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Bouncycow

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Bouncycow last won the day on October 5 2022

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  1. Excellent, thanks: I'll give that a try. Much appreciated
  2. Thanks! CYA is a bit high, about 45 I think: I find the Taylor test a bit subjective. Some days it looks like 50 but the next day it’s 40. I must have overshot a bit: I didn’t have the Taylor kit then. On the next drain and refill I’ll aim lower…
  3. Hi all - apologies for the possibly dumb question but I'm trying to get going with the dichlor/bleach method. Am I right in thinking that just before a soak free chlorine should be present, say 1-3ppm, and combined chlorine should be zero? At the moment I have varying levels of free chlorine but I always have some combined chlorine, say 0.4 - 0.8pmm. If it should be zero, should I be adding more bleach after a soak, or should I be adding MPS instead? Thanks
  4. I'm in Vancouver in BC and am looking for a replacement tub cover as the one we've inherited is trashed. I'd read that there are very few actual manufacturers, and I saw @CanadianSpaTech 's comment in another recent thread that confirms that "Here in Ontario I get a laugh at local online sellers saying "ours is the best" when in reality 95% of covers sold in Ontario all come from the same factory." A quick search gives https://www.hottubcoverscanada.ca/, https://www.northernhottubcovers.com/ and https://www.spacoverscanada.ca/, amongst others like the Cover Guy. I suppose if the covers themselves all come from the same place the only thing that differentiates the sellers is aftersales and support etc... so with that in mind does anyone have any experiences or recommendations?
  5. Thanks @CanadianSpaTech - sorry for the late reply. I had a look from the side and it looks like the pump and spa pack are sitting on top of a piece of thick rubber mat which in turn is sitting on top of a couple of random bits of plywood sheet: I suspect the plywood is acting like a sounding board and probably making things worse... I don't think the ply is attached to the frame at all, and the pump and spa pack are just held down with woodscrews. I'm guessing this is not the normal method of mounting
  6. So according to the very helpful Gecko support, the pump runs occasionally to allow the pack to get a temperature reading, which makes sense... and there's no way to stop it from doing so. So back to the original plan of isolating the pump as much as possible. The pump itself is a 3HP Century Lasar BN61... not sure how old, possibly 10 or so years. Are these considered noisy?
  7. Excellent, thanks - I'll give them a call. I suspect the vibration problem is that the pump and spa pack are not very well mounted... they both sit on what looks like a rubber mat of some sort but the pump is roughly screwed down with some mounts and the spa pack is just screwed straight down at the front, nothing at the back - hopefully the photos give an idea. I've ordered a rubber anti-vibration mount for the pump - hopefully I can replace the current blue pad things with it without having to drain the whole thing.
  8. Any gecko spa pack experts out there? We inherited a hot tub with single pump and a Gecko in.xe 5-11-h4.0 spa pack. It's on the roof deck above the bedroom and currently there's pretty loud vibration noise when the pump is running which is enough to wake us up. In the short term I'm trying to program it so as to prevent the pump starting at all during the night. At the moment I have it programmed as follows: Economy mode enabled, set to start at midnight with a duration of 12 hours (so it won't try and heat the water until the following noon) One filter cycle set to run for one hour at 9am What I was hoping would happen is that it would go to sleep at midnight, run the pump for circulation between 9am and 10am, then wake up and start heating etc at noon. This seems to be working in general, except that the pump still runs at intervals but only for a short time like maybe a minute or two. This generally seems to happen every 90 minutes or so. Does anyone know a) why the pump is starting up for these short bursts, and b) is there a way to stop it? At the moment I've just been switching it off at the breaker every night but I'm hoping there's a more elegant solution. Thanks!
  9. Just wanted to say thanks to @Spa Shop Rotorua and @RDspaguy for the help and advice - leak appears to be fixed
  10. Thanks all - @Spa Shop Rotorua's approach was my original plan but it's really tight round the back of the filter and I can't get in there from the top to clear the old silicone out, as you can hopefully see from the attached photo. I'll try and get as much out from the underside as possible. I was going to get it as clean as possible and try an o-ring on the top, between the canister and the shell... would it be worth siliconing it as well, or is that a terrible idea? Thanks for all the help, it's much appreciated
  11. That's excellent, thanks. I haven't seen any cracks but will check again. Should a filter canister like this have an o-ring or gasket then? This one certainly didn't when I got it apart, just a ton of silicone. If a gasket or o-ring is preferable what sort of thing should I be looking for? Maybe something like this - https://waterwayparts.com/-711-8010/ - or would a simple o-ring be better assuming I can find one?
  12. Hi all... we've recently moved house and inherited our first hot tub. This has a slow leak from the top of the filter which I believe is a Waterway Dyna-Flo Skim filter like this: https://www.poolandhottubdepot.com/waterway-dyna-flo-top-mount-skim-filter-canister-complete/ As far as I can see I just need to remove this, clean out the old silicone and then re-seal it with fresh. I was hoping to be able to remove the fittings at the base but it looks like these are glued in - see attached photos. Are these glued? If so is there any way to remove them without breaking anything? If not then I was thinking of cutting the hoses a couple of inches away from the fittings which would hopefully let me lift the filter unit far enough to be able to clear out the old silicone and replace it, and then splice the hoses again with couplers... does that sounds like a valid approach? If anyone has any other ideas that would be great Thanks!
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