cranbiz

Why? Because service after the sale keeps you from having a $15K boat anchor. A dealer that has inhouse service is more likely to be attentive to their customer's needs and resolving issues. A dealer who has to outsource service is at the whim of the contracted provider. Costco will try to make you whole but they are at the mercy of that contracted vendor, who sets their own rules. If the vendor says we can't get to you now, Costco is going to say, take it up with them. Independent techs may not be able to get the parts from a manufacturer in a timely fashion where a dealer with inhouse service usually has a higher priority. This isn't any different than a home warranty company. They contract to different trades, who won't always be responsive or outright refuse to service a customer due to distance, etc. The warranty company then tries another and another and finally it's up to the homeowner to contract someone and get reimbursed. You are made whole eventually but you have paid OOP for the repair and wait for a check. Yeah, been there, done that. Still out $300.

110V or 220V tub?

Have you checked the phosphates? High phosphates cause havoc with the Freshwater system.

No, a bad relay doesn't automatically mean a new control pack. The relays are readily available and not expensive. They can be replaced for far less than a new control pack by anyone with soldering skills.

A blower check valve looks something like this. https://www.spaguts.com/spa-blower-check-valve-1?gclid=Cj0KCQjwy5maBhDdARIsAMxrkw0yXQCQYwTl7mj5QbS3UpVpDGeHmYEDQyMYoRqyTTnxPOSEMuHdYD8aAk6ZEALw_wcB The blower will inject air into the jet to add to the therapeutic experience. Many spa's have air injection. Some are controlled by a diverter valve, some have switches in different locations to turn on the air. If you have one, the blower motor should be in the equipment area and have one line coming from it that goes to a hartford loop. https://www.facebook.com/Cayman.PoolPatrol/posts/pools-101-hartford-loopwe-took-over-a-spa-construction-contract-a-while-ago-afte/2042421209350365/

Calling @CanadianSpaTech

The ozone generator is normally connected to the circulation pump. That is the small pump. The bubbles are normal for an ozone equipped system. My guess is you have air in the system as you did say one of the main pumps have been changed. The easiest way to bleed the lines is to crack the union at the pump until water flows freely and then tighten the union up. There might be some air lines that are for the blower. Those should have check valves and if a check valve is bad, could be allowing air into the plumbing.

You could probably get away with running your spa for 3-4 months and then purge, drain and refill. It's a bit less painful. You do run the risk though you will probably fuss with getting the water balanced initially. I'm on a well so have to ration the water while filling as not to deplete my well. I did an initial fill and ran it for 3 months. The chemicals depleted a bit more rapidly than I felt they should and it was getting a bit harder to keep the water balanced. At the end of the first 3 months, I did an AhhSome purge, getting a fair amount of scum out of the plumbing. Drained it and refilled. I'm getting about 5 weeks out of a smartchlor cartridge now instead of 3-4 weeks. Keeping PH right is also now easier.

@CanadianSpaTech Got any suggestions?

8 GA ground wire is sufficient, where 6 GA Black, White and Red (for 220V) is sufficient for current carrying conductors. This is good for 60A over 50'. Many electricians will use 4 GA with a 6 GA ground but that is overkill for less than 50' distances. If you used 8 GA for all, yes, it can burn up as it's too small. Something is shorted. Just not sure what.

@CanadianSpaTech Our resident Gecko Expert.

According to Master, 1/11/2019 https://masterspasportal.com/MSDealerPortal/MSDP_SpaLookup.aspx

See my post in the other thread. Gecko packs do this when the firmware gets scrambled. Sometimes the dealer can reload the firmware, sometimes they can't. The pack still is under warranty if what you said in the other post it true. Call the dealer for service.

Gecko pack, should still be under warranty if it's a little over a year old. Have the dealer come out and either try to reload the firmware or replace the pack. Happens frequently.

Pull the filters and see if that helps. If not, check the flow switch. If it's stuck or doesn't have continuity when open, it's bad and will give you a low flow error.

That wire and those connectors are just fine.

Post up pictures of the board and the wiring diagram. make sure the dip switches are visable. Also a picture or 2 of the equipment area.

Kind of judgmental, I think. The Op corrected his post to explain that his costs were mis understood initially. I for one, chose to spend my money on the hot tub. We don't take big expensive family vacations, we choose to stay at home or go to local state and national forests and enjoy the simple things. The hot tub plays into this for relaxation and therapy. There is nothing like hopping in the tub after a day of doing yard work or having friends over to tub and talk. My tub runs me around $40 a month for electricity and chemicals. This is less than I would spend for a trip to Disney, etc. My quality of life has improved and that is hard to put a price on. Many others here will agree with me. I bought a cheap Class C (I paid less than $6K for it and repairs) for weekend trips to local parks and forests so it's the cost of gas and food to get away when we want to. I can do a weekend to the local national forest for about $200. Again, cheap relaxation and de stressing. I prefer to spend my money this way, others choose to spend their money in other ways. It might not be for you, fine. You do you.

Check the ground wire for a good connection. Make sure the neutral wire is not touching the case or the ground wire.

Strap Wrench, then. https://www.amazon.com/Multi-Purpose-Adjustable-Anti-sliding-Layered-Thickened/dp/B0927TWTY3/ref=asc_df_B0927TWTY3/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=533371127898&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1470060303687189239&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9009625&hvtargid=pla-1385472870165&psc=1

Basin wrench maybe? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09CYKD18T/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B09CYKD18T&pd_rd_w=Fs5tc&content-id=amzn1.sym.3481f441-61ac-4028-9c1a-7f9ce8ec50c5&pf_rd_p=3481f441-61ac-4028-9c1a-7f9ce8ec50c5&pf_rd_r=4D79DXFPGY4BXRPEVZXF&pd_rd_wg=31BTY&pd_rd_r=b28f606b-1996-47a9-9cdf-956decf95412&s=hi&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFBUlhJUEFKTVdDRkYmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwOTc5ODYySk5KSFEwOVJWMTJZJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA3NTQwMzYyUEhTTjVRTDQwMVQ3JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsX3RoZW1hdGljJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== Or a strap wrench.

That makes 3 of us.

If you have a multimeter, you can check the heater. Pull the cover and see if the relays are supplying 240V to the heater. If it is, kill the power and check the heater element with the meter set for ohms. The element should read between 10-14 ohms, more or less than that or if no reading, the element is bad.

I would also expect my dealer to have answers to basic questions. The manual might have something in it about operation. The Ozonator works when the circulation pump is running and it's not usually on any timed cycle. Obviously, the ozonator will work on a filter cycle.

A circulation pump is available 24/7, some tubs are programmed to run it 24/7, others run it when the tub needs to call for heat to maintain temp. If you have a circulator pump, the will tub run that to circulate heated water anytime it senses the need to heat the tub. It sounds like it's working normally. Mine works like yours.