AquaTechPool

as far as a component of the board, i don't think the layman can do that. at least i can't. but i can tell you, if it isn't a fuse or incorrect wiring, you will need to replace the entire main circuit board. did two this week. Paul

sorry, i wanted to add (couldn't remember the names as its been a busy week and i'm tired) do not change bulb types such as halogen and incandescant. Each fixture is made to take one type or another, not both. I don't know any that is made to take CFL's. The bulbs are also pool and spa rated. At least the ones i always use. Paul

As someone already mentioned, its time for a new light. Lights do have an internal thermal overload protection like a motor. I just replaced an entire light fixture on monday for the same exact reason. I would NOT recommend changing out parts that are not intended to be used in the light, mainly diffent types of light bulbs. They will lose their UL rating, it isn't safe, and i don't personally like to take chances where electricity and water meet. Paul

My guess would be it is a bad cell. The cell has an internal thermistor that reads water temperature, and if it is reading incorrectly, then it would be a problem with the cell. I will tell you though, it may be under warranty if it is less than 3 years old. I am a warranty station for Goldline Controls in so. california. I have been to many service calls where the homeowner said they took it to a local pool supply and it tested fine, and it wasn't, and vice versa. So, i would not rely on the test results of your local pool store. If it were me, i would call a local warranty tech, and have it tested, the only way to verify what i've said would be to swap out the cell and see if that corrects it. Because the cells are very expensive, most homeowners don't have an extra laying around, or are willing to buy one just to test it. Good luck. P.S. hopefully you mad absolutely sure the cell is cleaned, correct??? Paul

I would expect the builder would not want to take care of it. They usually don't. However, there are good ones. I know them to like to blame it on your chemistry, etc. It is not that old, so it should still be covered, at least by any reputable builder. The actual liability would lay with the plasterer, however, the bulder is responsible because he hired the plasterer. The nodules come from air pockets that were trapped beneath the surface of the plaster. You can sand them off fairly easily with some 80 grit wet/dry sandpaper, but they will eventually , more than likely, come back. Good luck. Paul

I'm a pool guy. I 've never seen a good one. I've seen lots. They are temporary fixes, very temporary. If you are selling the house, and want to make a short term improvement, then I may approve. Otherwise, save your money and replaster. That is my opinion. I also don't offer this service for that reason. I acid wash and recommend replastering. Paul

I use this product all the time. It is a good product. I am assuming you bought a quart of the seal clear phohsphate remover. Make sure you start witht a clean filter, or at least recently cleaned one. The pressure cannot be too high as this product will make the pressure increase. Tooo much pressure, and you could do some damage to the filter. 2500 ppb is quite high, so i am assuming you have never treated for it. How old is the pool water, last time it was completely drained????? With the filter running, locate the returns in your poool. you probably have at least 3 or so. pour the liquid, straight from the bottle, directly in front of the returns. I would start with about half of the bottle divided between the returns. The pool will turn milky white. Let the pool run until it is crystal clear again. I do not use the clarifier tabs. You can discard them. It might take 4 hours or it might take 12 hours to clear again. Depends on your equipment and your specific situation. When it is clear, take another sample to the store and have it retested. Repeat the procedure until the phosphates are at zero or at least below 100 ppb. Keep an eye on your filter pressure, it may need to be cleaned before you get it all out. It will definately need to be cleaned after the phosphates are gone. Good Luck, Paul

Don't feel bad, there are a ton of ideas, methods, and rules of thumb as to how much does he is lossed/removed from backwashing, and how much DE to put back into the filter. The truth is, it is not an exact science. With that said, it is important to know that you cannot just backwash and or rely solely on backwashing to clean your filter, as many homeowners do. I've seen some backwash for as long as 2 years before doing a complete tear down. The filter should be torn down completely, grids individually removed, and cleaned. Paul

That black line is a scum line, mainly grease and oil from body oils and sunscreens. Enzymes do work great for that, however, they are not instant. You need to use it regularly as a preventative. Pool perfect is a good product for that. However, you'll need to do an initial treatment, then use regularly afterthat. Paul

Those look what i know as calcium nodules. How old is the plaster??? I woiuld say it is a problem with the plaster job. Paul

Just to make sure you are doing it right, turn BOTH the return and suction valve to zero percent spa and 100 percent on pool suction and return. You may also try posting a picture here of your plumbing setup. Paul

I run over a hundred pools a week like this, and algae is not a problem. If you are having algae, it is another issue, not from lack of circulation. You cannot leave the valve as you have for the reasons you are experiencing. Paul

thats about it. believe it or not, there are many folks that can't figure that out. Also, be prepared for the wire getting stuck or the tied ends coming apart. then you'll need a fish tape.

As pool clown said, the remote should just pry out of the conduit. Sometimes they will put a little silicone bead around the permiter of the remote, but just remove it with a razor blade, and then pull it out, it will have an o-ring behind the neck. Sometimes builders do put grout around it, but they are not supposed to. And as you have figured out, it is not a cheap part. It will require running the wire all the way back to the main box as well. NOt as hard as it sounds, but probably not as easy if you have never done it before or are not mechanincally inclined.

There is you problem... The valves are not set correctly, especially your suction valve. The suction valve should be completely closed to the spa and opened all the way to skimmer, and vac line, if so equipped. Depending on how your pool is plumbed, the return could need to be 100% to the pool, (if you have a by pass line w/ check valve ) or anywhere from 20spa 80 pool to 50/50. I never set it 80 spa and 20 pool. The main reason here that your having the problem is the suctino line being even partially opened to the spa. When the pump turns off, the water in the spa wants to seek equilibrium with the pool and gravity drains it back down to the pool. Hope that helps. Paul