

- GLX-PCB-RITE controller board

Still no chlorine being generated!

Here is what the diagnostics displays on the display panel:

Salt level: 2600 (NOTE: our pool store measured our water and said the salt was really over 4000 ppm)

Pool temp: 84

Cell voltage: 14.3 (booklet says this is typically 22.5-25.0V when generating, otherwise 30-35V)

Cell current: 0 (ie: not generating)

Desired output: 85p

Instant salinity: -0 (interesting...)

Product name: AL-0

Software revision: r1.40

The switch is set to "Auto" on the controller box.

The only LED that is on is the "Aqualink RS" light. No other LED's are on.

I also have an AquaLinkRS4 control panel inside the house, and it scrolls the message "Check AquaRite" as part of its information display rotation,but again, the only LED lit up on the outside control panel is the "Aqualink RS" light.

I did hold the diagnostics button on the outside control panel to "reset" the "Check AquaRite" message, but the inside AquaLinkRS4 still displays the "Check" message...

I am at a total loss on this - any suggestions on what to look at next? How do I get my system to generate chlorine again?

I have had the salt cell tested at my local pool store, and it passed.

I tried calling Hayward/Goldline, and they were useless on the phone - no advice.

Any ideas from the folks out there??

Thanks in advance...

My Aqua Rite pc board went bad. Where do I find one from a internet supplier.