RDspaguy

https://www.iaqualink.com/en/support/iq20 This gives installation instructions. Please note that there is a limited number of connections on an aqualink board. Depending how many devices are wired to comm and how many comm connections you have on your board, you may need a new board. That is your price discrepancy. One estimate includes a new board. Determine if you have an open comm connection (there can be 2 wires in each terminal of the comm plug) and order what you need. Google has lots of shopping options either way. Good luck.

Yeah, a 2" union is close to 3" across the threads. If the amp draw and flow rates are close to the iron might you should be fine using the LX.

Welcome Matt. I wish I could help, but I don't know anything about those. I gather that error 2 is a flow error? Did you replace the filter? Do you have a manual? You said you took it apart, can you post some pics? Have you contacted the manufacturer?

Good to have a chemical guru around. Most of us that respond here are repairmen, and much happier talking pumps and heaters. I know what works well with the water in my area, but not all water is the same. Welcome back dlleno. Glad you are here.

Hi Beth. Welcome. I wish I could help you, but I have never seen one of those. I would recommend you contact the manufacturer.

Well if you're so great, prove it. Come here to help people, not just advertise your business. Where are you from, by the way? I thought I heard an accent.

It's not two speed, those numbers are too close. It's dependent on 50 or 60 hz. 1450÷50=29, 1740÷60=29. Are you sure those are 2" union threads, or does it just measure 2" across? Looks 1.5" to me, and I suspect it was originally an iron might.

That is strange. I used to sub-contract for a masters spa dealer and I have never heard that. Did you try it?

You have posted a new topic to an 11 year dead thread with multiple responses. No one will notice it is new. If you want help, start your own thread and people will respond.

Welcome back Chase. She still running? Dlleno offered some good advice. Start there and hit us back with your questions.

Is your tub a plug-in or is it hardwired to a breaker? What amp breaker?

Nope, if it blistered the insulation it got hot, either from a loose terminal or faulty component. By panel, did you mean breaker panel? If so, I would get a new breaker.

Spanewb, sorry I missed your response. I am not sure why I didn't get a notification on it. My apologies. Dlleno seems to be a big fan of bromine, so I will leave you in his hands. Good luck!

Dlleno, this post has been double hijacked. The person we are talking to now is not the OP, or even the SP (second poster). Otherwise, I am right there with you.

Yes, but it's not likely. Unplug the ozonator. If that doesn't do it then it is probably a bad breaker. I assume there are no leaks in the equipment bay?

Could it be filling up the inflatable shell? I know next to nothing about these, and don't have time to read 42 posts at the moment, so maybe this has been covered.

I guess that depends on how you define "better". And Balboa DONATES theirs free of charge... Just saying...

Welcome back, AlicattP. We thought we lost you.

That answers my questions. So it resets to zero from the controller? Is it set up on a timer circuit from the controller? If the controller has it "off" it is setting it to zero, and will set it to programmed setting only when the timer is on. I am not so familiar with aqualink that I can tell you how to check from memory, you will need the manual. A google search should provide that if you don't have one.

Just one more reason to love them, like I needed another one. Great info canadaguy. Gold star for you, too.

Bleach, or liquid chlorine, is sodium hypochlorite. It has no dichlor or CYA. If your wife is sensitive to bromine she is also sensitive to chlorine. And by that I mean she is not sensitive to either. If she were, she would have known long before she was your wife. Municipal drinking water regulations require a detectable level of chlorine, up to 4ppm allowed. Trust me, if she was sensitive, she would know. Dichlor is ph neutral in solution, so by using it you are not getting constant ph drag from a floater full of acidic sanitizer (Bromine ph4). Liquid chlorine is high ph, so will also have to be balanced much more frequently than dichlor to avoid irritation. I personally use dichlor, specifically 1 tsp plus 1/2 tsp per person after each use of the spa. I drain and refill at around CYA 50, which is about 2-3 times per year for me. I do not maintain a chlorine residual. I have an ozonator, so rarely shock. In an outdoor pool (or uncovered spa) you need a residual (constant level of sanitizer) to deal with contaminants (windblow microbes, dirt, leaves, acorns, bird poop, grass clippings, etc...) In a spa that is covered 23 hours of each day, it is not so important. The only contaminants that enter the water are the ones you bring with you. Shower before use, and you cut those down by 90%. Hit it with a bit of chlorine after use to destroy what you brough it, ozone gets rid of the chloramines and residual chlorine. And tomorrow when you open the cover you have virtually chemical free clean water. If unused, a weekly treatment of dichlor is needed. Mineral purifiers, such as spa frog or nature 2, are a good addition to the program. These use silver and copper to kill some microbes and interfere with the cell division of the rest. This technology dates back to pre-colonial times, when they would put a bit of copper and a silver coin in fresh water barrels aboard ship to keep the water from getting nasty. They couldn't have discovered America without it.

I am not sure how much that is. I also am not sure which master spa you have, some use different (or more) filters than others. Are you shopping online or from your local pool store?

I've said it many times. A good dealer is more important than a good deal. Go with a squirrelly dealer and it doesn't matter what spa you have, you will not be happy. Pick one with a long standing reputation for reliability. The place that opened last year might not be there next year.

I would assume they are for some jet or fountain attachment, but I do not recognize the brand. I am guessing this is a new-to-you pool? Are there any pieces in the skimmer, pump strainer, shed, chemical cabinet, or garage that you can't identify?

If it works fine with no filters, you need new filters. 7 years is some kind of record for filter life. Typically you get 2-3 years. I have some customers that replace them yearly as preventative maintenance.