rseeley

Following up, how would I test this? Just want to do my due diligence before dropping $400 on a pump. (I've got a spare pump one in the garage from previous experience) Just want to know what I should be checking with the J18 and J19 power connections. Details from pump below Hot tub pump 2 VOLTS 230 HZ 60 RPM 3450 Model T55SWBNC-99 HP 2.5 SF. AMPS 10.0 6500-341 1081 MOTOR MFG# B10C FRAME 48Y INS CLASS F

Pump two is a high speed with only one speed. I swapped and tried to engage the high speed pump two while connected to pump 1 and it would not start and didn't trip the breaker. I'll give that a test, not sure exactly what power reading I should get on the multi-meter. I'm also having a hard time seeing the specs of pump two but I'll dig around.

Hi All, Thanks again for all the help in the past. I come back now with a short I cannot be clear on next steps. I recently replaced the 50 amp GFCI as it no longer tripped and was likely 10-15 years old. After a few months I started getting more frequent trips while both pumps were running. I was doing more troubleshooting today, all the wires and tight and not rusted in the breaker box. When powering on, the pump 1 will run without issue, but as soon as pump 2 starts up it will throw the breaker. I think it is the original pump. With pump 2 unplugged, pump 1 goes through normal power cycle and doesn't trip. I tried swapping them and pump 2 does not start up but it also doesn't trip the breaker. No corrosion inside pump one connections, nor on circuit breaker from what I can tell. What more should I check for before blaming it on pump 2 and swapping it out?

Solid point on the green wire. That green wire is also only rated for 75°C. The other wires feeding the heater are attached and say 10 AWG 600v 105°C. My question is now, should I just attempt to match that wire feeding the heater into J7 and J8? Or would a 90°C 8 AWG work as that is all I've been able to find? I replaced and connected using the above option with new crimps but just as a test. Wanted to get more feedback before leaving it on over night.

Hi All, Back again. And I'm about to go to a professional if I cannot get a clear answer. I have a J270 Jacuzzi hot tub from 2010 without a circulation pump and have replaced the wires from J33 and J34 to the heating element a few times now. I'm starting to wonder if I have the correct control board based on the drawing. As these have burned up from the image I'm wondering if the gauge was off or if there was somewhere I could buy a kit. This is dangerous for a fire to flare up so I'm leaning towards calling an electrician to get it properly wired if I cannot find a wiring kit. Last used was a 8AWG cable pictured in green but clearly that wasn't good enough. Any ideas?

Further testing, I swapped the hi limit sensor with the temp sensor and got the error for sensor 1. Replaced the temp sensor and all is well in the hot tub. Second time I've had to replace this piece, so hopefully with my new multimeter I can diagnose earlier. Thanks!

I had some success after I believe the temp sensor came loose. Jets turned back on and were showing zero on the screen followed by Sn2 after a bit. Reseated the temp sensor and saw 74 and then another power cycle and getting - - - again. Previously disconnected the heater on J33/34 and same - - - message. 2k ohms reads 1.000 when not touching and .002/3 when touching the two black and white curled finger connectors. If I remove that connector completely it cycles through for a minute and then the FL1 then back to - - - Do I have the correct multimeter to test these sensors? And am I testing the correct sensors? See J2 No yelling here, greatttllly appreciate the help!

Back again with an issue I hope you all will be able to point me in the right direction. I had been away for a week or two and hadn't check my Jacuzzi J270 (without circulator pump) year 2010 in some time. Came down and see the - - - message right when I cycle the breaker. I've left it off for an hour or two and some issue. I originally thought there might have been an issue with one of the wires from the heater to the circuit board (J33) which I replaced with an 8 gauge wire, but still same issue. The wire appeared to have been overloaded and slightly heated/charred. I'm not entirely sure what gauge wire they should be or if a wire kit exists to replace. The main motor had been replaced recently, but in general not sure where to go next? Multimeter time? could it be something else?

So I replaced the circuit board and the thermometer yesterday. It now correctly kicks on the heater and pump 1 when heating, and shows the correct temp. I assume the mini fire we had from the married heater wires fried the board. There were little warped edges around the board where the heater connected. I've learned so much about that 10 year old hot tub at this point, thank you guys for all of your help!!!!!!!!!!!

Ok and not sure if this is helpful but the overheat and —- only appear after ot goes above what it thinks is 65°

I also attempted to test the high limit and temp sensor but couldn't get a resistance reading on them. Even after taking the wires out of the casing it still continues to read 1. Do I have the correct tool for this job? Multimeter option was 2K Ohms per the picture. Considering the temp is consistently 20 degrees lower than thermal temp, I assume that at minimum needs to be replace. And then the fact that the heater keeps going without the pump one being on would indicate an issue with the circuit board or the child I inserted?

Didn’t see any black heat damage on the back of the board. I think that smoke on the case is from a previous issue. But correct this board was cobbled together. Should that be my next move? Try swapping out the boards? If the high limit and temp sensor both read normal?

Very helpful. I’ll keep you posted.

Which sensors should I be testing? Where are they located? Where is the heater relay located? Appreciate all the help thus far!!

I did previously have the wrong logic chip. I ordered a new one and it worked up until this point. See previous thread link a few posts back. Since that’s the lowest cost should I try replacing that first?